...If not could you tell me about the Kabuki tank? Do ya love it?
Stretchy, I bought a Kabuki about the time they came out. It is a BEAUTIFUL piece of equipment, VERY heavy, clearly machined the way he does all of his equipment. Here was my take on it. The flavor WAS very good, but no matter how much I adjusted the airflow (very easy, one allen screw), or how high I cranked up the wattage it felt as if it just wasn't vaporizing up all the juice. It had a very "wet" vape, and I could verify that as I could pop out the tip and see quite a bit of unvaped juice. It was almost too wet for my tastes. Beyond that, I broke the glass tank numerous times. Never dropped it, just simply screwing the top and bottom together after replacing the head, it would crack the glass. After buying a few replacements, tried to BARELY tighten it down when assembling, literally just enough to keep it sealed, but it just seemed the parts were soo heavy (literally) they were far stronger than the thin glass tank. I stopped using it and it's on the shelf. Just my .02 on it. Hated to stop using it, as it was a beautifully crafted work of art, just not for me.
Is there like a chart or graph or power point that gives what resistance you can use for different watts? Like I don't know..2.6 ohms for 10 watts..That kind of thing?
OK, I will find and post a simple "safe vaping" chart below, but I think you are missing some points which should DE-mystify this whole thing, and take all of the worry or uncertainty away.
First off, don't be scared off just because something is sub-ohm. Have you ever had, or seen a light/lamp that has different brightness settings (i.e. one click is 50w, two clicks is 100w, three clicks is 150w) ?? I've still got a few in the house, and it has three brightness settings and special bulbs. OK, just because the lamp CAN go all the way up to 150w doesn't mean I don't use it as the lowest setting. Same thing applies with all these RBA's, RDTA's, etc.
I know you've got some nice variable voltage mods, and that's great, you can CONTROL how many watts you want. If you DID switch to a rebuidable, or even a lower ohm setup, you could easily crank your volts (watts) DOWN as you see fit.
THIS will take even MORE pressure off of you. YOU are the boss ok ?? If you switch your setup, put it on a Provari, or a box mod like me, you start it out low say 5w. Probably won't put out much vapor, so you crank it up to 10w, and try again. Still not much vapor, move it up again. You'll find the sweet spot where your happy with flavor, vapor, or whatever you're looking for, and you just leave it there.
I run dual coils in my Steam Crave that together come out to .35 ohms (yes that's SUB-ohm), and I did exactly what I mentioned above ^^^, started low, and kept moving volts/watts up untill it was a little more than what I was getting out of my old carto setup. Easy Peasy. I'm probably only running it at 35w, and my mod will go up to 200w. I don't need that much, don't want it, don't use it. I think maybe you assumed just because you go to a sub-ohm, you HAVE to crank the volts/watts all the way up and cloud out the room. We'll just leave that for the cloud chasers.
Does my rebuildable taste better than my cartos ?? YES !!!! Does it make a lot more vapor ?? Yes, but mostly because I've moved away from PG, and much more VG in my mixes which makes more vapor, but YOU can decide what's best.
The ONE thing that I WILL stress (learned this the hard way, wasted a lot of juice) was I was flush with 18mg Copper Creek (and others) juice for my cartos and when putting it in my tank seemed quite a bit harsh, because I was getting more vapor, I had to back the nic waay down to like 3mg or 6mg. And a higher VG mix was smoother as well.