Eleaf Istick

[love coffee]

To the best of my knowledge (which is limited, I gladly admit):

Single coils (like your T3) are more vulnerable because the entire wattage generated by the iStick gets thrown at one coil--not two. Kanger coils are not designed to handle more 8-9 watts--they can't wick fast enough to keep the coil cool. Some people are able to use higher-ohm single coils on their iSticks, others get dry hits. Don't ask me why.

Aspire BVC (bottom vertical coil) atties are different both in design (single vertical coil) and materials used (fiberglass filler/wick). The combination of those two factors creates an atty that apparently wicks better (faster) and can withstand higher temperatures.

Most dual-coil atties do well on the iStick because the wattage is always split between two coils so they don't get as hot as singles. A 1.5Ω DC is really two 3Ω coils, perfectly safe resistance for iStick on its lowest setting--whatever that may be. I run all my dual coils (on other, correctly calibrated mods) at 4 volts minimum. So you're good there.

Makes perfect sense now. Thanks, Kat!

 

[love coffee]

I really like my dual coil Kanger tanks--Aerotank and Emow mega--1.8Ω. They come with airflow control valves (which makes all the difference in the world as far as vape quality) and they mount flush on the Stick.

Thanks for this info too, Kat! I will def check those out as well. But, I'm digging this Nauti-Mini so much, I might get another of those, along with one of the Kangers you mentioned.

So far, this "inexpensive" istick has cost me a fortune! 2 isticks (blue & pink), nauti mini, and now need/want another tank and will probably buy two.

 

[KTMRider]

It begins...

 

[KTMRider]

Before I begin, I want to thank LadyPharaoh for donating her Istick for the cause. It came quickly and well packaged. The threads were toast. I managed to get one of my Kayfuns to lock in but barely holding onto the threads. Otherwise, it was fully functional.

I started the disassembly as shown in the teaser. I didn't take a lot of pics because it didn't really come out as well as I thought it would.

I drilled out the 510 with a 25/64" bit and the hole was exactly the size of the VT 510 connector mounting threads. I ground down the sleeve so I had room for the nut but turns out there isn't enough space for the nut. In hind sight, I should've drilled with a 3/8" and tapped but my m10 x .5 tap hasn't arrived and I didn't know the nut wouldn't fit.

Test fitting the whole top cap assembly. It fits but the round brass nut that holds the spring and pin is about 1mm too low and interferes with the fire button. I ended up using a crush washer from my motorcycle parts bin to get the bit of space I needed.

I also had to dremel the inside front wall so the threads of the 510 would fit. It's sandwiched between that front part of the case and the chip board.

I decided to use JB Weld to hold the 510 in place. Not ideal but it should hold.

Here you can see the crush washer. The ID was 11mm so I moved it back from the fire button so it wouldn't overhang.

Here's FrankenIstick with a KFL+ v2

The Istick reads 0.15Ω high. I think it would've been more accurate if I tapped the hole and screwed on the 510 connector. I tried soldering the negative wire to the threads of the 510 but it wouldn't tin with a new 40w soldering iron (grrrrr) so I soldered it back to the original place on the cap. I didn't really test it because the JB Weld isn't fully cured yet.

So replacing the 510 can be done but not gracefully .

 

[Katdarling]

And Phil.

But who cares????

Oh man, I love the Philmitri!

We all love Phil. And John is brilliant. We're just having a little fun here, my friend Kat-darling and yours truly. Never mind us.

Never will. That's a promise.

sorry, kat! but the dna30 has the same footprint as the 40



so what else is new?

Hi tibs.... I'm not about this device, yet.... I don't even know what it's called!

And perhaps to help ya out, scaredmice, "Wary huge wapor" (or as JohnDoses calls it, "ripper") is "Very huge vapor". Not quite sure I WANNA be a very huge vaper.

PWM is step down, it's what Provari uses for step down, it's what Vamo uses for step down....

If I build a 1.6Ω single coil on a simple IGO-W and put it on my mech mod with a fresh battery, it's 11 watts (4.2 volts), pure DC voltage, low voltage drop, a laboratory standard 11 watts.

