DUD builds
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I finally got a stainless wick working well, heres what I did:
Switched to 30ga NiCr from 34ga. The heating characteristics are totally different, especially against stainless which sucks the heat.
2 x 5cm rectangle of 400 SS mesh.
Folded the mesh in half lengthwise so the cut edges get rolled into the center, leaving the smooth fold edge against the coil, eliminating the fringes of stainless fibers against the coil that cause hot spots and shorts.
11 wraps of 30ga (4.5" length wire) around a 6d finishing nail (3/32") gives me 2.5 ohms, great for the Vmax at 3 volts.
I oxidized the coil and mesh with a butane lighter only, cherry red for 10 seconds. Enough to burn off any manufacturing oils. Nothing crazy.
Installed coil to the screw and post using the nail in the well hole to keep it aligned.
Wick was rolled so It slid easily throught the coil with enough friction so it won't slide out.
Drilled the fill hole to 3/32", chamfered and stuck in a 1cm piece of 3/32 o-ring as a stopper. No leaks.
Cut the bottom of the wick at a 45 degree angle. Trimmed the top of the wick 1/8 past the top knurled nut.
Align the air hole 15 degrees ahead of the wick so incoming air doesn't directly cool the coil.
For the first time I've been able to get clean/non-harsh/non-metalic volumes of vapor from a stainless wick.
Update: I just chain vaped through a full tank, no problems. Wick got right to the last drop of juice.
Update: 6 tankfulls later, simply amazing.
Switched to 30ga NiCr from 34ga. The heating characteristics are totally different, especially against stainless which sucks the heat.
2 x 5cm rectangle of 400 SS mesh.
Folded the mesh in half lengthwise so the cut edges get rolled into the center, leaving the smooth fold edge against the coil, eliminating the fringes of stainless fibers against the coil that cause hot spots and shorts.
11 wraps of 30ga (4.5" length wire) around a 6d finishing nail (3/32") gives me 2.5 ohms, great for the Vmax at 3 volts.
I oxidized the coil and mesh with a butane lighter only, cherry red for 10 seconds. Enough to burn off any manufacturing oils. Nothing crazy.
Installed coil to the screw and post using the nail in the well hole to keep it aligned.
Wick was rolled so It slid easily throught the coil with enough friction so it won't slide out.
Drilled the fill hole to 3/32", chamfered and stuck in a 1cm piece of 3/32 o-ring as a stopper. No leaks.
Cut the bottom of the wick at a 45 degree angle. Trimmed the top of the wick 1/8 past the top knurled nut.
Align the air hole 15 degrees ahead of the wick so incoming air doesn't directly cool the coil.
For the first time I've been able to get clean/non-harsh/non-metalic volumes of vapor from a stainless wick.
Update: I just chain vaped through a full tank, no problems. Wick got right to the last drop of juice.
Update: 6 tankfulls later, simply amazing.
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I also made a clear tank from a 10ml syringe. Even though I have a lathe and a dremmel, I looked for an easier way to thin out the ends of the tube for a proper fit.
The solution was to use a flat 5/8" wood boring drill bit. I slid the tube over the bit shank, then inserted the shank into the drill. I slid the tube up to the bit while it is slowly spiinnng and the sharp tapered edge of the lower 1/2 of the bit nicely reamed out the tubing.
The solution was to use a flat 5/8" wood boring drill bit. I slid the tube over the bit shank, then inserted the shank into the drill. I slid the tube up to the bit while it is slowly spiinnng and the sharp tapered edge of the lower 1/2 of the bit nicely reamed out the tubing.
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Very clever. After reading this, I just had to try it; and it works well.
Add one to the dud list of failures.
I'm getting the notorious hot spot at the top everytime no matter what I do. I just took some 36g nichrome, tripled it and twisted it to get a thicker wire because all my coils were coming out ~1.2-1.4 ohm. I normally vape on 3ohm boges so I was hoping to get closer to that. The hotspots aren't popping hte coil and I've got it running ~9w so it's not like it's super hot or anything but it's a little metallic tasting and that hotspot just bugs me. The coil fires slow, I have to take a few puffs to get the hit I want and by the time it gets there the top wrap is really cooking the juice so it ruins the taste.
I've tried a lot of what's in this thread and I'm starting to get a little bummed. I'm building my own RBA, I only bought this one to test what's on the market and commonly used but it's proving to be a relatively large pita.
I'm getting the notorious hot spot at the top everytime no matter what I do. I just took some 36g nichrome, tripled it and twisted it to get a thicker wire because all my coils were coming out ~1.2-1.4 ohm. I normally vape on 3ohm boges so I was hoping to get closer to that. The hotspots aren't popping hte coil and I've got it running ~9w so it's not like it's super hot or anything but it's a little metallic tasting and that hotspot just bugs me. The coil fires slow, I have to take a few puffs to get the hit I want and by the time it gets there the top wrap is really cooking the juice so it ruins the taste.
