DNA 40, NR, Nickel Builds
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So I just tried my first twisted kanthal coil and I'm a big fan now.
Want to try some twisted nickel builds on the Lemo when it comes in, what gauge nickel wire are people using for twisted builds that gives you around .15-.19 Ohm? Ideally wrapping around a 3.5mm ID.
Edit: Read through bunch of posts of people using twisted nickel builds and seems 30gauge seems popular. 10 wraps around a 3mm ID gives 1.5 Ohms according to a post. God the wait is killing me.
Want to try some twisted nickel builds on the Lemo when it comes in, what gauge nickel wire are people using for twisted builds that gives you around .15-.19 Ohm? Ideally wrapping around a 3.5mm ID.
Edit: Read through bunch of posts of people using twisted nickel builds and seems 30gauge seems popular. 10 wraps around a 3mm ID gives 1.5 Ohms according to a post. God the wait is killing me.
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Hey I figured this might be a good place to ask. I am not a dripper but I play one on TV. No I'm thinking of getting one Busardo says the Tugboat works pretty good with nickel although like me hes not a fan RIP likes the Hobo. I am not really a clone person and the hobo is a little more money but I wanted to get one to taste flavors for making juice and thought I might as well get one that might work with nickel too. That would be great for a change. So what have you guys had the best luck with. I have heard that drippers work better then tanks on nickel. I have given up on nickel with tanks but would like to give it a try on a dripper.
I imagine you guys have seen Busardo's review of the DNA40 which I'm sure was hard for him to do because I am pretty sure he is a pretty close friend of Brandon of Evolv. What did you think? My self I agree completely but thats just me. If you have the patience and the know how I think that is great. I don't.
A reasonable priced original and great performance (I am told)
Holmes RDA $32.99 - VividSmoke.com
Much like the Magma which I really like, but probably a better design.
The Holmes looks good but unlike the Magma it uses o-rings. I don't mind unscrewing the Magma for most refills though, and it's possible to refill Magmas via the drip tip hole also.
So I'm sticking with my modified Magma clones.
What I have done to the Magma to make it more Ni200-friendly:
1. Placed a slightly reduced diameter (Dremel sanded it) AWG 10 copper wire down the threaded post holes and drilled out the wire holes, leaving the hollow post up to the wire holes full of copper. The drill can also de burr sharp edges inside the wire holes. Use an inch or two of AWG 10 wire so you can pull out the unused part after drilling. I drilled by hand using a hand chuck.
2. Use SS 3mm flat (not cupped or pointed) set screws.
This gives me better contact since the Ni200 is pinched between two flat surfaces.
Well finally getting a build that is pretty good on my kayfun lite. Like people said this is very different then kanthal has its positives and negatives. I've built many coils this weekend and came to realize spaced coils are the key for good flavor and flavor. What I did was twisted 2 pieces of 30 then wrapped a spaced coil at 6 wraps. Came out to .10 at 15 watts 470 deg and have to say it's a nice vape Lots of flavor and great vapor.
How close did you position your coils? I do 7 wraps around a 7/64th bit, horizontal and very close to the airhole. No problems with hitting TP at all. Comes out to .12 ohms. My only issue is that the ohms are not what coil calculators are telling me. I'm guessing since I have an Ehpro clone, the positive post isn't very conductive. I've tried to find a replacement screw with no luck. Vapes like a champ so I don't really mind too much.
Here's a picture of how close my coils are to the airhole.
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I made a 10 spaced wraps 28g around 3mm ID, at first the initial resistance was 0.16 ohms, but when I let it sit for a long time it shows that the resistance is 0.23, and staying this resistance forever. Did I do something wrong? I wrapped the wire really tight around the KFL+ screw and it always has the same problem since day 2 (now it is day 6)
No, Lightning Vapes NI is sourced from China, according to Lightning Vapes.
Apollo Temperature Protected
Build pictures, description and thoughts here (post #50): http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/rda/630829-apollo-rda-pictorial-5.html#post15427894
Build pictures, description and thoughts here (post #50): http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/rda/630829-apollo-rda-pictorial-5.html#post15427894
Do any of you experienced DNA40 users have any suggestions on which tanks are the most electrically stable/cooperative with a DNA40? (Not LEMO or SubTank.)
Looking for single coil and mouth to lung type airflow. (I use the medium setting on the SubTank about about 3/4 closed on a LEMO.)
