DNA 40 Clone Discussion

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Croak

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Right behind you...
So there are "older" and "newer" firmware versions already? The older has a delay to fire and the newer no delay?

The first batch ordered direct from Kangxin came that way. Some slight chance that early arrivals at 3FVape had this older firmware at the beginning of this month. Kangxin responded to the issue, and fixed it in later batches (and all of the USB versions are later batches).
 

HolmanGT

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The first batch ordered direct from Kangxin came that way. Some slight chance that early arrivals at 3FVape had this older firmware at the beginning of this month. Kangxin responded to the issue, and fixed it in later batches (and all of the USB versions are later batches).

Croak,

I was looking at the V3 DNA40 Clone thread. I sure am glad you and Mr. Blue (sounds like song lyrics) posted about it a lot of good stuff over there.
 

retird

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Not my picture..... Hcigar HB DNA-40d Internals

HB%20DNA_zpsaebu9kjz.jpg


YouTube Hcigar HB DNA40-d... Part 1,2,3 from the same guy....short videos... not reviews:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7edqtBiiXTQ
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HMRSHDEtmOY
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n-ZKUocANrs

EDIT of 2/22/2015.. Poor grounding issue is being discussed elsewhere. Looking at the picture above you see 3 case ground connections (battery grounded to case, board grounded to case, and 510 grounded to case) each can have poor continuity/conductivity.Why not just wire from battery to the board and wire the board to the 510 connector thus removing the possibility of poor connections (case grounds).
 
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cobalt327

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I wonder where the "better" DNA 40 clone at FT (read more expensive and better looking internals (for what that's worth)) fits into the scheme of things, as far as performance and lack if glitches. FWIW FT also sells a different version for considerably less (these can be seen under the "Available models and parts:" heading on the FT page linked to above) but it looks just like a cheap DNA30 clone when you remove the cover, has the hot glue everywhere, etc.

Right now, I cannot seem to come to terms w/ANY of them. One part of me wants to get on the bandwagon, another part says don't be in too much of a hurry- it's still very early in the game and who knows what might be around the corner that could obsolete ALL of them. Sigh...
 
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HolmanGT

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I wonder where the "better" DNA 40 clone at FT (read more expensive and better looking internals (for what that's worth)) fits into the scheme of things, as far as performance and lack if glitches. FWIW FT also sells a different version for considerably less (these can be seen under the "Available models and parts:" heading on the FT page linked to above) but it looks just like a cheap DNA30 clone when you remove the cover, has the hot glue everywhere, etc.

Right now, I cannot seem to come to terms w/ANY of them. One part of me wants to get on the bandwagon, another part says don't be in too much of a hurry- it's still very early in the game and who knows what might be around the corner that could obsolete ALL of them. Sigh...

And just to make holding off harder they are selling the clones for half the price I paid for my old original eVic even the ones that are not full of hot glue. Albeit if it works correctly the hot glue wouldn't bother me. Working vs Hot Glue - Working always trumps Hot Glue.
 

Angel Eyes

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After a divorce five years ago I started back smoking AND dipping. I dropped the smokes in August of 2014 and dropped the dip two weeks ago. Going to make this a tobacco free year.

If you happened to dip a "Long Cut Straight" flavor, I would love to find that flavor or else "Red Man" chewing tobacco in a well made e-juice - preferably 100% VG or at least 80%.

I tried a very weak attempt at it from want2vape called Red Pirate, but it was not even remotely close.
 

BlueridgeDog

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Update on the Flask V3 Clone: I have off and on gotten the weak battery error which I thought was due to the fact that there was anodizing on the bottom threads. That was until I took the last set out to charge and noted that only one was drained. Hmmmm. So upon investigating tonight there is a screw post adjustment on the top of the battery compartment. I unscrewed them 1/2 turn each and the caps now snug up to the batteries w/o bottoming out on the threads. Prior to doing this I was able to tighten the caps so the point of stopping due to running out of threads, not compression of the battery. After doing this the device rocks like usual.

I "assume" they intended this to be used for button top batteries, but with the small adjustment they now work for my flat tops AND it saved me from buying a tap to clean the threads which I was about to do.

So...use button tops or adjust for your flat tops.

Next is to replace the 510. I have noticed that, since it is threaded, you will slowly thread it in while changing attys. So I am keeping a 1mm gap between the atty and the chassis, so when the atty bottoms out, I know it is been driven down...another trick that has kept this little guy rocking.

Still loving it and I would still buy another (I have one on order).
 

Crunchy2k

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Update on the Flask V3 Clone: I have off and on gotten the weak battery error which I thought was due to the fact that there was anodizing on the bottom threads. That was until I took the last set out to charge and noted that only one was drained. Hmmmm. So upon investigating tonight there is a screw post adjustment on the top of the battery compartment. I unscrewed them 1/2 turn each and the caps now snug up to the batteries w/o bottoming out on the threads. Prior to doing this I was able to tighten the caps so the point of stopping due to running out of threads, not compression of the battery. After doing this the device rocks like usual.