I've tried a lot of what's in this thread and I'm starting to get a little bummed. I'm building my own RBA, I only bought this one to test what's on the market and commonly used but it's proving to be a relatively large pita.
oh, also... vapor production is WAY lower than I'm used to with this juice/wattage.
how many wraps are you using with 36g to get 1.2-1.4ohms?
The reason I ask is if it's more tha 3 wraps with 36g and yer only getting 1.2ohms then I thing you are shorting somewhere.
Example: My DuD has a 3/4 wrap of 32g and it's a 1.1ohm(yes, on purpose
), 3/4 wrap of 36g should be closer to 2-2.5ohm or higher
Also, if you are indeed shorting somewhere on the coil then only some of the coils will fire and the current is heating the mesh and the coil instead of just the coil..........= less vapor...
The reason I ask is if it's more tha 3 wraps with 36g and yer only getting 1.2ohms then I thing you are shorting somewhere.
Example: My DuD has a 3/4 wrap of 32g and it's a 1.1ohm(yes, on purpose
), 3/4 wrap of 36g should be closer to 2-2.5ohm or higherAlso, if you are indeed shorting somewhere on the coil then only some of the coils will fire and the current is heating the mesh and the coil instead of just the coil..........= less vapor...
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Lance, its definitely a short to the mesh. My guess is very close to the top coil. Watch it when firing, where it begins to glow quickly, follow from top screw until it no longer glows. That's where it is likely shorting. I've found it to be the end of the mesh seam. I fix this by removing the wick, heat until glowing red, and you may see bright orange spots. I take a mini flat screwdriver and run over the bright orange pieces of SS that are there while still heating. They should fall off and no more really bright strains of SS.
I'm using nichrome not kanthal, would that make a difference? Also, I'm a little confused... higher gauge = thinner wire. shouldn't that equal less resistance?
higher gauge = thinner wire= more resistance. Harder to push water thru a thin tube comparison.
yeah, I'm an idiot I was thinking material resistance in regards to insulation not conductivity. I've had a lot on my mind...
Anyway, I vowed I"d put the thing down until my friend got back from vcon to talk to him live while I built a coil and mesh so I obviously did that... for 3 minutes.
Just built another coil and wick, tried the rolling paper method. Now instead of one of the top coils going hot, it's hte segment of wire between the wick and the top post, not the actual coil. it's cooking orange a good 5 seconds before any of hte rest of the coil gets even close to lighting up. Put it down for good this time, back to my boges until I can get some live chat action with Pharmboy
I was thinking material resistance in regards to insulation not conductivity. I've had a lot on my mind... Anyway, I vowed I"d put the thing down until my friend got back from vcon to talk to him live while I built a coil and mesh so I obviously did that... for 3 minutes.
Just built another coil and wick, tried the rolling paper method. Now instead of one of the top coils going hot, it's hte segment of wire between the wick and the top post, not the actual coil. it's cooking orange a good 5 seconds before any of hte rest of the coil gets even close to lighting up. Put it down for good this time, back to my boges until I can get some live chat action with Pharmboy
You may want to try unrolling your wick, fold it in half and then re-roll it. I've been messing for 3 weeks and couldn't get clean vapor, just harsh metalic burnt crap. I really think the 30ga NiCr is important though. The thin wire heats up in spots with any slight anomaly.
Dude, I'm in Dallas, I would happily meet up and show you how to get a wick and coil spot on....lemme know.
I've gone through all the BS and now have all my atomizers hitting great on every coil.
I've gone through all the BS and now have all my atomizers hitting great on every coil.
Hey aren't you supposed to be busy doing a vid for us?
Im down to my last one, maybe two lengths of wire and one piece of mesh. Im waiting. LOL. Im unsure of the gauge that came with the kit but how many wraps would you suggest for a 1.8 to 2.2 ohm used on a Lambo 4.0 LT.
I might take you up on that, busy weekend planned but I'm always lookin for vapin folk in the DFW area. I live in Fort Worth but I get out to dallas relatively frequently.
Hey aren't you supposed to be busy doing a vid for us?
Im unsure of the gauge that came with the kit but how many wraps would you suggest for a 1.8 to 2.2 ohm used on a Lambo 4.0 LT.
Yeah yeah, I'm workin on gettin a camera setup to do it.
Kool man, I'll be out of town this weekend but will be back monday, just lemme know. There is a kool vape shop over here if ya wanted to check it out.
Cool,
I'm actually going to be in dallas most of this weekend, just too busy to take any side trips anyway. I'm gonna fiddle with the DUD some more tomorrow and see if I can get this thing working. It's gotta be shorting or something, the resistance measured right this last time but that one section of wire just kept lighting up like mad when I fired it. the vapor production and taste were horrible. I'll make another wick tomorrow and try a slow burn to oxidize it.
I'm actually going to be in dallas most of this weekend, just too busy to take any side trips anyway. I'm gonna fiddle with the DUD some more tomorrow and see if I can get this thing working. It's gotta be shorting or something, the resistance measured right this last time but that one section of wire just kept lighting up like mad when I fired it. the vapor production and taste were horrible. I'll make another wick tomorrow and try a slow burn to oxidize it.
this thing is starting to make me angry.
