EHPro Bachelor RTA - single coil

[OhTheAgony]

That's some great info there @RabbiXX, thanks for taking the time to write all that down!

Anyways, I think you can get a great vape on a EHPro Bachelor rta with any of the mods containing one of these chips!

So nice of you to keep it on topic too

-Big. That VT75 Nano may be the only smallish mod you will ever be able to get with one of the more recent DNA chips if the FDA rules go through

I'm not in the US, so I'll be able to buy new stuff at least a little while longer then you guys...or send some over to friends in the US in discrete packaging if they ask nicely..

-I would like there be a dedicated menu system in the mod, rather than multiple combos of holding buttons down to change settings

This could be the one reason I will not like the DNA, I hope I can get over it but it appears pretty annoying to say the least.

Daniel (DJLsb) did the set up so it actually is usable out of the box.
I agree... that's a hit or miss area, though it seems to be getting better.

How good are the profiles he uses? I've heard he has the tendency to use some slightly off TCR values but haven't verified this myself yet.

I've downloaded some files from his website to install on the VT200 (gearbest flash-sale is extended for 3 more days by the way) when it arrives but wonder if I should use those first and get a bit familiar with the device or set up my own profiles right away.

I only really use titanium so I basically only need one profile to start with, lol

 

[Jim_ MDP]

How good are the profiles he uses? I've heard he has the tendency to use some slightly off TCR values but haven't verified this myself yet.

I've downloaded some files from his website to install on the VT200 (gearbest flash-sale is extended for 3 more days by the way) when it arrives but wonder if I should use those first and get a bit familiar with the device or set up my own profiles right away.

I only really use titanium so I basically only need one profile to start with, lol

You have several different topics there. Let me try it this way...

The titanium is just "the material", it's defined in Escribe by the TCR value or .csv curve assigned to that item (the mod will hold up to eight). I haven't looked at Daniel's but if they're not slightly customized, they're likely the .csv's available on Steam-Engine (or... I see he does/did have a preference for the TCR values instead).

Any material on the mod can be assigned to any of the profiles on the fly, and this is where I differ from the norm and want to investigate what Daniel has done with his SMY75 set-up.

I think the only two major functions you CANNOT access in the mod are the preheat and the selection of items for the 3-Line portion of the display. That second is more a personal annoyance.

But... the preheat. That's a stunningly major selling point of the DNA.
I'm not happy with the idea of having multiple "wire type" profiles which don't have widely differing preheat settings. Give me the preheats and I'll select the wire when I change types.

This should be even more applicable for someone who only expects to use a small number of wire types (I already know I'll have at least four).

"How good are Daniel's profiles?"
Well... I only have the SMY75 to go by on that. Two or three are taken up by Wattage Mode and a nod to the old DNA 40, but of the rest... they're a decent generic set covering the wattage of the mod but slightly oriented toward the higher end of the range (it's only a 75).

In case you're wondering... "preheat & punch" encompasses three factors.
The Wattage... usually higher than the main watts setting.
The Duration... default appears to be 1 second, though I don't know the accepted range.
Preheat Punch... this is the fun one. I'd like to hear confirmation, but I read it's the "stopping point" for the higher preheat wattage. From 110F below to 10F below the set main TC Temp, set as 1 "Soft" to 11 "Hard". Yes... it goes to "11".

I'll be "tuning" them for my needs, but they're a decent starting point.
It's the concept I'm interested in.

Or I could be barking up the wrong tree.

 

[OhTheAgony]

Woot, thanks for the elaborate reply!

Where to start....

I think the only two major functions you CANNOT access in the mod are the preheat and the selection of items for the 3-Line portion of the display. That second is more a personal annoyance

What do you mean with "the 3-line portion of the display"?

To be honest I have no interest at all in a preheat and/or a punch function and plan to turn it off completely. I prefer to play with the max. wattage instead to heat up my coil slow or quick depending on my mood. With the mods I've used so far adjusting the height of the max wattage can also really change the vape experience and I use this a lot to fine tune my vape-experience.

But do I understand you correctly in that I can't adjust the max wattage I'm vaping at in a TC mode without hooking the mod up to a computer? So one has to set up different profiles for different wattages in the same TC mode in order to change that?

