Eleaf Istick

[Zelphie]

If they taste burnt after a day of use, then the problem is not incorrect voltage output--that's sounds more like a wicking issue. Maybe you're using dark, sweet juices? Do you chain vape? Take very long drags?

If the voltage is too high for your particular atty, usually you'll know right away--not after a day of vaping. I'm using a 1.5Ω dual coil atty in my Kanger Emow tank at 3 Eleaf volts and I'm getting a delightful vape. Before that I used a 1.8Ω dual coil in an Aerotank at 3.5v and it was really nice, too. I haven't tried any single-coil atties on the iStick yet. I don't think I have any 3Ω coils in my stash.

BTW, in case you didn't know--the DNA 30 does not step down either: the lowest voltage you can choose on the DNA devices is 4v, if I remember correctly. But, of course, Brandon's chipsets are calibrated correctly.

Hi Kat!

Hi Kat!

Ive been wondering, but cant decipher the gibberish Im finding. What does step down mean, and what does it mean when a device doesn't step down.

 

[SmokinRabbit]

I will add to the convo and say I have a much better experience overall with the iStick when I use coils at about 1.8-2.2 ohm. Anything lower just burns too hot (in Nautilus Mini o Aerotank)

 

[KTMRider]

ah ok, maybe she wouldnt notice that extra .2 ohms lol.

My KF's at 1.5-1.7Ω are awesome with rayon wicks. I'm vaping at 6.5w now with a 1.7Ω.

I guess I'm one of the lucky ones. No problems so far, about a month in

I really don't have any problems either. The center pin isn't much of an issue if I only use one tank.

 

[Zelphie]

Oh and

( just testing smilies)

 

[KTMRider]

Hi Kat!

Ive been wondering, but cant decipher the gibberish Im finding. What does step down mean, and what does it mean when a device doesn't step down.

LiIon batteries (and Lipo's) are at 4.2v when fully charged. The circuits will only fire at the voltage of the battery and not step down to a lower voltage (like 3v). They use capacitors to raise the volts but can't fire lower.

 

[donf99]

Greetings, all,

I posted an easy mean power to RMS power conversion formula over on the New Members forum. It allows easy conversion from the displayed settings on the Istick to the equivalent RMS power without a lot of difficult math or charts.

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...istick-easy-mean-rms-conversion-formulas.html

I do have a link to a power chart there that shows mean vs. RMS power using the simplified formula for a few coil resistances. I can almost do the calculation it in my head!

Best regards,

Don

 

[aldenf]

So im considering picking up an istick for my g/f after her T8 i got her just last week wont turn on. Hindsight i regret buying her and myself a cloupor t8 just cause she only uses a kayfun and doesnt need something soo beefy.


How long is the battery life on a .85ohm coil running at 19-20watts?

Because of the amperage limitation of the chipset, to reach 20w, you need a 1.5Ω build. I run my Kayfuns and Erlkonigin between 1.4 & 1.6 and have never wished for more power.

 

[Amy87]

FINALLY my isticks arrived today Ten full days after I got my tracking number.

Anyway, the most I have experience with is ego bats with Evod clearos, so here are my observations from someone who doesn't know the first thing about watts, volts, charts, sub-ohms etc...

Topped it with a new mini Nautilus (my first non-evod style clearo!), put a cute red stubby drip tip on to match my cute red istick, set it to the lowest setting, and received the greatest taste and throat hit of my vaping career

I also tested an evod clearo, I have about 30 of these and a ton of single kanger coils that I rebuild, and I'd hate for them to sit around not getting any use. Anyway, it worked just fine with the Evod. No burnt hits at all, and terrific throat hit.

My only negative observation is really about the mini-naughty, not the istick, and thats about how quickly it uses up juice. A full evod with much smaller capacity lasts me several hours to a whole day, depending on what I'm doing that day. I used up half a tank on the naughty in about two hours of light to moderate use. I do like the taste & kick of the BVC's though, so I've ordered a couple of the new aspire K1's. I like the nautilus, and have even ordered a couple of the nice SS tanks for it, but I think on most days I would prefer the smaller form factor of the K1.

So far it the istick gets two thumbs up from me, but I did just get them today, so we will see how it goes from here.

 

[KTMRider]

FINALLY my isticks arrived today Ten full days after I got my tracking number.

Anyway, the most I have experience with is ego bats with Evod clearos, so here are my observations from someone who doesn't know the first thing about watts, volts, charts, sub-ohms etc...

