Eleaf Istick

[Sunray]

I guess being old has its advantages, my old ears can't hear the buttons rattle unless I literally hold it next to my ear and shake it

You lucked out and got a good one, much like my 20 watt which does not rattle. My 30 watt fire button have a lot of play which cause it to rattle but it really does not bother me as long as it fires. That is the most important thing to me.

 

[aldenf]

Oh sorry I got confused. I meant the Lemo, not the Melo. Dunno why eleaf released two atomizers that were so similar in name at the same time. The Melo isn't a rebuildable though, so I guess it's priced correctly.

It's a shame these vape companies are moving more towards the enclosed Aspire coils that are very difficult to rebuild. It's gonna be sad when the exposed wick Kanger coils are completely discontinued. The protank 2 coils are more expensive now too.

But the new OCC coils in the SubTanks are easier to rebuild than the original Kangers and vape better to boot! The SubTank Mini & Nano look to be great new options and don't require the same power as the BVCs. I will be looking for the first big sale on the Mini & Nano. I will simply replace the red o-rings with black ones or perhaps purple!

 

[aznnp77]

Just received my istick. Just like everyone else, I didn't receive an ego adapter. It comes in a separate parts kit just like everyone else said.



First thing I did was put my protank 2 (with aerotank v1 510 base) on it. It would not recognize it.

I put my kayfun on there and it worked fine. It for sure does not fire as hot as the 20w. People are saying that it still fires 0.4 volts too hot. Seems a little under-powered to me.

I'll put an ego/510 adapter from my 20w on it and report back in a little bit.

I'm back: First thing I noticed was the button rattle. My 20w didn't rattle like this, so it's a lil bit irritating.
Secondly, the voltage moves much quicker than the 20w. I know they did that intentionally.

Admittedly, my Protank base is a very worn, but it always fired on my ego twist and my 20w. Even with the ego adapter, it still would not fire on my istick. I guess it's from months of abuse on a non adjustable pin.

I just tried my other 2 bases and they both worked, so I guess I'll have to retire that one. Oh well.

I don't like the overhang of the istick 30w. Now I have to hold it a little differently. Other than that, it's what I expected.

 

[Javamon]

My new iStick friends - anyone have any tip pointers for me? Please check out my thread if you have time. Thank you.

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/e-cigarette-accessories-discussion/643426-help-me-find-narrow-short-tip.html#post15051123

 

[Tmebs]

Just my and I've said it before, but if anyone is still on the fence about a RDA for their Istick......I have to say ATOMIC.
The reason I am pointing this out again is because of lurking on the VapeNW site....trying to pull the trigger on the 50W....I found on the clearance section the Atomic for 14.99!
It really is the perfect size and vapes amazing (right up there with my Magma) at 1- 1.1 ohm coil.
And for the non RDA folks......Aspire vivi nova S glass (would suggest new bvc coils) 3.99................I don't know maybe I don"t shop around enough but those seem like good mates to the Istick at good prices.......plus the vivi's come in all those colors!!!!

 

[Alicenwonderland]

My I stick 30w came as a full kit. Ego adaptor, charging cable, and usb adaptor. I bought it at myvaporstore. It was 37.99. I really like it so far. I had been using ego batteries, but prefer a warmer vape. The rattle from the button is my only irritation, but that is minor.

 

[jerseyman32]

Any confirmed release date for the 50 watt? Ive seen alot of pre- sales going on for it.

 

[shack22]

The production line worker in charge of thread quality control on 20w was apparently transferred to button rattle qc on 30w. Only had one job and...

 

[Bikenstein]

Plume veil .4 ohm at 30w HUGE Clouds HUGE Flavor.....PEANUT BUTTER CUP never tasted so good

 

[Javamon]

I say this in fun, but I Do get a kick out of those who get a little bent about the button rattle.
Yeah, the button not triggering would be a no go, but buttons making a little rattle noise - I gotta give that a little tee hee.
Ok, carry on.

 

[shack22]

But the new OCC coils in the SubTanks are easier to rebuild than the original Kangers and vape better to boot! The SubTank Mini & Nano look to be great new options and don't require the same power as the BVCs. I will be looking for the first big sale on the Mini & Nano. I will simply replace the red o-rings with black ones or perhaps purple!

You're right aldenf-- rebuilding the OCC coils looks pretty easy. Here's a good video. I think you mentioned you rebuild Kangers vertically(could be wrong)which I find works great. It would be interesting to see how a vertical OCC rebuild would work in the SubTank. Any reason why it wouldn't? Since the Nano SubTank doesn't have the RTA option, being able to rebuild the coils would make it a pretty affordable option for the iStick 30w(or 20w if above 1 ohm)-- probably look great size wise also.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NLO7SEDrcNo

 

[shack22]

I say this in fun, but I Do get a kick out of those who get a little bent about the button rattle.
Yeah, the button not triggering would be a no go, but buttons making a little rattle noise - I gotta give that a little tee hee.
Ok, carry on.

Sure could have been alot worse!

 

[USMCotaku]

Oh sorry I got confused. I meant the Lemo, not the Melo. Dunno why eleaf released two atomizers that were so similar in name at the same time. The Melo isn't a rebuildable though, so I guess it's priced correctly.

It's a shame these vape companies are moving more towards the enclosed Aspire coils that are very difficult to rebuild. It's gonna be sad when the exposed wick Kanger coils are completely discontinued. The protank 2 coils are more expensive now too.

