Well the shipping status changed this morning to expected delivery on the 27th. So fingers crossed!
Eleaf Istick
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Well there you go! I just got the tracking update in finally for the E-LVT 2.0 30w mod I had ordered showing thar will be in on friday since no mail on holidays! After a full two weeks since fasttech shipped it out and nothing seen as far as tracking I put in the request again at he PO and suddenly it showed up. That will be the mod in the coat pocket with an Atllantis sitting on top there when out for long stretches while the iSticks will still have their place as well. At least that should make your holiday a little more special hearing the good news tthere! 
I just realized we live in the same town...lol
I am happy, the bending adapter will be here Friday (hopefully) then the istick and then my 5 pack of BVC 1.8 coils on the following wed.
I am happy, the bending adapter will be here Friday (hopefully) then the istick and then my 5 pack of BVC 1.8 coils on the following wed.
Well I hope you don't run into the small spring problem I had with one of the adapters here. Otherwise they are idea for being able to carrying the iSticks on you all the time! Always glad to hear from someone close! I know another couple locally who attend a number of vaping meets but mainly are busy on one of the social networks. 
The innokin products don't work like that. The voltage goes up with the wattage like every regulated device. You can only be in one mode or the other, not adjust then independently. A lot of people were confused by that. When you switch back to voltage it just remembers your setting, but I repeat, you can not adjust voltage and wattage separately on the innokin products
The same with the eGo-V or any other vv/vw type battery or device where there are two mods but only one displayed. The iStick along with other newer mods display both one larger then the other while with the innokin or others you don't see the wattage move with voltage or voltage with wattage since there are two separate settings. Yet the vape is the same for 7w as it is for 3.8v on those batteries and mods while the iStick will show 3.6v when set at 7w. This is one reason why I went for the Eleaf Ohm and Power meter to see just what is actually being seen on the tank side of the equation since I should be seeing 7.6w instead of 7w when switching back from setting the voltage at 3.8v!
So after nearly burning down my apartment yesterday, I put all of the hot items away and pondered what I did wrong hacking my iSticks. Bring on a new day and new thoughts. This morning while I had a slow period at work I attempted again. I had fantastic success, both of my iSticks have been upgraded to to a custom plastic top cap with FDV V4 510's, re-wrapped the wrapps they had on them and currently chraging . These will still see front line duty daily use at work 
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My IPV mini will be kept at home and only go out on those special occasions.
hacking my iSticks. Bring on a new day and new thoughts. This morning while I had a slow period at work I attempted again. I had fantastic success, both of my iSticks have been upgraded to to a custom plastic top cap with FDV V4 510's, re-wrapped the wrapps they had on them and currently chraging . These will still see front line duty daily use at work . My IPV mini will be kept at home and only go out on those special occasions.
Exactly. People seem to be confused by what wattage mode actually is/does. You are still outputting voltage in wattage mode. The only difference is the device adjusts what voltage is going out based on your coil resistance to give you the desired wattage (heat at coil). This is why mean vs. RMS is actually important, mean is far less accurate. It doesn't actually vape hotter at certain wattage level, it's really giving higher wattage then selected (or lower in some cases). Mods really need to start coming with more detailed instruction cards to explain volt/watt operation, for this is a common misconception, specially in the MVP and itaste vv. I've heard many times, "I have my wattage set to x, what should I set my voltage to?" And vise versa. And many new vapers ask what wattage they should vape at, instead of just adjusting to taste like the istick needs.
So on top of the shipping status changing, i just was contacted and was offered one of the acrylic top caps So i guess mine won't stay stock for long...lol
@geekmedic, is the V4 the best 510 to use? Also any tricks/tips for swapping the caps over?
So i guess mine won't stay stock for long...lol@geekmedic, is the V4 the best 510 to use? Also any tricks/tips for swapping the caps over?
So on top of the shipping status changing, i just was contacted and was offered one of the acrylic top caps
@geekmedic, is the V4 the best 510 to use? Also any tricks/tips for swapping the caps over?
The only difference between the V4 and V3 that I can see is the V4 does NOT come apart completly like shown in the video on FD website, just remove the little o-ring prior to adding the heat to solder. The V4 landing pads can be swapped on the fly as well, V3 you would need to place the landing pad on befor final assembly.
As far as the caps go, look to YT for a video. Remove the top and bottom caps, pull off the black plastic face plate. Take out the buttons, and the whole internals will slide out.
My advise and what I ended up doing, solder short + &- leads onto the FDV and splice the leads from the board. I'm not comfortable de-soldering the board. Just don't use to much lead length, not much room up topside.
Good luck, any questions send me a PM and I'm happy to help.
I decided on the V3 short with a 22mm washer. I found the videos for soldering the 510, but i can't find any videos pertaining to the cap replacement.
Thankfully i have been doing RC/small solder jobs for years so working with little space is not to scary, i just don't want to blow up the battery O_O
Thankfully i have been doing RC/small solder jobs for years so working with little space is not to scary, i just don't want to blow up the battery O_O
In this time of holiday cheer, may we all gather near. Forgetting our past transgressions and pursuing future progression.
Happy Holidays To You And Yours!
