Eleaf Istick

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msmith4512

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I have three istick and one has the same issue as your red one. Mine stopped working with my Erlkonigin clone. I fixed it by raising the 510 pin with tiny flat head screwdriver. Didn't do any damage but I've had to repeat the process every now and then when changing rda/RBAs. I've also found that atties with longer connections have been compressing the center pin down into the insulator slightly causing a short error or a very least a non-firing situation, so I continue to tease the pin up with the screwdriver and try to use atties with shorter connectors
 

Sue1971

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Thanks for the info guys/gals. So I bit the bullet and made my purchase of the istick, I really like the size of it vs. the mvp. and the button placement of the button vs the mvp. That was one reason why I gave my mvp to my husband and got the vamo, (dam arthritic fingers) I will get the flip connector to help save the threads. As far as a high wattage devise I don't need it. I don't normally go over 8watts now with the vamo and nor did I with the mvp. Sub ohm I doubt I'll ever venture into. I get plenty of "clouds" that satisfy me enough to keep me off those stinky sticks. :)

Another reason why I wanted something like the mvp again was well I find it sometimes a pain to have to keep having extra charged batteries for the vamo. I use a small hand purse not much room in there for extras, (and vamo is just too large to fit in there too..lol) and not being able to just plug into the car charger if needed.

Again thanks all :)
 

aldenf

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If those heads are accurately spec'd---which is to say, two 4.0-ohm coils in parallel that result in a 2.0-ohm dual coil---then they should be fine for the iStick. One would think so, at least. The problem I've noted with most of the Kanger-type heads (single-coil EVODs and ProTanks) is that they can't wick fast enough or keep the coul sufficiently wet to handle the iStick's 5.8 volt pulsed voltage.

Single vertical coils tend to be able to handle more heat and watts than equivalent resistance single horizontal coils, since verticals are wrapped in "wick blankets," which provide better liquid saturation to the coil and are thus less likely to burn. So, I ordered some of these to try out:

Vertical Coil Replacement Heads for T3S / MT3 / MT3S / Protank and More (5-Pack) from fasttech

Good find, Bill! That will immensely help those with single coil Kanger devices get the most out of their vape.
 

aldenf

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They just came on the market, so no, I haven't used them before. My order from fasttech will probably be delivered after Xmas. I've rebuilt Kanger heads with vertical coils, but in regular EVOD-style heads the short diameter and length of the chamber where the coil sits makes a vertical-coil rebuild more of a hassle. Higher-gauge wire (32ga and up) is necessary to avoid shorting. In addition, getting the smooth, airy draw I like is challenging, since only small coils fit. I'm hoping that these new heads will have a slightly larger chamber.



I don't know. I too hope it's not fiberglass or ceramic. The picture on fasttech showed what looked like a "traditional" wicking material, some kind of batting. I ordered them with the intention of rebuilding the heads with new coils and cotton or rayon wicks.

I'll let you know what I think of them next month.

I've had no problems rebuilding my Kanger heads with verticals, Bill. 28g; 8-9 wraps around a #4 machine screw. Yields 1.6-1.8Ω coils. Center them in the head base and stuff around with rayon. I have found that liquid feeds better when I flip the silicone top sleeve. Plenty of airflow with the approximately 2.4mm coil. Vapes brilliantly in EVODS & PT2s. Having pre-made coils available for those who don't rebuild is a nice option!
 

aldenf

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Have you tried rebuilding dual-coil atties with a single coil? I've seen a tutorial from a guy who rebuilds Kanger BDCs with an oval coil--it's a single coil but it fills the entire empty space in the atty. He uses zipties to wind his coils! Pretty clever.

I rebuild my dual-coil Kanger head for my EVOD Glasses with BVCs too. They vape better than the single coil head because the liquid feed seems better.
 

ScandaLeX

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I found a strap for my istick case. Not a wrist strap but even better for me. I'd post a pic but I'm lazy.
You know those freebie 3x AAA LED flashlights from Harbor Freight? The loop/straps on them are shorter than the istick, but just the right size to loop over your fingers to free up your hand. Perfect for me.

Oh hell no! You're not getting off that easy buddy!!!! PICS!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :lol:
 

aldenf

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Katya,

Do you know the dimensions of the 20-watt MVP? Apparently only one of three models has been shown so far, and I haven't seen any dimensions listed. The MVP 20 appears to be the same size as the existing MVPs, which would make it a no-go for me---I love the diminutive size of the iStick.

I'm watching the scramble among manufacturers to come up with an iStick killer. So far, nothing has really excited me. I don't care about getting 30 watts or higher; I don't sub-ohm (well, not much---I do sub-ohm RDAs on some of my bottom feeders), and everything in the pipeline I've seen so far is both bigger in size and more expensive than the iStick. Heck, my five iSticks cost me an average of $27 each. That's hard to beat.

eLeaf left themselves vulnerable, though, by using mean vs. rms calibration and having a sub-par 510 connector with its soft threads (shades of VAMOs!). I understand eLeaf's decision to use a non-replaceable battery with usb charging, but an IMR 18650 would be an improvement to my eyes. Surely some company will come up with a serious challenge before too long. Perhaps Innokin will surprise me.

This is the closest thing I've seen to show up to replace the iStick. Adjustable 510; replaceable 18650 and 30w. Size is on par with the iStick, if a hair bigger. Price will be the determining factor...

