Does C-Rating Affect Wattage?

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cozzicon

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LOL coz. ... coming from the guy who chose an unregulated triple-v over the regulated version? Has the leopard changed it's spots? I haven't been keeping up with your reviews for a few months. Are you a VV proponent now? If so, any chance that unregulated triple-v will make it to the classies?

I've been vaping a Provari for about a year and running a kick and lavatube. I'm not so much a fan of the VV... or high voltage.... but I love *regulation*.

I chose the unregulated VVV because I like low watt vaping. and at 5 volts I need a 4 ohm atty to make me happy.

But the kick does work in the VVV just fine.
 

six

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But the kick does work in the VVV just fine.

Good to know. -- If you ever do decide to get rid of that triple-v, please give me a heads up. I'd consider yours to be a good collectable. I have its 5.0v brother and kalamazoo is selling the triple-v powder coated now. No shiny aluminum ones any more... and there can't be more than a handful of unregulated in circulation.

I didn't realize I'd gone maybe a year since I watched any of your vids. I suppose I have a lot of catching up to do.
 

cozzicon

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Good to know. -- If you ever do decide to get rid of that triple-v, please give me a heads up. I'd consider yours to be a good collectable. I have its 5.0v brother and kalamazoo is selling the triple-v powder coated now. No shiny aluminum ones any more... and there can't be more than a handful of unregulated in circulation.

I didn't realize I'd gone maybe a year since I watched any of your vids. I suppose I have a lot of catching up to do.

If I ever decide to move the VVV to another owner, I'll definitely keep it in mind. But I'm kinda keeping it for the same reasons you want it :)
 

Kemosabe

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its too bad you got peeved about my gramatical errors being pointed out. it sure doesnt bother me. i purposely type this way. absolutely zero belittlement is occuring or will occur.

however, i wont pretend like i know everything about everything. and im not ashamed. id like to know what 6point is talking about when he says "mods with electrical regulation". what is an example of a mod with electrical regulation? is he simply talking about variable voltage?

Of course I'm being sincere. I really like the way, for what appears to be no other reason other than belittlement, you highlighted the OP's grammatical errors. Classy stuff!

Thanks for highlighting my admiration by including me in your signature. Is there any chance you could assist a poor Luddite like myself by directing me to the 'ignore user' function on this fantastic forum?
 

6pointprime

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id like to know what 6point is talking about when he says "mods with electrical regulation". what is an example of a mod with electrical regulation? is he simply talking about variable voltage?

Pretty much...for example the Provari and Buzz Pro which are VV or the Darwin or the Opus which are VW to name just a few. There are also various 5v mods that were once all the rage like the Tekkmod, as well as options offered for the VVV and SaberTouch and many others. New devices like the eGo Twist do a fine (but not perfect) job for the low price point that they sell for.

Basically what I mean by electrical regulation is anything that makes the voltage going to the atomizer consistent, rather than based on the amount of actual charge left in the battery.

No matter how good a battery is, it cannot perform consistently without some form of electronic regulation.

I can't see a good reason why one would pay a premium price for a device that offers no electronic regulation given the many choices available of devices that do have electronic regulation for a low price.
 

Kemosabe

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cool. thanks for your reply. i do indeed have a VV device (varicool smokbox), but i feel that better batteries will allow me for a better vape.

Pretty much...for example the Provari and Buzz Pro which are VV or the Darwin or the Opus which are VW to name just a few. There are also various 5v mods that were once all the rage like the Tekkmod, as well as options offered for the VVV and SaberTouch and many others. New devices like the eGo Twist do a fine (but not perfect) job for the low price point that they sell for.

Basically what I mean by electrical regulation is anything that makes the voltage going to the atomizer consistent, rather than based on the amount of actual charge left in the battery.

No matter how good a battery is, it cannot perform consistently without some form of electronic regulation.

I can't see a good reason why one would pay a premium price for a device that offers no electronic regulation given the many choices available of devices that do have electronic regulation for a low price.
 

Adam the Aussie

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its too bad you got peeved about my gramatical errors being pointed out. it sure doesnt bother me. i purposely type this way. absolutely zero belittlement is occuring or will occur.

however, i wont pretend like i know everything about everything. and im not ashamed. id like to know what 6point is talking about when he says "mods with electrical regulation". what is an example of a mod with electrical regulation? is he simply talking about variable voltage?

No worries Kemosabe, I'm glad you didn't take offence. He had plenty of valid points in his post, i just got my back up about the way he decided to put those points across.
 

Kemosabe

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ok so back to the batts. for some reason, i cant get AWs to work in my mod. im not sure if its something with the mod, the batts, or what. :confused: i would really appreciate any input on this. this is my mod:
SmokTek "SmokBox VariCool" - Custom variable volt Box Mod - Efficient switching regulator! adjustable 3,4,5,6.5 volt's & everything between.
i talked to someone who had the non-vv version and the AWs work for him. the owner of the store thinks the AWs should work, but says he hasnt tried them.

but just so i get things straight, i understand that IMR batts will offer me more wattage due to their higher quality and better current/amp capability,

...Examples of what I have handy right now: The AW IMR 14500 in my REO mini is currently at a resting 3.6v. Firing a 1.8 ohm atty, it is 3.3 load volts for 6 watts. Charged yesterday a fresh AW IMR 14500 resting at 4.17v, that battery produces 3.76 load volts with the same atty for 7.85 watts.

my question now is how do i determine load volts? do i need a voltage display meter? or do some PVs have this built in, like the provari for example?
thanks for the help.
 

markfm

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This is the best question of all... and I wish I had an answer. All of the drain curve charts I've ever seen posted on candlepower, lighthound, ecf, or anywhere else are continuous from ~4.2 to ~2.5v drain. There are two dynamics in the difference between vaping and keeping a bulb lit that this just can't account for. One is just what you said: Periods of rest. The other is related and even more important: Temperature. Discharging continuously creates heat wherever resistance is present and all batteries have an internal resistance. It's impossible to account for those differences with a continuous discharge, and I've only seen a few guesses regarding whether or not the difference is at all significant.

