Eleaf Istick

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pcrdude

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does not buck sry it just dont

But there are people her claiming it does....

????

Last night was the last straw for me. Battery indicated < 1/3 charge left, and my coumarin pipe liquid was tasting burnt. Put it on my MVP @ 3.7 volts, and wonderful, smooth vape was had by me.

Personally, I would like to know, once and for all if it bucks or not. Then, if it doesn't, we can wonder how people were getting low intensity vapes on a fresh battery at a setting of 3 volts. If it does, then mine were defective.

vape on ECFers.

:)
 

OldtimeRocker

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If this was me out would go back to the manufacture with an e-mail explaining your vaping stye and why you need 3V and that there advertizing is misleading at best. Seeing as the cutoff point is 3.2V and they state it goes from 3V-5.5V with no step-down. May be hard to get money back but they make other items if they wont do a cash back maybe an item trade. Just a though good luck i hate fault advertizing myself. Wish we(USA) did something about that too but i wont hold my breath.

I wish it would step down as well but wishing don't make it so :)


I just contacted vapenw requesting a return for refund. They have a 10% restocking fee, and shipping was $11, so I'm going to be at a pretty big loss after paying to ship them back.

I have a silver one, and a blue one.

Maybe I need to just find someone local to sell them too (some high wattage vaper)....

I really like these little isticks, but they just won't work for me.

My total cost for both isticks (delivered) was $76.00.

BTW, regardless of what others have written here, MY isticks are producing too much energy based on comaprisons to my other mods, and the energy cannot be reduced to an appropriate level with the controls. I just don't know if they are working as designed, or are defective. Others here are having the same problem I am.......
 

DancingHeretik

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Right and anyone that is not comfortable there should probably look for a fixed 3.7V device. Why even have VV/VW if you truly like to vape that low. This is all JMO We all have one.

I was looking around on the site that I bought my first Riva kit from last night and saw these. Deal of the Day

Those used to be very popular when they first came out and may interest some folks in this thread for their size. Not to mention that they are only $6
Those are adorable. I paid $20 for one about a year and a half ago. What's funny is that shipping is more than the price.

I just contacted vapenw requesting a return for refund. They have a 10% restocking fee, and shipping was $11, so I'm going to be at a pretty big loss after paying to ship them back.

I have a silver one, and a blue one.

Maybe I need to just find someone local to sell them too (some high wattage vaper)....

I really like these little isticks, but they just won't work for me.

My total cost for both isticks (delivered) was $76.00.

BTW, regardless of what others have written here, MY isticks are producing too much energy based on comaprisons to my other mods, and the energy cannot be reduced to an appropriate level with the controls. I just don't know if they are working as designed, or are defective. Others here are having the same problem I am.......
Did you explain to them that the product is 'defective'/not working as advertised? IOW they owe you a refund, period.

You could always sell them on the classies. They're a hot item and out of stock most places. Sell them fast while they're hard to get elsewhere.
 

graybeard

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But there are people her claiming it does....

????

Last night was the last straw for me. Battery indicated < 1/3 charge left, and my coumarin pipe liquid was tasting burnt. Put it on my MVP @ 3.7 volts, and wonderful, smooth vape was had by me.



Personally, I would like to know, once and for all if it bucks or not. Then, if it doesn't, we can wonder how people were getting low intensity vapes on a fresh battery at a setting of 3 volts. If it does, then mine were defective.

Vape on ECFers.

:)

I admire your patience with this, sir. I am glad you have other devices that make you happy until this all gets sorted out. Meanwhile vape happy!
 

salemgold

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I also wonder can you file a claim with e-bay or PP for "item not as described" ?

What is not as described? That the voltage range starts at 3V??? :confused: It certainly does start at 3V Even if you can not use LR coil to get there, it has 3V capability. Not sure what is hard to understand about that ?
 

