Eleaf Istick

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four2109

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Available 11/21/14 (US date format). It looks like it'll be under $10 which is a good price point. I'd still rather have a VT 510 connector :D.

I don't think I would pay anymore than that for it, that's even a little on the high end, since I think it is intended to resolve a defect. Innovative though.
 

Katya

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Thanks Katya. Probably more trouble then it`s worth, lesson learned though! In the foreseeable future it`s genuine Evolv dna boards or I`m not buying.

I'd contact the seller anyway--if only to let them know that there is a problem. If you bought your iStick from a reputable vendor, they should replace it. The vendor sends the defective units back to the manufacturer. That's how the manufacturers learn about problems with their products. The more defective units get sent back to them, the more motivated they become to fix the problem because it hurts their bottom line.

Good luck!
 

Katya

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Available 11/21/14 (US date format). It looks like it'll be under $10 which is a good price point. I'd still rather have a VT 510 connector :D.

I honestly don't know what I want; I may just get that generic AFC. I think 10 bucks is too much for an adapter I don't even like. :facepalm:
 

faile

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Guys, I'm so excited!!! Finally got to order one of these yesterday, and it will be my first box-style battery and my first VW device. :D Has anyone else ordered from Evkoo? How long did it take to get to you? I'm fairly certain they're in China, so I'm expecting a long wait, but... yeah... still SO excited! Hopefully I don't have any more battery failures before it gets here.
 
I was informed by another member that the actual peak value of the PWM square wave is nominally 5.8 volts rather than the 5.5 volts I used in my calculation.

I have had hints that Istick's boost circuit drops the amplitude of the PWM square wave lower after the battery discharges below 2/3 when the Istick sets the voltage below a certain value. If true, that throws off these charts and tables when operating under those conditions.

Here are the updated charts and graphs, All assume a constant PWM square wave constant peak value of 5.8 volts.

The first chart is the interesting one - It shows the actual RMS watts output by the Istick for a given displayed mean voltage and coil resistance. It allows converting the displayed Istick voltage and resistance to the RMS wattage. Again, a Vmax (peak voltage of the PWM square wave) is assumed to always be 5.8 volts.

The second table just matches what the Istick already does for you. The mean watts shown on the second chart should match what is displayed on the Istick.

The last graph shows the difference between the mean watts and the RMS watts for a given displayed voltage and coil resistance.

Eleaf_Istick_Mean_vs_RMS_Power_Chart_1_SMALL.jpg

Eleaf_Istick_Mean_vs_RMS_Power_Chart_2_SMALL.jpg

Eleaf_Istick_Mean_vs_RMS_Power_Graph_SMALL.jpg
 

Kent C

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With a 1.5 ohm coil, if the Istick display reads 6.0 watts (mean), you are actually running about 12 watts RMS, which explains why the Istick appears to run hotter than the display would suggest. That means that a 6 watt displayed setting on an Istick with a 1.5 coil will vape the same as the same coil running 12 watts on a unit calibrated in RMS. Just find the point where the mean line for a certain coil resistance crosses the power line of interest. Draw an imaginary vertical line from that point to find the equivalent wattage for RMS (where the RMS line for the same resistance crosses the imaginary vertical line).

The point of my original post was that there is a simple way to calculate the RMS equivalent settings from the Istick displayed settings.Just enter VW mode and set the power in watts. Then, multiply the voltage displayed on that wattage setting by 5.5 volts and divide by the resistance of the coil. The result will be the (higher) equivalent watts in RMS. The charts above reflect that exact formula. The other post shows how that formula is derived.

Finding the equivalent RMS watts allows you to dial in the correct mean setting on the Istick to match an RMS-based power recommendation from another table or review for a given device.

One thing about the chart...it doesn't reflect the maximum 20 watt limit of the Istick for the 1.0 ohm coil. I showed the higher wattage (above 20 watts) so you can see how the Mean Watts and RMS Watts converge and become equal as the displayed voltage reaches the peak voltage of the Istick (5.5v). For a 1.0 ohm coil, you can't ever get to that equivalent point. You can with higher coil resistances, though.

Best regards,

Don

Ok. That all makes sense :) Thanks Don.
 

