DUD builds

[Nurzrachit]

As some or most of you know, there is a new inexpensive mass produced Genesis style atomizer being sold by several vendors currently for under $40 bucks. My friend spraintz did a review with pics. If anyone else has any experience with this Atty, or any suggestions lets post them here. Try to keep on topic, myself included. It obviously does not measure up to the highly touted DID that it took it's design from, but for those of us who want a low budget Atty to bang around with outside it may be the ticket.

If anyone has received theirs and has any tips, tricks, beastly builds etc. Lets see em'

 

[spraintz]

Here is a lil bit of my experiences so far regarding this atomizer that I got here: MOV Genesis Style Rebuildable Atomizer Tank

If you are looking to break into rebuildables and want a good place to start then this guy is a great option! Below I have shown some comparisons with some higher end atomizers but in the end the performance is still great.

I must say that I can't find any fault with the way it performs, hits and vapes just the way this style is supposed to. The only real issues I can really call out are that of fit and finish.

first, the device I got it for:

makin some vapor:

vapor linger after 3 sec. draw:

and now some comparisons with a high end atomizer of the similar "genesis" style, the bliSS:

the DuD:

bliSS:

side by side, notice the thread quality between the 2:

here are all my rebuildables. (left to right) Phoenix, DuD/DiDn't, bliSS, and G-tank-US(...ahhhhh, angels and choirs singing is praise!!!):

Here are all the 510 connections, sorry for the bad pic but you can clearly see the thread quality difference. The (lesser) ones on the left, the high quality machining on the right. Phoenix and DuD have that slight looseness and "wobble" when connected, the good one simply do not budge:

Wanna see what you pay for in a high end atomizer? This is 1 piece of stainless precisely machined for each o-ring, thread and screw/wick hole. Then and insert for the positive post, doesn't get much more solid than that:

In summary, still very worth the $29.99 I paid......absolutely worth a co-op $12. I don't have a authentic DiD or I would have compared but I can say that the actual DiD has the quality and attention to detail like the bliSS listed above.

I do not regret getting this at all, it will serve it's intended purpose: a small, cheap, fine if it gets damaged genisis style for my back-up mod. However, now that I have it and have seen the build of a real DiD, I will most likely be replacing it with a DiD Mini some day as I am just one of those guys that it bugs me when I know that there is something better out there but for now it'll work fine.

 

[DeviantDigi]

Kickass post spraintz.

I like that name, The DUD lol. My 2 cents, short and sweet;
Its Ego friendly but a bit heavy. The air hole doesn't line up with the wick without tinkering. I'm having trouble refilling the tank. I fill through one hole and the liquid comes out the other. Even though its not full. Its hard to tell when your running out of juice being its all metal.

Great RAT for the price, DV has them for $25 atm.

 

[flbutterfly1]

I got mine working great. I figured out if you rotate the head(not the top cover) till the wick is always on the bottom when you take a hit it always wicks perfect. And as Turbo pointed out to have the airhole in line with the wick it seems to work great. This is a good beginner rat for me. I am happy with it for the price.

 

[spraintz]

I'm certain that I or somebody else very very soon will be finding a way to make a clear tank section. Shouldn't be too hard, ubes from these cheap carto tanks are really close: Dual Coil 510 Tank Cartomizer, 3.5ml, Blue

The wick and fill holes are rather small and it does make it tough to fill by "dripping" the juice in from a bottle. I have always used a syringe to fill most of my stuff, makes it worlds easier.

 

[AndyInOC]

I wasn't able to get my hands on one of these yet but I definitely want to ASAP. I guess I will just have to walk around with my phoenix clone & trivecca next weekend while I'm out of town Lol.This thread is a great resource and thank you all for the info. People may not always realize it but the guys who tinker with these first give us late starters a great recipe for success.

 

[MattU29]

I'm certain that I or somebody else very very soon will be finding a way to make a clear tank section. Shouldn't be too hard, ubes from these cheap carto tanks are really close: Dual Coil 510 Tank Cartomizer, 3.5ml, Blue

The wick and fill holes are rather small and it does make it tough to fill by "dripping" the juice in from a bottle. I have always used a syringe to fill most of my stuff, makes it worlds easier.

