Looks like 5.8V.
The device settings in the picture were 3.6V in VV mode on a 1.8Ω coil.
The scope settings are 2V/Div. and 5mS/Div.
Eleaf Istick
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Looks like 5.8V.
The device settings in the picture were 3.6V in VV mode on a 1.8Ω coil.
The scope settings are 2V/Div. and 5mS/Div.
So, if you can figure the duty cycle, will this work?
duty cycle is D= Ton/(Ton+Toff)
Ton/Toff is the mark to space ratio (MS) which isn't immediately
useful for this kind of calculation. Obviously, it can be greater than
one.
D= MS/(MS+1/MS)
Happily, if you define D correctly, Terry's conclusion is correct.
> RMS = peak*sqrt(D)
Then we will know Vrms at an indicated setting of 3.6.
calculations from http://www.electronics-related.com/...08/rms-approximation-of-square-pwm-signal.php
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So, if you can figure the duty cycle, will this work?
duty cycle is D= Ton/(Ton+Toff)
Ton/Toff is the mark to space ratio (MS) which isn't immediately
useful for this kind of calculation. Obviously, it can be greater than
one.
D= MS/(MS+1/MS)
Happily, if you define D correctly, Terry's conclusion is correct.
> RMS = peak*sqrt(D)
Then we will know Vrms at an indicated setting of 3.6.
calculations from RMS approximation of Square/PWM signal | Sci.Electronics.Design | Electronics-Related.com
My scope doesn't track well making time difficult to measure.
I'm looking at roughly 10mS on/10mS off at 5.8v.
The device is set to 3v.
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Thank you for sharing this point. I do love both my Billet Box and my full-sized ProVari, but I have day(s) at a time where either are simply too much for my hands. The MVP2.0 is perfect except for how hard the fire button is (to me). The VV3.0 are quite nice, but are not long-lasting enough in my daily use (love how they do not roll around). I assume the fire button press is a non-issue for you as well?
Instead of selling my iSticks (although now would be a good time to do it since I have them and vendors don't)
Trying to brainstorm here to help prevent the hassles involved in returning or selling your Istick.
There are a number of "Aspire BVC threads" where posters report that the BVC's need (or are best) (and do NOT burn) at higher Wattage. (eg. Every ClearomizerCartoTank I use I'm quite happy at 6-7.5 Watts. But I run my BVC's at 14-15 Watts for superior [to me] performance.)
So...if you tried a Nautilus (with a 1.8 Ω BVC coil) at 10 Watts (since you're looking for a cooler vape) it would fire at the "No-Step-Down-Needed" point on a freshly charged battery (according to peraspera's chart post #414).
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...sion/601111-eleaf-istick-72.html#post14217741
graybeard, thank you! You just saved me oodles of time as I often like to refer back to thread images.
VAMO box mod?
Got to try out one of these at a local store earlier today, and I must say I was impressed with it. It is VERY small. Smaller then it looks in photos. Very comfortable to use and easy to adjust.
What most impresses me with it is that there isn't a separate adjustment for voltage and wattage. You adjust the voltage, and based on your atomizer resistance, the corresponding wattage is displayed.
I thought it was very cleverly designed in the fact that it limits your range of adjustment based on your atomizer resistance and it's current output limitation. For instance, with a 2.1Ω atomizer attached, output was limited to 14.4 Watts, if I remember correctly. With a different atomizer with a resistance of 1.2Ω, the wattage could be adjusted as high as 19.2 watts. I'm guessing you would need a 1.0Ω to achieve a full 20 watts on the display. I prefer this arrangement GREATLY to how the MVP operates, which for all intents and purposed, lies on this display if it's unable to deliver your setting within it's current limit.
Impressive little device, especially considering it's low entry fee.
What most impresses me with it is that there isn't a separate adjustment for voltage and wattage. You adjust the voltage, and based on your atomizer resistance, the corresponding wattage is displayed.