Topped it with a new mini Nautilus (my first non-evod style clearo!), put a cute red stubby drip tip on to match my cute red istick, set it to the lowest setting, and received the greatest taste and throat hit of my vaping career

I also tested an evod clearo, I have about 30 of these and a ton of single kanger coils that I rebuild, and I'd hate for them to sit around not getting any use. Anyway, it worked just fine with the Evod. No burnt hits at all, and terrific throat hit.

My only negative observation is really about the mini-naughty, not the istick, and thats about how quickly it uses up juice. A full evod with much smaller capacity lasts me several hours to a whole day, depending on what I'm doing that day. I used up half a tank on the naughty in about two hours of light to moderate use. I do like the taste & kick of the BVC's though, so I've ordered a couple of the new aspire K1's. I like the nautilus, and have even ordered a couple of the nice SS tanks for it, but I think on most days I would prefer the smaller form factor of the K1.

So far it the istick gets two thumbs up from me, but I did just get them today, so we will see how it goes from here.

If you rebuild, you really should try a Kayfun. They hold 4.5ml of juice.

 

[shack22]

I've been using Protanks with the Eleaf 510-Ego adapter to avoid issues with the iStick threads for a month and that was working fine until the last few days. Now the Pro Tanks won't screw onto the adapter. I can screw the tanks directly into the device fine but I'm worried about stripping the threads. The adapter works with an Iclear 30 and some old carto tanks I tried. Seems like it's a PT--adapter issue.. Anyone else have this problem?

 

[Silver5656]

so i've had 2 isticks for a little over a month, both running mini's most of the time. I have also had the phantom button issue. Also, once in a while, while charging the device gets warm. This happens about once every 10 charges or so? I twist off/on the mini at least 2x a day and have noticed the threading issue. I do clean the threads about 1x a week but I do notice the black gunk (which I assume is a combination of dust and metal shavings). I do not know if the threads will last a year.

 

[tiburonfirst]

Greetings, all,

I posted an easy mean power to RMS power conversion formula over on the New Members forum. It allows easy conversion from the displayed settings on the Istick to the equivalent RMS power without a lot of difficult math or charts.

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...istick-easy-mean-rms-conversion-formulas.html

I do have a link to a power chart there that shows mean vs. RMS power using the simplified formula for a few coil resistances. I can almost do the calculation it in my head!

Best regards,

Don

here's don's chart

 

[Katya]

Hi Kat!

Ive been wondering, but cant decipher the gibberish Im finding. What does step down mean, and what does it mean when a device doesn't step down.

KTM beat me to it.

IOW, the lowest voltage output from your iStick is 4.2v (or so).

Random thoughts: I ran a little comparison vape test of my iStick and my ProVari, Sigelei Zmax and MVP2 (same 1.8Ω coil) and the results were baffling. Every hit at 4.2v on ProVari, Zmax and MVP were exactly the same every single time, they were not the same on the Stick; the Stick's hits seem to vary at 3v--some are hotter, some are cooler, I even got a few hot juice squirts. The difference between those hits is not big, but it is noticeable. Again, I only tested it at 3v--it's quite possible that since the regulation does not occur at all at lower voltages, the battery does pretty much what it wants to do there. Pure speculation on my part. I haven't tested higher ranges because I don't own any toppers that can take a lot of wattage.

Oh, thank you all for pointing out the dead (phantom) button hits. Happened to me too, and, of course, my first instinct was to tighten the topper to make a connection.

 

[Kent C]

here's don's chart

I must not understand. I thought Phil said that the Eleaf running Mean is running hotter than the equivalent RMS. Here at 3.0 reading the Mean is 5+ Watts and the RMS is 10+ Watts (at 1.5Ω)???

 

[KTMRider]

KTM beat me to it.

IOW, the lowest voltage output from your iStick is 4.2v (or so).

Random thoughts: I ran a little comparison vape test of my iStick and my ProVari, Sigelei Zmax and MVP2 (same 1.8Ω coil) and the results were baffling. Every hit at 4.2v on ProVari, Zmax and MVP were exactly the same every single time, they were not the same on the Stick; the Stick's hits seem to vary at 3v--some are hotter, some are cooler, I even got a few hot juice squirts. The difference between those hits is not big, but it is noticeable. Again, I only tested it at 3v--it's quite possible that since the regulation does not occur at all at lower voltages, the battery does pretty much what it wants to do there. Pure speculation on my part. I haven't tested higher ranges because I don't own any toppers that can take a lot of wattage.

Oh, thank you all for pointing out the dead (phantom) button hits. Happened to me too, and, of course, my first instinct was to tighten the topper to make a connection.

