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I by-passed the batt contacts that came with this battery box and soldered the 26650 batt directly to the DNA20D board and everything is aok - vaping 1.6 ohm at 15 watts and no error messages.
Note to self: don't trust the batt contacts that come with these battery boxes.
Nice troubleshooting mamu
Nice troubleshooting mamu
LOL - well it didn't stop there. I didn't put a USB charging board in the mod. I didn't want one as I have an XTAR SP2 Intelligent charger I wanted to use at 2A to charge this 26650 batt. And I wanted to be able to just pop one batt out and pop another one in and be up and going with vaping right away.
So I needed to de-solder the batt and find batt contacts that would work.
I had some Denali case batt contact spares and they've been great in handling the OKR-T6 demand so used those. They were working aok at first but then the error messages started again and the vape was cutting out.
So I bought some C and D size batt contacts made by Keystone. The negative contact has a heavy duty steel spring and the base plate of both + and - contacts is sturdy and now the problem does seem to be solved. Hope so I'm tired of fooling with it.
It's been a good learning experience though and something I will put in my knowledge base of Murphy's Law of Modding.
When you're good... you're good. Nice going mamu.
At least the DNA is smart enough to sense the drop. Some mods experience poor performance and the user has no clue to why.
A couple of weeks ago I had the check battery with a soldered in Li-po. Kept throwing it back on the charger but it didn't work for long without the check battery popping up. I opened the case and found the Li-Po had leaked. Dumped it and replaced w/ a new one.
At least the DNA is smart enough to sense the drop. Some mods experience poor performance and the user has no clue to why.
A couple of weeks ago I had the check battery with a soldered in Li-po. Kept throwing it back on the charger but it didn't work for long without the check battery popping up. I opened the case and found the Li-Po had leaked. Dumped it and replaced w/ a new one.
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The check battery/weak battery message is nice and does come in handy as it saves time in troubleshooting for the cause of the problem and narrows it down to either a batt problem or batt contact problem without having to troubleshoot the whole system.
I like the check atomizer message too as I can narrow it down to either the ohms of the atty, the atty contact, or the insulator as the cause of the problem.
These are nice things to know when a mod isn't firing and why a mod isn't firing otherwise it's a one-by-one replace parts til you find the problem.
I like the check atomizer message too as I can narrow it down to either the ohms of the atty, the atty contact, or the insulator as the cause of the problem.
These are nice things to know when a mod isn't firing and why a mod isn't firing otherwise it's a one-by-one replace parts til you find the problem.
Could someone that has built one in a 9v battery box with a flat lipo battery post or pm me a link to the battery that you used? I have read this thread many times and haven't seen any links. I saw where Mamu posted the inside dimensions but all the 1200mah batteries I find are wider than 1 1/8. Any help I would be grateful. I am putting my parts list together.
To use the flat lipo batts in this 9v batt box you have to do a bit of modding with both the batt and the case.
This is the battery I used for the build: NEW 5x 3.7V 1200mAh 25C RC Lipo Battery Walkera 5#10 5G4Q3 SYMA S006 Helicopter
There were a few duds in my 2nd order from this seller that wouldn't hold a charge so they had to be replaced. All the batts in my 1st and 3rd order are aok so far. I've also bought the Storm 1200mAH 25c lipos which are the same size.
It's a tight fit height and width and depth. I had to remove the wrapping and de-solder the wires, then bend the tabs over to reduce the height. The width of the batt fits inside the case, but just barely. For the depth you need about 1mm more inside the case so I dremeled the inside of the front of the case to about 1.5mm in the area where the display is seated.
Retird is using E-Fly 1200mAh 20 C lipos and they are the same width and depth, but smaller in height so you don't have to putz with bending the tabs. Everyone is out of stock for the single cell, but you can buy the 11.1v set and de-solder... Lipo battery AKKU 1200mah 11.1v 20C Max 25C JST E-FLY T551
The round lipos asdaq linked to breaktru used in his build where he put the fire button and display on the side of the case rather than the front.
This is the battery I used for the build: NEW 5x 3.7V 1200mAh 25C RC Lipo Battery Walkera 5#10 5G4Q3 SYMA S006 Helicopter
There were a few duds in my 2nd order from this seller that wouldn't hold a charge so they had to be replaced. All the batts in my 1st and 3rd order are aok so far. I've also bought the Storm 1200mAH 25c lipos which are the same size.
It's a tight fit height and width and depth. I had to remove the wrapping and de-solder the wires, then bend the tabs over to reduce the height. The width of the batt fits inside the case, but just barely. For the depth you need about 1mm more inside the case so I dremeled the inside of the front of the case to about 1.5mm in the area where the display is seated.
Retird is using E-Fly 1200mAh 20 C lipos and they are the same width and depth, but smaller in height so you don't have to putz with bending the tabs. Everyone is out of stock for the single cell, but you can buy the 11.1v set and de-solder... Lipo battery AKKU 1200mah 11.1v 20C Max 25C JST E-FLY T551
The round lipos asdaq linked to breaktru used in his build where he put the fire button and display on the side of the case rather than the front.
The batteries I use fit in the case without dremeling. You still need to desolder the cells from the pack.
Turnigy nano-tech 850mah 4S 25~50C Lipo Pack (USA Warehouse)
Tip: use a length of dental floss to separate the cells without damaging the wrapper.
Turnigy nano-tech 850mah 4S 25~50C Lipo Pack (USA Warehouse)
Tip: use a length of dental floss to separate the cells without damaging the wrapper.
What do I have to do to get my paws on the all black version. I would do anything to own one. I am truly enviousI did another version - one with all black buttons. I prefer the black bigger fire button for front and center, but like the all silver buttons look better. And I've been outvoted by my kids and BG to do the all silver, smaller buttons version. People just gots no love for my beefy fire buttons.
I did another version - one with all black buttons. I prefer the black bigger fire button for front and center, but like the all silver buttons look better. And I've been outvoted by my kids and BG to do the all silver, smaller buttons version. People just gots no love for my beefy fire buttons.
i prefer the black button model also
be well
Hey mamu,
I have one of these mini's coming!!!!! Very exited cant wait! Can you pm me a way to contact I have a few questions I would like to ask you
thanks
Jon
I have one of these mini's coming!!!!! Very exited cant wait! Can you pm me a way to contact I have a few questions I would like to ask you
thanks
Jon
Me too! I would love to get my hands on one of these. Please let me know if and how to get one.
I buy all my connectors at madvapes.com. Hopefully, they'll be back in stock with the silver ones soon - my stash is running low.
I buy all my connectors at madvapes.com. Hopefully, they'll be back in stock with the silver ones soon - my stash is running low.
madvapes seem to be out of supply of the sealed 510s. ive been checking for the past few weeks now and still nothing.
how did you make the bezel on the top around the 510?
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