DNA 40, NR, Nickel Builds

[Major911]

I too bounced back and forth between kanthal and nickel when I first started seeking the warm vape. After experimenting with various temps and wattages I've settled on nickel exclusively and find that the flavors of my juices taste exponentially better on nickel regardless of the warmth.

 

[qorax]

K4 TP / two tanks thru:

As much as it can be Cleaned

 

[FearTX]

Q did you just lighty brush the coil? dry fire? wut?

 

[qorax]

Q did you just lighty brush the coil? dry fire? wut?

Dry burn (in TP only), Alcohol bath, Scrubbing and then Soap wash.

Here's how I do it buddy: Post #2060: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...dna-40-nr-nickel-builds-206.html#post15350822

 

[AMDTrucking]

I saw some potential in this Erlkonigin like HuanYing tank. Potential for drilling that is. The stock airflow was too tight. The side four airholes were 1.0mm each, I drilled them 2.0mm each. The bore hole was 1.6mm, I drilled it 2.7mm. And the airtube had four 1.0mm holes on it's sides, I cut two long slots on both sides. Easy enough to do and in made a World of difference.
Woo-a-la:

Now it has nice enough air supply for nickel build. And no more Darth Vater breathing sound.

 

[rockk973]

Hey just a few questions finally got my dna 40 device . So totally new. I have ni200 30 gauge and 28 gauge. My device keeps on saying temperature protection after a few seconds is this normal ? Also I wrapped a 13 wrap on kayfun lite but not getting a lot of vapor like the videos I watched. I mostly use kayfun lites any advice would be great. Was going to try and twisted 30 and spaced coils tonight . Thanks

 

[rockk973]

Also how do you dry fire a ni200 wire ? Still trying to figure this stuff out. I am coming from dna 30 so it's seems different.

 

[Podunk Steam]

I triple twisted some 32 gauge Ni200 and found it to be pretty delicate but manageable. This coil is on a Ivogo Kayfun mini with the AFC screw removed, it's 9 wraps and was built on a 3/32" drill bit, it rings out at 0.13 ohm on both my tester and the DNA40.

I prepped the coil by heating it on a mechanical mod and pinching like any contact coil although I quenched the coil with cold tap water after each heating.

It's wicked with Cellucotton and I had to hold one side of the coil with a fingernail while pulling the Cellucotton through from the other.

I've been hitting the coil with about 22.5 watts in the 360F* to 440F* range and it's pretty awesome! I'm using a 50/50 DIY liquid and this is the same coil and wick after more than 100ml has gone through them. Only bad thing is the little bugger want to leak a few drops with every fill.

This same build is good on the Lemo too although not as dense a flavor producer and the electrical connections in the Lemo should be dealt with first. A milled down brass M3 standoff screw shortened to bottom out where the adjustable positive screw goes seems to be working for me.

The triple twisted 32 Ni200 works really well on genesis atomizers too. Pretty much rocks on the G-Pulse but nine to ten wraps is really needed which I found after this picture was taken.

 

[rockk973]

Thanks bro for all the pictures going to have to get some 32 . How do you get the coils to get red hot like the one picture?

 

[Podunk Steam]

No sweat.
Make sure you have batteries that can handle the load and a higher voltage drop/electrical resistance mechanical if you do it this way. I was just tapping the fire button and geting the picture was a bit of a trick.

I prepped the coil by heating it on a mechanical mod and pinching like any contact coil although I quenched the coil with cold tap water after each heating.

 

[rockk973]

I'm using Sony vtc5 so don't think it's a problem. When I put it on my dna 30 it says shorted or check atomizer.

 

[rockk973]

I'm using Sony vtc5 so don't think it's a problem. When I put it on my dna 30 it says shorted or check atomizer.

Dah dna 30 won't fire that low,answered my own question lol. So today burn the coil I should use a mechanical mod.

 

[Podunk Steam]

That's because the resistance of the coil is too low for the DNA 30.
If you're careful with the scissors and clip the wick just next to one side of the coil, hold the coil with a fingernail you can clean and rewick the coil too. I just did it for the first time. Be careful and use very short pulses on the mechanical mod.

 

[ThunderDan]

Dah dna 30 won't fire that low,answered my own question lol. So today burn the coil I should use a mechanical mod.

Did you drill out the kfl for more airflow? If not that could be part of the reason you are hitting TP so quickly. Stock kfl doesn't have much airflow at all.

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

 

[Podunk Steam]

The Ivogo Kayfun mini without the AFC screw does has better air flow than any other variation of the Kayfuns I have tried. I have many of the Kayfun variations too as well as a V4 and the mini has more air flow than the V4.

 

[jackmormon]

Do any of you experienced DNA40 users have any suggestions on which tanks are the most electrically stable/cooperative with a DNA40? (Not LEMO or SubTank.)

Looking for single coil and mouth to lung type airflow. (I use the medium setting on the SubTank about about 3/4 closed on a LEMO.)

It seems like electrical stability of the atomizer is my biggest challenge With the LEMO I have done all the tricks...stabilized the 510 with an o-ring, sanded to the bottom of the center post with a diamond file, flipped the center post washer/insulator so the center post extends a little further and makes solid contact with the base plate which doesn't screw in all the way with the insulator flipped.)

After more experimenting I can get rock solid builds consistently on drippers but I REALLY want to use a tank with my DNA40 but not finding a good fit so far.

(PS--Prefer single coil capable tanks that do no need to be modified to run in single coil mode.)

 

[Podunk Steam]

Maybe before you go and buy a new tank try the M3 threaded brass standoff screw like I've done. My Lemo has been stable since I've put the brass standoff screw in.
You aren't far from me, I'm in Idaho.
Edited for the picture.

 

[Pocha]

I've had good luck with my Erl Prinz and Erlkonigin clones.

 

[qorax]

Do any of you experienced DNA40 users have any suggestions on which tanks are the most electrically stable/cooperative with a DNA40? (Not LEMO or SubTank.)

Looking for single coil and mouth to lung type airflow. (I use the medium setting on the SubTank about about 3/4 closed on a LEMO.)

It seems like electrical stability of the atomizer is my biggest challenge With the LEMO I have done all the tricks...stabilized the 510 with an o-ring, sanded to the bottom of the center post with a diamond file, flipped the center post washer/insulator so the center post extends a little further and makes solid contact with the base plate which doesn't screw in all the way with the insulator flipped.)

After more experimenting I can get rock solid builds consistently on drippers but I REALLY want to use a tank with my DNA40 but not finding a good fit so far.

(PS--Prefer single coil capable tanks that do no need to be modified to run in single coil mode.)

I have many (RTAs) and found my Erlkonigin to be the most stable one for a Ni200 build.

 

[Podunk Steam]

Are you using a mod with a spring loaded 510 connector? What I've done with the M3 standoff is dependent on pressure from the connector because it makes the + pin in the Lemo a floating pin.