OldtimeRocker

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This does make me wonder because with less than 33% of the battery you can get 3.7V easy even with this Mod. Do they both act like this ? I will guess some of it the MVP as well may read 3.7 but i know it off some (they are all off some even a provari) Your dealing with such a low Watts that even 1 watts is a 20% and that a big different. If you ever look at a battery chart you will see what i mean when i say Volt drops very fast too 3.8-3.5 range on an imr battery which is the main power band that vapers use. When you look at this chart notice how fast Volt drop too below 3.8 V and how most of the charge is in the 3.8-3.5 volt range and how fast volts drop below 3.4 volt. That most of your battery power band is in the 3.8-3.5 range. Hope this helps. Your Mod should act just like this if your at under 30% and cant get 3.7 volt your Mod is not working correctly.
Battery test-review 18650 curves low


But there are people her claiming it does....

????

Last night was the last straw for me. Battery indicated < 1/3 charge left, and my coumarin pipe liquid was tasting burnt. Put it on my MVP @ 3.7 volts, and wonderful, smooth vape was had by me.

Personally, I would like to know, once and for all if it bucks or not. Then, if it doesn't, we can wonder how people were getting low intensity vapes on a fresh battery at a setting of 3 volts. If it does, then mine were defective.

Vape on ECFers.

:)
 

salemgold

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From the descriptions posted of measurements with Smok meters and other in-line meters it would appear that the iStick is using PWM. The same PWM that the MVP, Provari, ZMax, and Vamo uses, it's the additional circuitry that makes the difference in the final output to your coil, not PWM or duty cycle (misnamed frequency). (the cheap meters cannot accurately measure these)

PWM outputs a square or sawtooth waveform that then must be smoothed and filtered with capacitors and chokes, same as your computer's power supply takes 120 volts AC 60 htz and provides a flat 5 volts DC to the digital circuitry +-.01 volts and millivolts of ripple. It would seem these APV don't filter perfectly, wouldn't expect them to for the size and price.

That said I've found some tanks and toppers are more sensitive to the ripple in the output of some mods. I have some very old regulated mods that have a very poor smoothing and filtering, they will run some toppers very hot, have to turn them way down. Those same toppers will function normally on my MVP at a higher number, but will vape fine if I adjust to taste, not numbers. I bet if these were labeled Low - Medimum - High, everyone could adjust them to where they vape well.

I still vape a number of my old unregulated mod quite often, with a fresh battery they run hot for the coils I build. I simply pulse the fire button on and off while taking a draw until the 4.2 volt surface charge drops to the 3.9 volt range.

I plan on picking up one or two of these puppies once they are widely available, I have enough to hold me a few years, so no rush. It would appear these should run what used to be considered standard ohms, (2.5-3.0Ω) very well. Maybe break out some of my old 801 atomizers, although they ran 3.2Ω standard, but may still fire hot enough for me.

Bringing this forward just because it is such good info :D
 
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salemgold

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it does not buck and the cut off point is 3.2 V so it does not go to 3V and really it does not go below 3.4 for any thing you can call vape time. The best battery on this chart goes all of 200 ohm pass 3.4V

If you are seeking that kind of accuracy and the .2 and .4 is an issue, you really want to stay with the higher end devices. Not even sure that they would be as accurate as what you are looking for. Just saying.

A $30 device is just not going to have the perfection that some in this thread are looking for. These are in high demand and I know they could be sold in classifieds to others.
 

Wow1420

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But there are people her claiming it does....

????

Last night was the last straw for me. Battery indicated < 1/3 charge left, and my coumarin pipe liquid was tasting burnt. Put it on my MVP @ 3.7 volts, and wonderful, smooth vape was had by me.

Personally, I would like to know, once and for all if it bucks or not. Then, if it doesn't, we can wonder how people were getting low intensity vapes on a fresh battery at a setting of 3 volts. If it does, then mine were defective.

Vape on ECFers.

:)

I don't think it is bucking voltage (using some type of regulator chip to produce a lower DC output voltage). I think it is using PWM to rapidly switch the native battery voltage on and off to produce a lower average voltage.

