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Well, more people might agree with that than you might think, as the t3s and protanks are pretty popular. I like my reduxes too, but I'll be the first to admit that a few hours on a redux can be a little hard on the throat. The dream coil sets a little farther away and never causes me any problems. The t3s are farther away still and although there isn't much difference, I dare say you're just liking the smoother feel of the vapor.
But by the way, did you have the dream working well when you tried it?
Yes had the dream setup working nice. I can also make ss mesh coils in my sleep without hot spots (I made enough of them lol). I am really liking the easier smooth draw of the bottom coil kangers. Whats nice is there are so many great products out there now just find the one that works best for you. No more fiddling just to get juice on the coils like a couple of years ago
These new vapors have no idea what we went through. We paved the road for them. The product today compared to two years ago so so much better. Now its now what works but what works best for you
Amen to that, lol. (remember tea bag mods?)
hello all, fairly new to the ecf,
i did a lot of independent research on cotton several months ago before discovering this site.
here is my two cents worth.
i am currently running a AGA/t2 with a wally world cotton yarn (un-mercerized, more on this later) U-wick on top of a joyetech Evic mod.
i started out using cotton balls, but got a very mediciny taste, i didn't boil them.
then i went to hobby lobby and bought some mercerized quilting thread, some japanese kumihomo brading discs, and braided various wicks from this thread.
(i was on a buisnes trip and stuck in a hotel with alot of time on my hands what can say LOL)
the braided thread wicks did not wick very well, i am not sure , but i believe it was due to the mercerized thread.
to save you from looking up mercerization, cotton fibers are exposed to sodium hydroxide, this apparently strengthens the fibers, but i believe this also affects thier ability to wick.
i suspect that the cotton used in cheesecloth is also mercerized, to give it strength.
anyway, so i found that the 100% cotton yarn at wally world is not mercerized.
it definitely wicks fairly well, and much better than the earlier thread.
i still have issues in the aga though, as it has to wick quite a verticle distance to make it to the coil.
i am waiting for supplies in the mail, but next experiment is going to try the wire rope wick, but i am going to wrap the part were the coil is with cheesecloth.
this should solve my vertical wicking issue, but stll enable me to have cotton as a buffer materail around the coil.
i did a lot of independent research on cotton several months ago before discovering this site.
here is my two cents worth.
i am currently running a AGA/t2 with a wally world cotton yarn (un-mercerized, more on this later) U-wick on top of a joyetech Evic mod.
i started out using cotton balls, but got a very mediciny taste, i didn't boil them.
then i went to hobby lobby and bought some mercerized quilting thread, some japanese kumihomo brading discs, and braided various wicks from this thread.
(i was on a buisnes trip and stuck in a hotel with alot of time on my hands what can say LOL)
the braided thread wicks did not wick very well, i am not sure , but i believe it was due to the mercerized thread.
to save you from looking up mercerization, cotton fibers are exposed to sodium hydroxide, this apparently strengthens the fibers, but i believe this also affects thier ability to wick.
i suspect that the cotton used in cheesecloth is also mercerized, to give it strength.
anyway, so i found that the 100% cotton yarn at wally world is not mercerized.
it definitely wicks fairly well, and much better than the earlier thread.
i still have issues in the aga though, as it has to wick quite a verticle distance to make it to the coil.
i am waiting for supplies in the mail, but next experiment is going to try the wire rope wick, but i am going to wrap the part were the coil is with cheesecloth.
this should solve my vertical wicking issue, but stll enable me to have cotton as a buffer materail around the coil.
oh i forgot to mention i am running a 1.6 ohm 4/5 turn .1 ribbon kanthal coil, .125" dia
sorry for the segmented posts,
but i wanted to clarify another misconception that i read earlier in this thread.
one member had said that the reason why white bleached cotton turns yellow over time / with repeated washings is due to the bleach washing out.
this is in correct, bleach is made from sodium hypoclorite, is very reactive, hence wants to combine with other elements to form more complex less reactive compounds.
the reason cotton turns yellow, is due directly to oxidation of the cellulose fiber. i found this information while researching the effects of vacuum and heat on cotton fibers for a totally un-related topic.
but i wanted to clarify another misconception that i read earlier in this thread.
one member had said that the reason why white bleached cotton turns yellow over time / with repeated washings is due to the bleach washing out.
this is in correct, bleach is made from sodium hypoclorite, is very reactive, hence wants to combine with other elements to form more complex less reactive compounds.
the reason cotton turns yellow, is due directly to oxidation of the cellulose fiber. i found this information while researching the effects of vacuum and heat on cotton fibers for a totally un-related topic.
I couldn't get cotton to wick well in a couple of chids I had, but I'll admit I didn't try very hard. Some folks have though, so I guess it can be done.
In the aga t2 remove the fill screw and run a cotton U wick with a vertical coil. Wrap the trailing cotton around the top leg loosely once and down thru the fill hole. Wicking issue solved.
I would recommend not using sub 2.0 ohm coils with cotton. Especially with ribbon wire. Cotton cannot wick fast enuff to keep up with that kind of heat/surface area. Thats been my experience. Try 30 or 32gauage kanthal at about 2.4 ohms.
