Nope. Doesn't fit. The 510 part on the nahualon is super long? It fits my mvp and sig150, but won't screw down on dicodes or wizard. Really weird.
dicodes 2380, dicodes dani extreme and pipeline 2
- Thread starter IanDVaypes
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any thoughts on the Temp Process screen. comes after Confirm after Temp_init 1
cant find any mention anywhere..
also i have the downward temp drift issue that Tom described a few pages back. This is on a squape build which has been rock solid so far so i'm a bit confused..ill try cranking down the build some more if that is even possible...
cant find any mention anywhere..
also i have the downward temp drift issue that Tom described a few pages back. This is on a squape build which has been rock solid so far so i'm a bit confused..ill try cranking down the build some more if that is even possible...
Oh yeah that Temp Process confused me a lot too. It's a stupid design, you do Temp Init, then it highlights Confirm, then it displays and highlights Process - so surely you have to press that too? And you do, and it just shows it again, and again..
It's a limitation in their UI at a confusing place. Whenever it displays any message, that message then becomes highlighted in inverse - even if you can't press on it. They've made the UI do that for every message. For example, if you go to the Battery Voltage menu, which shows the resting voltage and after-voltage-drop voltage, then after the "do you want to press again to move to next menu item" timeout those figures get highlighted in inverse as if you can press on them - but doing so does nothing.
For some reason it's further confusing with the Temp Process screen because pressing does do something - it displays it again. Really confusing and bad design.
All you need to do is press on Temp Init, press again on Temp Confirm, then when it says Process it's done and you don't press again. Wait for Process to disappear and then it's completed. You can now double-tap the menu back on, and tap quickly again on the Init screen to progress to the Temp/Resistance screen which should now be displaying your locked resistance - which you'd expect (if you did it quickly) to be slightly above 20°C, and as you check again and again it should settle on 20°C and stop.
If it goes below 20°C, yeah that's odd. All you can do is adjust the build. I only had it happen once, on one early Titanium build on my Rose v2 clone which has an unusual wire attachment method - legs go through the base and then get screwed in from each side. In my clone at least, that's rather unreliable.
Not sure why it would happen in a Squape with screw head attachments. Also check other parts of the atomizer - positive pin etc. Double check for shorts, though I guess in a Squape that really shouldn't happen (unless perhaps the coil is shorting against itself? Is it fully spaced or is any part micro/contact?) Hopefully it's a once off.
cheers lad. I figured it did nothing ion the end. As you say its a bit silly.
I guess there must be something worng with the squape but if i was going to bet on a solid build, the squape would be it. Its a spaced 24g Ti - nothing fancy and it is bolted down tight. There may be some play in the 510/positive post connection or something i guess but god knows where that might be. It is actually vaping ok but I need to change it up next time i refill anyway so I'll rebuild then. I'll post if i do or dont manage to fix it. Meanwhile I'll try with another atty and see what happens.
Liking the 2380 so far. Man its a sturdy device and I kind of like having a tube mod to keep all these boxes company!! Havent broken out the '500s yet. Still in 18650 mode. fun fun fun!!
The SquapeR has been known to be somewhat temperamental at times with TC and its 510 connection.
You can get solid TC going, just wanna make sure the 510 pin is clean and everything is extra secure.
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I hear you on that one. This was absolutely brand new, freshly cleaned and polished and was working peachy on the SXK VS clone. I'll check it over anyway. It'll be fine Im sure. As I said, it is vaping ok anyway although a tad cooler than Id expect presumably due to a base resistance error!
I placed a few strands of silicone wire that I use for my mod builds. I simply place it in the threads of the 510 pin to where I have to force screw the 510 pin in. My squape was horrible with tc builds and now it's perfect, no problems what so ever. You can clean it but juice will eventually get down in there.
Does anyone know what the power boost settings do? I think that the 1-3 do a short boost in the beginning with a difference in time and 4-10 do short bursts throughout the whole vape but I don't understand exactly what specs they are. This is the only part of the manual not in English dangit.
Does anyone know what the power boost settings do? I think that the 1-3 do a short boost in the beginning with a difference in time and 4-10 do short bursts throughout the whole vape but I don't understand exactly what specs they are. This is the only part of the manual not in English dangit.
I've also read someone who used my recommendation used a piece of 30g ni200 wire instead with great results.
Check out this doc. it's referenced in the Dicodes 2380 manual as a source for a fuller explanation of boost, including graphs. Pages 10, 11 and 12: http://www.dicodes.de/upload/dicodes_tiny_manual_english.pdf
Wow that's pretty interesting. So what do you think is the reason for the benefit? The 510 wasn't screwing down fully tight?
If you get a chance could you post a picture of the wire in the threads, before you tighten down?
Thanks!
Oh man, I read that manual front to back before mine even arrived, didn't everyone else do that
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The screw doesn't have great contact with the threads creating a variable resistance. With enough space in the threads, juice gets in there creating more of a variable in resistance. Same reason people can't get the r91 to work with tc. When you add a wire of some sort in between the threads, the metal to metal contact is increased with more force. This is what will fix the non reliable tc in the atty. Any atty with an adjustable 510 pin will have this issue due to the threads not having full contact. Quick and easy fix. I'll snap a pic when I get a chance.
Just unscrewed 510 pin one turn and it now look good. Presumably the dicodes 510 is now pushing back on it enough to firm everything up. Not quite the fix @IanDVaypes suggested but spot on with diagnosis I reckon. Thanks my friend!! Man I love this 2380/SqRs/Ti combo. Excellent vape indeed. Can't put it down!! Ok it's not cheap but my god it's good!!