Very subjectively, 3.0V on the istick feels less intense than 3.3V does, but both feel warmer than the comparable settings on an itaste VV (for example).
 

pcrdude

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When I use my Protank (original) with a 2.5 ohm coil at 3.7 volts on any of the devices listed below, they all vape the same:

Innokin MVP
Innokin VTR
Evod 3.7 v regulated eGo
eVic version 1

Not so on MY istick. I am not the only one noticing this issue. I look forward to seeing the results of scientifically accurate testing to confirm if the output is as decribed.

That is why we are discussing this here.
 

Stosh

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I don't think it is bucking voltage (using some type of regulator chip to produce a lower DC output voltage). I think it is using PWM to rapidly switch the native battery voltage on and off to produce a lower average voltage.

Very subjectively, 3.0V on the istick feels less intense than 3.3V does, but both feel warmer than the comparable settings on an itaste VV (for example).

I don't believe any mods are using an analog buck circuit to lower the voltage. This was the method used in early APV and were found to be very inefficient, and also had problems with overheating. The extra voltage that was 'bucked' would be thrown off as heat by the regulator chip, not good in a small enclosure like a mod.

The PWM duty cycle will determine the output voltage in a digital regulator chip. Once the average voltage is produced it is smoothed and filtered to approximate a DC voltage. None are perfect DC as would be produced by a straight battery voltage, they are more judged on how much ripple is left after filtering. Shop a laboratory grade DC adjustable power supply that will cost a couple grand, and one of the specifications is DC ripple, less costs more.

The iStick after use for a short time will have a battery voltage in the 3.7 - 3.8 volt range, about the same as the battery level of an unregulated mod after it's used for a short time. The iStick set for 3.7 volts would not need to buck or boost the voltage at all, simply pass it through. If the internal battery has dropped to 3.5 volts, with a 3 ohm coil you will get 4 watts, with no buck or boost needed. "Feels different than brand X" at 3.5 volts and 3 ohms is human bias not voltage related.
 

Wow1420

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I'm a techy at heart, always have been, so I'm very interested in the technical side of this discussion.

I'm not complaining, because for my use, the istick works well, I've found it to work well with 2.0 ohm dual coil Kanger tanks and very nicely with Kayfuns and RDAs. I mostly use the Kayfuns these days, so I expect this to be a great out and about device for me.

I've also tried it with various single coil clearos (around 2.2 ohms) and gotten mixed results. I can see why people who primarily use this type of clearo wouldn't be so happy with the device.

The istick is in short supply and high demand right now, I would expect that anyone unhappy with the device could put them up for sale in the classified section right now and recoup most of their money. Me, I'm looking forward to arrival of the two additional units that I've got coming in a few weeks.
 

rks1949

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I think if more people would run the istick in Wattage mode,they would be a lot happier with it!:vapor: I can't understand why anyone would want to use variable voltage as their main setting,on this small mod?:blink: If it only had variable voltage,it wouldn't be as popular as it is. In fact it would be a Ego Winder,only shorter and square.
 

gerrymi

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zoiDman

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I'm a techy at heart, always have been, so I'm very interested in the technical side of this discussion.

...

I am Also.

And I like to Deal with Actual Numbers. Not calculated Numbers. Or Opinions of May or May Not be going on.

I'm not saying that some people's iSticks can't go below the Battery Voltage. Maybe they Can't? But I would Rather see someone who can Accurately Test Output Voltage on an iStick report what they Find.
 

pcrdude

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Interesting reading:

Viva Vaping E-zine Article 'Dave - UKV'

Quote:

The VV Gripper and ZMAX take single batteries though as they have a pre-regulator before the PWM circuit so surely this must be better right? Wrong! They have taken a battery voltage, say 4.0 volts, run it through a Boost circuit - the half of the Provari that allows you to increase the voltage above the batteries level - then use PWM to regulate that back down. So instead of the 4.0 volts you see more like 6.4 volts as your VPeak so let’s do those sums again. VRMS = 6.4 x SQRT(37.5%) = 3.9 volts

So, although closer to our selected 3.0 volts we’re still running too high compared to what we’d expect. This is what lead me to do a test to see what, in the real world, happens when the voltages are selected using the different methods by using a coil and temperature sensor and measuring the effect each voltage has on the actual temperature of the coil.
 
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