no sign of wonkyness here
lowest setting - voltage mode
no sign of wonkyness herelowest setting - voltage mode
If those heads are accurately spec'd---which is to say, two 4.0-ohm coils in parallel that result in a 2.0-ohm dual coil---then they should be fine for the iStick. One would think so, at least. The problem I've noted with most of the Kanger-type heads (single-coil EVODs and ProTanks) is that they can't wick fast enough or keep the coul sufficiently wet to handle the iStick's 5.8 volt pulsed voltage.
Single vertical coils tend to be able to handle more heat and watts than equivalent resistance single horizontal coils, since verticals are wrapped in "wick blankets," which provide better liquid saturation to the coil and are thus less likely to burn. So, I ordered some of these to try out:
Vertical Coil Replacement Heads for T3S / MT3 / MT3S / Protank and More (5-Pack) from fasttech
They just came on the market, so no, I haven't used them before. My order from fasttech will probably be delivered after Xmas. I've rebuilt Kanger heads with vertical coils, but in regular EVOD-style heads the short diameter and length of the chamber where the coil sits makes a vertical-coil rebuild more of a hassle. Higher-gauge wire (32ga and up) is necessary to avoid shorting. In addition, getting the smooth, airy draw I like is challenging, since only small coils fit. I'm hoping that these new heads will have a slightly larger chamber.
I don't know. I too hope it's not fiberglass or ceramic. The picture on fasttech showed what looked like a "traditional" wicking material, some kind of batting. I ordered them with the intention of rebuilding the heads with new coils and cotton or rayon wicks.
I'll let you know what I think of them next month.
Have you tried rebuilding dual-coil atties with a single coil? I've seen a tutorial from a guy who rebuilds Kanger BDCs with an oval coil--it's a single coil but it fills the entire empty space in the atty. He uses zipties to wind his coils! Pretty clever.
I found a strap for my istick case. Not a wrist strap but even better for me. I'd post a pic but I'm lazy.
You know those freebie 3x AAA LED flashlights from Harbor Freight? The loop/straps on them are shorter than the istick, but just the right size to loop over your fingers to free up your hand. Perfect for me.

Katya,
Do you know the dimensions of the 20-watt MVP? Apparently only one of three models has been shown so far, and I haven't seen any dimensions listed. The MVP 20 appears to be the same size as the existing MVPs, which would make it a no-go for me---I love the diminutive size of the iStick.
I'm watching the scramble among manufacturers to come up with an iStick killer. So far, nothing has really excited me. I don't care about getting 30 watts or higher; I don't sub-ohm (well, not much---I do sub-ohm RDAs on some of my bottom feeders), and everything in the pipeline I've seen so far is both bigger in size and more expensive than the iStick. Heck, my five iSticks cost me an average of $27 each. That's hard to beat.
eLeaf left themselves vulnerable, though, by using mean vs. rms calibration and having a sub-par 510 connector with its soft threads (shades of VAMOs!). I understand eLeaf's decision to use a non-replaceable battery with usb charging, but an IMR 18650 would be an improvement to my eyes. Surely some company will come up with a serious challenge before too long. Perhaps Innokin will surprise me.
I rebuild my dual-coil Kanger head for my EVOD Glasses with BVCs too. They vape better than the single coil head because the liquid feed seems better.
I've had mine for about 6 weeks--really like it. Some people have had 510 thread issues so you might consider getting the "bendable" adapter as well if you can--it protects the threads and has a spring loaded 510 connection. I just got one of those--didn't have problems-just being pro-active.
Caution advised as far as the Bending Adapter! I have one of the two no longer useable due to how the spring loaded contact prevents the spring loaded locking snap from locking in place while the tank is on or even when the center contact pin is in place! That happened on the one I was carrying around with me. That was only flaw found with those but the one that matters unfortunately.
I routinely rebuild my dual coil heads with a single coil. I use the V1 heads with the silicone caps as they're easy to rebuild. Right now I'm using a 1.3 ohm coil on a PT3 mini at 10w for a pretty decent vape. I think the difference is the wicking. Most everything I've seen and read says to trim the wick even with cup. I trim it slightly longer - maybe 1-2 mm - per one video I saw and that seems to work best for me. I wet the wick well and tuck it into the cup same as you would do with an rba. That little bit of extra wicking seems to help keep the juice flowing but without flooding. I can take it to 20w with this coil with no harshness or dry hits, though I do prefer a lower setting. The stock coils can't keep up.Have you tried rebuilding dual-coil atties with a single coil? I've seen a tutorial from a guy who rebuilds Kanger BDCs with an oval coil--it's a single coil but it fills the entire empty space in the atty. He uses zipties to wind his coils! Pretty clever.
I routinely rebuild my dual coil heads with a single coil. I use the V1 heads with the silicone caps as they're easy to rebuild. Right now I'm using a 1.3 ohm coil on a PT3 mini at 10w for a pretty decent vape. I think the difference is the wicking. Most everything I've seen and read says to trim the wick even with cup. I trim it slightly longer - maybe 1-2 mm - per one video I saw and that seems to work best for me. I wet the wick well and tuck it into the cup same as you would do with an rba. That little bit of extra wicking seems to help keep the juice flowing but without flooding. I can take it to 20w with this coil with no harshness or dry hits, though I do prefer a lower setting. The stock coils can't keep up.
Hey underwhelmd--I'm in NS also. Did you get the bending adapters and your iSticks at a local vape shop? If so which one and how much for them ?I picked up a couple of the bending adapters locally today, one for each of our isticks. These are nice: spring loaded pin and less wear on the istick removing the tank. I have no use for the bending at all though. lol. Worth it? yes.
Pictured with an aerotank v2 installed.
View attachment 396920
This is the closest thing I've seen to show up to replace the iStick. Adjustable 510; replaceable 18650 and 30w. Size is on par with the iStick, if a hair bigger. Price will be the determining factor...
Cloupor Mini 30W VV/VW Mode Box Mod for Sale