DNA 40, NR, Nickel Builds
- Thread starter Tbev
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
Great to see not everyone is having problems with TC 
I to an loving TC I have 4 bottom feeder atty's, a KF V4 & a Flashy Vapour V3 all working Great!
I have a combination of contact and spaced coils all with no problems, after the initial learning curve TC works Great!
For those out there having problems don't give up it's worth it when you get them working
I to an loving TC I have 4 bottom feeder atty's, a KF V4 & a Flashy Vapour V3 all working Great! I have a combination of contact and spaced coils all with no problems, after the initial learning curve TC works Great!
For those out there having problems don't give up it's worth it when you get them working
While I personally found the lemo to be the most stable platform, the ERLK is another one. Super tight connection and good tolerances.
Only issue would be the 510 is really recessed, but if you have a authentic it'll come with a tiny little spacer to help it stick out more.
Burping out loud using Tapatalk
Only issue would be the 510 is really recessed, but if you have a authentic it'll come with a tiny little spacer to help it stick out more.
Burping out loud using Tapatalk
I had to initially "fiddle" with my Lemos in order to improve the connectivity... my ohms were a bit jumpy when I first received them.
First off, I've never had an issue with the stock 510 positive pin (screw) and it works very well for me. It is inset a little bit on the bottom, but that hasn't caused any issues with either my Protovapor XPV mod or my VaporFlask.
That said, I believe my center post (in the bottom 510 / base) wasn't making a very solid connection with the deck's center post when screwing on the bottom base. To fix this, I did a few things:
Once all those steps were completed, perfect connection every time and this is my #1 tank, period. I have three.
First off, I've never had an issue with the stock 510 positive pin (screw) and it works very well for me. It is inset a little bit on the bottom, but that hasn't caused any issues with either my Protovapor XPV mod or my VaporFlask.
That said, I believe my center post (in the bottom 510 / base) wasn't making a very solid connection with the deck's center post when screwing on the bottom base. To fix this, I did a few things:
- Flip the plastic/round insulator that the upper center post (the one with the air flow control ring) goes through, one side has an indentation, the other side does not. Make sure the indentation is facing upwards, not downwards as it is stock. This will create more pressure on the upper/lower positive posts when screwing on the base.
- Make sure the upper post is tightly screwed in to the deck, it can be loose from the factory and can also work it's way free.
- On the bottom / 510 base section, take it apart (unscrew the 510 pin from the round metal block) and place a beefier O-ring on the post on the round metal block (inside section), replacing the stock white one. Tighten it down well. This will also help with creating a bit more pressure on the upper/lower positive connection.
Once all those steps were completed, perfect connection every time and this is my #1 tank, period. I have three.
Kiwi,
Where did you get the one with the extra spacer.
Also the last Lemo I bought the center 510 pin did protrude a little and I didn't need to modify it at all. It also has a thicker wall on the base cap about 3 times thinker than the original I had. The thicker wall doesn't seem to have any purpose but it does help I identify what I believe is a newer release.
@ anyone, do you know why the Lemo is becoming so hard to find. Even Fasttech had one but the said in the small print it was the last one in stock.
Kiwi,
Where did you get the one with the extra spacer.
Also the last Lemo I bought the center 510 pin did protrude a little and I didn't need to modify it at all. It also has a thicker wall on the base cap about 3 times thinker than the original I had. The thicker wall doesn't seem to have any purpose but it does help I identify what I believe is a newer release.
@ anyone, do you know why the Lemo is becoming so hard to find. Even Fasttech had one but the said in the small print it was the last one in stock.
Oh it was an authentic erlk I got straight from the website. It was kinda just. Taped to the box lol. I don't have it anymore tho.
As for the lemo, maybe eleaf finally decided to change that? I haven't bought a new one in a long long time [emoji51] in fact I haven't bought any new toppers in a long time. Can't seem to find anything that tickles my fancy.
Burping out loud using Tapatalk
Thanks Kiwi,
Sorry I got confused which one you were referencing... but just to be clear the first Lemo I purchased had the recessed 510 pin (fixed with o-ring) the second one the 510 pin extended beyond the 510 threads ay about a thirty second of an inch not much but enough that I didn't have to do anything with it except use it with Ni200 and it worked fine/stable from day on.