I "assume" they intended this to be used for button top batteries, but with the small adjustment they now work for my flat tops AND it saved me from buying a tap to clean the threads which I was about to do.

So...use button tops or adjust for your flat tops.

Next is to replace the 510. I have noticed that, since it is threaded, you will slowly thread it in while changing attys. So I am keeping a 1mm gap between the atty and the chassis, so when the atty bottoms out, I know it is been driven down...another trick that has kept this little guy rocking.

Still loving it and I would still buy another (I have one on order).
Its not real without pictures 8) That screw is a neat addition. My positive terminals don't have any screws, but it is one of the first batch from mid January. As to the 510 connection, I dropped the bad boy from desktop height and the 510 connection pulled out about a 1/16th". I tapped it back in. It is a very tight fit. Now I wonder what size the hole is, and whether the hole can be tapped or not.
 

tehdarkaura

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If you happened to dip a "Long Cut Straight" flavor, I would love to find that flavor or else "Red Man" chewing tobacco in a well made e-juice - preferably 100% VG or at least 80%.

I tried a very weak attempt at it from want2vape called Red Pirate, but it was not even remotely close.

Sorry for going off topic -- but Angel Eyes if you want a nice mellow tobacco flavor check out the BRY4 flavor at nude nicotine! Since I picked that up I havent mixed anything but that ;) its really a nice tobacco with just a tiny hint of caramel and just enough berry to give it just a touch of sweet. I mix it at 2% with 4mg and drip it constantly -- on my 3rd 75ML batch in a row right now ;)


http://www.nudenicotine.com/product/bry42/
 
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cobalt327

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Update on the Flask V3 Clone: I have off and on gotten the weak battery error which I thought was due to the fact that there was anodizing on the bottom threads. That was until I took the last set out to charge and noted that only one was drained. Hmmmm. So upon investigating tonight there is a screw post adjustment on the top of the battery compartment. I unscrewed them 1/2 turn each and the caps now snug up to the batteries w/o bottoming out on the threads. Prior to doing this I was able to tighten the caps so the point of stopping due to running out of threads, not compression of the battery. After doing this the device rocks like usual.

I "assume" they intended this to be used for button top batteries, but with the small adjustment they now work for my flat tops AND it saved me from buying a tap to clean the threads which I was about to do.

So...use button tops or adjust for your flat tops.

Next is to replace the 510. I have noticed that, since it is threaded, you will slowly thread it in while changing attys. So I am keeping a 1mm gap between the atty and the chassis, so when the atty bottoms out, I know it is been driven down...another trick that has kept this little guy rocking.

Still loving it and I would still buy another (I have one on order).
BRD if you don't mind me asking, where did you get your v3 clone?
 

Angel Eyes

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what are the best button top protected batteries for this unit including brand and model number?

Why protected?

Protected batteries have a very small circuit inside of them that shuts them off in the event that they are over-charged, over-discharged, overheated or short-circuited.

I really don't need a Li-ion battery blowing up near my face when I am trying to vape with some clone device that I really don't know the engineering behind or even much at all about the firm who manufactured it other than that their name might be Kangxin. :rolleyes:
 

tchavei

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Protected batteries have a very small circuit inside of them that shuts them off in the event that they are over-charged, over-discharged, overheated or short-circuited.

I really don't need a Li-ion battery blowing up near my face when I am trying to vape with some clone device that I really don't know the engineering behind or even much at all about the firm who manufactured it other than that their name might be Kangxin. :rolleyes:

I know what protected batteries are :)

Point is, several manufacturers recommend against using protective batteries in their regulated mod because the chipset will monitor the battery itself. Protected batteries (also called ICR) are protected because their chemistry is more unstable to begin with. IMR (unprotected) are more tolerant, have a safer chemistry and in case of failure, it will probably just vent instead of explode. You're asking for a grenade with a safety pin. Don't get the grenade in the first place :)

In mech mods a ICR might have some advantage because of the protective circuit but in regulated mode, it doesn't make much sense anymore.

This is obviously my opinion and I might be wrong :)

Regards
Tony
 

Aal_

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I know what protected batteries are :)

Point is, several manufacturers recommend against using protective batteries in their regulated mod because the chipset will monitor the battery itself. Protected batteries (also called ICR) are protected because their chemistry is more unstable to begin with. IMR (unprotected) are more tolerant, have a safer chemistry and in case of failure, it will probably just vent instead of explode. You're asking for a grenade with a safety pin. Don't get the grenade in the first place :)

In mech mods a ICR might have some advantage because of the protective circuit but in regulated mode, it doesn't make much sense anymore.

This is obviously my opinion and I might be wrong :)

Regards
Tony

Plus ICR has very low amp rating, you cannot draw much before protection kicks in.
 
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