~ Shadav
The Forgotten One
"There's a fine line between happy and crazy; I'm not sure which side of the line I'm on today!" ~ Shadav
Happy Holidays To You And Yours!
~ Shadav
The Forgotten One
"There's a fine line between happy and crazy; I'm not sure which side of the line I'm on today!" ~ Shadav
You may remembering me mentioning 7w in the watts mode and 3.8v in the voltage mode. Upon checking things out on one of the eGo-V V3 batteries to see just what was the actual output seen with each mode and remembering what I was saying seeming the exact same while differently? Well the actual output was indentical at 3.6v 6.4w with the 2ohm coils in use on the Smok Tumbler tanks and that was set for 7w. When checking in the voltage mode set at 3.8v it read 3.6v 6.4w and once again 2ohms for the tank in use.
The display settings are where the conflicts are to be seen since they show one thing while taking into account the calculated real time results at the other end. When taking the meter to the newer eGo-V V4 battery next since the iStick kept showing Low Power when set at 13w? Yet working well on both the regulated and mesh epipe mods I found at 7w the voltage on the newer battery was set at 4.4v with the meter showing a 1.3ohm coil? with 3.8v and 11.1w at the end. I found that a bit odd since the Smok coils only go down 1.8ohm. Once the meter was removed however the battery showed 2.4ohms which would be correct since I do have a few 2.4s that got mixed in with the cleaning of the 2ohm coils.
That I'll leave as a mystery however since the batteries are left running one at a time for having a menthol flavor going at the lower wattage while i may switch between different mods with some other flavor. One thing I can that has been observed is the flavor can be effected moving a tank back and forth between something with a sealed battery and something running with 18650s like a Vamo. You can them at set at the same wattage but still see varying results. I suspect the consistency of the output between batteries and devices is the main reason.
Anyways we'll have to pick this up at another time.
since I wanted to say have a "HAPPY And SAFE" holiday everyone!I think you will be very happy with the V3, I just ordered a V4 low profile. And those soldering skills will come in handy. I flew R/C planes and usually can remove everthing I needed for soldering. Just rember your battery safety and you will be fine. As far as I can tell there are no videos showing the top cap replacement, if you've found the YT video on the disassembly you should be able to figure it all out pretty simple.
I just ordered an istick! Mostly for its pocket ability since right now I have a Vtr.
I'm planning on using an Iclear30s and protank3 with an areotank base, will either of this depress my centre pin?
I'm planning on using an Iclear30s and protank3 with an areotank base, will either of this depress my centre pin?
You may remembering me mentioning 7w in the watts mode and 3.8v in the voltage mode. Upon checking things out on one of the eGo-V V3 batteries to see just what was the actual output seen with each mode and remembering what I was saying seeming the exact same while differently? Well the actual output was indentical at 3.6v 6.4w with the 2ohm coils in use on the Smok Tumbler tanks and that was set for 7w. When checking in the voltage mode set at 3.8v it read 3.6v 6.4w and once again 2ohms for the tank in use.
The display settings are where the conflicts are to be seen since they show one thing while taking into account the calculated real time results at the other end. When taking the meter to the newer eGo-V V4 battery next since the iStick kept showing Low Power when set at 13w? Yet working well on both the regulated and mesh epipe mods I found at 7w the voltage on the newer battery was set at 4.4v with the meter showing a 1.3ohm coil? with 3.8v and 11.1w at the end. I found that a bit odd since the Smok coils only go down 1.8ohm. Once the meter was removed however the battery showed 2.4ohms which would be correct since I do have a few 2.4s that got mixed in with the cleaning of the 2ohm coils.
That I'll leave as a mystery however since the batteries are left running one at a time for having a menthol flavor going at the lower wattage while i may switch between different mods with some other flavor. One thing I can that has been observed is the flavor can be effected moving a tank back and forth between something with a sealed battery and something running with 18650s like a Vamo. You can them at set at the same wattage but still see varying results. I suspect the consistency of the output between batteries and devices is the main reason.
Anyways we'll have to pick this up at another time.
Depending on what mods you are switching between, the difference in flavor probably had to do with the pwm freq differences or pwm vs dc to dc.
Hey y'all, Merry Christmas. I just received the istick as a gift. The instructions say to fill out the warranty card. There is no warranty card. Is this common?
Since January I have been mostly with the eGo-V series VV/VW batteries as well as the MVP,, Vamo V2 until passed along, Smok Groove II that went dead in under 6 months when going to use that nightly being replaced with the VTR, and soon after the Vamo V5 followed by the V6 rather quickly I would say in just a few months time where things could be noticed.
When first ordering the iStick I had then looked over the V6 as well as the V7 and V8 35w versions but went with the V6 for the adjustable smoke time(10-30second draw time adjustable) as well as having the adjustable center pin. It was when moving a tank with a specific flavor around you would notice a difference right off with the same settings suggesting the amperage was different. It wasn't any large contrast however but just enough to be noticed!
The amperage difference should only be noticeable when vaping at high wattage at the limits of the amp output of the various devices. The amp draw at say 3.7 volts, on the same coil, will have the same amp draw across the devices. The difference in taste between the devices is due to the difference in how each mod regulates its voltage
Sent with one hand, the other is busy vaping.
Sent with one hand, the other is busy vaping.
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