DNA 40, NR, Nickel Builds

[Insomaniac10]

I've been experiencing some odd behavior for the day. To start, I will mention that I've been using a new rda (Hobo v2.1 clone), which I received on Monday - so automatically I'm going to assume that the source of my issues lie somewhere in there.

I built a new coil Monday evening, had been performing fine up until last night around dinner time. All of a sudden I noticed that when I pressed the fire button to take a hit, the first half second of the hit was very warm and noticeably harsher. I checked my screen when pressing the power button, and sure enough, it was jumping up to 40watts briefly before jumping back down to my designated settings (16w, 410dgs). I realize that the chip jumps up everytime you fire, but it has never been that high for me.

I figured maybe there was a short, or possibly a connection issue, so I took off my rda cap and fiddled around with my coil to make sure everything was in order. Sure enough, I broke the coil while fiddling. So I made a new coil last night, which performed great, and then went to bed. Low and behold, on my way to work this morning, it started jumping up to 40watts again. I also noticed that my resistance was reading .37 ohms, as opposed to the .27ohms it said originally. I took my cap off and started fiddling with a paper clip. When I was done fiddling, it wouldnt fire and my screen said "check atomizer". At that point, I panicked because I thought I had broke my coil again, and wasn't going to have any nicotine for the next 8 hours!!!! By the grace of whatever, I pulled/replaced my battery, and it picked up the coil again. (at some point during this whole ordeal, either after fiddling or pulling the battery, I was prompted for "new coil/", and I said yes). Not only that, but it seems to be firing/warming up properly now (only jumping up to 26w instead of friggin 40w).

Does anyone know what could be causing these issues? I highly doubt this is the last time I will experience this. I would also like to note that both times the 40w issue began, I have noticed some screen-scrambling as well.

 

[Dobo]

I had the same issues with my Lemo and it was a connection issue with 510 pin.

 

[Insomaniac10]

I had the same issues with my Lemo and it was a connection issue with 510 pin.

I'm assuming you mean it wasn't making sufficient contact? I'm running a Vaporshark, which has a spring loaded 510 pin, so I certainly hope that is not the issue!

 

[RandyF]

I own the shark 40. And took it apart last week. And in comparison to some of the boxes I have seen built. It's sloppy. In the same respect. They cram a to. Of stuff in a small enclosure. What I am saying tho is this. The chips need a solid water tight enclosure. Any juice on any of your buttons. Or charging port and it bugs the board out. Has a lot to do with a lot of the issues that have been popping up. Just not the chip. As people are screaming that evolv is to blame. Not saying they didn't release a beta chip on the public without making us aware.
And yes. My 30's were real clean. In comparison to my 40's. From hana and vaporshark
Because the board design is different. If you watch todds review of the new hcigar heartbeat. And watch him take it a part. You will see. The major difference between your box there and what they are building now. The build quality has to be raised up. It just has to come up When we start adding temp control, battery IQ, atomizer readings and such. The build
Design and stability of the chip set has to be bullet proof. The readings are too in depth and meant to be too accurate for anything short of solid housing.

Just saying.

Here is a screen shot (source) of two different versions of the rDNA40. If this is your idea of sloppy, then you have some very high standards.





The screen scrambling is a known bug that has been acknowledged by Evolv, I have not seen one report of issues being caused by juice leakage, at least with the Vapor Sharks.

 

[MidwestGuy]

+1 on what Dobo says, this is exactly what happens on all of my atomizers if there is a connection issue, or something is loose. Make sure that everything "up" from the 510 on the mod up to the connector in the RDA is tight and making a solid connection. Also make sure all contact points from the bottom up are clean and dry.

My standard build comes out at .20ohms on my Lemo every time. Every once in awhile, if I have a bad connection or haven't tightened everything up, the resistance will read .24 or higher. When this happens, I know there is a connection issue, and I've found and corrected said connection issue every time and my resistance returns promptly to the "normal" .20ohms.