It seems like electrical stability of the atomizer is my biggest challengeWith the LEMO I have done all the tricks...stabilized the 510 with an o-ring, sanded to the bottom of the center post with a diamond file, flipped the center post washer/insulator so the center post extends a little further and makes solid contact with the base plate which doesn't screw in all the way with the insulator flipped.)
After more experimenting I can get rock solid builds consistently on drippers but I REALLY want to use a tank with my DNA40 but not finding a good fit so far.
(PS--Prefer single coil capable tanks that do no need to be modified to run in single coil mode.)
Kanger sub tanks forever (mini is the best in my opinion), was so satisfied with the first, got another! Of course I've got 2 DNA 40's too
Warning, did have one time that the no atomizer flag came on, all I had to do was screw in the rebuildable unit into the base a little harder.
The nickel wire holding screws are a dream, you just lay the wire beside the screw, then tighten, no wrapping the wire, nadda.
Trolls are a cheap and great dripper for flavor and inexpensive (think I said that already). I use 28g nickel, the 4 hole posts are nice, BUT you gotta be easy on the torque when using the holes.
I agree 100% legs, when I first looked at getting my first DNA 40, I read THIS forum top to bottom. Lot's of trials with the wonky boards at first, then coil management (right resistance, right contact, right amount of cotton stuffing). But having an electronics background helped, I can hold a soldering iron with the best of them
.Then I played with twisted kanthal/nickel, developed charts, and FINALLY tossed it all away. 28g nickel is my main wrap now, 3mm ID, 7-13 wraps. Just as long as I keep an eye on the screw torque, I'm fine. Love-it-to-death the capture method on the Kanger sub-tanks, just lay it down and tighten.
So again, I'm right there with you Leg's, the DNA 40 is a hard learn, BUT THIS FORUM, is the answer and I'm very grateful for each and every one. Your wisdom made my journey a success.
Thanks again all and God bless
I agree 100% legs, when I first looked at getting my first DNA 40, I read THIS forum top to bottom. Lot's of trials with the wonky boards at first, then coil management (right resistance, right contact, right amount of cotton stuffing). But having an electronics background helped, I can hold a soldering iron with the best of them
Then I played with twisted kanthal/nickel, developed charts, and FINALLY tossed it all away. 28g nickel is my main wrap now, 3mm ID, 7-13 wraps. Just as long as I keep an eye on the screw torque, I'm fine. Love-it-to-death the capture method on the Kanger sub-tanks, just lay it down and tighten.
So again, I'm right there with you Leg's, the DNA 40 is a hard learn, BUT THIS FORUM, is the answer and I'm very grateful for each and every one. Your wisdom made my journey a success.
Thanks again all and God bless
Could you post some of those charts? Are you talking about 28g ni200 and 28g kanthal twisted?
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http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...al-correcting-dna-40-temperature-setting.html
Go to the last entries for the google link to my spreadsheet.
Go to the last entries for the google link to my spreadsheet.
GP Spheroid TPed√
Build pictures here (post #459): http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...icial-thread-gp-spheroid-46.html#post15441553
Build pictures here (post #459): http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...icial-thread-gp-spheroid-46.html#post15441553
Just found this video https://youtu.be/NUEjyY55I3s and I must admit the idea seems interesting.
Anybody did try this technique?
Apart from the guy probably staying too high on his temps (IMO), I must admit I'm intrigued by the potentiality of this method in making the build really easy and probably reopening the games for the 30gauges and greater.
Any ideas about how/if the hollow-ness of the wick is going to work against or in favor? How do you think it wold adapt to rayon?
Yeah, I should just try, and I will do, but I have too many days in front of me before I'll be at home at my rebuilding desk, so I was just curious to get some ideas running.
Anybody did try this technique?
Apart from the guy probably staying too high on his temps (IMO), I must admit I'm intrigued by the potentiality of this method in making the build really easy and probably reopening the games for the 30gauges and greater.
Any ideas about how/if the hollow-ness of the wick is going to work against or in favor? How do you think it wold adapt to rayon?
Yeah, I should just try, and I will do, but I have too many days in front of me before I'll be at home at my rebuilding desk, so I was just curious to get some ideas running.
ndb,
I use that method exclusively on my Gennies (vertical Kanthal wicks) and it always performed well for me. Now I am not quite sure why I never thought to use it for nickel builds. After watching the Video I am kicking myself for not having tried it.
Also he mentioned that the hollow seemed to improve his wicking I know for a fact that my hollow Gennie wicks performed better.
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