My guess as to why the Istick feels like it's going up and down is that when you take the first drag, it drains the battery a bit but lowers the voltage of the battery and when you take the 2nd hit, the battery doesn't have enough time to stabilize so it hits lower. Then it catches up on the 3rd hit. Might be a sign of a weak battery. The best analogy I can think of is when you have a dying/dead battery in a flash light. When you use it and it goes out, the battery is dead. If you wait a few seconds/minutes and then try to turn it on, it will light up again but still dim because the battery had time to stabilize. This shouldn't be happening in LiIon batteries but the symptoms seem to point that way. I'm sure they're not using high quality batteries in these things. Then again, they're built to a price point. Another reason I'll be swapping out the battery.

 

[Katya]

My guess as to why the Istick feels like it's going up and down is that when you take the first drag, it drains the battery a bit but lowers the voltage of the battery and when you take the 2nd hit, the battery doesn't have enough time to stabilize so it hits lower. Then it catches up on the 3rd hit. Might be a sign of a weak battery. The best analogy I can think of is when you have a dying/dead battery in a flash light. When you use it and it goes out, the battery is dead. If you wait a few seconds/minutes and then try to turn it on, it will light up again but still dim because the battery had time to stabilize. This shouldn't be happening in LiIon batteries but the symptoms seem to point that way. I'm sure they're not using high quality batteries in these things. Then again, they're built to a price point. Another reason I'll be swapping out the battery.

I don't understand it at all. And my batteries were all fully charged. So it's not even like vaping a mech (or any unregulated battery). It's totally bizarre.

 

[Katya]

The Nautilus Mini is the natural fit for the iStick...I'd love it if my iStick performed better. It does look great and seems to be the perfect tank for it. Here is the direct link to that base: Electronic Cigarette - Best Electronic Cigarette - Vapor Cigarette Buy the Best Nautilus Mini Base Hardware from www.evape.us It is the only place I could find it besides the Aspire store...but their combined price and shipping makes it less attractive than evape's.

A question to all of you Nautilus fans.

Has anyone seen/used those Aspire coils modded by Cisco? They look very interesting, but only one review so far. However, if those coil heads are as good as his atties, that would be a solution for me (and others who have doubts about the stupid fiberglass wicks that Aspire is using in their BVC coils).

http://www.avidvaper.com/aspire-nautilus-cisco-spec-hh-replacement-coils/

What do you guys think? Good idea? Bad idea?

 

[tiburonfirst]

I must not understand. I thought Phil said that the Eleaf running Mean is running hotter than the equivalent RMS. Here at 3.0 reading the Mean is 5+ Watts and the RMS is 10+ Watts (at 1.5Ω)???

i gave that some thought too, kent! i think if the mean shows 5 watts on the istick it would translate to 10 watts with rms which is the measuring system we are used to

this chart is supposed to help you figure out the istick settings you need to get the equivalent of your rms settings you are familiar with

 

[JohnDoses]

I see that you are using the Hollowed replacement tube. You might be interested to know that you can get the Nautilus Mini base separately and make fully functional tanks with those glass tanks if you aren't using them. I did just that with the base I bought from evape.us.

Thank you for this! I have a T tank sitting around that came as a replacement tank when I ordered my mini, I never even thought to look for just the base. Now I will have two Nautilus Mini's!

 

[Woofer]

KTM beat me to it.

IOW, the lowest voltage output from your iStick is 4.2v (or so).

Random thoughts: I ran a little comparison vape test of my iStick and my ProVari, Sigelei Zmax and MVP2 (same 1.8Ω coil) and the results were baffling. Every hit at 4.2v on ProVari, Zmax and MVP were exactly the same every single time, they were not the same on the Stick; the Stick's hits seem to vary at 3v--some are hotter, some are cooler, I even got a few hot juice squirts. The difference between those hits is not big, but it is noticeable. Again, I only tested it at 3v--it's quite possible that since the regulation does not occur at all at lower voltages, the battery does pretty much what it wants to do there. Pure speculation on my part. I haven't tested higher ranges because I don't own any toppers that can take a lot of wattage.

Oh, thank you all for pointing out the dead (phantom) button hits. Happened to me too, and, of course, my first instinct was to tighten the topper to make a connection.

Nice to see this I thought I was out to lunch for awhile, everyone rockin the stick and mine just an evil ...... I rarely got two hits the same, the difference is mine is not a little hotter sometimes it`s off the charts. Example 3 ohm coil at the lowest setting allowed around 4.2 watts as I recall getting hits much hotter then the DNA at 15 watts. Not always it`s random. The DNA is consistent.