I cannot over-emphasize the importance of super solid connections when working with anything temperature protection/Ni200 related. And honestly, some atomizers with weak internal connections or poor conductive materials just plain don't work.

 

[Dobo]

I'm also rocking Lemo on VS rDNA40. The pin itself wasn't making good contact with base section, required adding of o-ring and a very tight screwing. BTW, my rDNA doesn't like Delta II tank at all, notwithstanding the spring loaded 510 pin.

I assume tightening everything on your atty would help things.

I'm assuming you mean it wasn't making sufficient contact? I'm running a Vaporshark, which has a spring loaded 510 pin, so I certainly hope that is not the issue!

 

[Insomaniac10]

Thank you for the advice. What is the best way for me to troubleshoot the 510 connection? Also, if it is indeed a poor connections somewhere, how would pulling/replacing the battery fix the issue?

 

[Dobo]

Please follow MidwestGuy's advise:

Make sure that everything "up" from the 510 on the mod up to the connector in the RDA is tight and making a solid connection. Also make sure all contact points from the bottom up are clean and dry.

Thank you for the advice. What is the best way for me to troubleshoot the 510 connection? Also, if it is indeed a poor connections somewhere, how would pulling/replacing the battery fix the issue?

 

[RandyF]

I've been experiencing some odd behavior for the day. To start, I will mention that I've been using a new RDA (Hobo v2.1 clone), which I received on Monday - so automatically I'm going to assume that the source of my issues lie somewhere in there.

I built a new coil Monday evening, had been performing fine up until last night around dinner time. All of a sudden I noticed that when I pressed the fire button to take a hit, the first half second of the hit was very warm and noticeably harsher. I checked my screen when pressing the power button, and sure enough, it was jumping up to 40watts briefly before jumping back down to my designated settings (16w, 410dgs). I realize that the chip jumps up everytime you fire, but it has never been that high for me.

I figured maybe there was a short, or possibly a connection issue, so I took off my RDA cap and fiddled around with my coil to make sure everything was in order. Sure enough, I broke the coil while fiddling. So I made a new coil last night, which performed great, and then went to bed. Low and behold, on my way to work this morning, it started jumping up to 40watts again. I also noticed that my resistance was reading .37 ohms, as opposed to the .27ohms it said originally. I took my cap off and started fiddling with a paper clip. When I was done fiddling, it wouldnt fire and my screen said "check atomizer". At that point, I panicked because I thought I had broke my coil again, and wasn't going to have any nicotine for the next 8 hours!!!! By the grace of whatever, I pulled/replaced my battery, and it picked up the coil again. (at some point during this whole ordeal, either after fiddling or pulling the battery, I was prompted for "new coil/", and I said yes). Not only that, but it seems to be firing/warming up properly now (only jumping up to 26w instead of friggin 40w).

Does anyone know what could be causing these issues? I highly doubt this is the last time I will experience this. I would also like to note that both times the 40w issue began, I have noticed some screen-scrambling as well.

It is jumping that high because your resistance reading is much higher than it should be, so the board thinks it really needs to send a ton of power to the coil to preheat. Like you said, when the resistance settles back down, it won't send all that power. .27Ω even sounds high, I assume to achieve that you are using at least 30g and that Hobo only has post hole options, which is not the best option for 30g nickel. It is almost certainly a connection issue.

Anytime I am using a nickel build, I ALWAYS have my DNA30/STn with me as a backup. Even seemingly great nickel builds can go south in a hurry, so always have another option just in case.

 

[Major911]

I'm assuming you mean it wasn't making sufficient contact? I'm running a Vaporshark, which has a spring loaded 510 pin, so I certainly hope that is not the issue!

Even though you are using the VS with an excellent spring loaded 510, certain atty's 510 pin makes poor connection i.e.... the sub tanks gave me fits on my shark. I was able to solve my 510 issues with an add on AFC 510 adapter. Other people have found various fixes but the bottom line is it may not be the shark's 510 thats giving you problems.

