Constant dry hits with wet wicks

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vapdivrr

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Tried it with a different cotton but with same results. Also tried lesser wraps thinking that juice might be trapped in the coils but same as well. Thanks for the suggestion though.
Well you certainly have tried everything, that's for sure

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VaPreis

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You are simply Not getting the Purpose of this tank nor the understanding that Different Wattage/Air Flow will change when you need to Drip.

Every Video on that RDA that I watched, Every Reviewer Re-Dripped after 4-5 pulls.
When you Notice a Flavor change - STOP, Drip, Roll - Vape. It really is that simple.

All that Scottish Roll Hoopla is nice, but factually, You Evaporate (X) amount of E-liquid which is subtracted from initial(Y) amount Dripped. That Will Never Change with Fixed Vaping practices.(Draw/Resistance/Power/Etc)
(Y)/(X)= (Z) Draw availability - less remaining trapped in wicks.

Are you Chain hitting this?
Are you expecting the last Draw on a Chain to be like the first? <Not happening>

As to not the expected Vapor:
Fill the wicks
Open the Air Flow
Push the wattage up
Inhale Strongly
:D

So let me get this straight.....

If I'm using a dripper, occasionally, I should.....drip?

I can't wait to try this.
 
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WharfRat1976

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So I recently gotten the alliance v2 together with the snowwolf mini.

I have tried everything I can but nothing seems to work. Lesser wick, more wick, bigger coils, spaced coils, Scottish roll etc. I can't seem to find a solution to this. I have also checked for hot spots. Right now it has a spaced coil build in it as it seems to work better compared to the other builds I have.

Dry hits usually come after 8-9 puffs and the wicks are mostly still wet, and it will only get wetter if I continue to drip it.

I really don't know what I am doing wrong here. My old rda clone+dna30 works fine regardless of the build.

Any help on this is much appreciated as this is really bothering me. Thanks.

Oh and I am using 26 gauge kanthal with organic cotton.
Is it plugged in[emoji453] [emoji453] [emoji453] [emoji453] [emoji453]
 

beckdg

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Here you go. It was neater before as I tried meddling with it to see if it would make a difference. Might take a look at the magma reborn as well. Thanks.
Very simple issue.

Your coil is uneven.

The diameter is tighter in the center.

Your outer wraps aren't touching the wick.

Your inner wraps are always going to give hot, dry hits.

Remove your wick.

Put your mandrel in there.

Twist upward and downward while tugging outward until the entire coil is tight on the mandrel.

Carefully remove the mandrel while twisting and gently pulling it out of the coil so as to not distort your now even coil.

Rewick.

Vape the .... out of it.

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beckdg

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Oh well... Thanks for the help anyway. I guess i'll look into buying another rda and see if it was my fault or it was the rda. Any good single coil rdas? Currently looking the at indestructible rda, although no adjustable airflow options.
It WAS your mistake. Period.

See my last post.

Once you get that tuned in, you can start experimenting with amount of wick.

Though, your wick looks good in the center believe it or not.

It's just those loose turns on the ends of your coil making it look loose.

Tapatyped
 

beckdg

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I don't have any 28 ga with me now but i'll get it with my next purchase and see how it goes. Thanks.
Phooey

Get what your working with right before moving on.

24 and 26 gauge is probably the easiest to work with.

Thick enough to remove all springyness and get a good bite on your screws without snapping it.

Thin enough it still wraps tight without too much force it feels like your going to cut your finger off with chicken wire.

Then buy wire depending if you want more vapor or less.

Or a different compound if you want temp control or faster/hotter ramp up times.

Tapatyped
 
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beckdg

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I'll get 28g and hopefully it will fix this problem.

Kinda update as well. I tried ignoring the problem and went on vaping, redripping if needed. Right now the wicks are soak wet but I am still getting burnt taste. Hopefully a higher gauge wire will fix this problem. Thanks again.
See my first reply... you want the entire coil in contact with the wick. It's the ONLY way.

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beckdg

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I've only had this problem with really sweet liquid and a wick that just couldn't keep up.
It's easy to look and say your wicks are wet while the atty is at rest, but what matters is the efficiency of the wick while it is being fired.
How long are the drags you're taking? 3, 5, 10 seconds?
And a wick that's choked at one end or the middle by the coil having a different inner diameter will make these results every time.

It's harsh.

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beckdg

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Wire diameter has very little to do with vapor production.
Do explain.

Keep in mind we're working with the basics here (in this thread)...

And everybody is missing the mark already as illustrated by repeated failure as each solution is tried.

Though I'm intrigued about this physics lesson and ecstatic to hear more.

