Eleaf Istick
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There's no mistake about that being a Nautilus with a close look at the stainless steel portion at the top with the thumb grip type grooving. I suspect the bands were slipped on to act as protection for the glass portion of the tank.
Two of the five Nautilus 5ml tanks here saw the SS replacement go on as well as replacing the glass with stainless on the two Mini tanks used on the pair of iSticks here. The fwo full size with stainless are on the Smok Guardian E-Pipe II mod that just came and the Vamo Fire wood bodied APV I tend to walk around with at times. I had one of the iSticks sitting there with the Aerotank Mini and Eleaf Ohm and Power meter when grabbing a snapshot of the Vamo Fire and eGo-V batteries the day those came in the meter ordered at AtlantA Vapor coming in the same day.
Two of the five Nautilus 5ml tanks here saw the SS replacement go on as well as replacing the glass with stainless on the two Mini tanks used on the pair of iSticks here. The fwo full size with stainless are on the Smok Guardian E-Pipe II mod that just came and the Vamo Fire wood bodied APV I tend to walk around with at times. I had one of the iSticks sitting there with the Aerotank Mini and Eleaf Ohm and Power meter when grabbing a snapshot of the Vamo Fire and eGo-V batteries the day those came in the meter ordered at AtlantA Vapor coming in the same day.
Well tonight my iStick decided that everything was an Atomizer Short tonight, I pulled up on the pin and that didn't solve my issue at all. So when stuff stops working one tears it apart to see the issue.
You can see the cheap stock rubber insulator on the lower left, it had totally split in half causing the pin to short against the case. I compared the KangerTech BDC updated coil insulator with the Aspire BVC Insulator and the KangerTech is silicone so it will withstand the heat of a soldering iron.
Turn off the iStick with 5 clicks. Remove the top two T4 screws, hold the iStick with the button panel facing down and pull out the internals as far as they will go. (Picture shows how far they will come out.) You only need to unsolder the Red wire from the 510 pin and push the pin back up through the hole in the case top and remove the old rubber insulator if it is still on the pin.
Take out the insulator from the KangerTech Updated BDC coil and put the end that was inside the coil body down through the hole in the top of the iStick. One end of the insulator has more of a shoulder than the other and you want that end next to the 510 pin top.
With the new silicone insulator installed in the hole, push your 510 pin carefully through it from the top, soldered end first. Resolder the red wire to the 510 pin, turn the iStick back on with 5 clicks and test it with an atty.
If all is good then turn it off again. Hold the iStick with the button panel facing down and slide the battery and board back into the case. If you don't hold it with the buttons facing down they will catch on the board switches.
Carefully tuck the wires back in as you push the case top back in place. Check all around it as you do this to make sure there are no wires jammed it the top or around the screw holes, put the case screws back in the top and test the unit again.
I can't tell you how long the KangerTech silicone insulator will last, but I will be finding out for sure!
You can see the cheap stock rubber insulator on the lower left, it had totally split in half causing the pin to short against the case. I compared the KangerTech BDC updated coil insulator with the Aspire BVC Insulator and the KangerTech is silicone so it will withstand the heat of a soldering iron.
Turn off the iStick with 5 clicks. Remove the top two T4 screws, hold the iStick with the button panel facing down and pull out the internals as far as they will go. (Picture shows how far they will come out.) You only need to unsolder the Red wire from the 510 pin and push the pin back up through the hole in the case top and remove the old rubber insulator if it is still on the pin.
Take out the insulator from the KangerTech Updated BDC coil and put the end that was inside the coil body down through the hole in the top of the iStick. One end of the insulator has more of a shoulder than the other and you want that end next to the 510 pin top.
With the new silicone insulator installed in the hole, push your 510 pin carefully through it from the top, soldered end first. Resolder the red wire to the 510 pin, turn the iStick back on with 5 clicks and test it with an atty.
If all is good then turn it off again. Hold the iStick with the button panel facing down and slide the battery and board back into the case. If you don't hold it with the buttons facing down they will catch on the board switches.
Carefully tuck the wires back in as you push the case top back in place. Check all around it as you do this to make sure there are no wires jammed it the top or around the screw holes, put the case screws back in the top and test the unit again.
I can't tell you how long the KangerTech silicone insulator will last, but I will be finding out for sure!
Very good description of your repair. Thank you. I have 3 Isticks and have performed the #60 O-ring repair on all three. So far they are working fine, but I may need to go this route eventually. Thanks again.
very nice job! TrollDragon I e-mailed Eleaf and asked if they would make the chrome 510 top cap available, for sale. Their first response was that they would forward my suggestion to the R&D team. 
