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The McARB is another with a near identical construction with a ceramic cup. You guys would love Kayfuns and Ithakas as well! 
My cousin came over to my house today with his ProVari and ZAP (the one I sold to him cause I hated it) and he saw my eBDP on my ProVari and he looked down at his ZAP, then back at my eDBP and shook his head in defeat. 
Nah, but really, I love this thing and I have tried many RDAs and gennys and this was the first to really work for me (meaning, after I got it working flawlessly, I actually liked it). Couple the great performance with how it is made for my mod of choice and you got a win/win!
I want to see this thread come alive.
Nah, but really, I love this thing and I have tried many RDAs and gennys and this was the first to really work for me (meaning, after I got it working flawlessly, I actually liked it). Couple the great performance with how it is made for my mod of choice and you got a win/win!I want to see this thread come alive.
My cousin came over to my house today with his ProVari and ZAP (the one I sold to him cause I hated it) and he saw my eBDP on my ProVari and he looked down at his ZAP, then back at my eDBP and shook his head in defeat.
I want to see this thread come alive.
Another cool thing with the ceramic cup is that if you have a torch, you can thorch the cup with the wick and coil and make it almost as brand new again, and can keep a setup going for quite a long time that way.
I have found that if I wash i out and pulse dry burn, the coil gets totally clean and the wick gets spotless. I will likely clean it every other day. Do you think that will affect performance negatively, or will it just keep me good?
The McARB is another with a near identical construction with a ceramic cup. You guys would love Kayfuns and Ithakas as well!
If I had the money I'd order an Ithaka tomorrow. I've seen enough YouTube videos to know that it would be amazing.
I've done a few dual coil builds in my Dripper Pro and I stopped because it got really hot. I believe that on one such build (a .6ohm dual coil) that it got so hot that it fused the ceramic to the center post because I literally had to chip it off piece by piece. Or maybe it just wouldn't come off for some other reason, either way I stopped doing dual coils and generally stick to about 1.4 ohms with it and about 1.8 with my Killer 705.
i have the dripper pro, the spiral and killer 705 just arrived last thursday also. i got a couple packs of the cups and coils also. im not a good rebuilder hence ordering the extras. i washed out the spiral last night and broke the wire that goes on the threads so i grabbed a new cup and coil and am rolling again
Can anyone explain to me why the eBDP's ohms jump all over the place, and if there is a way to rectify it? One day it's 2.1Ω, then the next it's 2.6Ω. It doesn't really matter, but since the ProVari and the eBDP are meant for each other, using a VW is out of the question. It would be nice to not have to worry about the ohms changing. But if it is what it is, then it is what it is.
It's a lose wire connection somewhere. Generally your negative that you trap under the top half of the body, or maybe you didn't push your ceramic all the way down ?
Some of my ceramics are a little tight and the best way I've found to push them on is to put the bottom of half of the eBDP on a counter or table or something and give it a good push down on that post to make sure it's all the way down. If you don't do it on a hard surface it's possible to push that center pin out the bottom and its a little annoying to get back in.
As for the negative , how are you trapping it ? I generally just leave the negative tail pretty long when I rebuild it and just bring it straight out the side. I'll then tighten down the top nice and snug and then just wiggle off the excess.
If you plan to take out the ceramic and clean it at all that might not work so well as it doesn't leave you with a ton if play when you put it back together. I just personally put a brand new (rebuilt) one every few days so I don't worry about it too much.
Some of my ceramics are a little tight and the best way I've found to push them on is to put the bottom of half of the eBDP on a counter or table or something and give it a good push down on that post to make sure it's all the way down. If you don't do it on a hard surface it's possible to push that center pin out the bottom and its a little annoying to get back in.
As for the negative , how are you trapping it ? I generally just leave the negative tail pretty long when I rebuild it and just bring it straight out the side. I'll then tighten down the top nice and snug and then just wiggle off the excess.
If you plan to take out the ceramic and clean it at all that might not work so well as it doesn't leave you with a ton if play when you put it back together. I just personally put a brand new (rebuilt) one every few days so I don't worry about it too much.
