Dna20d REO VV

[T1lVl]

Can't use the screw cause the dna sits there.

Going to remove so of the paint and use the body as ground.

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[custom-classic]

This thread needs moar pics!!!

 

[T1lVl]

I'll have more live posted soon. Was doing it then my phone died.

I got pics of the internal and after removal.

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[T1lVl]

Okay.

Here is taking out the guts.

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[turbocad6]

if grounding to the body becomes difficult the you could run a wire down to the base of the battery too, only thing is you'd need 2 wires or, what I think I would do is run an 18ga from the battery base to the upper head and then have that Y off to 2 20ga. wires for the atty ground and the main ground. just running one 20 gage and splitting at the head wouldn't really be ideal because the in & out are both loads that really should have there own 20ga wire.

 

[turbocad6]

running a black wire at the back corner of the reo won't be so visible and won't interfere with the battery fitting at all, it's round so the corners are unoccupied anyway

 

[T1lVl]

I just planned removing some paint from the top corner and placing the ground there. Short and individual wire.

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[custom-classic]

Nice pics.
Tell me, what is the height difference between the grand and the vv grand?

 

[T1lVl]

Not alot

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[custom-classic]

'Bout a half inch or so then?
Lovin' that copper vein and brass, by the way.

 

[T1lVl]

Give or take.

In the left corner I cut out some so the dna slides into that lip.

Seems everything going to be fine besides the black plastic which there will be about over a half inch gap.

So I got to figure out a way to fill the gap and also mount the black plastic back in.

But it works great the 18650 fits. Compresses the spring some but not to worried cause the DNA will be in there.

Thanks BTW. I'm loving it too. Just hope I can get a brass button cover.

Also pdib got me a brass air control ring coming.

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[T1lVl]

Wires solder

I want to remove the button but all my good soldering equipment is in storage so using a crappy radioshack soldering iron.

But it will do.

Now going to work on protecting it and getting it mounted.

My wires are to long but will be trimmed down once I get the wiring path figured out.

Wrapped it up nicely in eletrical tape

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[turbocad6]

I remove the button with a dremel with a cut-off wheel, just cut through the 4 legs and the whole button assy pops off easy enough without risk of too much heat transfer, you could then desolder the pads easily if needed

 

[T1lVl]

Great idea.

Here's a mock fitting

Might not need to remove the button.

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[T1lVl]

Removed the button.

Got some of the connection soldered.

I don't have buttons for up and down.

Also having a hard time with ground.

The solder isn't sticking

Any ideas?

Think the outer shell of the botton would work?

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[turbocad6]

You can't solder to aluminum, the only options are tiny drill and tap but would be very difficult cause you cant go too deep and you need a tiny tap, also must be a bottoming tap, I wouldn't even attept it, if you can't use the stock screw holes then I'd run a wire all the way to a brass battery base for ground. Maybe could solder to the atty connector base but need a very hot iron, the aluminum body will act as a heatsink and suck the heat out, you could preheat the whole head with a heatgun then solder to the atty base could work well, or a black 20 ga run down in the corner you won't even see it

 

[T1lVl]

I figured.

Going ti run the wire and piggy back on the same ground.

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[turbocad6]

Actually I said 20 ga but ment 18 at least. That one wire will be carrying double load as atty ground and module ground so it needs to handle twice the amperage

 

[turbocad6]

Could also use a brass strip or bar L shaped and have that extend from the battery base up into the head, then screw or solder to the end in the head

 

[T1lVl]

Damn. Only have 22.

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