PS - I believe the slight extension of the 510 pin was factory intended and not just luck of the draw.
I just spun off a screw on the lathe for him. It slightly extends the + contact in the connector of the Lemo and makes it floating. He's only a state away from me so it shouldn't take long to get to him.
Last edited:
Thanks Kiwi,
Sorry I got confused which one you were referencing... but just to be clear the first Lemo I purchased had the recessed 510 pin (fixed with o-ring) the second one the 510 pin extended beyond the 510 threads ay about a thirty second of an inch not much but enough that I didn't have to do anything with it except use it with Ni200 and it worked fine/stable from day on.
PS - I believe the slight extension of the 510 pin was factory intended and not just luck of the draw.
Haha yeap I understood that
I sure hope it's an intended and deliberate design. I've found the lemo to be nothing short of spectacular for Ni200 use, and it's always a bummer to see someone with a unit that has issues Soecifically with the 510.
Burping out loud using Tapatalk
Haha yeap I understood that
I sure hope it's an intended and deliberate design. I've found the lemo to be nothing short of spectacular for Ni200 use, and it's always a bummer to see someone with a unit that has issues Soecifically with the 510.
Burping out loud using Tapatalk
Joining the Lemo chorus. After adding a "spacer" from a Nautilus head my Lemo has been flawless. (See below)
To answer your question directly, I find the Kayfun 4, with or without the S4 Kit to also be flawless in term of electrical connectivity. (Running two of 'em. Had to fiddle a bit with part #10 and adjust the 510 to my liking, those a piece of cake...trivial fixes.) So much that until last night I put the Lemo aside.
Big discovery last night.
Have an eliquid that delivered both of the main flavors only in drippers. Loaded that liquid into the Lemo, cranked the wattage to 28, and opened the airflow wide, and it's Heavenly for this eliquid.
Hope the fix you have coming (from the next State over) solves the Lemo for you...
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I just spun off a screw on the lathe for him. It slightly extends the + contact in the connector of the Lemo and makes it floating. He's only a state away from me so it shouldn't take long to get to him.
Thanks Podunk Steam!! Looking forward to it. My Lemo has actually been steady for a couple of hours. It has been stable in the past so I am not going to delude myself into thinking I have it figured out. What I did was loosen the 510 pin, attach the base as tight as it would go, and then tightened up the 510 pin. Time will tell
One of the Lemos I have can be tightened enough to be electrically stable and the other just wouldn't cooperate.
Getting them too tight I find to be a bother because I tighten the base on the mod tightly (I use only spring loaded 510 connectors in my mods) and just pull the upper section for liquid fills which makes for one less step in the filling process.
I also use the silicone plug for the fill hole and a needle tip bottle so there's no need for tools anymore. I don't use mods that need tools for battery changes anymore either.
This should cure your Lemo blues.
Getting them too tight I find to be a bother because I tighten the base on the mod tightly (I use only spring loaded 510 connectors in my mods) and just pull the upper section for liquid fills which makes for one less step in the filling process.
I also use the silicone plug for the fill hole and a needle tip bottle so there's no need for tools anymore. I don't use mods that need tools for battery changes anymore either.
This should cure your Lemo blues.
@ anyone, do you know why the Lemo is becoming so hard to find. Even Fasttech had one but the said in the small print it was the last one in stock.
They are in stock here:
REBULIDABLE ATOMIZER
use code "pegasus" for 8% off
Just got my first DNA 40, Hana V4s.
I bought a spool of 28g ni200 wire but I used 32g (I guess) that came in the Hana box, 10 spaced wraps in KFL+ 2 airholes.
At first I think I got the 0.42 ohms, but that was after I dry-fired it, so I let it sit for a good 10 mins, got 0.25 ohms, this times I hit TP really fast (about after 4 seconds firing).
Screw atty off and let it sit for some time, this time I got 0.36 ohms, vapor and flavor were so good at 13 watts, temps were floating around 300-350F.