And it vapes differently from my iStick at 11 watts, I know that going in....

It vapes differently from my MVP-2 at 11 watts, PWM filtered to a flat DC voltage
It vapes differently from my VTR at 11 watts PWM
It vapes differently from my Spire at 11 watts in RMS mode
It vapes differently from my Spire at 11 watts in AVG mode
It vapes differently from my VV Gripper at 4.2 volts (it's only VV)
It vapes differently from my semi mech mods, as there's additional voltage drop.

And none of them vape the same as any of the others in direct comparisons at the same settings with the same topper. Switch to different toppers and some dual coil toppers and the differences are even bigger. And as the battery charge drops different mods do better or worse in keeping the same vape level.

So, Stosh.... what does all this mean in simplistic terms? Vape by taste still applicable? I've just NEVER been one for numbers. I don't get them, and they certainly don't get me.

Wire gauge on those Kanger heads are 32/33 or higher. They heat up really fast. I was running a 1.5 ohm/33 gauge coil that was burning my juice and switched to a 1.5 ohm/28 gauge coil. That solved the problem (still ran a little hotter than on my MVP -but OK nontheless)

spdy, you caused me to think of something in regards to many having burning issues with Kanger coils and the posed question of why people are NOT having these issues with the Aspire coils (thank you KatYA for your take on it). What gauge ARE the Aspire coils in contrast to these 32/33 gauge Kanger heads? Could that be the difference? I'm not convinced it's all about PG/VG ratios. But I'm certainly open to learning more.

So I just ordered red istick for the wife and I'm a little worried because she is rough on her equipment. She killed a vamo by screwing down the tank with gorilla like force so many times that it killed the 510 connection. The she killed a cana mod by first breaking the USB charging port then (even though I told her not touch the battery, let me do it) fried it by installing the battery backwards. Now I bought her an istick as it was only $30 and has some good reviews besides the noted issues. My question is to protect the 510 connection should I keep the ego adapter on at all times? Will that even help to protect the 510 connector? FYI she uses a nautilus mini normally at 13 watts so it sounds like the istick should be good for her.

Uh huh!

 

[Katya]

Nice work, KTM! I sure hope Eleaf/iSmoka engineers are monitoring this thread.

And hello Kat, darling.

 

[LadyPharaoh]

Before I begin, I want to thank LadyPharaoh for donating her Istick for the cause. It came quickly and well packaged. The threads were toast. I managed to get one of my Kayfuns to lock in but barely holding onto the threads. Otherwise, it was fully functional.

I started the disassembly as shown in the teaser. I didn't take a lot of pics because it didn't really come out as well as I thought it would.

I drilled out the 510 with a 25/64" bit and the hole was exactly the size of the VT 510 connector mounting threads. I ground down the sleeve so I had room for the nut but turns out there isn't enough space for the nut. In hind sight, I should've drilled with a 3/8" and tapped but my m10 x .5 tap hasn't arrived and I didn't know the nut wouldn't fit.

Awesome job!

 

[four2109]

Gotta love JB Weld, or plumber's putty. None of us would be here without it.

 

[Iowa Gal]

Thanks for this info too, Kat! I will def check those out as well. But, I'm digging this Nauti-Mini so much, I might get another of those, along with one of the Kangers you mentioned.

So far, this "inexpensive" istick has cost me a fortune! 2 isticks (blue & pink), nauti mini, and now need/want another tank and will probably buy two.

I really enjoy the Nautilus Mini, Kanger Aerotank and Delta 19 on my Istick. They are all wonderful vapes.... What I like most about the Kanger Aerotank is the easy rebuild of the coils...for cost savings. I will continue to run all three...but if budget is tight the Aero Tank will see more Istick time

 

[KTMRider]

Nice work, KTM! I sure hope Eleaf/iSmoka engineers are monitoring this thread.

If they shaved off a fin on the heatsink and dropped the fire button 1-2mm, they could add a spring loaded 510 and keep the same deck. I was surprised how bad the threads were. They weren't stripped but just worn to the point that it could barely hold an atomizer. I tried a few tanks and the KFL was the only one that would hold on and just barely.