I have never seen any sort of comprehensive battery review designed around vaping. If I had to guess, I would personally say the differences aren't going to be very significant, but I have absolutely no data to back that up. It's just my best guess.

Ask Mike (Buzzkill) at notcigs. I could be wrong, but believe he set something up to simulate vaping when he was testing batteries last year.
 
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Rader2146

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ok so back to the batts. for some reason, i cant get AWs to work in my mod. im not sure if its something with the mod, the batts, or what. :confused: i would really appreciate any input on this. this is my mod:
SmokTek "SmokBox VariCool" - Custom variable volt Box Mod - Efficient switching regulator! adjustable 3,4,5,6.5 volt's & everything between.
i talked to someone who had the non-vv version and the AWs work for him. the owner of the store thinks the AWs should work, but says he hasnt tried them.

but just so i get things straight, i understand that IMR batts will offer me more wattage due to their higher quality and better current/amp capability,



my question now is how do i determine load volts? do i need a voltage display meter? or do some PVs have this built in, like the provari for example?
thanks for the help.

Most of the battery boxes need some sort of spacer on the positive contact to work with AW batteries. I place a small "dome" of solder on the contact to fill the void. If you look closely you should be able to see the gap between the AW button and the contact. A 1mm neo magnet should work also.

For loaded volts you would need an on board meter, an inline meter, an inline adapter like this:

59d9b489.jpg
 

Kemosabe

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Rader, thank you. would this badboy work? Voltage Display Meter

also, thanks for the feedback on the AWs. a spacer! i hadnt thought of that. whats still confusing me is that the batts did seem to make a connection. the little light that lights up when the mod is in use had illuminated, but there was no vapor. i dont believe the atty was heating up at all. maybe 1mm more is all i would have needed...seems strange though because the spring was pushing the battery up and holding it in position. :confused:
is this a neo magnet?:
Neo Magnet Disc - 22mm x 1mm [DR-19760] - $0.97 : MJM Magic, Magic Tricks | Magic Kits | New Magic | Magic DVDS | Magic Books

Most of the battery boxes need some sort of spacer on the positive contact to work with AW batteries. I place a small "dome" of solder on the contact to fill the void. If you look closely you should be able to see the gap between the AW button and the contact. A 1mm neo magnet should work also.

For loaded volts you would need an on board meter, an inline meter, an inline adapter like this
 

zoiDman

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Rader, thank you. would this badboy work? Voltage Display Meter

also, thanks for the feedback on the AWs. a spacer! i hadnt thought of that. whats still confusing me is that the batts did seem to make a connection. the little light that lights up when the mod is in use had illuminated, but there was no vapor. i dont believe the atty was heating up at all. maybe 1mm more is all i would have needed...seems strange though because the spring was pushing the battery up and holding it in position. :confused:
is this a neo magnet?:
Neo Magnet Disc - 22mm x 1mm [DR-19760] - $0.97 : MJM Magic, Magic Tricks | Magic Kits | New Magic | Magic DVDS | Magic Books

I can speak to the Voltage Meter.

But that Magnet might be Too Big.

I have used 3/16" Diam by 3/32" thick Discs Magnets and they work fine.

Check out these guys. They have about every Magnet size out there.

K&J Magnetics - Products

Word to the Wise. Magnets are Cheap so you might get a few Different Sizes. Thin Magnets can be stacked also.
 

6pointprime

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6pointprime

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If you own (some but not other?) a LavaTube, it actually has a voltage under load feature built into it. Be sure to read through the thread, there are some tricks you need to do to get it to work.

I did verify this with my LavaTube. Pretty cool!

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...nother-hidden-feature-voltage-under-load.html

Sorry, this is not correct. After doing testing with a voltage under load tester and comparing those results to the LavaTube readout, the LavaTube readout is incorrect. Sorry about that.
 

zoiDman

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Sorry, this is not correct. After doing testing with a voltage under load tester and comparing those results to the LavaTube readout, the LavaTube readout is incorrect. Sorry about that.


I remember when this "Hidden Feature" of the Lavtube came out.

I've also heard that if you Press the "+" Button 5 Times and then the "-" Button 7 Times While holding Down the Power button and then press Both the "+" and the "-" at the Same Time, It will change the Channel on your DVR.

But you have to have Direct TV for it to work.

LOL
 

Kemosabe

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I remember when this "Hidden Feature" of the Lavtube came out.

I've also heard that if you Press the "+" Button 5 Times and then the "-" Button 7 Times While holding Down the Power button and then press Both the "+" and the "-" at the Same Time, It will change the Channel on your DVR.

But you have to have Direct TV for it to work.

LOL

oh, i thought that trick gave you 30 lives on Contra.
 
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