Well, I have 2 each of the 2AA and 3AA boxes coming, as well as a half dozen of the switches. I think I'm going to put 2 of the 14500's in parallel... with 1800mah, I should stay over 4V a good long while!!
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Is there enough depth to the case for fitting a chopped off e-cigar? I know after I remove the battery connector,switch etc from the e cigar i can chop the tube down to correct length but I'm not sure weather the side of the battery case is high enough to drill and fit the tapered end though? The end that would need to go through is approx 1/2".
If the cigar is any larger than a AA battery, I would guess not. It would end up being larger than the sidewall of the battery box.
It would be a very tight fit that would require some very precise drilling. The battery slots on mine measure 5/8". There would be no room for error, but it is possible.
Just a quick line to say thanks Nico for all the info you dug up on making a Nicostick. I had been using an e-cig (Dse-901) for about 3 months, and realized the battery replacement was going to be a problem. I figured I would tackle the Nicostick. I had had soldering experience and figured it would be a simple project since you had given a parts list and detailed instructions. With an arrogant attitude I whipped it together and didn't bother with a mult-meter. At the point where I put the battery in I found out how they temper steel, as I watched the spring on my negative terminal get bright red and my box do a partial meltdown. At this point production discontinued until a mult-meter was found. After the initial failure I slowed things down and haven't had any major problems since. I still just make the original and the only modification I have done is to add a drop of hot glue on top of my soldered connections to take care of rough handling. Once again thanks for all of the information you gathered on the subject. I would be back on analogs if it weren't for you.
While I am waiting, seems like forever, for my batteries and charger to arrive from China I have been looking at the commercial versions of the mods. From what I can tell the Janty Stick is just a pretty version of the Nicostick. Am I wrong?
The other high voltage versions are expensive and I see no need to push the voltage going to the atty higher. I just need more consistant run time for my 510. Keeping a good battery on my 510 is a constant hassle during a normal day. The 510 atomizer and cart are well designed to function at 3.7 volts. Sometimes the stock system outruns the wicking abilities and I have to slow down between drags and give the cart more time to wick.
I've already trashed one battery box trying to drill a half inch hole with a drill. Lesson learned there, the drimmel gets the job from now on. At least the boxes and electronic parts are cheap and available here in the US. Thanks guys for sharing your experiences it really cuts the learning curve a lot.
Kevin
The other high voltage versions are expensive and I see no need to push the voltage going to the atty higher. I just need more consistant run time for my 510. Keeping a good battery on my 510 is a constant hassle during a normal day. The 510 atomizer and cart are well designed to function at 3.7 volts. Sometimes the stock system outruns the wicking abilities and I have to slow down between drags and give the cart more time to wick.
I've already trashed one battery box trying to drill a half inch hole with a drill. Lesson learned there, the drimmel gets the job from now on. At least the boxes and electronic parts are cheap and available here in the US. Thanks guys for sharing your experiences it really cuts the learning curve a lot.
Kevin
The Janty Stick and the NicoStick do have striking similarities, but there are a few differences as well. The Janty has USB recharge, the possibility of an automatic switch, and adapters for several models (NicoStick has none of these). The NicoStick has a master kill switch, low price, and allows for a protected battery (the Janty does not have these). The NicoStick is also deliberately SIMPLE. Fewer gizmos and gadgets mean easier troubleshooting and repair. Building it yourself gives you a sort of intimacy with your mod and a strong confidence in your ability to fix it.
I have not found anything helpful about going above 5 volts. I have, however, found the manual switch to be the greatest improvement to date. A manual switch at 3.7 volts can provide some serious vapor, atomizer longevity, and throat hit without sacrificing flavor. Higher than 5 volts and the flavor starts to die off. I, too, found that my 510 performed exceptionally well at standard voltage - if only the battery lasted more than an hour. I fell in love with it right away and sunk a big portion of my income tax return into stocking up on spare parts. It is still my favorite, especially modded.
For the holes on the NicoStick, I now use a cordless drill to make a hole about 3/8" in diameter, then use the dremel to file that hole to the exact size needed. I also learned a hard knocks lesson about rushing in without thinking when I drilled a hole in the palm of my hand (my first power tool accident in over 20 years of tinkering with them) by stupidly holding the box in an unsafe way thinking I would be able to stop the drill before it reached my hand.
