Desperate for help with new Protank!

[kalvc]

Sup guys, I'm new to all this and I just got a Vision Spinner 1300 mAH battery and a Kanger ProTank (original, not II). Everything was working fine for the first day when I filled it up with some liquids. I didn't bother cleaning it or nothing.

I decided to switch juices so what I did was take apart the protank into two pieces, the tank and the bottom part and soaked it in hot water overnight and then let it air dry for the rest of the next day. I put it back together and filled it up with some 100% VG juice and it didn't vape right. I was getting no flavor hits and at the end, I would taste the eliquids as if they were directly on my tongue.

I switched back to my original flavor of 80%PG/20%VG and it didn't taste right. Still the same nasty no flavor and then an eliquid taste on my tongue. I tried looking up solutions, but can't seem to fix it. I've tried cleaning it again, removing an extra wick like people did, dry burning it, etc. The protank is still fairly new and the wicks are almost completely white still. I even tried switching to the second coil unit that the protank comes with, and that didn't help at all. I can't imagine there being many other parts to it, but I just can't seem to figure it out! Is my protank done?

Thanks for the feedback!!

 

[retired1]

What is the resistance of the heads you're using and what voltage is the Spinner set to?

 

[OlDogNewTricks]

When you clean the Protank head, you need to dry burn them too, throughly. Youtube has great vids on this. Also, I find the heads only degrade in performance, either learn how to rebuild them or, in my opinion, replace them when they go south. At less then $2 ea, it isn't a huge investment in good performance.

 

[daz2013]

Are you getting much vapour is the battery fully charged is there any gurgling noise.
I find when the power is down on the battery they aren't as good and can flood

 

[Coastal Cowboy]

It sounds like you're running the 2.5 ohm coils shipped with the PT. Those are fine, but they require more power to get to the sweet spot.

Setting the Spinner to 4.0, then increasing to around 4.7 or 4.8 should get you there.

Don't remove flavor wicks. They're there for a reason!

 

[jcco]

When my PT1 goes off in to crazy land I replace the head. It's good to stock up on replacements.
My PT sometimes does weird things & I can't figure out whats wrong. Replacing the head seems to be the only way to fix it at times.
I get my replacements at Discount Vaper. They seem to have the best prices around. I prefer the 1.8 ohm.

I wish I could figure what in the world is going on but sometimes I just throw in the towel. It's too much brain damage to fiddle around & get nowhere with it. Frustrating.

Good luck with yours. Hope it works out.

 

[retic1959]

After you dry burn and I assume that you are doing it correctly meaning match your voltage to your resistance too high and you fry the coil and it's gone for good . Try replacing your flavor wicks with 2.5mm silica , I vape 100%vg and it works for me no issues at all.

 

[Bill's Magic Vapor]

Since you are new and probably don't do everything just right, replace the heads the first few times. You may need to change juices too. The Protank is about as good as it gets in clearomizers, so match your voltage to the resistance and the juice, with a new coil, and you should be just fine. Also, keep in mind that your taste buds are changing every day and eventually you'll be able to taste and smell like a normal person. Keep playing with it till you find a combination you like. Hardest part of vaping is finding the "perfect vape." Be patient, vary your attempts and forge ahead. Good luck!

 

[foggerv2]

For VG juices best to take out the top 2 flava wicks.

 

[retic1959]

For VG juices best to take out the top 2 flava wicks.

Usually not a good idea it can cause flooding .

 

[Krazirob]

definitely take out at least one of the flavor wicks....if you have thick juice this will work great. It will not flood the wick trust me. I only use one flavor wick on 50/50 VG/PG. Hell taking out both could work too since its 100 VG. Also when cleaning it take the top post off and rinse the wick and coil then dry burn then rinse again and then let dry over night.

 

[Talyon]

Also make sure the coil is screwed in firm, I take my coils apart ie: the stem separates from rest of coil unit using pliers on the stem section and wiggle to remove, then I soak in vodka for several hours, then a warm wate rinse the let thoroughly dry. Good to go.

 

[Bill's Magic Vapor]

Please keep in mind that the flavor wicks are not there to make sure your coils won't wick properly. They actually serve several purposes including proper wicking and atomization of the juice, but they also prevent flooding and leaking, hot scalding juice flying into your mouth, even wicking around the coil and wick, etc. Just because you can remove them, doesn't mean you should. I get a big kick out of noobs thinking they are "rebuilding" their wicks, or modding them by removing a flavor wick that is crucial for proper function of their coils. Thick juices can sometimes benefit from more room in the wicking/atomization area, but it's really so much easier to add just a bit of PG to the mix and not increase the odds of constant flooding and leaking, which are already problems with clearos. There are people, though, that are allergic to PG and have go 100% VG and they will have wicking problems forever, that a simple flavor wick removal will not solve.