A 10ml syringe makes a great cheap clear tank. There are also rumors that the Chinese manufacturer is already working on a clear tank

 

[spraintz]

was gonna use what was left of my syringe Ghost Protocol tank for the G-Tank but it's the wrong diameter. I like the syringe tubes the best if I can just find one that will fit. I'll try the 10ml, thanks MattU.

 

[MattU29]

I have 5 of these, and all of them work great, but I set up one of my test units for someone that was having a bad top coil hotspot which I read early on a lot of people were having (mostly because this is a lot of peoples first genesis).

For anyone that can't get their wick close enough to the center post or wet enough, a $0.10 fix is to add a M3 SS washer between the top and middle nut and it will completely kill that (washer should be close but not touching the wick).

 

[Nurzrachit]

Mattu29 thanks for the hotspot tip. Spraintz thanks again my man for the awesome pics, and short but sweet review. i was hoping Discount Vapers would have some more in today, but no luck. I could have ordered from MOV, but it is about twice as much $, and I am trying to remain as budgeted as possible. Will be turning mine into a vapor monster as soon as I lay hands on it.

 

[Escapereality]

I didn't have any luck with my DUD. It was my first rebuildable and I spent the better part of the day tinkering with it.

I have tried just about everything I found online and haven't managed to have any luck. I swear I oxidized the absolute he'll out of my mesh, about 5 or burn/quench with 3 juice burns. I've also taken a wick off after I made the coil and did another 3 or 4 burns.

Not sure what I'll try next, I was just getting frustrated so figured I'd put it down for a bit. I've been reading tons of info and watching YouTube videos, but is there anything I could be missing from?

 

[TBinAZ]

The next time you try it, and I'm assuming you got some VV errors, douse the coil with juice before you test it. And there is also the cigarette paper trick. One other item is if you're using a 'heavy hitter' VV device, try 'seasoning' the atty with a 3.7 device before putting on the VV. Just some suggestions.

I didn't have any luck with my DUD. It was my first rebuildable and I spent the better part of the day tinkering with it.

I have tried just about everything I found online and haven't managed to have any luck. I swear I oxidized the absolute he'll out of my mesh, about 5 or burn/quench with 3 juice burns. I've also taken a wick off after I made the coil and did another 3 or 4 burns.

Not sure what I'll try next, I was just getting frustrated so figured I'd put it down for a bit. I've been reading tons of info and watching YouTube videos, but is there anything I could be missing from?

 

[Escapereality]

The next time you try it, and I'm assuming you got some VV errors, douse the coil with juice before you test it. And there is also the cigarette paper trick. One other item is if you're using a 'heavy hitter' VV device, try 'seasoning' the atty with a 3.7 device before putting on the VV. Just some suggestions.

Yeah I'm using it on the Provari to test the coil @ 2.9. Most of the time I am not getting errors, I'm just getting a coil that only glows in a very small section. Also the hot spots are generally at the top or bottom.

I may have to try the cigarette paper trick, although I am hesitant about actually buying rolling papers as I always associate them with illicit activities and feel a bit weird buying them lol. What kind do you recommend I get?

 

[Nurzrachit]

Any standard papers will do. Make sure all the slack is out of the wire too around the SS wick, and try getting the ends as close to the posts as possible to eliminate hot spots. Season the coil at low voltage initially, there is a break in period as well, the coil gets better flavor after a tank full on most rebuildables, I find slowly increasing the voltage seems to eliminate some of the harshness before it gets up to snuff. 2.9 ohm's is a great wrap it should be excellent at 5 volts in no time, Keep up the good work escapereality, and let us know how it goes.

 

[TBinAZ]

Pretty much anything out there will work. I've even used tissue paper, but with less than favorable result compared to the cig paper. Make the coils tight and the wire ends as level with the posts as possible. Keep a post of some sort, thick paper clip or something in the mesh tube while wrapping.

Edit: also try heating the resistance wire red a few times with a lighter before installing/wrapping it. Takes the tension out of it a bit.

Yeah I'm using it on the Provari to test the coil @ 2.9. Most of the time I am not getting errors, I'm just getting a coil that only glows in a very small section. Also the hot spots are generally at the top or bottom.

I may have to try the cigarette paper trick, although I am hesitant about actually buying rolling papers as I always associate them with illicit activities and feel a bit weird buying them lol. What kind do you recommend I get?

