Has anyone tried this while leaving a coil-length ceramic rod inside? I'm guessing there may be some advantage in having the wick sandwiched between the ceramic core and the wire.
DNA 40, NR, Nickel Builds
- Thread starter Tbev
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I can't see this working with rayon. Maybe without a helper it will work just like it used to work on silica as long as you hold the fibers tight.
Regards
Tony
Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.
Regards
Tony
Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.
I can't load that video for some reason. Anyone have another link?
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nevermind, got it to work on my computer, my phone was just being a piece of icrap
If this is total nube post I apologize but wanted to share whats working for me. Been playing around with the dna 40 for a few days now. Best thing I've got so far is 28g 25 wraps touching around a 3mm screwdriver dual coils in my mutation v3. shes sitting at a perfect .14. Been using it for a couple days and have had no issues other then fogging up my room, and the flavor is fantastic! Just have to fandangle the inside leg over half the coil to get her in the build deck if that makes any sense. Have pics if anyone is interested.
25 wraps? Jeez. I get that resistance with 10 spaced wraps. Congrats you were able to fit that many wraps in your atty.
Regards
Tony
Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.
Regards
Tony
Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.
GP Spheroid TPed√
Build pictures here (post #459): http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...icial-thread-gp-spheroid-46.html#post15441553
This looks very familiar. Here is a link CALIX RBA - By Leo This is to the Apollo not the one pictured sorry go the wrong one to quote.
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It is same place looked at the tank on here this is where it is from. Got the wrong one the Apollo. I looked at the tank they came out with. Pretty interesting stuff.
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lol yeah I know it wasn't necessary but after seeing so many reviews saying you have to space them for everything to work right my reaction was. "Hmm... challenge excepted"
Well, to have such a low resistance, half of them are probably shorting between each other but as long as it's heating uniformly and resistance isn't changing, why not?
Regards
Tony
Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.
2legs. I watched the PBusardo review. And agreed with a good bit of it. I spent a great deal of time with multiple attys and dna 40's to get mine to perform
Correctly
On thing I will say. I don't think the build
Of the devices was at the right standard for this chip. Just like the arty has to have a stable build. The board itself needs to be wired very stable and the 510 needs to be sound. Which in the end means the mod itself needs an upgrade. And I do mean a major upgrade. I don't know if anyone has taken their shark or hana apart. But I have. And they are sloppy builds. No offense to the manufacturer. It is what it is HCigar has a new box coming out. Called the heartbeat, It has an authentic evolv 40 board and costs less than 100$. And when I was watching todds review on the box and he took it apart. The insides looked better than all the 200$ devices I have looked at. Also. Yihi is dropping temp control in a few devices. Including their ipv 4. And the sx mini. So it will be interesting to see their take on temp control. And maybe how they address the issues at hand at well. I do know that temp
Control is coming. In a major way. Just time to see some more quality parts and labor being put into the devices And toppers.
Just my 2 cents
Correctly
On thing I will say. I don't think the build
Of the devices was at the right standard for this chip. Just like the arty has to have a stable build. The board itself needs to be wired very stable and the 510 needs to be sound. Which in the end means the mod itself needs an upgrade. And I do mean a major upgrade. I don't know if anyone has taken their shark or hana apart. But I have. And they are sloppy builds. No offense to the manufacturer. It is what it is HCigar has a new box coming out. Called the heartbeat, It has an authentic evolv 40 board and costs less than 100$. And when I was watching todds review on the box and he took it apart. The insides looked better than all the 200$ devices I have looked at. Also. Yihi is dropping temp control in a few devices. Including their ipv 4. And the sx mini. So it will be interesting to see their take on temp control. And maybe how they address the issues at hand at well. I do know that temp
Control is coming. In a major way. Just time to see some more quality parts and labor being put into the devices And toppers.
Just my 2 cents
This is what the VS rDNA40 looks like inside. I would not consider this sloppy at all.
Edit: that is actually a picture of the rDNA30, but I would be willing to bet the 40 looks very similar. VS has long been known for the very clean internal build.
Below is a comparison to an Hcigar mini 30 (basically a rDNA30 clone) released not that long ago.
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I own the shark 40. And took it apart last week. And in comparison to some of the boxes I have seen built. It's sloppy. In the same respect. They cram a to. Of stuff in a small enclosure. What I am saying tho is this. The chips need a solid water tight enclosure. Any juice on any of your buttons. Or charging port and it bugs the board out. Has a lot to do with a lot of the issues that have been popping up. Just not the chip. As people are screaming that evolv is to blame. Not saying they didn't release a beta chip on the public without making us aware.
