Cybrillion official
- Thread starter breminator
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
Hmmm...I'm still having a hot button problem, which I thought was solved after re-assembling the switch. I notice the spring is plated silver, but the top part which contacts the battery is rough and white, not polished and silver. Would this affect conductivity and cause the hot button? The mod is simply (and brilliantly) designed, and I'm puzzled as to why I can't get it working right. I even spent $50 on new batteries yesterday evening to eliminate that possibility.
I'm loving the feel of of the Cybrillion and want to get it working properly, even though I'm not inconvenienced since my GGTS, JustGG and GG4S are all in top working order.
I'm loving the feel of of the Cybrillion and want to get it working properly, even though I'm not inconvenienced since my GGTS, JustGG and GG4S are all in top working order.
to be frank i experienced too a hot button problem, soon after first uses, it disappears with re-centering the brass button , who moved a bit (sufficient enough to touch the very edge of steel walls) after several lock/unlock,& after a good cleaning. the knurled ring have to be firmly screwed from wath i understand. wish you all the best with this beautifully efficient device (steel tank is my way for Cybrilion, too)
i consider these problems, when solved by simple constatation, as a normal procedure when expecting to use mechanical mods, no real problems. they require a bit of attention and to be knowned by their users, to deliver the best and be life-long usable.
thats a really strange issue mc!
Maybe:
You didnt screw tough the brass ring that keeps button in place as Corona said
Maybe you didnt screw well the negative plastic (the one with the tail), so spring doesnt make good contact with the brass body
ps..... are you sure that your atomizer isnt shorting?
Maybe:
You didnt screw tough the brass ring that keeps button in place as Corona said
Maybe you didnt screw well the negative plastic (the one with the tail), so spring doesnt make good contact with the brass body
ps..... are you sure that your atomizer isnt shorting?
Thanks, Corona. I'm not discouraged, just a bit stumped. I'm probably missing something simple and will be embarrassed when I see it. Regardless, I'll report back when I get it solved.
Imeo, no short on Tilemahos. I'm using it on other devices without problem, and I've checked it on a regulated device. I'll give it another, more careful, reassembly and we'll see how it goes. I want to emphasise that I'm not complaining. It's a work of art, just like all of your stuff.
We'll figure it out in good time.
Imeo, no short on Tilemahos. I'm using it on other devices without problem, and I've checked it on a regulated device. I'll give it another, more careful, reassembly and we'll see how it goes. I want to emphasise that I'm not complaining. It's a work of art, just like all of your stuff.
We'll figure it out in good time.
Guys, I also had the hot button issue, but I think I solved it. The bow was a little twisted, so it did not touch the inner tube by its full width to make good contact. After bending it a little everything seems fine again. To check if you have the same problem:
- remove the inner tube and look inside the outer tube
- push the button a little so you can see it inside
- make sure the inner top edge of the button is parallel to the tube's wall
Sorry for my bad English, this is really hard to explain for me...
Maybe a picture helps:
- remove the inner tube and look inside the outer tube
- push the button a little so you can see it inside
- make sure the inner top edge of the button is parallel to the tube's wall
Sorry for my bad English, this is really hard to explain for me...
Maybe a picture helps:
Your English is fine, and the solution was great. A little twist to the switch stem and carefully aligning it as Corona suggested seem to have done the trick. Thanks to all for the help.
I am glad you solved it with the help of the other men mc! Maybe the man that shines the button twisted a little? Who knows
My Cybrillion worked fine on arrival... My guess: it happened when I disassembled the mod. The brass ring was very tight, so it needed some force to unscrew (pliers actually). Now, holding the tube with one hand around the stem while unscrewing will put some tension to the stem. A tiny twist seems to be enough to cause bad contact.
my policy is if all works when it arrives don't take anything apart until you have to, maybe its a man thing that we have to know what makes it tick 
I don't use mechs. Because I don't understand them. According to Ohm's law, if I have a coil of 0.3 ohms, and a fresh 18650 (4V), I will have 53 watts of power. If I have a 1 ohm coil, at 4 V, I will have 16 watts of power. 50 watts it's waaaaay too much for me. 16 watts is too little. I usually use 0.5 ohm titanium coils or 1 ohm SS springs at 20 watts. So, I use VW devices.
Why do you like mechs?! I can understand using them for subohming, but for around 1 ohm coils, I think they are underpowered.
Because a vw device gives me a specific power, the one that I choose, and this power is relatively constant during the discharging of the battery. On a mech, if I use a 0.5 ohm Ti coil, and I put a fresh battery, I have 30 watts. I don't like to vape at 30 watts. It's too hot for me. I want 18-20 watts. So, how I do it with a mech?
And thats the only advantage of electronics Cali. All the rest are disadvantages. Take a look on this list
View image: mechanicals vs electronics
View image: mechanicals vs electronics
Well, let's agree that we disagree! All I want now is a GG box mode with VIR, using a single 18650 battery.
thats the next plan Cali!
I dont like boxes but if I make the one that I have in mind, it will be perfect for box users
I dont like boxes but if I make the one that I have in mind, it will be perfect for box users
- Status
