DNA modders' board project
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I bought this thing for case: 2*AA Portable Emergency Battery Charger with USB Cable for iPod/iPhone - Black - Worldwide Free Shipping - DX
But it's just waiting its queue
My son modded one of those cases. The USB was a bit of a pita for him to work around. He put the atty connector there with a juice well. He said if he was going to do another one he would fill that USB hole with epoxy first.
TY Breaktru!
Ya - it was a lesson in how much can you squeeze in a tiny space fer sure.
What you're seeing is the 510-510 adapter on the atty connector. The atty connector sits flush with the juice well with the remaining recessed into the mod and epoxied in place.
I took the adapter off...
I meant that the whole atty is outside... Here is my system with atty inside the box: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...ck-based-happy-vaper-booster.html#post4803931
If atomizer positioned inside the e-cig body, construction is more compact and solid
If atomizer positioned inside the e-cig body, construction is more compact and solid
Nice job of packing everything in there, it looks great. Do you mind listing the resistors values you used for the different wattages? I won't have room for a slide switch, maybe I could make the resistor modular so I could swap it out if i wanted to change wattage. Right now I seem to prefer the 9-10w range but my tastes seem to have a mind of their own with this vaping stuff.
TY unloaded!
You'll find that the Watts fluctuate plus/minus 0.1 at times from the set Watts. For vaping preferences, I don't consider that a biggie.
8 Watts = 86 ohm resister (I used 2, 43 ohm resisters in series)
9 Watts = 120 ohm resistor
10 Watts = 200 ohm resister
11 Watts = 390 ohm resister
No resister for 12 Watts since the board won't go to 12 Watts. To get max Watts use a jumper across pins 7 and 8. For my board, max Watts is 11.1 Watts.
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I have no idea urq. There's no schematic so I have no idea how the ground is linked or if it's safe to putz with.
I had read, or maybe I just assumed it can't remember for sure now, that the DNA board is the same as the Darwin internals. As far as I know the Darwin maintains stable Watts and also users are able to achieve 12 Watts. The Watts fluctuate on the DNA board and also can't achieve 12 Watts. So the DNA board may actually be a variant of the Darwin's main circuitry.
I can live with the plus/minus 0.1 Watts fluctuations, occasionally it's 0.2 off, as you can't tell it's fluctuating when you're vaping with it and I don't think it makes the board itself any less stable.
But to TBH I'm not exactly happy with the 11 Watts max when it's advertised and spec'd for 12 Watts max. It may not matter to some since they prob don't vape at 12 Watts, but that's not the point. I'd feel the same if the OKR module maxed at 5v output when it's advertised and spec'd for 6v output. That sort of thing. Maybe Evolv will look into it and see what's up.
It does gives a mighty fine regulated vape and I'm extremely happy with how well the AW IMR batt holds up under the load. There doesn't appear to be any glitches so far with using only one batt with the DNA board as long as you use a high quality, high drain batt.
So there's pros and cons with using this board, same as with any other module that we use for regulated vaping. There's no difference in the type of vape you get with vv vs vw. The advantage for this DNA board as I see it is being able to vape at the same power level, although limited to low and medium Watts vapers, across all atty/carto types without having to putz with dialing it up or dialing it down like we do with vv mods, and being able to do so with only one batt.
Using dual DNA boards does extend its capabilities, but is very cost prohibitive at $70 compared to the OKR-T6 module at $9 with 6A and 30W capability.
So I reckon overall it's what you as a modder want in your mod and what you want your mod to be capable of.
ETA: oops... sorry with the long post. Just putting some of my thoughts out there.
It's fine, good explanation. I just need to put it in a mod before wife finds a stash of modules with no house on em and yells at me lol. I have the DNA and a lm2596 I need to build, I want to start with lm2586 , then DNA, and hopefully I get the guts to do a okr-t6
Mamu, I see that the DNA has got a heatsink - do you think it's suitable for installing in a confined space in a wooden mod - maybe 3 times the volume of itself, with a couple of airholes?
This is an interesting thread - thanks
This is an interesting thread - thanks
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I don't think you'll have a problem with that setup John. The heat sink is almost touching the plastic case in my D-Pack mod (the fistpack case with the DNA board). I've taken loooong and frequent draws with it. There is some heat, but not very much and not anything at all like the linear regulators where the heat sink would get hot to the touch.
Mamu..thinking when I get my DNA's about adding additional heat sink material...may just get it to 12 watts that way....???
TY repoman!
I'm wondering why the delay in getting your DNA's retird. I've ordered twice now and have received both orders within 3 days.
I'll be curious if adding heat sink material helps. But the heat sink barely gets warm so I'm thinking it won't help. But ya never know! Good luck!
I'm wondering why the delay in getting your DNA's retird. I've ordered twice now and have received both orders within 3 days.
I'll be curious if adding heat sink material helps. But the heat sink barely gets warm so I'm thinking it won't help. But ya never know! Good luck!
Waiting on the USB charger boards to be available.....gettin' em all at one time...guess all I can do right now is talk about'em......lol
Mamu,
I am trying to PM you but your Private Message storage is full. Needs to be cleaned out.
I am trying to PM you but your Private Message storage is full. Needs to be cleaned out.
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