And yes. My 30's were real clean. In comparison to my 40's. From hana and vaporshark
Because the board design is different. If you watch todds review of the new hcigar heartbeat. And watch him take it a part. You will see. The major difference between your box there and what they are building now. The build quality has to be raised up. It just has to come up When we start adding temp control, battery IQ, atomizer readings and such. The build
Design and stability of the chip set has to be bullet proof. The readings are too in depth and meant to be too accurate for anything short of solid housing.
Just saying.
And yes. My 30's were real clean. In comparison to my 40's. From hana and vaporshark
Because the board design is different. If you watch todds review of the new hcigar heartbeat. And watch him take it a part. You will see. The major difference between your box there and what they are building now. The build quality has to be raised up. It just has to come up When we start adding temp control, battery IQ, atomizer readings and such. The build
Design and stability of the chip set has to be bullet proof. The readings are too in depth and meant to be too accurate for anything short of solid housing.
Just saying.
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I can't wait to see a review on the SXmini M class and see if it works better.
Yea I am right here with you on that. And the same chip is now going to be put in the IPv4 as well. So maybe 100 watt device with temp control. But reading and watching Phil. I agree with so many things that was said Like the mod either running watts or temp. It will be interesting to see YiHi's take on the technology. And if they are taking interest In our ,the people currently trying the temp or beta testers lol, opinion to heart
And another thing. I have the tugboat. And it was my first build with temp
Yea I am right here with you on that. And the same chip is now going to be put in the IPv4 as well. So maybe 100 watt device with temp control. But reading and watching Phil. I agree with so many things that was said Like the mod either running watts or temp. It will be interesting to see YiHi's take on the technology. And if they are taking interest In our ,the people currently trying the temp or beta testers lol, opinion to heart
And another thing. I have the tugboat. And it was my first build with temp. And it has worked flawlessly. Lol
It won't be the same board. SX Mini M class uses SX350J, the ipv4 will use the SX330 V4S.
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Just because it looks good doesn't mean it's correct
The first run HCigar mods are not wired properly and are using the aluminum chassis as ground, all through the negative/510 pad, which is causing "weak battery" messages, among other things. Too much current through the single pad. Hopefully they get it right in follow-up production runs. I halfway fixed mine by wiring the negative battery connection directly to the proper negative pad on the board. Ideally the 510 connector would have one going to the upper negative pad, but haven't gotten that far yet ... wanting to also replace the 510 completely as the spring-loaded 510 pin (solder joint and all) spins when you screw on an atty. You get what you pay for, I suppose.
Yea. Figured as much. What to expect from a 100$ mid that has a 60$ board from the jump. Thank you for the run down As rough as I am on my hardware. Fixing and strengthening is just part of the gig for me. Only mod I have never had to doctor has been my provaris. Still amazed how they are selling an authentic evolv 40 for less than a 100$. And I reckon you hit it. Not saying they did not send a better version to Todd's review knowing he will make a video on it.
And thank you for the clarification on the board. I only recently noticed they marked the IPv4 to have temperature control. To be used with nickel and titanium builds. I am stoked to see the temp control catch on. I enjoy it a lot in my RTA's when it is working correctly. Which has been pretty good for me overall
Thank you again. And agree with a previous poster. This thread helped educate me a lot to take the guess work
Out of building using my temp control. So major props to everyone that contributes and has contributed here.
And thank you for the clarification on the board. I only recently noticed they marked the IPv4 to have temperature control. To be used with nickel and titanium builds. I am stoked to see the temp control catch on. I enjoy it a lot in my RTA's when it is working correctly. Which has been pretty good for me overall
Thank you again. And agree with a previous poster. This thread helped educate me a lot to take the guess work
Out of building using my temp control. So major props to everyone that contributes and has contributed here.
So. Popping in. Here's a build that I've run approx 100 mls, and maybe 5 to 6 rewick. Sharing this because I've been dry burning my coils to clean it. Resistance and performance has been holding up so far
The wire has definitely gotten a ton more malleable, and requires me using a tiny flat head screw driver to reestablish the spacing after i rewick
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The wire has definitely gotten a ton more malleable, and requires me using a tiny flat head screw driver to reestablish the spacing after i rewick
Burping out loud using Tapatalk
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