 

[Insomaniac10]

It is jumping that high because your resistance reading is much higher than it should be, so the board thinks it really needs to send a ton of power to the coil to preheat. Like you said, when the resistance settles back down, it won't send all that power. .27Ω even sounds high, I assume to achieve that you are using at least 30g and that Hobo only has post hole options, which is not the best option for 30g nickel. It is almost certainly a connection issue.

Anytime I am using a nickel build, I ALWAYS have my DNA30/STn with me as a backup. Even seemingly great nickel builds can go south in a hurry, so always have another option just in case.

I know what you're saying. The nickel is definitely the biggest issue with the DNA40 so far. My biggest obstacle I've come across is breaking my leads when tightening my screws. I had to ditch my Dark Horse (I dont miss the condensation leaking!) because the positive post would break the wire every single time, even if I doubled up. I also couldn't do the trap method, because then my legs would be long and distorted if I wanted my coil to line up with the air holes (which led to hot spot city).

So far I like the Hobo better for various reasons (especially less leaking, more pocket friendly), although it is much more compact, and less room to work with in order to not have your coil touching anything.

Please follow MidwestGuy's advise

Right, but I don't know the best way to tell if my RDA and mod are connecting nicely at the 510 pin.

 

[Podunk Steam]

Both the Subtank and the Lemo have a similar interior electrical connection point.
My Subtank was driving me nuts using temp control as well as one of my Lemos, unstable ohms resistance readings with the Lemo and check atomizer messages with the Subtank.
The Subtank turned out to be the brass spring loaded pin wasn't making good connection to the interior contact point. It still has to be temp control tested but I swapped out insulator in the 510 of the Subtank and it seems to have made a difference as I'm not getting the "check atomizer" messages now.

The Lemo needed a more stable connection at its adjustable screw in its 510 so I made screw that bottoms out and doesn't just spin while being screwed into a connector. This has been tested on TC and has fixed my Lemo I was having issues with.

 

[RandyF]

The main problem with the ST series is the 510 pin floats in the insulator, so if you have a "soft" floating 510 pin in your mod (like the rDNA40) then it may not push the floating 510 pin in the ST up with enough pressure to make contact with the RBA or OCC on the top end of the 510 pin.

This isn't really relevant to this thread, but on the subject of the floating 510 in the ST's, this makes them very dangerous for hybrid mech mods. Since they may appear to protrude enough to be okay for hybrids people will use them together, but the insulators are pliable and the pin can be pushed up into it, which would allow the battery to make contact with the threads. Just something to keep in mind.

 

[peraspera]

The main problem with the ST series is the 510 pin floats in the insulator, so if you have a "soft" floating 510 pin in your mod (like the rDNA40) then it may not push the floating 510 pin in the ST up with enough pressure to make contact with the RBA or OCC on the top end of the 510 pin.

This isn't really relevant to this thread, but on the subject of the floating 510 in the ST's, this makes them very dangerous for hybrid mech mods. Since they may appear to protrude enough to be okay for hybrids people will use them together, but the insulators are pliable and the pin can be pushed up into it, which would allow the battery to make contact with the threads. Just something to keep in mind.

I've been checking out a Subtank Mini/rDNA40 combo using Vapor Shark Ni200 heads for a little over three weeks to see if this might be something my sis and daughter might like who don't build. So far, I've not had a single glitch of any sort. I don't know if it matters but I never torque my toppers down at all hard and my Subtank Mini has the clear insulators.

 

[RandyF]

I've been checking out a Subtank Mini/rDNA40 combo using Vapor Shark Ni200 heads for a little over three weeks to see if this might be something my sis and daughter might like who don't build. So far, I've not had a single glitch of any sort. I don't know if it matters but I never torque my toppers down at all hard and my Subtank Mini has the clear insulators.

Most people have issues with the RBA section since the 510 shaft is a bit shorter than the OCC heads shaft is, so with the RBA there is sometimes a hairline gap between the two on the inside connection. If it happens to make a connection without modifications, it can tend to be inconsistent, which will be more noticeable with Ni builds. The OCC heads usually make a good connection.