Well... I only have the SMY75 to go by on that. Two or three are taken up by Wattage Mode and a nod to the old DNA 40, but of the rest... they're a decent generic set covering the wattage of the mod but slightly oriented toward the higher end of the range (it's only a 75).

Hmmm, sounds good enough to begin with at least. I do hope he didn't alter anything to the higher wattage capability of the 200 because I'm always below 40W myself, lol

 

[Jim_ MDP]

But do I understand you correctly in that I can't adjust the max wattage I'm vaping at in a TC mode without hooking the mod up to a computer?

No... only the Preheat&Punch function is set only within the Escribe software.

For each profile, you can preset it as well as Temp, Wattage, Wire Type (Material).
Then in the mod you can adjust power and temp, and change wire... but not preheat.

Hmmm, sounds good enough to begin with at least. I do hope he didn't alter anything to the higher wattage capability of the 200 because I'm always below 40W myself, lol

I haven't looked at any of the setups he has on his site.
You can install Escribe (if you haven't already) and have a look at them.
Get a feel for the app. Except for the graphing "Device Monitor"... that requires a mod.

 

[OhTheAgony]

ps: Good Nano crapped out on me today

It was working fine and then I took it off one mod to use it on another and since then it keeps giving "atomizer short" errors on all of my mods.

I tried a new build but that didn't change anything. I suspect a broken insulator somewhere but if anyone has any other things I should check please let me know, this is the first time I've encountered anything like this so any help would be appreciated.

 

[OhTheAgony]

No... only the Preheat&Punch function is set only within the Escribe software.

For each profile, you can preset it as well as Temp, Wattage, Wire Type (Material).
Then in the mod you can adjust power and temp, and change wire... but not preheat.

Ah good, that's a big relieve, lol.

Yeah, I've installed it and already have been playing with escribe. I plan to learn as much as possible before it gets here, might as well make the best of those long Asian shipping times

I had a quick look at his settings yesterday but couldn't find the TCR values he used. Or well, I thought I did but only saw some scribing that I couldn't make sense off, not the numerals we normally use. But I may have been looking in the wrong place, I'll check again later on.

 

[Jim_ MDP]

I suspect a broken insulator somewhere

Sounds about right.

I thought it was you who popped the pin to put in a copper shim. Maybe that was another atty.
I've got my un-built one here to examine... and I can't see a way to get the pin out, or the base disassembled.

 

[Jim_ MDP]

I had a quick look at his settings yesterday but couldn't find the TCR values he used. Or well, I thought I did but only saw some scribing that I couldn't make sense off, not the numerals we normally use. But I may have been looking in the wrong place, I'll check again later on.

If he used a TCR value, I'd presume he used the standard ones derived from materials analysis, but I didn't check the values in that chart on his DNA page.

Under the "Materials" tab if you look at the temp/res plot for each wire type... if there are multiple sections (like 4-8) then its a custom .csv slope. If there're only ~3 with a large one from 68F to 800F that's a linear TCR calculation.

But, like you... I can't find the TCR value associated with any of those.

 

[OhTheAgony]

Sounds about right.

I thought it was you who popped the pin to put in a copper shim. Maybe that was another atty.
I've got my un-built one here to examine... and I can't see a way to get the pin out, or the base disassembled.

Nah, that was me & on the Bachelors. Eventually I had to do that with all of them to get all my mods see them all the time.

I tried it without the shim on a Nugget but also got the atomizer short message.

I'll try some of my other bases but I expect it will leak with any of them. I'm still working on getting two more warranty replacements for two leaky .......s but without success there I suspect this will be the end of my Bachelor journey.

You can just grab the pin with tweezers or pliers -maybe your fingernails even- and pull it out, it's floating (I believe that's how they call this construction anyway) and only held in place by the insulator.

If he used a TCR value, I'd presume he used the standard ones derived from materials analysis, but I didn't check the values in that chart on his DNA page.

Under the "Materials" tab if you look at the temp/res plot for each wire type... if there are multiple sections (like 4-8) then its a custom .csv slope. If there're only ~3 with a large one from 68F to 800F that's a linear TCR calculation.

But, like you... I can't find the TCR value associated with any of those.

