dicodes 2380, dicodes dani extreme and pipeline 2
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Mm-k. Tried a Ti build on the In'ax tonight. First of all, getting the hotspots out wasn't fun at all, but I managed. Now, I've calibrated the temp on this thing so many times and I can't get it to read 20C for anything. I even turned auto cal back on. It's actually reading negative temps when I take a draw. Not sure at all what's going on. Any ideas???
You they aren't as bad as I thought. juice prices are same as everywhere for example. Their VS dna40/rdna40s are cheaper than anywhere else in uk..the 2380 is a bit more than Greek mods but to be honest I would have save a lot of time and postage if I had just gone for the ukecig 2380t in the first place. They also get newest stuff pretty quick. They are growing on me actually!!To be fair that's not necessarily entirely the exchange rate - that's UK ecig store charging more than everywhere else(Though prices in the UK, as a whole, are generally higher than most other places, it's true)
So I unintentionally tested the durability of the 2380, AGAIN. I left it on top of the roof of my work truck and drove off. I heard bunk, thunk and clank. It took a hit many times as it fell. It took a nice chunk out of the concrete and shows very little damage on the mod. So little damage that I have to look at it closely to see. She still looks like a beauty. Took a vape and I moved on. This is the provari of tc mods. I was really amazed by how much the concrete was damaged by this.
This is what will happen. Note that I only use Manual Calibration.
- After first calibrating, checking the Res/Temp screen should always show higher than 20°C, and usually a higher resistance than the base resistance of the coil
- How much higher temp and how much higher resistance depends on the base resistance and the material of the coil
- The reason for this is that when calibration is done, a very brief voltage is applied to the coil. This pushes up the temperature and therefore the resistance
- Within a minute or two, you would expect to see it drop back to its base resistance and 20°C
- If it never reaches 20°C - if it sticks on, say, 25°C - that means the resistance is now higher than when the calibration was done.
- If it goes below 20°C at any time, this means the resistance is now lower when the calibration was done
- This could be made worse/more likely by automatic calibration - we don't know exactly when it does that, and it could possibly do it before you've finished fully tightening
First of all, I would definitely turn off Auto Cal. I can see it having a risk of probing the coil before it's fully tightened. I know you had issues before doing that, but I don't think that change will help. And I haven't analysed when Auto Cal operates exactly, so I can't say if it is or could ever be a problem.
Beyond that all you can do is make sure the atomizer is fully tightened before doing calibration, and that the build is fully tightened as much as possible - and definitely no shorts. And that once the atomizer is tightened, you don't adjust it in any way - loosening it or tightening it.
Oh, and also check that your Coeff (TCR) is set right. It probably shouldn't affect the temperature display - ie it couldn't make it go below 20°C - but if wrong it could effect the magnitude of the problem.
I've only had one build that consistently did what you described, and it stopped doing it after I re-tightened the build. I figured that that "probing voltage" was basically 'exciting' the coil - applying voltage to it, heating it up, and therefore causing it to expand/contract - which was highlighting/exacerbating a poor connection issue in the build.
Make sure the build is solid as solid can be and I would hope it won't happen again. It hasn't for me - and the atomizer/build on which I did see it was a new clone I was using, with an unusual fastening mechanism, so I'm pretty sure my build was unstably attached when I saw that issue.
Do let us know if it does keep happening.
Definitely still happening, as far as I can tell the build is as solid as one can get on an In'ax It's vaping fine, the temp is just all crazy.
I wonder then if the In'ax is fundamentally a little unstable in resistance? Is there anything you can adjust on it - tighten the 510? Clean the screws/connections? Clean the 510? I have no experience of the In'ax specifically or any Genesis in general, so I don't know exactly how it works.
It can seem a little frustrating that the Dicodes chip probes resistance and then doesn't let you adjust the set temperature. But it is in a sense simply mirroring the actions of any TC vape - if it says the temp is going below 20, it means the resistance is dropping below the initial resistance, and if it does that with a small voltage probe it should do it even more under a full TC vape.
Turning off Auto Cal means you can control when that initial resistance measurement is taken. So if you take a measurement when you know the atty is on tight, and then the temp still drops, the resistance has definitely dropped below what it was moments before. And most likely, it's dropped as a result of that small heat/cool cycle triggered by the minimal volt probe - so with a full vape, it should be even worse.
Have you used the In'Ax successfully on other TC mods? If you have other TC mods and haven't tried it, you might want to. If you don't have any TC mods, you might want to Google/search this forum to find experiences of others using it with TC. A DNA 40 would automatically adjust for the lowering resistance by refining down, but that would still have a noticeable, negative effect on TC because a user's set temp would need to drop. And if it fluctuates up an down, as seems likely it must, then no setting and no refinement could make it accurate. So if this is a general problem with that atty, I would expect to hear others describing it.
Ultimately I think there's nothing further you can do but check the atomizer and build. If you're sure of the build, it must be the atomizer. If it's working fine on other TC mods, I suppose it could be the interface between atomizer and the Dicodes - though the 2380 sprung pin is pretty great in my experience, it's strong enough to give a tight connection with any length of atty pin (at least any I have tried.)
I would also try another atty in tc with the dicodes.
Oh yeah for sure - was this your first TC build of any kind Arthur? If so, I didn't realise, and yes definitely try others - it's not impossible the Dicodes has a 510 connection issue itself, which should be ruled out.
Right.... I have successfully used tc mode successfully with other atomizer. Ultimately I think it is as thebloke suggests and the Inax is inherently unstable for tc. There's no way to tighten the 510 pin as the pin and positive post are all one piece that just presses into the base and the top of the coil is fixed to the positive post with their "grip sticks" which also just press on. The only thing that screws down is the negative lead.
Dunno if this is any help but this guy is using two types of In'ax exclusively with a DNA 40 and Ni200
I'm gonna try rebuilding it with ni200 tonight to see if that makes a difference. May also do a few less wraps with ti too. The coil I have on is reading 1 ohm which is pretty big for ti.
I guess that's the problem. The resistance will also get higher when the coil is hot and then is probably out of spec for TC builds and the chip gets confused. Another reason might be the oxidation of the mesh must be pretty much perfect so that the resistance isn't all over the place, especially while firing.
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