Agreed, I am disappointed in the small 360ma battery. I plan to use the 900ma 14500 batteries on mine. That may be overkill but since I have to use a screwdriver to change the battery I want to do it less often. My version 2.0 will hopefully have a charging plug.
That sounds like good advice. I will do the same.
Kevin
Well I got the batteries and charger in the mail yesterday. Now thanks to you I have my first model working. Nothing any different than others have built but I already have ideas for version 2. I built mine with an led and that makes the fitting and soldering more difficult but I like the tactical feedback.
Kevin
Kevin
eBay My World - tube_buyer
5X Battery holder case with switch 2xAA 2 x AA 2AA
I found these on Ebay. They are a hair smaller than the RS 2AA boxes, but they have the little .... tabs that keep the box closed without the screw and they have the on off switch. 5 for $8.99 w/free shipping!
The only thing I had to do was shave one corner of the top tab/clip slightly so it slides over the 14500 and into the slot.
Thanks for the link. I have discovered that I actually don't need the screw installed. The cover does lock in place nicely without installing the screw. I used it all day today and it works just like I had hoped it would.
My version of the nicostick had the connection of the atomizer to the battery take place outside of the battery box. I don't want any juice leaking into my battery box. This is what concerns my about the Janty Stick. I know the 510 adapter isn't out yet but their current version has this joint inside the battery box. There are many compaints about leakage.
Kevin
My version of the nicostick had the connection of the atomizer to the battery take place outside of the battery box. I don't want any juice leaking into my battery box. This is what concerns my about the Janty Stick. I know the 510 adapter isn't out yet but their current version has this joint inside the battery box. There are many compaints about leakage.
Kevin
Well it's day 3 of my nicostick use. Everything is going great so far. I can do an entire day on 2 batteries. I'm using the Trustfire 14500 batteries w/PCB. The battery is slightly longer than an AA battery and does fit snugly in the box. I thought at first the batteries were not going to fit.
I'm glad I mounted the battery connector so the connection to the atty is outside of the box. Today I started using the new and improved JC Tennessee Cured juice and it is thinner than the other juice I was using. I got my first leak and I didn't get any juice in the box.
To me this configuration is the best e-cig out there. The performance of the 510 with great battery life using inexpensive off the shelf batteries.
Now if I could find my favorite juice...
I'm glad I mounted the battery connector so the connection to the atty is outside of the box. Today I started using the new and improved JC Tennessee Cured juice and it is thinner than the other juice I was using. I got my first leak and I didn't get any juice in the box.
To me this configuration is the best e-cig out there. The performance of the 510 with great battery life using inexpensive off the shelf batteries.
Now if I could find my favorite juice...
I'm using a 510 connector gleaned from a m401 charger - it's sealed just like the 510 manual battery, so I'm going to with a buried connection.
it is a connection that isn't seen because it is inside the case.
I thought so, that means that he will eventually get a leak "inside the case". My connection is "outside the case" so I don't get leaks into my battery box. That's the whole point of making the connection outside the case. You cannot stop the 510 atty from leaking at the connector. If you overfill or get very runny fluid at some point you will get fluid leaking out the bottom of the atty. This is the problem I have with the Janty Stick. Besides the lower battery capacity, if the atty connection is inside the battery box you have a potential for a leak.
Also it is very easy for me to change the atomizer.
Kevin
Also it is very easy for me to change the atomizer.
Kevin
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With a sealed connection to the atomizer, there are no leaks unless I *REALLY* flood things, and that would create a leak even with an external connection due to wicking down the wiring.
I'm not worried.
The bottom of the atomizer contains the air inlet holes that allow you to draw air in to mix with the liquid. If air can get in then liquid can leak out. The sealed battery contacts only seals the battery from getting liquid into it. The atomizer is not sealed on the bottom.
Kevin
I know that. Reread what I said: "With a sealed connection to the atomizer" - the power connector that I am using is sealed, just like the manual battery.
If an atomizer is flooded out to the point that the liquid is running out of the top of the connector, then ANY boxmod (including yours) is going to leak. For that matter, it would flood and run down the outside of a manual battery, as well.
Does that clear up my reasoning?
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