Eleaf iStick : part 2
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LOL, she told me to tell you, "hell yea!".
I love to cook but hate cleaning up after. She's willing to do all the clean up as long as I'm cooking. A perfect match.
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Sounds good.Roasted chicken, Morrocan-spiced lentils with Basmati rice, roasted carrots with cumin, a nice chunk of homemade harissa, and a small salad with feta cheese. The smell....oh, the smell!
After the weddin it'll be microwave Spanish rice and Walmart chicken on a paper plate...Sounds good.
That's more of what it's like here when the girlfriend isn't over.
Thanks I hadn't seen that before.
Some good background on the character. Like everyone else, I didn't know it was him playing Karl till the credits rolled the first time.
Fires for up to 20 seconds
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Wotofo Freak Show Tiny 60W Temp Control! Limited Release!
Expected Release to Vapor Tek USA AUGUST 20TH
Wotofo contacted us tonight regarding their new temp control box mod! We are really excited about this product as Wotofo is well known for very high quality products. We are lucky enough to be a part of the first 500 pcs that will be released across the world!
1. Wotofo Authentic TC Box mod ; ( 5-60W, 200 F-600F)
Temp Mode: 0.1ohm - 1.0ohm
Power Mode: 0.3ohm - 2.5ohm
2. Real Temp Control, Best Chip in the market. Keep Constant temperature while vaping
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I've been having a problem with my iStick 30 lately and I'm hoping someone can suggest a simple fix.
I usually run one of two GS Air MS tanks or a Lemo Drop on my iStick 30. Recently both MS tanks trigger the "Atomizer Short" warning when screwed in flush with the iStick's top cap. If I back either of them out just a tad - I dunno, maybe 20-30 degrees - the iStick reads the resistance and fires the tanks fine, but the tanks are loose and shaky on the 510 threads.
One of the MS tanks starts working fine after firing it for a bit - even if I thereafter tighten it up so that it is flush with the iSticks top cap. The other MS does not correct itself so I have to run it with an AFC connector between the iStick and the tank. I push the slightly adjustable (movable) pin of the AFC connector as high up as I can, mount the AFC on the iStick, then attach the MS tank.
The first time I encountered the problem with the iStick's floating pin was with the Lemo Drop a few months ago. Luckily the Drop has an adjustable positive connector pin and works fine once I screwed the pin further into the Drop's base. However, I had to screw it in far enough that the positive pin sits completely inside of the threads (i.e. the Lemo's threads extend beyond the positive pin). It doesn't seem like the safest solution to me, but it works fine.
Any suggestions? (I've been hesitant to try the 40 TC, as I've had my share of problems with my iSticks...)
I usually run one of two GS Air MS tanks or a Lemo Drop on my iStick 30. Recently both MS tanks trigger the "Atomizer Short" warning when screwed in flush with the iStick's top cap. If I back either of them out just a tad - I dunno, maybe 20-30 degrees - the iStick reads the resistance and fires the tanks fine, but the tanks are loose and shaky on the 510 threads.
One of the MS tanks starts working fine after firing it for a bit - even if I thereafter tighten it up so that it is flush with the iSticks top cap. The other MS does not correct itself so I have to run it with an AFC connector between the iStick and the tank. I push the slightly adjustable (movable) pin of the AFC connector as high up as I can, mount the AFC on the iStick, then attach the MS tank.
The first time I encountered the problem with the iStick's floating pin was with the Lemo Drop a few months ago. Luckily the Drop has an adjustable positive connector pin and works fine once I screwed the pin further into the Drop's base. However, I had to screw it in far enough that the positive pin sits completely inside of the threads (i.e. the Lemo's threads extend beyond the positive pin). It doesn't seem like the safest solution to me, but it works fine.
Any suggestions? (I've been hesitant to try the 40 TC, as I've had my share of problems with my iSticks...)
It's about the same size as the iStick 40w, which is surprising. Could be a game changer for TC mods if it works decently, but still costs more than twice as much as the iStick 40w. Still cheaper than a DNA 40 or SX Mini.
Sorry Jumpin In', I couldn't help you. I thought the whole point of the spring loaded 510 pin was to be able to adjust to different tank depths. I've never had problem with no atomizer on any of my iSticks.
But actually I take that back. When I first got my 30w, I think it wouldn't fire my really old and abused protank airflow control valve (base). I popped open a new one and it's been working fine on all my tanks ever since (2 kayfuns, 3 protanks, 1 Lemo, 1 Subtank, 1 Mutation Dripper).
Only thing I would suggest is to keep all your contact areas clean, and maybe if you have an adjustible 510 on any of the tanks, to tighten it in a little bit.
May be a worn grommet under the pin allowin it to short out when pushed down far enough. I haven't had that problem yet, but I know some 20 watts did (they have a fixed pin). I did have one 30 that would cut off when you screwed an atty on. It turned out to be a piece of metal thread material in the 510 connector.
The 30 DOES have a spring loaded pin, but that does not preclude the possibility of damaging the pin or of foreign matter clogging the pin.
Perhaps a q-tip slightly dampened in running alcohol (while the mod is off) would clean the area enough to allow the pin to function normally again...
I had a GS Air tank to get stuck on an istick mini over the weekend. I had to use pliers to get it loose. I think at some point the tank had leaked a bit at the pin and then dried. Cleaned it all up, put the same tank back on it.
Going home tonight after work for biscuits and sausage gravy!
The wife is supposedly making it the way Ree Drummond does so it should be excellent! I said she should look up how Damaris Phillips makes it but I imagine it will be great any way at all!
The wife is supposedly making it the way Ree Drummond does so it should be excellent! I said she should look up how Damaris Phillips makes it but I imagine it will be great any way at all!
Silly boy. Beer comes from a tap. This comes from making a beer run!
Er... or maybe I meant ruBBing alcohol... dunno...
Likely not, but if juice got in there and dried, or a metal thread shaving, or just some pocket lint...
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