Discussing the NicoStick

[Carlos49]

What I did was to put a,black, piece of felt between the switch and the box. Could also use cardboard or anything else as a spacer because once tightened you really can't see it. Hope this helps

I noticed the moment switch listed is a very tight fit in the AA case depth wise. It actually doesn't fit by a mm or two (bulges out the case when screwed together) Any work around, or possibly a lower profile switch that fits a little better? The only other one my local RS has is a modified microswitch that looks pretty flimsy.

I'm going to mess with it this weekend to see if I can modify the depth of the switch without destroying it.

 

[seminolewind]

Right, anything would work. I used a thin plastic leg band for a chicken!

 

[stevo_tdo]

Question. Are you all using lead free solder? Just curious as to the potential of fumes and inhalation. Of course i looked at lead free solder and it has just as many warnings. I don't want to mod myself to death..lol

 

[nicowolf]

Question. Are you all using lead free solder? Just curious as to the potential of fumes and inhalation. Of course i looked at lead free solder and it has just as many warnings. I don't want to mod myself to death..lol

Answer. Some are, some aren't. I am using no solder at all. When I first started modding, I didn't even think to by the leadfree stuff. As time went on, I got to thinking I might be able to reduce the amount of solder I used. I eventually managed to make a no solder added mod. Follow your conscience. The important part is just to get started, and to know that you will end up modifying your mods (you will grow as a modder). There has been some discussion about whether or not it is harmful in a mod that we are inhaling through, but I don't have enough desire to go find it. Since it has already occurred to you, I am going to say that you would feel better and safer and more confident if you used leadfree solder.

 

[Lazarus]

I've got nothing but 95-5 lead free solder. It's cheap and available everywhere pretty much.

Good question to ask since a lot of nicostick mods are drawing air from the inside the box with recessed attys. I set mine up as an external atty on the 901, and sealed the box.

The other thing that needs to be brought out is the cleaning of solder connections. If you leave the rosin on the connection you solder, after a while it becomes corrosive and will not only degrade (corrode) the connection, but it will emit some nasty stuff when it evaporates (like all of the residue it cleaned off your connection).

Clean the connections up with acetone or alcohol on a swab.

 

[a2dcovert]

Danger from lead exposure like asbestos has been very over done. Overexposure to either can be hazardous to your health. Casual contact with lead by using solder that contains lead is not hazardous. If you worked as an electronic tech soldering circuit board components all day long for many years you might be at risk for lead poisoning. The risk from lead is by actually handling it or breathing the fumes given off during the soldering process. Save your worry for the many real danders out there.

Kevin

 

[mnealtx]

Agreed - you're at the most risk DURING the soldering process, not after, unless you somehow get your atomizer hot enough to melt the solder connections. If you get things THAT hot, I think you're looking at a lot more burning plastic fumes than solder fumes.

 

[stevo_tdo]

Yeah that and i'm sure my eyebrows would be gone by then too

 

[Sumratio]

Pics of my second Nicostick ... this one is for the 510 using a burned out 401 atty as the connector. My first was a 401 but I find that the 510 is better for dripping.

The atty doesn't fit flush but works just fine. And I do use solder ... safe from lead because it does not get any where near hot enough to remelt solder joints.

 

[boondongle]

A regular AA battery will not power an atomizer. The atomizer requires 3 volts or more to produce any vapor at all. Alkaline batteries can only give 1.5 volts and cannot sustain a high drain like our atomizers.

Boy, I sure wish I'd read this thread entirely instead of spending three days fiddling around trying to figure out why my Nicostick wasn't firing the atomizer. I checked and rechecked every connection, bought a new switch, rebuilt it multiple times...and all the while I was thinking..."Hmm, maybe a regular AA battery isn't enough to drive the atomizer...but I don't want to buy one until I'm sure the thing works." Well, I suppose I'm off to order 14500 batteries and chargers, now, as none of the RadioShack stores near me have them in stock.

Excellent tutorial, Nicowolf. I have the feeling I'll be making more of these for friends.

 

[fonosmoak]

Thanks to everyone for their input,

With a special thanks to Nicowolf for all the work and sharing...

OK, I've just ordered my Protected 14500 3.6 Volt Li-Batts.

found them on the net, in the USA $7.00 a piece, now I wonder do I need a fancy new charger? I assume I don't, they're protected right?

Anyway, I'm off to the tool shed...

No local place, not Fry's, not Radio Shack, not Batteries Plus, not the RC car hobby shop---no one carried these bats....

on-line only far as I can tell...

I'll update when it's all together

Thanks all
fo

 

[mnealtx]

fo -

Yes, you need an appropriate charger for the batteries. NiMh chargers and Li-ion chargers are two entirely different beasts.

 

[fonosmoak]

fo -

Yes, you need an appropriate charger for the batteries. NiMh chargers and Li-ion chargers are two entirely different beasts.

Dang,

Ok, where would one find one of these chargers...

Back to China I suppose...

If it's not one thing...

Well thanks, anyone have a link?

Dang...

Best Regards
fo

 

[bushi]

I just got a charger for 14500s at BatteryJunction.com. I can't post links yet so search for the Ultrafire wf-139 Lithium Ion battery charger. It'll set you back about $17.

 

[fonosmoak]

Thanks,

Just ordered the very same one...

seems to have as many good reviews as skeptical ones...

Overcharging being the point of contention.

i'm thinking Protected has just got to come into play on this issue so I pulled the trigger...

The prices are not bad but the shipping is killing me...

off to rat shack for another momentary switch.

Thanks
fo

 

[jj2]

Nothing earth shattering but it made me happy.
For the second time, my NicoStick has saved me from throwing an atomizer away that would no longer work on an automatic battery because it wouldn't stop heating.
I LOVE THE NICOSTICK.

 

[fonosmoak]

TA DA!

Drum roll please... I did it !!

Although I haven't received my batteries yet (a week's wait I figure) according to my Multi meter I'm looking good...

This was a Nico-box for a KR808D-1...

Eminently doable...

Thanks Nicowolf you made my week...

Best Regards
fo

 

[jj2]

Okay, my NicoStick. I think it's killing atomizers. Someone else had this problem, anyone figure out why?
I've been using two AA batteries until I get the lithum, could ths be why?

 

[nicowolf]

Okay, my NicoStick. I think it's killing atomizers. Someone else had this problem, anyone figure out why?
I've been using two AA batteries until I get the lithum, could ths be why?

That isn't enough battery power to keep up with an atomizer. At best, you have a smidge over 3 volts there. You might get a wisp of vapor with that, but nothing satisfying.

 

[mikes]

Hi Guys. tried to build my first nicostick.

using a non rechargable 3.7v lithium battery, aa battery box and switch as instructed.

Continuity of circuit checks out.

voltage checks out at 3.7 volts to the switch.

after the switch it drops to 1.5. I presume this is my problem.

The switch says it us 1.5/3 v.

Any ideas? THanks..Mike