Seems like I am really unlucky when it comes to replacement cartos... I have purchased about 4 of them thus far and all have died within 2 days. Maybe I am doing something wrong. Go figure.
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LOL
Fun, isn't it?
The top will look dry, even when it's working perfectly. As long as you don't have that "fixin' to be dry" taste, it's all good.
(Sorry, I should havwe hit quote, replying to Wrigley. Not laughing at you, Trinifreak. Sorry)
Fun, isn't it?
The top will look dry, even when it's working perfectly. As long as you don't have that "fixin' to be dry" taste, it's all good.
(Sorry, I should havwe hit quote, replying to Wrigley. Not laughing at you, Trinifreak. Sorry)
Trini, it depends a lot on the juice...sometimes. Not always, But sometimes. I can usually only get 2 days from my diy cookie or tiramisu. (Both almost black color)
Clear will last me 3 or 4 days. That's usually my limit, even if it still works, it's getting old.
Clear will last me 3 or 4 days. That's usually my limit, even if it still works, it's getting old.
Yeah...this thing is pretty damn cool. Looking forward to testing diff cartos.
Hard to beat the quality for the price with the combo of a MV VV box, this tank and a nice Pyrex tip.
Hard to beat the quality for the price with the combo of a MV VV box, this tank and a nice Pyrex tip.
Lol, I just did this at work. Enthralled with all of the bubbles! The piercing saddle valve works perfectly, just got one Sunday. Just takes a second or so.
I'm finding that the DC cartos are hard to hit on the 3.7 mod I bring to work.
Not much puff going, so next step is to cut a tank down and try the regular cartos this weekend. We are never at a lack of a "to do list" are we?
I don't care for the draw on DC either.
I prefer a sinlge coil. Looking for long ones now. (Actually started a new thread in "where can I get") Will let you know if I find any.
I prefer a sinlge coil. Looking for long ones now. (Actually started a new thread in "where can I get") Will let you know if I find any.
I got some long regular carto's from IkenVape that I'm liking. They're not the cheapest, but using them in a tank, they last long enough for me to justify the price. Only negative is they only come with the black wrapper on them. And it's much more of a pain to get them off then other carto's with a covering.
Yes, always something to look forward to, and something to tinker with to make it better. I feel like a big kid with a lot of new, yet tiny, toys.
My tank does not seem to want to work with the 3.7v box mod I got from madvapes... Any suggestions.?
Probably not making the connection, especially if you're using the Smok Tech carto with the flange. That flange sometimes prevents the cartomizer from being screwed into the mod's 510 connection as deeply as a non-flanged cartomizer would go.
Try checking the positive (center pin) posts on the mod and the tank - you can usually use a paper clip to wiggle them back and forth and try to pry them out just a little bit, making sure when you're done that they aren't contacting the sides of the connectors at all.
If that doesn't help make the connection, try using an un-sealed 510-to-510 shorty extender. The center post in these tends to be the tiniest bit longer than necessary most of the time, and helps bridge whatever gap there might be between the mod's center post and the tank cartomizer's post.
I got mine and it worked great (no leaks) I just got some replacement cartos and am having bad leaking problems???
I've seen this a couple of times myself lately and it just happened again today on one tank. I won't be sure until I get home but strongly suspect an inner o-ring is damaged and letting air seep into the tank. If I'm right, this means the tank isn't maintaining that slight bit of vacuum (or least lack of positive pressure) that helps keep the nicquid from just leaking straight through the cartomizer.
When I get home first task is to disassemble the tank and check those o-rings. If they're damaged I should have replacements somewhere ... and, if that's the case, I'm going to stop using the self-tapping valve to punch cartos, as most of the ones I punch tend to get just deformed enough to be difficult push through battery end through the tank caps.
I guess another alternative is to keep punching and make sure to insert cartos through the bottom cap mouthpiece-end first, but honestly I've gotten just about as fast at slotting as punching so it's no big deal to keep slotting them.
To be fair this seems like something that could happen to any tank, though I must admit these tanks in particular don't seem to be quite as robust as some others.
Keep in mind that leaking and flooding are two different issues. Flooding means the carto has too much liquid in it, causing gurgling and weak vapor. Leaking means the tank is leaking liquid, causing a small mess.
Just so we're all on the same page, which are we talking about here?
JJ
Just so we're all on the same page, which are we talking about here?
JJ
I just got mine in today and I like it a lot so far, but I am noticing that i get less vapor than I did off of the EMDCC. Im using a KGO and its wicking fine with the pre punched carto how long do you guys usually drag on these I don't want to burn the carto by dragging to long since I cant really feel if its too hot?
Can't speak for anyone else, but in my case I guess the accurate description would be that it was flooding through the cartomizer and leaking out of the cartomizer's battery connection.
Not being intentionally sarcastic, that's just the truth of it.
FWIW, in the tank I was having issues with I replaced the bottom cap inner o-ring (which was not leaking out, but appeared to be letting a few additional air bubbles in with each draw) and went ahead and replaced the carto with a freshly slotted one. So far no problems, but I'll wait through tomorrow before saying for sure that fixed it.
One thing I will say about slotting: I was finding that a slot straight across the carto body as seems to be the norm could sometimes get hung up on the inner o-ring of the cap when inserting or re-inserting the cartomizer.
So, I've taken to cutting slots at a slight angle rather than straight across. With the slot cut approximately 10 degree off from straight across, it cannot catch and minimizes the chance of causing damage to the o-ring.
I had flooding problems when I slotted cartos and went with the single hole in the carto and they have worked very well for me in the last 3 months with no problems, so now this is my standard using the Saddle valve to punch the single hole and using it in a tank and its keeps the carto moist and doesn't flood. You do need to snug the carto in the Saddle valve tightly before you screw the punch into the carto, and I screw it all the way in one time only then back off the punch and take the carto out and place it in the tank, fill it with E-juice, then I hold my finger over the thread end and puff the carto and watch the bubbles rise in the E-Juice. I do this several times to make sure the carto is moist before I vape it and let is set for 10 to 15 min's then vape. The tank sure does make the carto's last alot longer in the tank. I love the tanks. Hope this is useful info.
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