Tapatyped
 

chinacatsunflower-

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Only my two cents, but I do believe his build is perfectly fine if he believes so. It's quite hard not to be able to tell if a coil is heating from the inside out and evenly. His wick also looks fine to me besides being burnt in the center (my theory is due to not dripping often enough), but then again I do not own an RDA but the principle is the same on a RTA. Except the "dripping" is done for me ;)

I think it's likely a mix of a few different variables. My advice would be to drop that coil, rebuild one, test it to perfection. Re-wick the way you have found best, and test it all again. However this time, drip more often. You're saying it is occurring after about 6 or so pulls, I'd try 4 pulls the way you normally do. Drip some juice on it and if it absorbs the juice easily, then that is the problem. If it still occurs after dripping more often, or you notice the cotton isn't taking the juice after that many pulls, it's a wicking problem.
 

f1vefour

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Do explain.

Keep in mind we're working with the basics here (in this thread)...

And everybody is missing the mark already as illustrated by repeated failure as each solution is tried.

Though I'm intrigued about this physics lesson and ecstatic to hear more.

Tapatyped

Physics lesson, no.

I get no more vapor from a 28g build vs a 32g build. It's temperature and build quality not wire mass.

I know what your referring to, more surface area more vapor...on paper this is fine, in practice it certainly isn't measurable.

We heat a wick, liquid in wick vaporizes.

I've seen dual 5 wraps of 24g perform just as well as the giant surface area of a dual 6 wrap clapton. The dual claptons certainly have more surface, the dual 5 wrap 24g has very little surface.
 

beckdg

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Physics lesson, no.

I get no more vapor from a 28g build vs a 32g build. It's temperature and build quality not wire mass.

I know what your referring to, more surface area more vapor...on paper this is fine, in practice it certainly isn't measurable.

We heat a wick, liquid in wick vaporizes.

I've seen dual 5 wraps of 24g perform just as well as the giant surface area of a dual 6 wrap clapton. The dual claptons certainly have more surface, the dual 5 wrap 24g has very little surface.
Hmmm...

But you're missing some key elements.

Thicker wire can carry and transfer more heat and thus be spread out over more area to effectively heat more wick surface.

And utilize more air flow to atomize a larger surface of surface spit.

While creating less hot spots than thinner wire.

And with regulated mods would fit better into their high watt range to utilize all the heat they can output due to lower resistance needed to obtain their higher wattage ranges.

I guarantee you, with any mod capable of over 20 watts and a decent rda with the right air flow, 28 gauge will win out over 32 gauge every day of the week.

And will be a smoother vape than say a quad strand of 32 gauge wrapped as a parallel (not twisted, laid flat) contact coil because it will atomize the juice just as well, breath better and burn less.

There are reasons I own this...

dfc05f09f2bdc706ebddced9439b6936.jpg


Despite having a drawer full of everything from 32 to 20 gauge.

And I've tested my theories as well...

0.2 ohms...

7c2a4a4024cb1babcff649350397b7e8.jpg


0.2 ohms...

c26e661716e323965b320d9e5045a4a7.jpg


And let's not get into what a waste Clapton coils are. :blink:

Tapatyped
 

Xboxsux22

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Thanks everyone for their suggestions. The picture posted is not my current build. Right now it is a 4 wrap spaced coils and initially I thought it could be the outer wraps as well, but I made sure that the cotton is touching those outer wraps now. The cotton is not too thin, yet not too tight that it chokes the wicks.

I made sure the wicks are well saturated before vaping. But if I ignore and continue to drip, the wick is only getting wetter and I will be getting lesser puffs out of it. Which is why I have done over 10 builds right now but with similar results. Thanks.
 

beckdg

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Let's agree to this and leave the rest alone.

So you concede that my response was unexpected?

Showing actually less mass covering less surface of the wick as the superior vape in both vapor output and smoothness...

Yet comprised of the thicker wire as I stated...

In total contradiction to your assumption that I was going to parrot the common misconception of "surface area" being totally attributed to the coil itself.

Well yeah we'll agree on what we agree on. Having a coil with less than half the mass effectively useless for current makes for a horrible waste of energy

Tapatyped
 

beckdg

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Thanks everyone for their suggestions. The picture posted is not my current build. Right now it is a 4 wrap spaced coils and initially I thought it could be the outer wraps as well, but I made sure that the cotton is touching those outer wraps now. The cotton is not too thin, yet not too tight that it chokes the wicks.

I made sure the wicks are well saturated before vaping. But if I ignore and continue to drip, the wick is only getting wetter and I will be getting lesser puffs out of it. Which is why I have done over 10 builds right now but with similar results. Thanks.
Let's see

Tapatyped
 
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