Eleaf Istick
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I'm waiting for the $9.95 clones.
Seriously... glad most everyone here likes theirs. Let's hope you all feel the same way in a couple of months. Perhaps we have something here that will be so popular it spurs on more lookalikes. I'd love to see something this tiny exceed 3000mah.
There has been such a tremendous response to the size of these little guys, and the fact that 20W is very appealing to those of us who are ready to abandon 15W tube mods, I will prohesy that mod makers will smell the coffee. We will beat a path to any mod makers who fixes the bugs, builds reliable devices, and most importantly offers the coolest colors for 35$. Heads up INNOKIN.
Go to the forum index here:Variable Voltage APV Discussion
Look for the little paper clip icon on the Istick thread and click it.
All the images on the whole thread will appear in a list. Knock yourself out!
I would like to reiterate that I think the Istick is a wonderful device fro many, many vapers. I BELIEVE that eleaf used the wrong calculation to display applied voltage, especially after reading exactly how reporting average voltage can differ significantly from RMS voltage (which more closely approximates the pure DC value).
Since I vape at 3.7 volts on a 2.5 ohm Kanger single coil, I already know that I get a nasty vape if I use 4 volts or above. I know this from trying it using MVP, VTR, and eVic mods at that setting.
Instead of selling my iSticks (although now would be a good time to do it since I have them and vendors don't)
alternatively, I could change delivery systems.
Maybe a dual coil clearo, with 2.0 ohm coils will work better for me with the (aparently) under-reported voltage setting.
I would also like to reiterate that I am not imagining the apparent over-volt effect. Others here are reporting it, and I'm not trying to pour water on anyone's parade. I simply want certain (low wattage) vapers to know before they buy. I think they have a right to know, and some of the dismissive comments about the problem are not helping inform we low-watt-vaper-people.
All will be made clear when testing is done (which is what I most want to see).
Vape and be happy!
Since I vape at 3.7 volts on a 2.5 ohm Kanger single coil, I already know that I get a nasty vape if I use 4 volts or above. I know this from trying it using MVP, VTR, and eVic mods at that setting.
Instead of selling my iSticks (although now would be a good time to do it since I have them and vendors don't)
alternatively, I could change delivery systems.Maybe a dual coil clearo, with 2.0 ohm coils will work better for me with the (aparently) under-reported voltage setting.
I would also like to reiterate that I am not imagining the apparent over-volt effect. Others here are reporting it, and I'm not trying to pour water on anyone's parade. I simply want certain (low wattage) vapers to know before they buy. I think they have a right to know, and some of the dismissive comments about the problem are not helping inform we low-watt-vaper-people.
All will be made clear when testing is done (which is what I most want to see).
Vape and be happy!
Mine has just arrived in Spain Great Little Device and great Vape !
Here is pic with a Naturevapes Mini on Top and next to the Provari Mini !
Amazed how tiny this is
Great Little Device and great Vape ! Here is pic with a Naturevapes Mini on Top and next to the Provari Mini !
Amazed how tiny this is
Sounded like a great function but I can't get it to work. It showed the stock image, but now it doesn't even load that. Just an About:Blank page. Any ideas?
Yeah, I've been wondering if you still found it too hot in voltage mode. 3 quick clicks on the fire button, wait a sec and the display changes.<snip>
Maybe a dual coil clearo, with 2.0 ohm coils will work better for me with the (aparently) under-reported voltage setting.
I would also like to reiterate that I am not imagining the apparent over-volt effect. Others here are reporting it, and I'm not trying to pour water on anyone's parade. I simply want certain (low wattage) vapers to know before they buy. I think they have a right to know, and some of the dismissive comments about the problem are not helping inform we low-watt-vaper-people.
All will be made clear when testing is done (which is what I most want to see).
Vape and be happy!
Your 3.7v with 2.5ohm calcs to 5.48 watts. I'm typically 3.8 or 3.9v with a 1.8 ohm Aspire BDC on my spinners/Twists which calcs to 8.02 watts. But on my VAMO's and SID I vape at 5 or 6 watts with the same tank (ET-S). With my two iSticks I'm doing 5.0 to 5.5 watts. All of these please me most of the day.
Try volt mode & a higher ohm coil. At the end of the day your tastebuds and the form factor rule, imo. Numbers and tech are interesting, but only as a personal starting point imo.
The highest single coil Kanger resistance available is 2.5 and I'm already there. I believe that the wattage is calulated from the voltage, so I don't think changing modes makes any difference in the vape whatsoever (still not good at 3v indicated on the iStick).
Thanks though.....
What a brilliant little device! The form factor and price are amazing. I will wait to pull the trigger on one (or more!) until I see a review from someone with the technology to measure things accurately.
This does remind me of issues with the VAMO v3-v5. Many people were complaining that they were not regulating voltage well and firing much hotter than the settings might suggest. Then it came to light that the chipset was capable of firing in both VAVG (or mean) & VRMS modes. VAVG output feels substantially hotter than VRMS. Phil Busardo speaks briefly about this in his VAMO v5 review (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FLO3PTUek2o) starting at 16:40. According to Phil, vaping in VAVG (or mean) mode feels "hot, way hot" as compared to VRMS (The technical reasons for this are explained in the previously linked threads/articles). All his charts on the VAMO v5 were measured in RMS mode. After he started doing measurements (in AVG mode), he was "just about ready to blow it in and warn people about it". Does any of this sound familiar?