I think he uses custom setting then, here's a screenshot for the titanium one. At least, I think this is what you mean (the graph):



So we can't just type in a TCR value somewhere? Or are you just figuring out all this too?

Maybe we should continue this in a escribe-thread or something by the way, lol

 

[Jim_ MDP]

What do you mean with "the 3-line portion of the display"?

Crap... forgot to quote an reply to this.
On the display... the large number to the right is the "dominant" value. In each TC profile if you check the "Temp Dominant" box the set temp goes there. Otherwise, like for Power Mode, it shows the wattage selected.
On the left are three lines of values. In Escribe you can select from a list what you want displayed.

You can just grab the pin with tweezers or pliers -maybe your fingernails even- and pull it out, it's floating (I believe that's how they call this construction anyway) and only held in place by the insulator.

Yup, easy pull. It looked like a solid perhaps held by a deck screw and I didn't try getting a nail under an edge. Thanks.

here's a screenshot for the titanium one. At least, I think this is what you mean (the graph):

That's a .csv, see how it has multiple segments with "set points" of temp and resistance at the edges of each?
To set a straight TCR value... click the "Actions" button at the lower right.
But that won't tell you what has been entered before. The dialog box defaults to Ni's TCR.

 

[JeremyR]

Fresh Friday

2.5mm, 1.7 ohm triple 32 twisted around rayon.

Hitting it at 8.2v right now for 40w. Will go up to 9.2v on the i50, but don't think it will handle it. Lol

 

[RabbiXX]

Just one good one on 4 purchases plus a warranty replacement so far.

I hate hearing stuff like this. So far my first one seems to be working fine, but maybe I just got lucky.

I know from personal experience with my Kayfun (which also has juice flow control), that there is a real danger of tearing up your O-Rings if you try and operate the tank without first liberally lubing every single O-Ring with VG. So, before I ever used it, or played around with the tank in my hand, I did completely disassemble the Bachelor Pro Nano. I removed all the o-rings, and put it through the ultrasonic cleaner to make sure it was nice and clean. I liberally lubed up every o-ring my applying VG and rolling them around in my hand. I put all the o-rings back in place, and lubed them again with straight VG. Built a Ti coil, wicked, and reassembled. Filled the tank with juice and vaped.

I do the same procedure with any new RTA/RDA, but for tanks with stuff like juice flow control, I consider it absolutely mandatory. Still in the end, I may have just gotten lucky with my first tank...

 

[OhTheAgony]

Crap... forgot to quote an reply to this.
On the display... the large number to the right is the "dominant" value. In each TC profile if you check the "Temp Dominant" box the set temp goes there. Otherwise, like for Power Mode, it shows the wattage selected.
On the left are three lines of values. In Escribe you can select from a list what you want displayed.

Ah, got it. I'm gonna have to play around with that when it gets here. I hope I can use the large number for the temp in a TC mode, I think I've only seen watts in that position in every video I watched so far.

Yup, easy pull. It looked like a solid perhaps held by a deck screw and I didn't try getting a nail under an edge. Thanks.

That's a .csv, see how it has multiple segments with "set points" of temp and resistance at the edges of each?
To set a straight TCR value... click the "Actions" button at the lower right.
But that won't tell you what has been entered before. The dialog box defaults to Ni's TCR.

I think I'll just try his settings and adjust 'm a bit for my usage first, see how they work for me. The guy usually knows what he's talking about so who am I to question them, haha.

Thanks for the tips so far, I'll probably be back for more when I get the VT

I hate hearing stuff like this. So far my first one seems to be working fine, but maybe I just got lucky.

I know from personal experience with my Kayfun (which also has juice flow control), that there is a real danger of tearing up your O-Rings if you try and operate the tank without first liberally lubing every single O-Ring with VG. So, before I ever used it, or played around with the tank in my hand, I did completely disassemble the Bachelor Pro Nano. I removed all the o-rings, and put it through the ultrasonic cleaner to make sure it was nice and clean. I liberally lubed up every o-ring my applying VG and rolling them around in my hand. I put all the o-rings back in place, and lubed them again with straight VG. Built a Ti coil, wicked, and reassembled. Filled the tank with juice and vaped.

I do the same procedure with any new RTA/RDA, but for tanks with stuff like juice flow control, I consider it absolutely mandatory. Still in the end, I may have just gotten lucky with my first tank...