The new occ heads for the sub tank are rebuildable....... They are actually easier to build then the rba head that came with the tank

 

[scaredmice]

You're right aldenf-- rebuilding the OCC coils looks pretty easy. Here's a good video. I think you mentioned you rebuild Kangers vertically(could be wrong)which I find works great. It would be interesting to see how a vertical OCC rebuild would work in the SubTank. Any reason why it wouldn't? Since the Nano SubTank doesn't have the RTA option, being able to rebuild the coils would make it a pretty affordable option for the iStick 30w(or 20w if above 1 ohm)-- probably look great size wise also.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NLO7SEDrcNo

After watching that video what I can see is a housing formally similar to a Fogger V3 o Taifun GT..... in a Kanger rebuildable and with 25 mm diameter.....

Of course, the commercial setup is not that one, but what the video shows, once it's hand-made rebuilt, is closely that.....

And I can also see plenty of space for my beloved BVC coils with Japanese cotton...those must rock on there!

I bet that the announced 22 mm version would also work really good in that way. Otherwise, the RBA base is functionally similar to the Aqua V1/Fogger V4, but in single coil (unless you put two in strictly parallel electrical and geometrical setup).... if only it had bigger input holes!

I'm just chit-chatting... I do not have into my mind that kind of purchase, because I'm really served with my several Tridents, Stillares, Foggers and Aerotanks, but I couldn't help to notice and to tell all of you......

 

[USMCotaku]

You're right aldenf-- rebuilding the OCC coils looks pretty easy. Here's a good video. I think you mentioned you rebuild Kangers vertically(could be wrong)which I find works great. It would be interesting to see how a vertical OCC rebuild would work in the SubTank. Any reason why it wouldn't? Since the Nano SubTank doesn't have the RTA option, being able to rebuild the coils would make it a pretty affordable option for the iStick 30w(or 20w if above 1 ohm)-- probably look great size wise also.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NLO7SEDrcNo

Wicking a vertical coil would be a bit difficult in this head, but these heads don't need a vertical coil, they already have great airflow. One thing I've noticed on rebuilding these is getting the wicking right is more crucial then with the old kanger heads. Don't leave the wick out of the holes at all, out won't wick fast enough and you will get dry hits. Use a blunt poker and push the wick into the holes.......... Like in this video
http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=WMUOtwsd7_E

 

[spartanstew]

My 30W istick that I ordered from evape.us last week arrived today - and it's the original istick.


&*#@##&*

 

[aznnp77]

The new occ heads for the sub tank are rebuildable....... They are actually easier to build then the rba head that came with the tank

I will make the wreckless statement (not knowing much about Eleaf tanks) that this is just another e-cig company pumping out new tanks for the purposes of having a new tanks.

Like Kanger with their Protank and Aerotank. Then they release the genitank, which is basically an aerotank without stainless steel for $10 less. Completely pointless IMO.

The next generation appears to be the rebuildable/premade coil hybrid tanks. I've long lost track of anything that's been going on lately. Perhaps if they could keep the release gaps from 6 months to a year it would be possible to follow. It just feels like a new tank is being released every 3 weeks.

/end rant.

 

[aldenf]

You're right aldenf-- rebuilding the OCC coils looks pretty easy. Here's a good video. I think you mentioned you rebuild Kangers vertically(could be wrong)which I find works great. It would be interesting to see how a vertical OCC rebuild would work in the SubTank. Any reason why it wouldn't? Since the Nano SubTank doesn't have the RTA option, being able to rebuild the coils would make it a pretty affordable option for the iStick 30w(or 20w if above 1 ohm)-- probably look great size wise also.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NLO7SEDrcNo

I do rebuild my Kanger heads with vertical coils. They perform much better regarding flavor and vapor production. It's the same difference as between Aspire's BDCs & BVCs. If I could fit a 3mm horizontal coil in the "old style" Kanger heads and fit the wicking material AND get e-liquid to the wick fast enough... In fact that is the last project for today. I'll let you know how I make out.

As for BVCs in the OCC head, let me start by saying I don't own a SubTank yet and these are just educated guesses. Firstly, BVCs require significantly more power to perform well. My Kanger BVCs require 2-3 more watts to match the performance of a good horizontal build and a total of 15W to really spread their wings. But they're still not as good as my RTAs. My goal is to achieve the best vape under 20W. I've been vaping my Kayfun @ 23W for 4+ hours on my 30W iStick and the battery indicator tells me I will have a dead battery long before I go to bed. Yet I can vape at 15W all day long with battery life to spare. My goal is to find the most efficient build with acceptable performance. It is partially a study in thermal dynamics, which is not my specialty.

The OCC head is massive and will require an equally massive coil to avoid wicking issues. Regardless, I think that wicking will be the biggest hassle for BVCs in the OCC head. If I can easily build and wick a horizontal coil with great performance at 15 - 20W and save myself the trouble of wicking a BVC, and get through the entire day on one battery/charge, that is what I'll do.

 

[shack22]

My 30W istick that I ordered from evape.us last week arrived today - and it's the original istick.


&*#@##&*

Ooh--now that's disappointing. There should be an "unlike" button here--almost clicked "like"-- would not be appropriate!

 

[aldenf]

My 30W istick that I ordered from evape.us last week arrived today - and it's the original istick.


&*#@##&*

Sorry to hear that. What a PITA.

Somebody in fulfillment was hung over...