Of course the iStick has no buck circuitry. Most, if not all, of our popular APVs (VAMO, ZMAX, DNAs, Provaris, etc) have no actual electrical bucking capability. They boost the battery output to a much higher votage and use pulse-width modulation (PWM) to approximate our desired voltage/wattage. Some rectify/filter beautifully and make the output look like smooth, constant DC voltage (Provari, etc). Some don't. It would appear that the iStick is outputting in VAVG mode rather than VRMS. That's too bad. For many vapers (but NOT ALL), this will provide an unpleasant vaping experience. Is there an ability, on the iStick, to switch between AVG (or mean) & RMS output? Has anyone tried pushing and holding buttons, in various combinations, often for a long time, to determine this?
I will wait for a thorough review before making any decisions or recommendations. Except for the iStick's wonderfully small form factor, my VAMO v3 (at $25) and VAMO box mod outperform the iStick in most every way and allow me to vape at 30w.
Just my opinion. I could be wrong.
Hope everybody has a great day!
~Alden
This does remind me of issues with the VAMO v3-v5. Many people were complaining that they were not regulating voltage well and firing much hotter than the settings might suggest. Then it came to light that the chipset was capable of firing in both VAVG (or mean) & VRMS modes. VAVG output feels substantially hotter than VRMS. Phil Busardo speaks briefly about this in his VAMO v5 review (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FLO3PTUek2o) starting at 16:40. According to Phil, vaping in VAVG (or mean) mode feels "hot, way hot" as compared to VRMS (The technical reasons for this are explained in the previously linked threads/articles). All his charts on the VAMO v5 were measured in RMS mode. After he started doing measurements (in AVG mode), he was "just about ready to blow it in and warn people about it". Does any of this sound familiar?
Of course the iStick has no buck circuitry. Most, if not all, of our popular APVs (VAMO, ZMAX, DNAs, Provaris, etc) have no actual electrical bucking capability. They boost the battery output to a much higher votage and use pulse-width modulation (PWM) to approximate our desired voltage/wattage. Some rectify/filter beautifully and make the output look like smooth, constant DC voltage (Provari, etc). Some don't. It would appear that the iStick is outputting in VAVG mode rather than VRMS. That's too bad. For many vapers (but NOT ALL), this will provide an unpleasant vaping experience. Is there an ability, on the iStick, to switch between AVG (or mean) & RMS output? Has anyone tried pushing and holding buttons, in various combinations, often for a long time, to determine this?
I will wait for a thorough review before making any decisions or recommendations. Except for the iStick's wonderfully small form factor, my VAMO v3 (at $25) and VAMO box mod outperform the iStick in most every way and allow me to vape at 30w.
Just my opinion. I could be wrong.
Hope everybody has a great day!
~Alden
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Wattage IS calculated by amps * voltage. Just saying that we still don't have a real clue what the actual output measurements are from a tecchie type, and no way to know exactly how the regulation and output differs (if it does/does not) between watt control mode vs volt control mode. I THINK I notice a difference between 5.0w/3.0v and 3.0v/5.0w but I've been known to think funny before.
If you tried it in voltage mode and it tastes exactly like it does in watt mode, then I missed that. Just trying to help ya get yer vape on.
WOW am loving this small device, almost too small almost lol. Very impressed with the battery life. I vaped over 6ml yesterday on the charge the battery came with. Never did die on me after over a day of vaping i recharged it last night. Still loving this little mod no question about that. Looks from the pictures that a replaceable battery can be Moded into this after the orginal bites the dust. Heck for 30 bucks whats not to like about this Mod!!! For me it fits my needs perfectly. I will be buying more of these for sure. 9/10 nothing is really prefect
Thanks (@JD4x4). I have an iClear 30s at home at 2.0 ohm dual coils. I haven't used it for a while, so I may clean it up, and try it on the iStick. I don't really care for the iClear, but maybe it will work better than the single coil Kangers for the iStick.
Mine came in from Vape NW today! The blue is very pretty. I just received the stick-no ego adapter or charging cable. I have an adapter here somewhere, just not sure where that little bugger went. So far, my Nautilus mini and Aerotank V2 are vaping great on the IStick. My arthritic hands are very happy. This is lighter than an MVP and a Vamo!
It took me less than a minute to scan through this thread and fine a picture next to a Hana Mod. Try it
And while the picture selection method mentioned earlier works perfectly for me, it will only include attached pictures, not embedded pictures.
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I put the stick on the scope. This is what I've found so far:
As a simple test I connected some cheap grabber leads to my 1.8Ω dripper. It's a fairly solid square wave variable pulse width output. I didn't find any variance in voltage of a peak of 5.8v. Some of you know the time needs to be plotted with different settings to understand it. It's an older, simple scope. Maybe I will do that at a later time. The Fluke 77 picked up a voltage that was close enough to what the display was reading.
There is also a short 1v pulse with a long interval while the display is on/not firing. You will notice that the device is constantly checking the atomizer while the display is on. It's a possibility that this is post heating the coil.
I put a dna30 chip on the scope and it's a nice flat line that varies in voltage. No pulsing detected with my equipment. It's the only other chip I have available for comparison.
As a simple test I connected some cheap grabber leads to my 1.8Ω dripper. It's a fairly solid square wave variable pulse width output. I didn't find any variance in voltage of a peak of 5.8v. Some of you know the time needs to be plotted with different settings to understand it. It's an older, simple scope. Maybe I will do that at a later time. The Fluke 77 picked up a voltage that was close enough to what the display was reading.
There is also a short 1v pulse with a long interval while the display is on/not firing. You will notice that the device is constantly checking the atomizer while the display is on. It's a possibility that this is post heating the coil.
I put a dna30 chip on the scope and it's a nice flat line that varies in voltage. No pulsing detected with my equipment. It's the only other chip I have available for comparison.
You guys, can you please tolerate a dumb question from an old lady?
How do I get the mode on the iStick to change from Watts to Volts?
TIA
Pat
How do I get the mode on the iStick to change from Watts to Volts?
TIA
Pat
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