 

[HolmanGT]

I've been experiencing some odd behavior for the day. To start, I will mention that I've been using a new RDA (Hobo v2.1 clone), which I received on Monday - so automatically I'm going to assume that the source of my issues lie somewhere in there.

I built a new coil Monday evening, had been performing fine up until last night around dinner time. All of a sudden I noticed that when I pressed the fire button to take a hit, the first half second of the hit was very warm and noticeably harsher. I checked my screen when pressing the power button, and sure enough, it was jumping up to 40watts briefly before jumping back down to my designated settings (16w, 410dgs). I realize that the chip jumps up everytime you fire, but it has never been that high for me.

I figured maybe there was a short, or possibly a connection issue, so I took off my RDA cap and fiddled around with my coil to make sure everything was in order. Sure enough, I broke the coil while fiddling. So I made a new coil last night, which performed great, and then went to bed. Low and behold, on my way to work this morning, it started jumping up to 40watts again. I also noticed that my resistance was reading .37 ohms, as opposed to the .27ohms it said originally. I took my cap off and started fiddling with a paper clip. When I was done fiddling, it wouldnt fire and my screen said "check atomizer". At that point, I panicked because I thought I had broke my coil again, and wasn't going to have any nicotine for the next 8 hours!!!! By the grace of whatever, I pulled/replaced my battery, and it picked up the coil again. (at some point during this whole ordeal, either after fiddling or pulling the battery, I was prompted for "new coil/", and I said yes). Not only that, but it seems to be firing/warming up properly now (only jumping up to 26w instead of friggin 40w).

Does anyone know what could be causing these issues? I highly doubt this is the last time I will experience this. I would also like to note that both times the 40w issue began, I have noticed some screen-scrambling as well.

Insomaniac,

The 40 watt Screen scramble has been posted before. I would strongly suggest you describe the problem both high energy hit and especially the screen scramble and RMA it back to them for repair.

IMHO once that problem shows its ugly head it will only get worse.

 

[Insomaniac10]

Insomaniac,

The 40 watt Screen scramble has been posted before. I would strangled suggest you describe the problem both high energy hit and especially the screen scramble and RMA it back to them for repair.

IMHO once that problem shows its ugly head it will only get worse.

Interesting. Everytime I've mentioned screen scramble on this forum, everyone has turned their nose up at it saying "it has nothing to do with performance". I always felt like that was a lazy answer for people who just really want it to be user error.

I'll have to look into this, would you by chance have a link available?

 

[SavePaperVapor]

Interesting. Everytime I've mentioned screen scramble on this forum, everyone has turned their nose up at it saying "it has nothing to do with performance". I always felt like that was a lazy answer for people who just really want it to be user error.

I'll have to look into this, would you by chance have a link available?

It does have nothing to do with performance. I'm waiting a couple weeks to RMA mine with the problem though because it's been fixed, but the new chips were just sent out a couple weeks ago. This will give vaporshark some time to get them into the lineup. As for now, I just ignore it or let it sit for a minute and it's gone.

 

[Insomaniac10]

It does have nothing to do with performance. I'm waiting a couple weeks to RMA mine with the problem though because it's been fixed, but the new chips were just sent out a couple weeks ago. This will give vaporshark some time to get them into the lineup. As for now, I just ignore it or let it sit for a minute and it's gone.

I just have a hard time taking that theory at face value, when I have only experienced scrambling when my coil is not performing well, and I'm getting abnormal behavior such as my mod firing up to 40watts out of the gate. Whether the chip is tweaking on its own, or a user error is causing the chip to tweak - based on my own personal experience thus far, the two seem to be connected in some way.

Does anyone have a technical explanation as to why they believe/know that the scrambling is in no way related to poor performance, neither cause or effect?

 

[SavePaperVapor]

I have no explanation, just first hand experience with 3 different devices. My temp control has always worked fine, even while the screen was fritzing. Interestingly enough, I've been using kanthal builds for the last week and my screen has been perfect, so it is something in tc mode triggering it.