I thought it was very cleverly designed in the fact that it limits your range of adjustment based on your atomizer resistance and it's current output limitation. For instance, with a 2.1Ω atomizer attached, output was limited to 14.4 Watts, if I remember correctly. With a different atomizer with a resistance of 1.2Ω, the wattage could be adjusted as high as 19.2 watts. I'm guessing you would need a 1.0Ω to achieve a full 20 watts on the display. I prefer this arrangement GREATLY to how the MVP operates, which for all intents and purposed, lies on this display if it's unable to deliver your setting within it's current limit.
Impressive little device, especially considering it's low entry fee.
Ha. The guy at my local B&M just let me use one. (it's the only one he has).
Stuck a Nautilus Mini 1.8ohm topper on it, set for 3.0v and I can tell this thing vapes way too hot for us low-wattage vapers. It's like using an Ego fresh off the charger. I really wish I could get 2.5ohm BVC's because this little thing is kinda cool. For now though, I'll stick with my proven VV3's and MVP.
Stuck a Nautilus Mini 1.8ohm topper on it, set for 3.0v and I can tell this thing vapes way too hot for us low-wattage vapers. It's like using an Ego fresh off the charger. I really wish I could get 2.5ohm BVC's because this little thing is kinda cool. For now though, I'll stick with my proven VV3's and MVP.
Just Curious.
Do you Normally use a 1.8 Ohms "Topper" when you vape at Low Wattage?
It's the highest resistance BVC coils available for my Nautilus Mini. Love to go higher but those coils just don't exist and these things can't be re-wrapped to my knowledge.
I normally wrap to 2.4 (or so) on my kayfun though. I suppose a 2.8-3.0 wrap might choke down the power a bit.
freshly charged ego is too hot? 
goes to show that my vaping style is not what all do, when we have an opinion on a device, its important to remember that we all have our own preferences and likes.
Honestly i was going to make fun of that post until i realized that the way i like my vape isnt the how your like your vape
goes to show that my vaping style is not what all do, when we have an opinion on a device, its important to remember that we all have our own preferences and likes.
Honestly i was going to make fun of that post until i realized that the way i like my vape isnt the how your like your vape
As much as I plan to use mine with a Naughty Mini, I will definitely be putting it to good use with a Karto Tank, too! (I know I know..... I'll go stand alone in the corner now...)
A standard 3.0Ω Boge will suit me and my wattage levels for a substantial part of peraspera's chart. (Thanks for that, btw.)
A standard 3.0Ω Boge will suit me and my wattage levels for a substantial part of peraspera's chart. (Thanks for that, btw.)
They actually aren't that hard to rebuild. There are videos out there for rebuilding the BDCs - follow that for disassembly. I use the Muji Japanese cotton squares for filler, cut to size (same as the ones you pulled out), put them around a coil (I build mine down to 1.3Ω), and then use #400 mesh to wrap the head before placing the sleeve around it. Works better than stock, IMO.
No - the heads are nearly identical. There are videos for the BDCs out there - I haven't seen any for BVCs. But the tear down is the same - as far as getting the head apart.
Edit - with one exception. When you look down the top of the BVC, there is a small screen. Pull that out with tweezers - then complete the tear down.
As much as I plan to use mine with a Naughty Mini, I will definitely be putting it to good use with a Karto Tank, too! (I know I know..... I'll go stand alone in the corner now...)
A standard 3.0Ω Boge will suit me and my wattage levels for a substantial part of peraspera's chart. (Thanks for that, btw.)
ooh, I have not used a carto tank in awhile. I am going to have to try one on this too. No mini anything for me. I am a heavy vaper and constant refilling drives me nuts.
I saw a person post in another thread that some vendors are getting their orders in earlier then expected. I have no clue who those vendors are though.
My friend, you have better eyes than me.
As an aside... like others here I took my Smok Ohm/Volt tester to the B&M. The iStick registered 4 volts under load (when it said 3.0). Every other regulated mod I have registers correctly or pretty close. Sadly, unless Eleaf comes out with a version "2" with a chip modification, it's a deal breaker for yours truly. (I actually used the 2.9v of the Provari Mini the short time I had it - especially after a fresh re-coiling of my kayfun).
I envy you foggers sometimes. Wish I could vape plumes like a lot of you. I just can't.
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