Eleaf Istick

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aldenf

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Open question to anyone that opened the istick up.

How is the ground wire attached to the top plate?
I am going to be rebuilding with new plastic top caps (thanks David) and FDV V4 510. I want to maximize the stock wiring and splice as little as possible.

You may not be able to tell from these photos. But the ground wire is soldered to a "brassy" or "coppery" pin on the top cap. You can see the ground wire and pin a bit in the second photo. I am soldering directly to the brass nut on the FD 510 when I finally decide on a chipset to implant into my dead istick. (Come on Evolv. Waiting on your 25w board!)

Here ya go...

Broken_iStick_02.jpg


Broken_iStick_01.jpg
 
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EKat

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Someone's post farther back mentioned how great this istick is and that they are getting the same kind of performance at a 7.0 watt that they were getting from 11 watts on the MVP....I can't find the post but can some of you who like this mod agree with that? I was hearing great things up until the last couple days on here. Those that love it , what do u love?
 
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aldenf

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Someone's post farther back mentioned how great this istick is and that they are getting the same kind of performance at a 7.0 watt that they were getting from 11 watts on the MVP....I can't find the post but can some of you who like this mod agree with that? I was hearing great things up until the last couple days on here. Those that love it speak to me if u don't mind...:vapor:

A far majority of us here love our iStick(s). Some get a little frustrated at time with the compromised engineering and spotty quality control. It is a brilliant little device. The form-factor is impossible to beat. There's a post a few pages back with a chart to help with voltage output. Thinking in watts is very difficult with the iStick.

Many are waiting to hear feedback/reviews on the new Cloupor Mini which should fall in the $30-35 range. We're hoping Cloupor learned from their past mistakes and built a solid v1 device.


ETA: Here's the post I was referring to:

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...ion/634223-fine-tune-easily-istick-eleaf.html
 
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EKat

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I agree, Burnie. I was running my MVP 2.0 right at 11w all day every day…I have discovered with the iStick that I can get the same quality vapor and taste on a much lower wattage setting…between 6.5 and 7.5w. I start out lower when the battery is fresh, and just occasionally have to adjust up as the battery drains or to find the "sweet spot" of different juices. I feel like the feature of the iStick that many people are freaking out about or don't like allows me to save my battery life! I like it so much that it is my current go-to setup, I bought two more so that I can always have a fully charged backup to swap out, and I'm super pleased to have a cheap, easy to use, compact setup that runs for days the way I vape. That is all I was ever looking for, cheap, decently made, compact and gets the job done.

Found it! :)
 
Neither has either of the two of them here. Going from the iStick to another mod or APV that allows for separate voltage adjustment to that at 3.8v while bumping the watts up to 7w for example on the MVP, VTR, or other battery or device like the iTaste VV V3.0 will effect things differently then the iStick will at 7w where the voltage goes up at the same time meaning the amps out also climbs at different ratio and why a difference may be noticed with two at the same wattage or voltage settings.

If the watts go up on the iStick so do the volts unlike the iTaste stuff or an eGo-V V3 or V4 Mega battery where once again if you leave the voltage at 3.8v it stays the same while the wattage is turned up since there two separate modes while the IStick only changed which one is in large display. This is where the differences can seen between any two batteries, mods, APVs, or one compared to the next. The MVP for example goes from 3.3v like any Vamo or the VTR upto 5v max while the iStick ranges from 3v upto 5.5v with the voltage synced with the wattage when adjusting one seeing the other move with it while MVP sees the voltage remain the same despite turning the watts up from 6w to the 11w max. A reduced amperage is seen.
 

geekmedic

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I desperately miss having a proper shop, apartment living is not conducive to HOT metal parts:unsure:.
My soldering skills stink:mad:.
While I really like the iStick, I do believe modding it should be left to those more capable than myself.

Found a video and I managed to open up my first one. Never knew that it had a plastic film over the display until I took off my beloved wrap:facepalm:. Carefully took it apart and got to the required wires. The stock wires are IMO to small and to short to be worth reusing:2c:. After nearly and hour and half of farting around, what have I ended up with? One non-functional iStick, mocked up complete and wishing I had more talent so it would work. Even with the plastic top cap it is still a small compact device and perfect for running around town.

The FDV V4 center pin does not come apart like the V3. Highly recommend taking the little rubber piece off before attempting to solder it.

It has now become a challenge to me to get the little tyrant up and running, hope it happens before 2015
 

pokemom

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Someone's post farther back mentioned how great this istick is and that they are getting the same kind of performance at a 7.0 watt that they were getting from 11 watts on the MVP....I can't find the post but can some of you who like this mod agree with that? I was hearing great things up until the last couple days on here. Those that love it , what do u love?

I love these little guys. Bought one the first week they were available & a second a week later. I didn't have any problem with either. One carries a nautilus mini set at 10.5 istick watts & the other has an aerotank v1 at 8.0 istick watts (both using stock 1.8 coils).

When the big $17 dollar sale came along, I bought a third. It has an Anyvape Davide with a 1.8 bvc coil.

Haven't had threading problems, button problems or any other problems (knocking wood now). After all the talk about threading issues, I put some AFC adapters that I had hanging around on each device. Raises the tank minimally, but it works fine.

I will say that I can't use my PT 2 on it because I don't rebuild or re wick and no matter what voltage or wattage I use it at, it burns. So it has been relegated to a VV3.


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I still use mine while I also have another mod out of the same mod stand. At the moment I have three things on being tne ZNA 50 with the Atlantis on top, one of the eGo-V V3 batteries, and the Vamo Fire 20w APV with the 5ml Nautilus sitting on top of that one. A SMOK Tumbler is on the eGo-V battery as usual.

I just swapped tanks from glass to stainless over glass on the second Nautilus Mini on the second iStick as well as topped off the tank since I first had to drain the glass one and the swap that off for the one that finally came in today. That was supposed to be last week about wednesday or thurday and then Friday and then finally saw the tracking update late last night that it would be here today. Vape Mail slow as snails lately!Still waiting for the post office in China to ship the E-LVT 2.0 I ordered back on the night of the 7th. FT had it out on the 8th! ssslowwww.....
 

chanelvaps

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wow-thank you so much for explaining that to me. I have always wondered why I get taken back to the same page where as others are able to go where directed.
looks right to me > click on the link for the 'older folks and vaping front porch' ;)

edit - never mind! i get it now :D
but the reason for people being directed differently is their page setting. some get 10 posts per page, others 40. the link to a post will only work properly if people have the same 'posts per page' settings
 

pokemom

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Quick Question-

On those Airflow Controllers- They are 2 piece? Can I just use the one piece with the threads???

That didn't work for me. But I do keep the entire thing closed since my clearomizers have air flow controls.


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