I don't really understand why 0.25 ohms hit TP very fast but 0.36 ohms never hit TP, as I understand if the base resistance (when I tell it is the new coil) is higher, DNA 40 chip will put more voltage to get the same wattage (and apparently hit TP faster), but in my case it is the opposite way.
Anyway that's fine for me, at least I could get it 'quite OK' for the first attempt.I'll fiddling with again it when I need to rewick next time.
ps. all information above comes from the same first coil of ni200
ps2. sorry for bad English, I don't know how to explain it accurately
EDIT: after REALLY let the atty to cool down as a room temp I get the 0.2x ohms and same problem kicks in again, TP hit at 3-4 seconds, I guess it's the time to recoil with 28g that I bought.
EDIT #2: I discovered why the temp readings are different every time even the coil is cool.... I did not screw the atty tight enough! now it comes at 0.33 ohms, exactly the number I get from steam-engine at 32g ni200 10 wraps
I bought a spool of 28g ni200 wire but I used 32g (I guess) that came in the Hana box, 10 spaced wraps in KFL+ 2 airholes.
At first I think I got the 0.42 ohms, but that was after I dry-fired it, so I let it sit for a good 10 mins, got 0.25 ohms, this times I hit TP really fast (about after 4 seconds firing).
Screw atty off and let it sit for some time, this time I got 0.36 ohms, vapor and flavor were so good at 13 watts, temps were floating around 300-350F.
I don't really understand why 0.25 ohms hit TP very fast but 0.36 ohms never hit TP, as I understand if the base resistance (when I tell it is the new coil) is higher, DNA 40 chip will put more voltage to get the same wattage (and apparently hit TP faster), but in my case it is the opposite way.
Anyway that's fine for me, at least I could get it 'quite OK' for the first attempt.I'll fiddling with again it when I need to rewick next time.
ps. all information above comes from the same first coil of ni200
ps2. sorry for bad English, I don't know how to explain it accurately
EDIT: after REALLY let the atty to cool down as a room temp I get the 0.2x ohms and same problem kicks in again, TP hit at 3-4 seconds, I guess it's the time to recoil with 28g that I bought.
EDIT #2: I discovered why the temp readings are different every time even the coil is cool.... I did not screw the atty tight enough! now it comes at 0.33 ohms, exactly the number I get from steam-engine at 32g ni200 10 wraps
Last edited:
Do any of you experienced DNA40 users have any suggestions on which tanks are the most electrically stable/cooperative with a DNA40? (Not LEMO or SubTank.)
Looking for single coil and mouth to lung type airflow. (I use the medium setting on the SubTank about about 3/4 closed on a LEMO.)
It seems like electrical stability of the atomizer is my biggest challenge
After more experimenting I can get rock solid builds consistently on drippers but I REALLY want to use a tank with my DNA40 but not finding a good fit so far.
(PS--Prefer single coil capable tanks that do no need to be modified to run in single coil mode.)
I started using my first run rDNA40 with a GG Tilemahos with the air flow control base. The Tilemahos always worked perfectly with Ni200 builds so I ordered a second to use with a first run large screen/zip charge rDNA40. Both Tilemahos tanks continue to work perfectly for me and are very easy to build.
I don't have a Lemo but I have had no issues with my Subtank Mini/Vaporshark Ni200 heads/rDNA40. I've been using the Subtank with Ni200 to see if it would be something that would work for my daughter and sister who don't build so I haven't bothered with using the build deck yet. What is that you don't like about your Subtank?
Gonna have to give building a Nickel build on the Veritas a break. Giving me fits. Built a dual coil on the wife's hobo and it's been solid for a week
I've been doing Titanium coils on the Veritas for almost a month now. Running a single coil, of course. Best vape I've ever had.
Last edited:
what kind of issues were you having on the veritas if I may ask?
My builds on the Veritas hit TC quickly. Figure hot spot/s but can't seem to find them. Tried NI 30awg, twisted 30 awg, twisted ni/kanthal, vertical, horizontal, builds ranged between .13 and .3 ohms depending on the coil experiment, haven't got it right yet. Resistance was stable on each build. Switched back to plain kanthal so I can get a good vape and do more research.
- Status
