Eleaf iStick "pico"
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Hello
I just recently lost my battery for my 6 month old iPico iStick that I got recommended in a shop while on vacation. I bought a new battery from a site that I've previously ordered ejuices from and a lot of my friends said it's a good site as well so I thought ''Hey what could go wrong?''. When I plugged it in with my vape it said ''Device too hot'' so I thought I must've broken my current iPico as the battery was brand new so I bought another iPico from the same site. The battery didn't work on it eitherand showed up as ''Device too hot'' so I contacted them regarding the battery and they promised to send another.
I currently have two new batteries (given to me by a friend who ordered too many), two iPico vapes and neither of the batteries seem to work in the iPicos. Both of them show up as ''Device too hot'' and I've used a trusty charger and a new one, both connected to my laptop while trying to charge them. All of the batteries should've been compatible with them according to the store.
Not sure what to do, they're sending a new iPico and battery so I can return the ones who doesn't seem to work but I'm not sure what the problem is. When I put the empty shell without an atomizer or battery in, it shows up with the max settings and wattage. When I put in the new batteries, it says there's batteries in it that are fully charged but won't light up because there's no atomizer. When I put on the atomizer, the battery is empty, the screen flashes and when it try to fire it up it says ''Device is too hot'' and if I change the wattage, it hoes back to what it was before the screen begun to flicker.
What should I do?
whoa ! a lot going on here...
PICTURES - I'd like to SEE the batteries you're using
and then; YOU ARE putting them in (+) side down >into the PICO - right ?
can only say it sure seems a strange phenomenon for all this trouble from so many PICOs & batteries & atomizers
we'd all love to help, so better descriptions and some pictures is a must so we can solve all issues...
and welcome to the club
The cutout on the tank would rotate as you screw it on/off, meaning that the battery cap would get in the way. If you screw the tank on first the cutout will stay in the correct place and the battery cap can easily be screwed on/offThanks, but I feel kinda stupid as I do not understand why, but I guess would have understood if I dremeled it.
Sent from my M7_PLUS using Tapatalk
Thank you, I am putting them in right and I've been using two LG HG2 INR18650 High Drain Flat Top (3000mah, 20A) and one Sony VTC4 IMR 18650 High Drain Flat top (2100mAh, 30A). I've currently been offered a new mod and battery so I'm going to check if that one's faulty.whoa ! a lot going on here...
PICTURES - I'd like to SEE the batteries you're using
and then; YOU ARE putting them in (+) side down >into the PICO - right ?
View attachment 614803
can only say it sure seems a strange phenomenon for all this trouble from so many PICOs & batteries & atomizers
we'd all love to help, so better descriptions and some pictures is a must so we can solve all issues...
and welcome to the club
OK cool... (had to ask)
so I got nothing other than to say maybe your unit(s) are bad (yeah lame)
Pico has had a solid performance record and those batteries are about the best to be had...
keep us in the loop so we know what's going on - good luck
Just updated Firmware from v1.00 to 1.03 because I absolutely love preheat mode. However the interface is absolutely rubbish. In wattage (and so preheat) mode you don't get any live reading on the screen anymore because of that stupid time bar. In temp mode you now get live voltage instead of wattage.
What were you thinking eleaf? Just bring back 1.00 interface with 1.03 features!!!
What were you thinking eleaf? Just bring back 1.00 interface with 1.03 features!!!
You do know there's three different interfaces available?
One of them is just like 1.00 if I remember correctly.
Edit: I guess you're correct, the time bar does come up when you're firing. It's been a while since I've used 1.00. Was that not the case with that version?
Instructions on Firmware V1.03
Switching interfaces:
In power-on state:
1. Choose VW mode;
2. Keep holding “+” and fire buttons till the current interface flashes;
3. When it’s flashing, press “+”or “-” button to switch among different interfaces;
4. Press fire button once to confirm the interface you chose.
Note: the interfaces can only be changed and selected under VW mode in power-on
state. And when one interface is selected under VW mode, the interface of TC (Ni, Ti,
SS, M1, M2, M3) modes will change accordingly and automatically.
Preheat function:
In power-off state:
1. Keep holding “+” and fire buttons till the M1 mode appears;
2. Press the fire button 3 times to “Power”, and press “+”or “-” button to adjust the
wattage of preheat;
3. Press the fire button again to “Time”, and press “+”or “-” button to adjust the
second of preheat or to turn off the preheat function.
One of them is just like 1.00 if I remember correctly.
Edit: I guess you're correct, the time bar does come up when you're firing. It's been a while since I've used 1.00. Was that not the case with that version?
Instructions on Firmware V1.03
Switching interfaces:
In power-on state:
1. Choose VW mode;
2. Keep holding “+” and fire buttons till the current interface flashes;
3. When it’s flashing, press “+”or “-” button to switch among different interfaces;
4. Press fire button once to confirm the interface you chose.
Note: the interfaces can only be changed and selected under VW mode in power-on
state. And when one interface is selected under VW mode, the interface of TC (Ni, Ti,
SS, M1, M2, M3) modes will change accordingly and automatically.
Preheat function:
In power-off state:
1. Keep holding “+” and fire buttons till the M1 mode appears;
2. Press the fire button 3 times to “Power”, and press “+”or “-” button to adjust the
wattage of preheat;
3. Press the fire button again to “Time”, and press “+”or “-” button to adjust the
second of preheat or to turn off the preheat function.
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I do, however none of those act like the v-1.00 interface. As I stated above the stupid timer bar in wattage mode prevents access to live readings including preheat. In temp mode there is no more live wattage reading.
I'm not sure if you could see the pre-heat anyway. I have it set for 1 second on my DNA and I can't see it displayed.
It was a digit timer afaik, but now as you mention it could be true it was a full screen timer as well.
Anyway, having preheat feature now I would expect it to show the live wattage so you can actually see it making the switch from preheat to normal wattage (much like the eVics). There is no way to know your preheat settings unless you switch off the device and access the menu, which is bad enough should you want to change the setting.
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You should be able to feel the preheat kick out and normal power take over while you are vaping...
I don't know about the Pico, because I haven't played with it much, but with my DNA I can't really detect any change. It's only set for 1 second and I'm at my temp at somewhere around 1.5 seconds. I only know for sure that it's working because I can see it on Escribe.
I use the preheat on my Cuboid to spin up the heavy build in my 30mm Temple RDA quicker.
A 1/2 second of 160W PH throttling back to 120W, you can definitely feel it in the vape.
A 1/2 second of 160W PH throttling back to 120W, you can definitely feel it in the vape.
By that logic you wouldn't need any wattage display and just push buttons till you like the vape.
There is a display for PH value when you set it up and the display for your wattage is always available...
I put a single KA1 fused Clapton in an RTA, at 50W its a nice vape but the ramp up time is a little slow. I set preheat for 70W@1/2 second and it makes the vape perfect.
So yeah the only wattage display I need is when I set the value at the start and maybe a little fine tuning to find the sweet spot. Sorry, I don't understand this need for a real time display on a screen that I can't see while vaping.
I have had my Pico "not" stop firing after I released the button, twice now. Both times I pulled the battery out and put it back in and it worked properly again. Both times, perhaps just a coincidence, when I put the battery back in, I noticed that the battery bar was all the way down, or close to it (3.5V-ish on my charger). Anyone have this happen before?
I did a search and found one person on VU and a couple on FT that were reporting the same issue and on all counts it was when the battery was low. It's only done it for me since I updated to V1.03. If it happens again I might try going back to the V1.02.
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