http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...able-voltage-mods-pulse-width-modulation.html
Deja vu (as posted earlier in this thread).

Deja vu (as posted earlier in this thread).
But there are people her claiming it does....
????
Last night was the last straw for me. Battery indicated < 1/3 charge left, and my coumarin pipe liquid was tasting burnt. Put it on my MVP @ 3.7 volts, and wonderful, smooth vape was had by me.
Personally, I would like to know, once and for all if it bucks or not. Then, if it doesn't, we can wonder how people were getting low intensity vapes on a fresh battery at a setting of 3 volts. If it does, then mine were defective.
vape on ECFers.
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If you feel the units are defective, try opening a claim through eBay's money back guarantee. It's a process through the resolution center, but if ebay decides the units appear defective, they will require the seller to either refund you or replace the units at no charge. Better than taking a loss or passing on potentially defective units to someone else. Even though sellers may not offer returns or try and discourage them by large restocking fees, eBay buyer protection subverts that process. It only takes a few days for resolution.
I purchased mine from the vapenw eBay site not their website. I did notice they have a 14 day return policy on the website. I hope mine works ok, I vape my Hana clone around 13+ watts.
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Thanks for that link dude.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...able-voltage-mods-pulse-width-modulation.html
Deja vu (as posted earlier in this thread).
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Thanks for that link dude.
Read a few articles that attempted to 'splain PWM, having read this one I think I'm almost there. Mebbe sorta kinda, but closer!
Nope. If you got it from the Eleafus site I'd contact them and let them know about it. Maybe you can send it back under warrantyI swapped mine over to volts and at 3v it's a pretty anemic vape. Yours may have a malfunction.
I think if more people would run the istick in Wattage mode,they would be a lot happier with it!I can't understand why anyone would want to use variable voltage as their main setting,on this small mod?
If it only had variable voltage,it wouldn't be as popular as it is. In fact it would be a Ego Winder,only shorter and square.
My friend is not able to get her KFL minis to fire I'm having no issues....we will be together for the weekend in 8 days...he's I'm counting then we will test them out together switching attys etc.
I should clarify she loves the mod and is vaping away with her KFLs and other attys
I just upped a regulated mod to 4 volts and have been vaping a Nautilus Mini with 1.8ohm coil. It's way too hot for me. I normally vape this setup at 3.5 volts, tops. I don't know how you high wattage people do this without starting your nose hairs on fire. I scream like a little girl at 12 watts.
Found more:
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...on-reviewers-pulse-width-modulation-mods.html
Phil discusses:
Taste Your Juice | THE VAPEBRAIN ECD METER
Basically, this problem has reared it's head before, and the istick is doing what it was designed to do. It just isn't accurate in what it is calling voltage (as it relates to LOW WATTAGE vaping).
So, a measured voltage using anything but a meter capable of measuring PWM correctly, will read lower than the "true" voltage as it relates to the amount of heat generated AT THE COIL. Max voltage vs Average voltage. You see, the coil simply doesn't cool off enough between high voltage pulses to make the effective voltage less than the max applied voltage in terms of the amount of HEAT generated.
Of course, I can't confirm this, but apparently it is measurable.
The ECF threads I linked to describe exactly what happened to me with the istick.
Vave vs. Vmax and which is reported on the display.
From the thread linked in this post, is an example taken to the extremes for clarity:
quote (post #52):
i will answer the question i asked previously about a 300v battery ..
at 1% duty cycle the Vaverage will be 3v, if you use the average into a 2Ω atty, the power calculation (v^2)/r gives 4.5W
now .. in reality .. you are applying 300v to a 2Ω atty for 1% of the time.
when it is on .. the atty power is 45000W .. 1% of that is 450W.
so you can see an error of 10000% has crept in from using Vavg.
rms for a pulsed waveform is calculated by Vrms = Vpeak * √duty
so for the example
=300 * √0.01
= 300 * 0.1
= 30Vrms
using that in the power calculation means you get 450W for the calculation.
using rms becomes more important as the battery voltage rises.
it was never a problem with an ego but it is important to get right with dual batterys.
You can derive the error from ..
Vave = Vpeak * duty
Vrms = Vpeak * √duty
Solve for duty in both equations
duty = Vave / Vpeak
duty = (Vrms / Vpeak)²
so Vrms = Vpeak * √(Vave / Vpeak)
as Vpeak increases, Vrms increases further and further from Vavg.
......
Apparently, Vrms is what the istick should display, but it is displaying Vave (IMHO).
Therefore 3v indicated is higher than 3 V DC equivalent.
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As long as your Build is at or above 1.35 Ohms, you Shouldn't have any problems hitting at 13 Watts even if the Voltage Output can't go below 4.2 Volts on a Freshly Charged Battery.
4.2v = (13w x Ohms)^1/2 => Ohms = 1.35
Well I'll be using 1.8 ohm BVC coils in my arsenal of nauty minis so we shall see.