Eleaf iStick "pico"
- Thread starter USMCotaku
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
When I first got my Pico I had it set in ti tc. Coil was .35 and it was set to 420. I changed the battery and went to take a hit, SURPRISE !!!!!! I just hit the button and knew some thing wasn't right. It had glitched into Ni mode. Set it back ti and went on my happy way.
Just saying.
Just saying.
Kind of like my last one when it glitched in fire mode. I had to pull the battery to make it stop.
I've been using a Pico for some months in TC mode, 400 degrees,, 30 max watts, .97 ohm coild. Lately it is slipping into watts mode and won't stay in TC mode until I disconnect and reconnect the battery. I believe this behavior has been discussed previously. Is there a list of possible causes and some most likely ones. Thanks in advance for any assistance.
Ummmm... Big question. Is the Pico supposed to get hot enough at 30w to MELT I mean completely melt 28g ss wire? Because I totally just did that trying to dry burn my coil.
You forgot to add how long you held the ON BUTTON?
Did you pulse, hold it for 1 minute, two, etc.?
If the answer was "pulse", then I would say no, but I have only used 26 g. SS, and of course 28 g. is thinner. I'm sure someone using that gauge can offer some insight. I have melted and had titanium wire catch fire briefly, but it was a very thin gauge and I quickly learned my lesson as I was stomping it out on the floor!
I held it for maybe a good 4 seconds and on the second 4 second hold it went kerplunk into a puddle like form. LolYou forgot to add how long you held the ON BUTTON?
Did you pulse, hold it for 1 minute, two, etc.?
If the answer was "pulse", then I would say no, but I have only used 26 g. SS, and of course 28 g. is thinner. I'm sure someone using that gauge can offer some insight. I have melted and had titanium wire catch fire briefly, but it was a very thin gauge and I quickly learned my lesson as I was stomping it out on the floor!
Last edited:
I would think it should not melt in 4 seconds, a long drag could be longer and hen 4 seconds. So assuming you were using either the built in SS preset, or a "correct" TCR value, then there are only two suspects left, the WIRE, or your mod. Are you 100% sure you have real 316L wire from a reputable company, or was it from an inexpensive Chinese site? If you rule out the wire, then it's time for a DNA device.
I forgot to mention the short 30w burn I did before. I was trying to clean the wire in the mod and burnt the hell out of the silica wick. Thats what lead me to dry burn. I never knew this stuff melted so easilly, but then again it is pretty thin wire.
Sent from my SM-T230 using Tapatalk
Dusted off the FeV3 and put in a new 24g SS316L build. I have not used the flashi in quite a while, and it is good to come back to that very enjoyable vape. One of the best RTAs ever designed IMHO. 
Having more issues with it loosing connection with the coil resistance. Keeps going to 0 again. Going to hook it up to multimeter and see if it happens. I just need to save for a DNA 75....
i am reporting that i have bought 5 picos and still have 5 in my arsenal. all working great in TC using SS.
the thing now, i was a Ti fanatic a while back until i have the feeling that ANY Ti wire sold (in my city, at least) are not as good as it should be. yes even for an imported item most of the Ti wire brand are a bit on the cheap side, and in time i always found that my Ti wire (even in its unopened plastic wrap) have some discoloration on the strand, and guess what, when i build spaced coil even in a considerably low wattage like 3watt, that discoloration areas create hots spot like in an instance.
thats why i moved to SS and i am a happy vaper, locked or unlocked.
oh btw this inconsistencies on Ti wires are also found on ALL my other mods like my two evic vtc minis, smok r80, eStick TC40w, TC100w, cloupor mini+, in its stock Ti mode OR TCR mode (using any Ti TCR values found webwide)
BUT strangely those Ti wires seems work ok and consistent in my vs rdna40 in nickel mode (with limitation since its Ni mode but it vapes nice)
i don't have dna200 or even dna75 to reconfirm, i am too poor
so then. until i found a descent Ti wire in sold in my area or my country, i won't bother using Ti
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
the thing now, i was a Ti fanatic a while back until i have the feeling that ANY Ti wire sold (in my city, at least) are not as good as it should be. yes even for an imported item most of the Ti wire brand are a bit on the cheap side, and in time i always found that my Ti wire (even in its unopened plastic wrap) have some discoloration on the strand, and guess what, when i build spaced coil even in a considerably low wattage like 3watt, that discoloration areas create hots spot like in an instance.
thats why i moved to SS and i am a happy vaper, locked or unlocked.
oh btw this inconsistencies on Ti wires are also found on ALL my other mods like my two evic vtc minis, smok r80, eStick TC40w, TC100w, cloupor mini+, in its stock Ti mode OR TCR mode (using any Ti TCR values found webwide)
BUT strangely those Ti wires seems work ok and consistent in my vs rdna40 in nickel mode (with limitation since its Ni mode but it vapes nice)
i don't have dna200 or even dna75 to reconfirm, i am too poor
so then. until i found a descent Ti wire in sold in my area or my country, i won't bother using Ti
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I did figure out the latest issue. The grub screws somehow worked their way loose. Just tightened them back up and it was working again.
Is that tank just sitting on a bunch of spacers?????Dusted off the FeV3 and put in a new 24g SS316L build. I have not used the flashi in quite a while, and it is good to come back to that very enjoyable vape. One of the best RTAs ever designed IMHO.
I'm replying to my own post about a problem to follow up. I keep two rigs in service. A pico and a VTC mini. Each has an SVA rda on top. one is for my regular vape, the other uses a 100% PG liquid for stealth situations. The builds on the two SV's are both 28 guage stainless. One is 1.3 ohm, the other is .95 ohm. I swapped the atomizers and the Pico hasn't dropped out of TC mode since. The VTC mini is behaving normally with the rda that appeared to make problems for the Pico. No answers but it's a relief that the Pico is back to normal. I'm planning to stockpile some picos for the long run.
The Genelocity's are Velocity decked versions of German Stil Vapor's Genius².
I love the industrial look too!
I love the industrial look too!
since eleaf put out a firmware file for the pico a while back, has anyone used the FW editor to any extent customizing their pico? i don't even use mine anymore so i'm less nervous about screwing something up now, but would like to play with the software.
Can you link the FW editor? I haven't hear of it, but I would probably try to mess with it. (probably break it too)
- Status
Similar threads