I would recommend not using sub 2.0 ohm coils with cotton. Especially with ribbon wire. Cotton cannot wick fast enuff to keep up with that kind of heat/surface area. Thats been my experience. Try 30 or 32gauage kanthal at about 2.4 ohms.
I found cotton crochet thread (mercerized) didn't work too well, even when putting multiple strands in parallel. Also tried Kumihimo cord. Same thing. Worsted weight cotton yarn (Peaches and Creme) seemed to work well for dripping, provided you let it soak up the eliquids long enough. Then, untwisted strands from the yarn (4 strands, I think) and tried to kumihimo those--strands fell apart as I was braiding them. As they fell apart, I noticed they were not twisted nearly as tight as the thread was. Next, I took the individual yarn strands, twisted each tight, and kumihimo those. Result was tight wick that didn't wick well. Another attempt using thicker-but-less-stiff mercerised pearl cotton thread. Worked quite well, provided I got enough strands together, and didn't wrap coil too tight.
Then, looking over various 'cotton wick' threads (pun not intended), I see many have had success with 'fluffy' wicks, but not so much success with stiff/tight-twisted wicks, and it didn't matter if mercerised or not. Tight twists seems to choke off the wicking.
I also found that cotton seems to wick great for the first 10mm or so, and then greatly falls off--great for dripping, but not so well in any tank-type device. I often have a 'vivi-tank', on an eGo, on a lanyard. It hangs nearly horizontal, or slightly upside down. Cotton works well in this, since it's behaving as a gravity-fed wick.
Wife just picked up some butcher's twine, and if it passes the burn-test, I'll be trying that out next.
I am not having issues with wicking with the yarn cotton from walmart. Running 8 watts (mean mode) with a 2.2 ohm coil on a zmax with 2 pieces of yarn. Tomorow will be 7 days 2 tank fulls a day
I've seen several posts claiming good results with the cotton yarn. It looks like it would be easy to work with as well.
What kind of juice do you use? I'm usually replacing the wick after 7 or 8 mls but then again I use a lot of flavors that are known coil gunkers such as caramel and vanilla. I usually start with a tobacco base then add other flavors to it.
i don't think the resistance of the coil matters if you are running a VV mod, my aga sits on top of an Evic so i can turn down or up the power regardless of the coil resistance.
although i do agree with you about the ribbon, as there is more contact area with wick, and cooling affect from the air hole which would require more power to compensate for, and require a faster fluid supply to prevent dry hitting.
i modded my aga, drilled out the wick hole to .125 and pulled the ground post out and drilled that to .125 also. U wick goes in both .125 holes and i leave the fill screw out.
it keeps up fairly good, unless the temp. of the fluid gets low and thickens up.
I use cotton butchers twine for agat+ U wicks. Mine is unmodded. I run thru the wick hole and fill hole. I know the post can be removed and how to do so but didnt see the need to do so. Lower ohms I believe relates to more heat in the wire. In general, the low ohm (saying sub 2.0 here) in my experience always burn the cotton up in a short amount of time. Ive found better results at higher ohms.
Regardless if your juice temp drops and doesnt wick well ar that point it signals to me that maybe its not viscous enough which could be part of the issue. Are you vaping high vg? A few drops of distilled water will help greatly and should not effect flavor concentration any. The juice itself is just as important as the wicking material.
By the way, I make my juice and in general its 80% VG. The setups I run with butchers twine run great. Again as long as im over say 2.2 ohms and Im fairly good building coils now even with mesh.
Regardless if your juice temp drops and doesnt wick well ar that point it signals to me that maybe its not viscous enough which could be part of the issue. Are you vaping high vg? A few drops of distilled water will help greatly and should not effect flavor concentration any. The juice itself is just as important as the wicking material.
By the way, I make my juice and in general its 80% VG. The setups I run with butchers twine run great. Again as long as im over say 2.2 ohms and Im fairly good building coils now even with mesh.
I make all of my juice as well, start out with 75 VG 25 PG before flavoring, and i think most flavorings are 100% PG or PG and PGA so my final ratio depending on flavor strength is slighty higher PG and lower VG probably around average 70 VG / 30 PG
Hey guys, Can I ask, why does the tightness of the wire around the cotton affect the flavor or the durability of the cotton wick? and another question, does the cotton wick have less vapor production? because I noticed that the vapor is lesser than the last wick I used, which is silica.
I think this has been answered before but i will re-iterate. the coil wick interface affects vapor production and wick life because, if the wick is to loose IE gaps between coil and wick, the oil will not be in contact with as much juice and hence lower vapor production. if the wick coil interface is to tight, it will do two things, it will be in very close contact with the wick and more heat will be transfered to the wick causing burning of the wick, and it can also choke the wick from being able to wick juice to the coil, which will aid in the overheating of the coil and burning the wick, and also lower vapor production.
from my experience the best wick coil setup is when the coil lighty touches the wick without constricting it, meaning the wick dia doesn't change where the coil is touching.
this can be kind of tricky with cotton, as it swells when it soaks up juice.
I make all of my juice as well, start out with 75 VG 25 PG before flavoring, and i think most flavorings are 100% PG or PG and PGA so my final ratio depending on flavor strength is slighty higher PG and lower VG probably around average 70 VG / 30 PG
Sounds good. I want to try it now.
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