@chadsmo, I see you are using 2mm silica wicks--is that what is already standard with the eBDP? Also, is there anywhere to buy the ceramic cups (by themselves, i.e., no wick and coil) just in case one breaks? From Greek Vapes I didn't get a replacement which is okay because the shipping was seriously only 7 days.
I feel a bit silly because I have a bunch of remedial questions, but this is the first rebuildable (genny or RDA) that I have liked. The gennys I got down with rebuilding, but I hated the draw so I parted ways with them. The other RDAs I have had were the same, but I never rebuilt the coils or wicks because I never used them enough to need to. With the eBDP I have used it exclusively for a week now.
I feel a bit silly because I have a bunch of remedial questions, but this is the first rebuildable (genny or RDA) that I have liked. The gennys I got down with rebuilding, but I hated the draw so I parted ways with them. The other RDAs I have had were the same, but I never rebuilt the coils or wicks because I never used them enough to need to. With the eBDP I have used it exclusively for a week now.
Mr.Mann, it use CE2 ceramic cups, same as used in McARB, Killer 705, Diver and others.
I actually just ordered 5 more ceramics yesterday from http://www.atmistique.gr/en/craven-...l&product_id=507&category_id=75&keyword=Diver
And yes you pretty much have to use 2mm IMO. 1mm is too thin and your wicking and juice capacity would suffer. 3mm is too thick to fit through the side channels of the ceramic and would also restrict airflow past the coil.
And yes you pretty much have to use 2mm IMO. 1mm is too thin and your wicking and juice capacity would suffer. 3mm is too thick to fit through the side channels of the ceramic and would also restrict airflow past the coil.
They've had all their stock stuck in customs for quite awhile. There's a few other places that carry them and have some stock (overseas).
Okay, more questions. LOL
Is there a difference between going lower resistance with the coils (aside from the difference in volts that it'll take)? It seems that when the coils are closer together, it may make for a quicker gunk. I have seen some people writing about liking lower resistance with the coils, but I can't understand how and why the actual vape would be different. Aside from battery life, is there something else?
I have been able to get my coils and wick really clean. However, while it looks super clean, it doesn't seem to be hitting as it did the first couple days. It's not bad, but it's not quite the powerhouse it was. Is there a particular reason why clean coils and wicks would perform sub-par? Do coils have a sort life even if "clean?" I have used the hell out of this coil over the past week FWIW.
This question is going to be really weird. For some reason, if I switch back to a regular 510 atty for a few hours, when I put the eBDP back on the ProVari, it won't screw all the way down. But, after a few fires, and un-screws and re-screws (that looks weird), it will screw all the way back down. What is going on with that connector? Any thoughts? Sorry if that last question is really bugged out.
Is there a difference between going lower resistance with the coils (aside from the difference in volts that it'll take)? It seems that when the coils are closer together, it may make for a quicker gunk. I have seen some people writing about liking lower resistance with the coils, but I can't understand how and why the actual vape would be different. Aside from battery life, is there something else?
I have been able to get my coils and wick really clean. However, while it looks super clean, it doesn't seem to be hitting as it did the first couple days. It's not bad, but it's not quite the powerhouse it was. Is there a particular reason why clean coils and wicks would perform sub-par? Do coils have a sort life even if "clean?" I have used the hell out of this coil over the past week FWIW.
This question is going to be really weird. For some reason, if I switch back to a regular 510 atty for a few hours, when I put the eBDP back on the ProVari, it won't screw all the way down. But, after a few fires, and un-screws and re-screws (that looks weird), it will screw all the way back down. What is going on with that connector? Any thoughts? Sorry if that last question is really bugged out.
What's your definition of low ohms? My coils are usually about 1.3-1.6 cause I just eyeball it. I just wrapped this one and it came out to 1.5
That's with 32awg and NR legs.
As for the 510 connection you go me to be honest. I've never had an issue, I just screw it down real tight, I'm not too worried cause the base of the Dripper stops it from going any further.
That's with 32awg and NR legs.
As for the 510 connection you go me to be honest. I've never had an issue, I just screw it down real tight, I'm not too worried cause the base of the Dripper stops it from going any further.
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