And it's very short, leaving a large gap between any atomizer and mod. So large that @TheotherSteveS returned his Extreme v2 to swap it for the spring loaded 2380.
The gap is apparently intentional - Dicodes have stated in their Application Note For Temp Controlled Vaping that the ideal connection between mod and atomizer is a spring, as this helps balance out heat effects on resistance (so they say anyway.) They say that if a spring is not possible, then there should be a gap between mod and atomizer.
However this doesn't answer the question as to why they felt they couldn't put a spring 510 in the Extreme v2, given that a) they already say that's the optimum solution b) the Extreme v2 costs £150 / $235, and so is hardly a budget mod and thus there really seems to be no excuse for not giving it the best 510 solution.
It's pretty cheap and nasty of Dicodes, in my view. It appears to be a deliberate cut of its capabilities as a way of justifying the extra $120 cost of the 2380.
The 2380's spring 510 is very good, probably the best I have. But I don't believe it can be so expensive to manufacture that they couldn't put one in the Extreme v2 as well. Worst case, if it really is some super expensive marvel of German 510 engineering, they should have added £10 / $15 to the price of the v2 to pay for it. I can't imagine many people who would pay £150 / $235 for the Extreme v2 wouldn't also pay £160 / $250 with the benefit of spring 510.
But at the end of the day we're talking about a brass pin, a small spring, some stainless threading and a rubber/plastic insulator. They could have made the pin out of bloody gold and still justified putting it in the Extreme
The gap is apparently intentional - Dicodes have stated in their Application Note For Temp Controlled Vaping that the ideal connection between mod and atomizer is a spring, as this helps balance out heat effects on resistance (so they say anyway.) They say that if a spring is not possible, then there should be a gap between mod and atomizer.
However this doesn't answer the question as to why they felt they couldn't put a spring 510 in the Extreme v2, given that a) they already say that's the optimum solution b) the Extreme v2 costs £150 / $235, and so is hardly a budget mod and thus there really seems to be no excuse for not giving it the best 510 solution.
It's pretty cheap and nasty of Dicodes, in my view. It appears to be a deliberate cut of its capabilities as a way of justifying the extra $120 cost of the 2380.
The 2380's spring 510 is very good, probably the best I have. But I don't believe it can be so expensive to manufacture that they couldn't put one in the Extreme v2 as well. Worst case, if it really is some super expensive marvel of German 510 engineering, they should have added £10 / $15 to the price of the v2 to pay for it. I can't imagine many people who would pay £150 / $235 for the Extreme v2 wouldn't also pay £160 / $250 with the benefit of spring 510.
But at the end of the day we're talking about a brass pin, a small spring, some stainless threading and a rubber/plastic insulator. They could have made the pin out of bloody gold and still justified putting it in the Extreme
If it would have only added 15 bucks to the cost, they probably would have.And it's very short, leaving a large gap between any atomizer and mod. So large that @TheotherSteveS returned his Extreme v2 to swap it for the spring loaded 2380.
The gap is apparently intentional - Dicodes have stated in their Application Note For Temp Controlled Vaping that the ideal connection between mod and atomizer is a spring, as this helps balance out heat effects on resistance (so they say anyway.) They say that if a spring is not possible, then there should be a gap between mod and atomizer.
However this doesn't answer the question as to why they felt they couldn't put a spring 510 in the Extreme v2, given that a) they already say that's the optimum solution b) the Extreme v2 costs £150 / $235, and so is hardly a budget mod and thus there really seems to be no excuse for not giving it the best 510 solution.
It's pretty cheap and nasty of Dicodes, in my view. It appears to be a deliberate cut of its capabilities as a way of justifying the extra $120 cost of the 2380.
The 2380's spring 510 is very good, probably the best I have. But I don't believe it can be so expensive to manufacture that they couldn't put one in the Extreme v2 as well. Worst case, if it really is some super expensive marvel of German 510 engineering, they should have added £10 / $15 to the price of the v2 to pay for it. I can't imagine many people who would pay £150 / $235 for the Extreme v2 wouldn't also pay £160 / $250 with the benefit of spring 510.
But at the end of the day we're talking about a brass pin, a small spring, some stainless threading and a rubber/plastic insulator. They could have made the pin out of bloody gold and still justified putting it in the Extreme
It might come down to its footprint, perhaps that's the the 2380 is 23+mm? Perhaps they couldn't fit it in properly to a 22mm mod? Or both footprint abs cost? It's supposedly a pretty badass connection [emoji14]
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Lots of 22mm mods have adjustable, even floating plus pin, so i don't see why isn't one in extreme v2. Ffs, even 16mm ones have...
As for me, i really don't see point of spending extra 100$ for 2380, when i only want a 18350 size mod.
In some way, this is really unprofessional from Dicodes...
As for me, i really don't see point of spending extra 100$ for 2380, when i only want a 18350 size mod.
In some way, this is really unprofessional from Dicodes...
I'm only referring to their own spring loaded pin, can't really compare it to others, we don't know what all makes up their own pin. Perhaps the way they wanted to design theirs, it wouldn't work/fit.
Unprofessional? Riiiight, just because you don't agree with a design choice has nothing to do with their professionalism. How many other manufacturers offer two year warranties on their products in the vape community?
Anyways, the choice is up to you. If you can't deal with the fixed pin, then there is a 2380. If that's not something you want, then speak with your wallet and go to a competitor. Great thing is that no one forces us to buy anything, we hey to choose
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