I've build an RBA from scratch in the past, not genesis style, just a 2 post dripper style but still.. I was using SS mesh for the wick on that as well and I didn't have this issue.
Everytime I dry burn it, one section of wire heats up more than the rest and it eventually just pops while I try to wiggle things and fix it. I've oxidized the mesh 20 different ways at this point, used rolling papers, quenched, didn't quench, burned juice off, didn't burn juice off, did a little dance, prayed to dangerous alien gods, I even sacrificed a small animal (had chicken for lunch). Nothing is working. I'm gettin close to just throwing this thing in a box and enjoying my boges until I finish my new genesis style RBA project.
I've build an RBA from scratch in the past, not genesis style, just a 2 post dripper style but still.. I was using SS mesh for the wick on that as well and I didn't have this issue.
Everytime I dry burn it, one section of wire heats up more than the rest and it eventually just pops while I try to wiggle things and fix it. I've oxidized the mesh 20 different ways at this point, used rolling papers, quenched, didn't quench, burned juice off, didn't burn juice off, did a little dance, prayed to dangerous alien gods, I even sacrificed a small animal (had chicken for lunch). Nothing is working. I'm gettin close to just throwing this thing in a box and enjoying my boges until I finish my new genesis style RBA project.
I think the most common mistake is too much "oxydizing action".
I just roll my mesh to the desired diamter,then burn it evenly for a few seconds.
The most important part here would be the juice on/burn juice action.(PG or VG,doesnt matter)
Do that part until your mesh is a nice even dark color and slide the coil you previously made on a drill bit on it.
I just roll my mesh to the desired diamter,then burn it evenly for a few seconds.
The most important part here would be the juice on/burn juice action.(PG or VG,doesnt matter)
Do that part until your mesh is a nice even dark color and slide the coil you previously made on a drill bit on it.
Just received my tank from IBTanked and it looks great. However, I had some issues that I figured I'd share and bounce off ya'll.
Since I had it apart, I decided to change up my wick. I was using the SS/cheesecloth hybrid method and decided to try straight coil to SS method. Pulled out the cotton, reoxidized the wick, and re-did the coil. Fired it up and no heat. Made sure the coils were good and there were no shorts - still no heat. Pulled out the SS wick to see if it was shorting on the wick - nothing. Took the coil off, figured maybe the post was screwed down too tight and was somehow bypassing the rubber grommets so took it apart and put it back together - still nothing. Maybe the wire was bad so used a new wire - nothing.
Didn't have any problems when I used the cotton hybrid method but didn't want to go back to it because I didn't like the residue so decided to try the rolling paper method. Wrapped it up, re-attached everything, and it fires right up.
After a few hours of taking it apart and putting it back together I was just glad it was working. Now I'm trying to figure out why it happened in the first place. It couldn't have been the wick because it should have fired with the wick out. The center post screws should be conductive too, correct? The wire doesn't actually have to be touching the post - although with as many times I disconnected and reconnected the center post this shouldn't have been the issue, regardless. It wasn't the battery because I tried it on another battery and still nothing. It was either a short and the protection was kicking in (eGos do have short protection, right?) or there was no continuity. I didn't pull out the multimeter because well, I was just being stubborn.
It's working great now and I shouldn't have to take it apart again unless the coil breaks but I'm just wondering what will happen when I do. Thoughts?
Sent from my GT-P3113 using Tapatalk 2
Since I had it apart, I decided to change up my wick. I was using the SS/cheesecloth hybrid method and decided to try straight coil to SS method. Pulled out the cotton, reoxidized the wick, and re-did the coil. Fired it up and no heat. Made sure the coils were good and there were no shorts - still no heat. Pulled out the SS wick to see if it was shorting on the wick - nothing. Took the coil off, figured maybe the post was screwed down too tight and was somehow bypassing the rubber grommets so took it apart and put it back together - still nothing. Maybe the wire was bad so used a new wire - nothing.
Didn't have any problems when I used the cotton hybrid method but didn't want to go back to it because I didn't like the residue so decided to try the rolling paper method. Wrapped it up, re-attached everything, and it fires right up.
After a few hours of taking it apart and putting it back together I was just glad it was working. Now I'm trying to figure out why it happened in the first place. It couldn't have been the wick because it should have fired with the wick out. The center post screws should be conductive too, correct? The wire doesn't actually have to be touching the post - although with as many times I disconnected and reconnected the center post this shouldn't have been the issue, regardless. It wasn't the battery because I tried it on another battery and still nothing. It was either a short and the protection was kicking in (eGos do have short protection, right?) or there was no continuity. I didn't pull out the multimeter because well, I was just being stubborn.
It's working great now and I shouldn't have to take it apart again unless the coil breaks but I'm just wondering what will happen when I do. Thoughts?
Sent from my GT-P3113 using Tapatalk 2
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