Kent C

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i gave that some thought too, kent! i think if the mean shows 5 watts on the istick it would translate to 10 watts with rms which is the measuring system we are used to;)

this chart is supposed to help you figure out the istick settings you need to get the equivalent of your rms settings you are familiar with

Thanks. I got it. Despite the fact that one istick I have has the 'back off a touch on the adapter problem' - the other has no problem, I wish I would have gotten 4 now :) I don't have the problem some have with the mean/RMS - I always tune to flavor regardless of the numbers AND, despite the problems with the adapter, I really like the low profile of it - not adding height. So if they just fix the center post and make it spring loaded, I'd be fine and perhaps just offer that as an accessory ;)
 
I agree...just tune to what you like and forget the RMS stuff. I just find it helpful to understand wheat is going on under the hood when weird things happen.

Plus being an engineer just makes that curiosity worse!

I started out using the Istick with Aspire Ego-style carts with BDC coils. They tasted awful and burnt using the same voltage I used with an Ego battery. I had to set the voltage to the absolute minimum to get rid of the burnt taste. Now I know why.

Since switching to the Nautilus Mini tank with the BVC coils, all issues with taste are resolved. I can run the BVC coils at almost any wattage the Istick will deliver at 1.8 ohms.

Also, the Nautilus Mini has a spring-loaded center pin, which compensates for the lack of one on the Istick.

Curiosity satisfied...back to vaping!

Best,

Don
 
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Cotay

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I agree...just tune to what you like and forget the RMS stuff. I just fine it helpful to understand wheat is going on under the hood when weird things happen.

Plus being an engineer just makes that curiosity worse!

I started out using the Istick with Aspire Ego-style carts with BDC coils. They tasted awful and burnt using the same voltage I used with an Ego battery. I had to set the voltage to the absolute minimum to get rid of the burnt taste. Now I know why.

Since switching to the Nautilus Mini tank with the BVC coils, all issues with taste are resolved. I can run the BVC coils at almost any wattage the Istick will deliver at 1.8 ohms.

Also, the Nautilus Mini has a spring-loaded center pin, which compensates for the lack of one on the Istick.

Curiosity satisfied...back to vaping!

Best,

Don

What setting are you running those BVC coils? I was running them at 8 watts and they were only lasting me a day. I can get a week out of them running on my Vision Spinner II or other ego batteries.
 
I'm also running with the Istick 8 watt setting using the 1.8 ohm BVC coils. The resistance displays 1.9 ohms after a few hits.

The RMS wattage is actually 12 watts with the 1.9 ohms.

I can't comment on the BVC longevity, as I have only had the Nautilus Mini two days. I can crank the wattage way up though without any burning or change in the taste with the menthol blends I use. I bought my wife an identical setup. She prefers setting the wattage to 7.5 (11 watts RMS). She claims she can taste the difference, although I cannot.

With the Nautilus Mini, I can definitely perceive the "rattlesnake" pulsing of the Istick. It doesn't bother me at all, but that 56Hz is definitely perceptible.

Don
 

KTMRider

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I'm wondering if it will be big enough to fit on other mods like a 4nine for example, for pocketing?

I don't think this adapter will work with anything bigger than a 19mm atomizer if you plan on folding it down. I don't have any problems carrying it as is. I just want better threading and center pin.


Well, they'll never admit it. :D But I have a feeling that they know by now that there is a problem. And I'm pretty sure they will fix it in V2.

I would hope they'd fix it but you never know. Adding a spring loaded center pin would add costs to the manufacturing process, not just parts. I'm very interested in what they do with v2 though.


Guys, I'm so excited!!! Finally got to order one of these yesterday, and it will be my first box-style battery and my first VW device. :D Has anyone else ordered from Evkoo? How long did it take to get to you? I'm fairly certain they're in China, so I'm expecting a long wait, but... yeah... still SO excited! Hopefully I don't have any more battery failures before it gets here.

Looks like they had a delay so I would think about 3-4 weeks shipping time. It'll be worth the wait, these are great little devices.
 

SS stingray

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Hi All,
Still having problems with both of my black Isticks. The center pin is so touchy. Can anybody tell me where to buy a spring loaded 510 like the VT 510 ? I use PT 2's and now have to leave the bottom attached to fill tank when I fill juice. It seem for every hit I have to look at screen to see what Ohm reading is. Very disappointing !!! Also need to know what tool removes the screws on bottom and top. Thanks
 
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