Well, it's now 5 out of 5 with the broken insulator or whatever is going on in there.

I really loved my one good one but I think I've finally had enough to move on to something more reliable.

Vendors seem pretty reluctant to warrant these as well. I'm in the middle of a paypal dispute with 3avape over one and I'm still talking to Gearbest about a replacement, but they keep coming up with things I may have done wrong causing it to leak so it's turning in to a pretty lengthy conversation now. I may have to start another paypal dispute if they keep being difficult, we'll see. I have spend over 75 euro's on useless Bachelors now and I'm determent to get at least some of that back.

edit: well, thumbs-up for Gearbest; they just offered me the choice between a free replacement Nano or a refund in store credit. I took the refund, no more leaky .......s for me!

I do not have a ultrasonic cleaner but just use old-fashioned dishes soap and hot water, but otherwise I have the same clenaing habits for new tanks.

Lubricating the o-rings isn't really necessary though. I did that the first time I used my Good Nano and it was the only time it was leaking a bit. Since then I just cleaned it, driy it and put it back together and it never leaked on me again. I do put a few drops of liquid on the o-ring in the chimney before putting it back together but leave the other ones dry. On my properly functioning Nano this has never caused any problems and it never ate any o-rings neither.

Don't get me started on the other ones though...

Good luck with your decision anyways. There are plenty of people here who have several well functioning Bachelors and Nano's, so it is possible...

 

[OhTheAgony]

Trying to find a solution for my leaking I read everything on FT discussions concerning Bachelors. That's where I found the link and heard they do not ship to the US. That's also where I found a size for the o-rings for the base/threads.

That's very kind of you! I'd be interested if there's enough of us to bring the cost down enough to justify it. The single small fat o-ring is of interested to me. I think it takes the abuse when opening and closing the JFC. I've already replaced the one that came on it because it was a little rough. I used one of the drip tip o-rings and it works great. Smoother and easier actually, and doesn't seem to have a negative effect, but having 'the right one' might be nice. Then of course the flat one. I haven't got around to ordering Buna-N sheets to try and make my own, and don't really want to. I'm already on the spare so if I don't do something, eventually this BN will be useless. Then I'll be getting another Tobeco Kayfun 5 I guess. Horrible of Ehpro to not offer replacement kits.

I would throw down for that o-ring set if there is enough interest. Just like the TFV4 my co worker has, I can see that o-ring failing eventually like his. Thanks. Other than that took mine on a short vacation and it didn't miss a beat. 101F weather and not a sign of a leak or flood because of the water like ejuice. JFC was fully open with 80vg\20pg, I was definitely impressed. Might have to get another, ugh, my wallet is so empty.

Ok, it's been a week and no one has responded but you two.

There are two things we can do:

1. I can place an order for you guys and send it to one of you when it gets here, adding 16 or 17 bucks for shipping in total (so you can divide that between the two of you).

2. Or if you can wait a few more weeks until I know for sure that I don't have to return what I have (I hear back from the paypal dispute before the 18th of August at the latest) you can pm me your address and I divide all the Bachelor o-rings I have out of the 4 that I still have here between the two of you and send you those since I won't be needing them myself any longer as I have no working Bachelor anymore. I'd offer you all the pieces of glass I have too but I'm not sure if they'll survive shipping in a padded envelope.


Just let me know what you want me to do.

 

[Jim_ MDP]

Ah, got it. I'm gonna have to play around with that when it gets here. I hope I can use the large number for the temp in a TC mode, I think I've only seen watts in that position in every video I watched so far.

Not in any TC Mode profile most likely.
For each profile, there's a "Temperature Dominant" checkbox near the middle.

Check it... and that profile will have the set temp in the large display position.
Some might prefer the set wattage there even in TC Mode, so it's an option.

 

[OhTheAgony]

Not in any TC Mode profile most likely.
For each profile, there's a "Temperature Dominant" checkbox near the middle.

Check it... and that profile will have the set temp in the large display position.
Some might prefer the set wattage there even in TC Mode, so it's an option.

Sounds great, thanks again. I can't wait to start playing with it now!