I remember when I first started watching Phil Busardo videos, how he always used his aged Boba's Bounty, a good quality eliquid, but really thick and sometimes thicker than molasses. The problem is the juice, not the flavor wick, and removal of the flavor wick will naturally reduce the flavor. Notice the Phil uses cartos, not clearos, because the flavor is better. Of course, the problem is the juice is too thick to atomize correctly. Thin it out and enjoy trouble free vaping if you can. Occam's Razor. Simplicity trumps complexity every time.

 

[Thunderball]

Please keep in mind that the flavor wicks are not there to make sure your coils won't wick properly. They actually serve several purposes including proper wicking and atomization of the juice, but they also prevent flooding and leaking, hot scalding juice flying into your mouth, even wicking around the coil and wick, etc. Just because you can remove them, doesn't mean you should. I get a big kick out of noobs thinking they are "rebuilding" their wicks, or modding them by removing a flavor wick that is crucial for proper function of their coils. Thick juices can sometimes benefit from more room in the wicking/atomization area, but it's really so much easier to add just a bit of PG to the mix and not increase the odds of constant flooding and leaking, which are already problems with clearos. There are people, though, that are allergic to PG and have go 100% VG and they will have wicking problems forever, that a simple flavor wick removal will not solve.

I remember when I first started watching Phil Busardo videos, how he always used his aged Boba's Bounty, a good quality eliquid, but really thick and sometimes thicker than molasses. The problem is the juice, not the flavor wick, and removal of the flavor wick will naturally reduce the flavor. Notice the Phil uses cartos, not clearos, because the flavor is better. Of course, the problem is the juice is too thick to atomize correctly. Thin it out and enjoy trouble free vaping if you can. Occam's Razor. Simplicity trumps complexity every time.

Well said

 

[Spazmelda]

One thing I've noticed with the protanks is that sometimes juice can leak under the head. I had one head in particular that did this occasionally. That would cause weird vapes and it took me forever to figure out what was causing it. To fix that, unscrew the head from the base and clean out the base with a paper towel or q-tip. Clean off the bottom of the head as well, then reassemble the whole thing.

All you guys throwing away your protank heads after one use, please either learn to dry burn or send all your used ones to me so I can rebuild them and never have to buy again. LOL!

 

[TastyKakes]

Don't mean to hijack the thread, but I just picked up a protank 2 yesterday. Worked great right out of the box until about 20 minutes ago when it started crapping out - very weak vapor production.
I tried the "trick" and removed both flavor wicks: hits like a champ now and tastes great. How big of an issue is flooding and leakage with the protank, because I'm really digging it without the extra wicks?

 

[Spazmelda]

Don't mean to hijack the thread, but I just picked up a protank 2 yesterday. Worked great right out of the box until about 20 minutes ago when it started crapping out - very weak vapor production.
I tried the "trick" and removed both flavor wicks: hits like a champ now and tastes great. How big of an issue is flooding and leakage with the protank, because I'm really digging it without the extra wicks?

I'm of the opinion that if its working for you, then it's fine. You may find that you get gurgling and leaking when you get low on juice. If that happens then you know.

I take off the silicone grommet "hat" on mine, but I use two flavor wicks. I got a bunch of 1mm silica and I replace the flavor wicks when I dry burn.

 

[Bill's Magic Vapor]

Don't mean to hijack the thread, but I just picked up a protank 2 yesterday. Worked great right out of the box until about 20 minutes ago when it started crapping out - very weak vapor production.
I tried the "trick" and removed both flavor wicks: hits like a champ now and tastes great. How big of an issue is flooding and leakage with the protank, because I'm really digging it without the extra wicks?

Depends on a lot of factors - pressure, temperature, wick material, juice and ratio, fullness of tank, coil temperature, etc. Will it increase flooding and wicking? Of course it will. The secret to near trouble free clearo usage is to replace the wicks every two or three days, not try and clean and dry burn to make them last two to four weeks. Learn to rebuild the coil with cotton. Not only will the flavor be improved substantially (and don't dry burn), but the cost drops to under a dime to replace, and you will have less flooding and leaking. Once I started rebuilding my coils, and not expecting them to last all that long (because my juice is dark and sweet and full of flavor, both carbonizing and carmelizing the wicks quickly), I started having no problems with leaking, flooding, flavor wicks, or anything else. Anybody can make a coil that is substantially better than a cheap factory coil every time, and this will save you grief and money. Just do it. Do it!! For your sake, do it! Did I mention cotton is nice?

 

[crxess]

This should be a Sticky:

 

[TastyKakes]

Anybody can make a coil that is substantially better than a cheap factory coil every time, and this will save you grief and money. Just do it. Do it!! For your sake, do it! Did I mention cotton is nice?

Oh, I'm gonna
Still brand new to this, but I've been watching a lot of videos about building replacement coils. Just gotta get my hands on the materials and get after it. Just trying to learn all the differences between kanthal (sp?) and steel mesh; silica vs cotton vs cheesecloth. I love this forum, but it is information overload.