 

[Nurzrachit]

Escapereality, Mattu29's post on page one may help with your hotspots too. BTW Clouds of vapor is now carrying them as well and in stock 24.99, I also found a 10% off coupon code online, don't remember it right now, just google it. so that is 22.49 with 3$ shipping.

 

[spraintz]

Escapereality, a "hotspot" on the coil is generally 1 of 2 things: a short or the coil/part of a coil is not close enough to the wick to stay wet.

keep in mind that the idea of "oxidizing" a wick is to create a non-conductive barrier or layer on the SS so the wick won't short on the coil or the tank body. This oxidized layer can be, to a degree, fragile.....meaning it can get scraped off by the smallest of motions and exposing the underlying conductive SS. Be gentle with a freshly oxidized wick. even the slight movement of the coil wire against the wick can disrupt that oxidized layer and a short can show up.

Then there is the issue of getting the coil nice and tight so all the coils will be in contact with juice at all times. The idea behind the cigarette paper is that you can wrap yer coil nice and tight with less fear of disturbing that oxidized layer and once it's been burned off then you have another carbon layer under the coil wires for more resistance from shorts. This cigarette paper(or toilet paper, tissue paper) method is a nice option but to me it still leaves you with a looming possibly problematic situation......it can still be scraped away pretty easily and still have shorting issues.

The only method I have found to give the best and easily repeatable performance is this:
Mesh/Cotton hybrid wick Bluegrasslover's method - YouTube

It is the only method I use now on all my SS wick atomizers and they work perfect every time. It allows you to tightly wrap the coil without fear of disturbing the oxidation layer and also aids in wicking and keeping the coil wet. Using this method on the DuD, I was able to have the DuD out of the box, wicked, coiled and vaping in a matter of minutes with no error, hot spots or shorts. I take that above method one step further tho and not only wrap the cotton where the coil will be but also where the wick will be going through the tank body to even further reduce the chance of shorts.

At the end of the day it primarily comes down to practice and getting good at it but that cotton thing sure makes it soooo much easier. I say give it a try, whatcha got to lose? a $.0000000002 cotton ball?

I'll try to get some step-by-step pics of how I do my wick and coil someday.

Have fun, see you on the other side......

 

[Escapereality]

Thank you everyone for the recommendations. I think I will try both the cigarette paper method and cotton method. What scares me about the cotton method is the potential for burning the cotton if the wick gets dry.

Am I maybe being to particular in my coil? I am looking for a perfect even glow, if I can't get that then I take it all apart, do some more wick burns, and try again.

I really hope I can get this thing working. At the moment my Vivi novas are actually working so I'm going to be vaping them over the weekend hopefully. Then Monday I can give the DUD another shot at building a wick/coil.

 

[spraintz]

The cotton will not burn as long as it is wet, and it's pretty easy for the cotton to stay wet. Using the cotton technique you can't really do a dry burn to test since ya don't wanna burn the cotton. How you test is to drip some drops on it then fire, you should see bubbling of liquid from most of the coil. If it is only bubbling from one lil spot then that's a "hotspot"

When starting out it is easy to get super paranoid about making the coil "perfect". I went through a bunch of methods and lots of different tries as well and eventually found a way to make the coils and wicks that work great every time and now it's simple.

I'm tellin ya, once you find that reliable/repeatable method that works for you then every coil after will be a piece of cake

 

[chefmatthew]

I got one of these in the other day from MOV and played with it for several hours before getting the coil and wick to work nicely. This is my entry into rebuildables, Well this and the Vivi Nova heads. The only problem I was still having with it was the position of the air hole when I tightened it down. It was about a half a turn away from the wick. If you look at the amount of threads that are in the top cap in comparison to the threads on the base, there is plenty of room for adjustments to be made with some sandpaper, a hard surface and some patience. I myself am lacking in the patience but have a bench grinder in the garage! I just took off a little of the area at the bottom of the cap until the air hole was positioned just right and then touched it up with some 2000 grit sandpaper. Although it didn't come out just perfect, it works great now. I'm gonna have a hard time deciding on my next purchase. ZAP, Cobra or AC9? Maybe I'll end up with all 3. I hope this will help someone out. I did think about filling the hole and drilling another but this was easier and required less of that patience stuff.