DNA 40, NR, Nickel Builds

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Alexander Mundy

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Need some help from the experts :)

I received a replacement VS this week (with even worse screen issues) and cannot for the life of me get anything close to a satisfying vape with a nickel build. I have tried multiple coils in a Lemo, a Tugboat, and a Magma. All 3 read stable resistances. I am sticking with spaced coils and have tried wrapping on an 8-32 screw and also doing the hand wrap on a 3mm bit and compressing. (Both 8-9 wrapts.) I make sure no coils are touching. Resting resistance on these are consistently .14-.16 and stable. Staying with Japanese cotton right now and have tried varying densities and the wicking seems fine. Nothing dry.

The consistent problem I have is it is hitting TP within a couple of seconds and throttling back the watts. For example I have it at 450 & 25 watts. It will hit 450 and start lowering the watts dramatically within two seconds of firing. I even upped it to 600 and it did the same thing.

The other weird thing is I tried the builds with TP turned off and a .16 resting resistance coil would jump up in to the .3 - .4 range, drop down to the .2 - .25 range, and jump around in the .5+ range before getting a burnt type of taste. Turn TP back on and it will go back to the resting reading of .16 and stay there. No jumping around.

Any ideas would be much appreciated.

Put a low ohm (.15 to .2) kanthal build in and see if the resistance jumps around with TP turned off. If so, you have a loose connection, hot spot, short, or any of the other things that the 40 can't tolerate in TP mode. A short piece of kanthal (doesn't have to be a coil since you are just checking connections) will do the job.

"The other weird thing" is normal behavior for NI200 in non temp mode. NI200 has a large resistance increase with temperature, that is how the 40 knows ("assumes" is more accurate since any hot spot or loose connection etc. severely renders it's ability to know) You just don't see it jumping around in temp mode because it uses the baseline resistance at room temperature.
 

ARCHMAN

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I clean my coils by turning temp control OFF and bringing the watts down to 8. Dry burning and "flashing" with cold water a few times. I "made" a tiny stiff brush by trimming a water color paintbrush down to ~3mm long. Works great and I don't have to remove my atty from my mod unless I have juice under there. I change my wick out daily. Oh, and I'm mainly using an iHybrid Veritas w/ 24ga Titanium, 2.5 mm 5/6 wrap which comes out to ~2.5 ohms.


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qorax

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Kayfun4 TPed ;)

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jackmormon

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Thanks for the help folks.

Alexander--Your explanation about the jumping resistance in non-TP mode helped me understand what the DNA40 is actually doing! Makes total sense now. This is a really good illustration of what Nickel does under heat.

Holman--I took your advice on coil height in the Lemo. I think it was too low and and the wire was making almost full contact with the positive block.

Really not sure what my issues are -- it is quite a learning curve. Yesterday I had my first big "success" (I think.) I did a HUGE 13 wrap coil on an 8-32 screw (3.65mm ID) with work hardened wire. It read .26 and settled to .24. It is giving me the performance and vape quality that I was searching for. 22.5W/430F on the temp. Glorious vape. Now to see how long it stays working ;) Haven't messed with the drippers any more yet.

PS--It takes 10 or 12 seconds to hit TP without inhaling.
 
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Hey guys been following this thread trolling for people with my problem. I posted a thread in wick and wire but to some it up im having a problem with my ni200.... Resistance is off from steam engine and 410-460degrees gives me no vapor!!! Lolll rayon doesnt burn at 520 degreees! Im not a noob jumping to conclusions lolll man i have beeen rebuilding with this wire tryinggg everyyyything with always the same result. Only good thing is man my 30gauge coils look sweet now loll rock solid...
Found a post on reddit with some people having the same problem and found it to be the lightning vapes ni200... Im praying with some new wire thsi device will work properly ive been rebuilding in a garbage truck at work just trying everything to get it to operate at 410-460 degrees like everyone else!!!!
 

jackmormon

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Hey guys been following this thread trolling for people with my problem. I posted a thread in wick and wire but to some it up im having a problem with my ni200.... Resistance is off from steam engine and 410-460degrees gives me no vapor!!! Lolll rayon doesnt burn at 520 degreees! Im not a noob jumping to conclusions lolll man i have beeen rebuilding with this wire tryinggg everyyyything with always the same result. Only good thing is man my 30gauge coils look sweet now loll rock solid...
Found a post on reddit with some people having the same problem and found it to be the lightning vapes ni200... Im praying with some new wire thsi device will work properly ive been rebuilding in a garbage truck at work just trying everything to get it to operate at 410-460 degrees like everyone else!!!!

I have been struggling with the same issues and don't have any answers. What I can add is that I have been using both 28g NI from Lightning Vapes and the tempered NI from Stealth Vapes in the UK with the same results. I have a working build with a HUGE coil and it is using "work hardened" nickel from from Lightning Vapes. I am too new to NI to know if the work hardening is what is helping or it is just a fluke. Kind of fun & frustrating at the same time. (PS--My resistance now reads .28 but it is still working.)

One thing that is really weird is the over nic feeling I am getting at a lower wattage than usual. (The juice wouldn't even phase me with 30 watts on a 1 ohm kanthal coil but it feels like double the nic on the NI build.)

Or maybe I am just crazy!
 
The only coild ive made that does not hit temp control at 450 degrees is an insane dual 28gauge 14wrap 3mm at like .1 ohm... Something like that and it wasnt great but didnt hit temp control at 30 watts lol....
i mean i realy tried to not jump to conclusions but the main point that leads me to believe its my wirr is that my resistance is off... For example reads .13 ohm and with steam engine says .15 with coil specs.. Funy thing is if i put the atty on warm and it reads .15 then the TP is perfect lol... Same coil on 3 diff atty all same readings...
Does the tempered wire vape at say 450 degrees???
 
The Ni200 from lightning VAPES (30 and 28ga) are all I use for my builds, apart from my very recently acquired tempered 30ga from stealth vapes. I highly doubt the issue lies with the wire to be perfectly honest


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This is the text after the poster on reddit switched ni200
EDIT: For anyone who might find this thread, this issue seems to have been solved, at least in my case. The issue seems to have been caused by Lightning Vapes wire, which reads temp strangely. If you're using Lightning Vapes wire and are having issues with vapor production, try running a dry cotton scorch test to see what temp you can safely set at. My lightning Vapes coils were working well at around 550 degrees. Alternatively, replace your wire with another brand - Temco worked very well and gave me the vape I expected at 450 degrees. Happy vaping!!



I kno alot of people use LV and u dont hear of this issue alot... But there are def others... Maybe theres some fake LV going around just figured i would let people kno the trouble i am having and when i get new wire i will let u kno if its fixed or not.... I kno it sounds silly to blame wire but i mean i have tried everyyyyyythingggg!! I put in an ungodly amount of hours before this post lol
 
I have to try my wire on another dna 40... What other variable is there lol???... Consistantly low reading. Multiple atties and builds...connection secure and no hot spots... I should post a youtube video jsut to prove its not a nooby mistake but then again i would b very happy if it was! Everyone says how this dna 40 is foolproof loll and my dna 40 is set to 500degrees for a warm vape...

VERY frustrated!!!
 
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