Cloupor Mini 30W VV/VW Mode Box Mod for Sale
 

Katya

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I rebuild my dual-coil Kanger head for my EVOD Glasses with BVCs too. They vape better than the single coil head because the liquid feed seems better.

The build I'm referring to in my post is a single oval horizontal coil--very interesting. Just like a regular single coil (with wick going through the coil, not wrapped around the coil on the outside) but twice as tall to fill the extra space in the BDC atomizer.
 
I've had mine for about 6 weeks--really like it. Some people have had 510 thread issues so you might consider getting the "bendable" adapter as well if you can--it protects the threads and has a spring loaded 510 connection. I just got one of those--didn't have problems-just being pro-active.

Caution advised as far as the Bending Adapter! I have one of the two no longer useable due to how the spring loaded contact prevents the spring loaded locking snap from locking in place while the tank is on or even when the center contact pin is in place! That happened on the one I was carrying around with me. That was only flaw found with those but the one that matters unfortunately.

I've been running with two tanks first giving it a try with the Smok Tumblers which will work upto about 10w and then got in the Nautilus mini tanks for the pair of them here which have been working out. The Eleaf tank might a consideration as well as a few others with either BDC or BVC coils.

As far as the Cloupor Mini 30w mod that's still seen at a US vendor according to Vaping Deals and Discounts information. http://vapingdealsndiscounts.com/vaping-deals/introducing-the-cloupor-mini-30w-vvvw-mode-box-mod/

One place has that one priced at $38.99 for the 2-3week wait seen at http://www.evkoo.com/cloupor-mini-30w-vv-vw-mode-box-mod.html

Even the iStick Mini is still on pre-order at this time however for $22.99 there while another site was a bit less. http://www.evkoo.com/eleaf-istick-mini-10w-1050mah-mod.html
 
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ScandaLeX

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Caution advised as far as the Bending Adapter! I have one of the two no longer useable due to how the spring loaded contact prevents the spring loaded locking snap from locking in place while the tank is on or even when the center contact pin is in place! That happened on the one I was carrying around with me. That was only flaw found with those but the one that matters unfortunately.

Did you call to get a replacement from where you bought your adapter from?
 

four2109

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oh hell no! You're not getting off that easy buddy!!!! Pics!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :lol:

istickstrap.jpg.................................... Ok. :p
 

Txnow333

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Nov 22, 2014
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Have you tried rebuilding dual-coil atties with a single coil? I've seen a tutorial from a guy who rebuilds Kanger BDCs with an oval coil--it's a single coil but it fills the entire empty space in the atty. He uses zipties to wind his coils! Pretty clever.
I routinely rebuild my dual coil heads with a single coil. I use the V1 heads with the silicone caps as they're easy to rebuild. Right now I'm using a 1.3 ohm coil on a PT3 mini at 10w for a pretty decent vape. I think the difference is the wicking. Most everything I've seen and read says to trim the wick even with cup. I trim it slightly longer - maybe 1-2 mm - per one video I saw and that seems to work best for me. I wet the wick well and tuck it into the cup same as you would do with an rba. That little bit of extra wicking seems to help keep the juice flowing but without flooding. I can take it to 20w with this coil with no harshness or dry hits, though I do prefer a lower setting. The stock coils can't keep up.
 

lvm111

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Update on my istick from the really big, cheap, ecig.com sale. Only use it about 5-6 brief times a day for stealth at work. Use other devices (mostly my Provari's) in the car, and at home. Charged it fully upon receiving it. On the last battery bar now. Hasn't run out of battery power yet. Refilled the Naughty mini several times.

Yes, that's right. Have not had to recharge the eleaf istick yet! Crazy!

best regards, larry mac
 
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Katya

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I routinely rebuild my dual coil heads with a single coil. I use the V1 heads with the silicone caps as they're easy to rebuild. Right now I'm using a 1.3 ohm coil on a PT3 mini at 10w for a pretty decent vape. I think the difference is the wicking. Most everything I've seen and read says to trim the wick even with cup. I trim it slightly longer - maybe 1-2 mm - per one video I saw and that seems to work best for me. I wet the wick well and tuck it into the cup same as you would do with an rba. That little bit of extra wicking seems to help keep the juice flowing but without flooding. I can take it to 20w with this coil with no harshness or dry hits, though I do prefer a lower setting. The stock coils can't keep up.

Could you tell me more about your rebuild? Wire gauge, coil I.D., wicking material?

I prefer horizontal (Kayfun-style) builds because they are so easy to rewick and dry-burn. Besides, I dont really want to go back to cartomizers. Been there done that. :D
 

shack22

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I picked up a couple of the bending adapters locally today, one for each of our isticks. These are nice: spring loaded pin and less wear on the istick removing the tank. I have no use for the bending at all though. lol. Worth it? yes.

Pictured with an aerotank v2 installed.
View attachment 396920
Hey underwhelmd--I'm in NS also. Did you get the bending adapters and your iSticks at a local vape shop? If so which one and how much for them ?
 

Katya

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This is the closest thing I've seen to show up to replace the iStick. Adjustable 510; replaceable 18650 and 30w. Size is on par with the iStick, if a hair bigger. Price will be the determining factor...

Cloupor Mini 30W VV/VW Mode Box Mod for Sale

iStick killer? ;)

Nice find. Now if I could only get one of those with Evolv's DNA 40 board. I want that temperature control feature. I think. :)
 
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