I thought about grinding down the edges on the round brass nut that holds the spring and pin for clearance but I didn't know if it would work so I didn't bother.

Overall, it does look a bit goofy and the KF doesn't sit perfectly perpendicular but it's not as bad in real life. I'm being really gentle with it since the JB Weld isn't fully cured. I'm not sure if I'm going to try to fix the high ohm reading yet.

I don't think I could've done this w/o a drill press. Power tools rock

 

[burnie71]

Now for replacing battery

 

[KTMRider]

Now for replacing battery

I didn't bother but it looks like it's a Lipo and not a 18650 as previously thought. I didn't unwrap it but it's a few mm's shorter than my shortest 18650 (LG HE2). I'm sure it would fit but I didn't want to waste a battery on this. Yet.

 

[emmsma]

Well done, KTMRider. I'm sure you - and everyone following - have learned lots from your endeavors. The next iStick retrofits will go better thanks to you.

 

[Katdarling]

Wonderful work, K'Rider, and so sorry for stepping on your 510 toes (posting at the same time as you).

 

[MasterofNone]

 

[zea mays]

Just ordered the bending adapter from sweet vapes. Hoping that will protect my threads.

 

[Woofer]

... I bet that new product has to be a fierce competitor of the iStick,.

I think a hot rock is a fierce competitor to my iStick.
I am looking forward to the Evolv DNa 25!

I think I need to retract my statement that it is not wrong. It is...

A new issue came to light. The Istick reduces the voltage from the boost circuit by 1 volt from 5.8 to 4.8 at about where the battery shows 2/3 of a charge if a voltage setting of less than or equal to 4.8 volts is selected, apparently as a battery saving measure. The Istick gives no indication that this has happened, since it compensates to maintain a constant voltage to the coil by adjusting to a higher PWM duty cycle to maintain the same mean power to the coil.

However, the user will perceive this as a sudden drop in power when the voltage is reduced. In my case, the drop is about 2.5 watts RMS.

I`ve noticed and mentioned that my stick dropped of at about two thirds. Thought it was an isolated bug not a feature.
Thanks for this donf99!

 

[ScandaLeX]

There was a review posted today for the eLeaf iStick bending adapter. I looked and didn't find it posted here yet. It appears the folding adapter is spring loaded.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ebZVFY4Q7q0

Sorry if this has already been posted and I missed it.

iStick Bending Adapter now in-stock at Sweet-Vapes.

 

[LadyPharaoh]

If they shaved off a fin on the heatsink and dropped the fire button 1-2mm, they could add a spring loaded 510 and keep the same deck. I was surprised how bad the threads were. They weren't stripped but just worn to the point that it could barely hold an atomizer. I tried a few tanks and the KFL was the only one that would hold on and just barely.

I was too. The issue with the threads on that 'Stick started the first week I had it. No matter how careful I was I couldn't get any atomizer or RDA on it after 2 weeks. I have two others and although the threading is obviously made of the same material, no issues so far. :::fingers crossed:::

 

[four2109]

If they shaved off a fin on the heatsink and dropped the fire button 1-2mm, they could add a spring loaded 510 and keep the same deck. I was surprised how bad the threads were. They weren't stripped but just worn to the point that it could barely hold an atomizer. I tried a few tanks and the KFL was the only one that would hold on and just barely.

I thought about grinding down the edges on the round brass nut that holds the spring and pin for clearance but I didn't know if it would work so I didn't bother.

Overall, it does look a bit goofy and the KF doesn't sit perfectly perpendicular but it's not as bad in real life. I'm being really gentle with it since the JB Weld isn't fully cured. I'm not sure if I'm going to try to fix the high ohm reading yet.

I don't think I could've done this w/o a drill press. Power tools rock

So, is the thread material soft? or is it a bad cut that some are forcing through? or is a difference in threads from a variety of connectors?
I haven't had a problem. But I have always thought 510s weren't cut deep enough. They were always iffy. Not like the old 801 & 901s, that had real threads.