2nd e-mail, Will you make the existing part available? Myself and others have iSticks with bad threading and need replacements. I'll post what they say. Course it would be better if it was stainless, and a better insulator, and a spring loaded pin. hmm.. need start up capital.. partner.. and of course FDA on our side.. 
their reply:
Dear friend,
Thanks for your reply and sorry for the inconvenience.
We understand what you mean, but now we don't have this accessory.
Hope you can understand and if any problems feel free to contact us.
2nd e-mail, Will you make the existing part available? Myself and others have iSticks with bad threading and need replacements. I'll post what they say. Course it would be better if it was stainless, and a better insulator, and a spring loaded pin. hmm.. need start up capital.. partner.. and of course FDA on our side.. their reply:
Dear friend,
Thanks for your reply and sorry for the inconvenience.
We understand what you mean, but now we don't have this accessory.
Hope you can understand and if any problems feel free to contact us.
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On my one warped threaded iStick, I was still having connection issues with the bending adapter installed. The spring loaded pin was depressing too hard on the 510 connection obliterating a resistance reading and causing "atomizer low/short message." Basically, the atty would be raised above the bending adapter to read properly; if it was screwed down flush, no reading.
So I finally got smart and just placed a spare O ring under the bending adapter and now it works as it should. Luckily I have spare O rings galore due to owning 8 RTAs and several drippers
The first one I tried was too thick; the second one works, but the clasp on the bending adapter doesn't snap into place. But at least it's reading the atty while sitting flush.
A quick, dirty fix.
Although I picked up an IPV Mini, I still prefer my iSticks as my daily carry to work.
So I finally got smart and just placed a spare O ring under the bending adapter and now it works as it should. Luckily I have spare O rings galore due to owning 8 RTAs and several drippers
The first one I tried was too thick; the second one works, but the clasp on the bending adapter doesn't snap into place. But at least it's reading the atty while sitting flush.A quick, dirty fix.
Although I picked up an IPV Mini, I still prefer my iSticks as my daily carry to work.
very nice job! TrollDragon I e-mailed Eleaf and asked if they would make the chrome 510 top cap available, for sale. Their first response was that they would forward my suggestion to the R&D team.
their reply:
Dear friend,
Thanks for your reply and sorry for the inconvenience.
We understand what you mean, but now we don't have this accessory.
Hope you can understand and if any problems feel free to contact us.
I would suggest to them that they use the spring-loaded pin from the bending adapter and install it in the iStick instead of having us buy another accessory.
Got my case and a bottle of juice! Very nice and a great deal! Thanks for sharing the info!
Got my case and a bottle of juice! Very nice and a great deal! Thanks for sharing the info!
hmpf, hmpf, hmpf! you got to that sale in time and you ordered 1?
bad tweety! 
I ordered 2 right after seeing the post. Got an email from them saying thisGot my case and a bottle of juice! Very nice and a great deal! Thanks for sharing the info!
I replied that I would wait.
Great answer, thanks so much for the info. I'm running Kayfuns with 1.2 to 1.4 ohm coils. I usually run them at 20 watts or whatever is needed to get them to 5 volts. Do you think the Panasonic 18650 3400 Mah batteries are safe for me to use in the Chana 30 watt?
You are aware that the battery in the Istick isn't a LiPo, right?
very nice job! TrollDragon I e-mailed Eleaf and asked if they would make the chrome 510 top cap available, for sale. Their first response was that they would forward my suggestion to the R&D team.
their reply:
Dear friend,
Thanks for your reply and sorry for the inconvenience.
We understand what you mean, but now we don't have this accessory.
Hope you can understand and if any problems feel free to contact us.
My guess is that they're just fine with us having to buy a new istick rather than making a $3 part available.
I know of no one having disassembled the battery in the iStick (yet). I am under the impression that it is a LiPo(ly) batt.
I am happy to be corrected if wrong. But this is a version of the battery that is used in the iStick. No?
http://www.globalmarket.com/product-info/polymer-cylindrical-battery-8355231.html
This is a photo of an early iStick battery, originally posted by KTMRider at post #5992...
The battery's chemistry is not mentioned on the labeling. It is Chinese made. I wouldn't bet on anything...
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Panasonic 18650 3400mAh NCR18650B
Pany's NCR18650B, rated for 3400mAh is also rated at a 2C maximum discharge rate, giving it a 6.8A maximum discharge. This is borderline acceptable for the iStick. I personally would not recommend it for use in a 30W device. You could use it in an emergency. BUT keep it NO MORE THAN 19W... Be careful with batteries. They can bite.
Those are 18650 lithium batteries and certainly too large for the size of the iStick. When listening to all the hubla earlier about pwd and RMS and how the wave is and regarding what battery does go in...
The blog also goes into the need for more available wattage for the latest sub ohm tanks as well. Battery Life; iStick vs DNA; LiPo vs 18650 Li-Ion/Hybrid; SubTank & Atlantis.
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