Is there a general DNA200 thread where we can discuss things in the future? The dedicated VT200 is closed down unfortunately, and I'm unsure about starting a new one. It's a relative old mod already & the thread for it must have died for a reason.

 

[Jim_ MDP]

Sounds great, thanks again. I can't wait to start playing with it now!

Is there a general DNA200 thread where we can discuss things in the future? The dedicated VT200 is closed down unfortunately, and I'm unsure about starting a new one. It's a relative old mod already & the thread for it must have died for a reason.

Come join us in the VT133 thread "over here" (the board which must not be named).

A few of the HCigar owners (and we discuss the various 75W mods too) also have the HotCig DX200. And post when it goes back on sale at Ecig.
It's actually even more regularly derailed than our Bachelor thread here.

 

[Cirus]

Ok, it's been a week and no one has responded but you two.

There are two things we can do:

1. I can place an order for you guys and send it to one of you when it gets here, adding 16 or 17 bucks for shipping in total (so you can divide that between the two of you).

2. Or if you can wait a few more weeks until I know for sure that I don't have to return what I have (I hear back from the paypal dispute before the 18th of August at the latest) you can pm me your address and I divide all the Bachelor o-rings I have out of the 4 that I still have here between the two of you and send you those since I won't be needing them myself any longer as I have no working Bachelor anymore. I'd offer you all the pieces of glass I have too but I'm not sure if they'll survive shipping in a padded envelope.


Just let me know what you want me to do.

Thanks again for offerring but I think I'll pass. If several others joined in I'd do it. Mine has started leaking at times. The build is still the same and the only thing moved is the JFC and Top Fill, so I don't know if there's something going on inside as a result of turning the JFC or if the top white fill seal isn't sealing. It's not a bad leak at all, but still annoying. Eight out of ten fills it doesn't leak at all, then all of a sudden it does. Frustrating. This black Tobeco Kayfun v5 clone has been so flawless and easy I'm just going to stick with it and will probably get another.

 

[OhTheAgony]

Come join us in the VT133 thread "over here" (the board which must not be named).

A few of the HCigar owners (and we discuss the various 75W mods too) also have the HotCig DX200. And post when it goes back on sale at Ecig.
It's actually even more regularly derailed than our Bachelor thread here.

The buried one you mean? I've lurked there for a bit but I'm kind of a one-forum guy.

I guess we can just keep on derailing this one then, no one seems to mind anyway

Thanks again for offerring but I think I'll pass. If several others joined in I'd do it. Mine has started leaking at times. The build is still the same and the only thing moved is the JFC and Top Fill, so I don't know if there's something going on inside as a result of turning the JFC or if the top white fill seal isn't sealing. It's not a bad leak at all, but still annoying. Eight out of ten fills it doesn't leak at all, then all of a sudden it does. Frustrating. This black Tobeco Kayfun v5 clone has been so flawless and easy I'm just going to stick with it and will probably get another.

No problem. I'm waiting on a SJMY Kayfun V5 clone myself actually, and I've also just ordered a Joyetech Ultimo to try out the ceramic coil. The SXK Kayfun V5 mini clone also looks tempting but I'm gonna try the full size version first to see how I'll like it. And I think there's also a Merlin in my future even though I think they're ....-ugly, lol

On another note, I had already forgot about them, but the FT o-rings came in today. They looked a bit larger then the originals and fit slightly loose, but I am vaping of a completely dry black Nano right now!

I still have to test it a bit more because I've just put it together, but normally it would have already leaked by now so that's progress at least.

Odd thing though, I wanted to try the o-rings on my full size Bachelor first but that deck also keeps giving me atomizer short errors now for some reason. Very strange, since good Nano shorted out too yesterday. I'll try to pull the bases apart to see if I can get some idea of what's going on inside.

I still have one more Nano to try the o-rings on though, maybe I'll get to that one tomorrow. With recent developments I have the feeling that the other ones will short out too sooner or later but we'll see.

 

[JeremyR]

I had just ordered the orings from fasttech too. Good to hear they are working.. Albeit a little loose but holding.

Sounds like a problem with what the bachelor is doing to your mods 510. Maybe too long. Don't screw it down too tight.. This used to be a big problem back in the day and the word was don't tighten all the way down. Try it and see if it works without short.