Eleaf Istick

[samwest]

Rattle or no rattle, I'm gettin' another 30Watt. Black this time. I'll give the silver to my kid. I've noticed a lot of provari' for sale on the classies. I sold my 3 year old V1 and bought the wife a sofia and tank for her istick 20 watt. I'd trade my Provari mini (keepin' the standard one forever) for two 30 Watters. I'm just so impressed with these little jewels.

 

[Katdarling]

I have twelve istick 30's, none rattle inside.

The external button will rattle if I intentionally shake it, but I don't do that.

Why do people shake their isticks so much?

I say...... Shake'it. Shake'it!

Go for the 30W. It'll last longer and he won't have as much trouble with the threading and pin, which means he'll be more likely to keep on vaping.

Agreed. It just makes sense to now go with the 30w.

---------------------

Only you......

 

[ruet]

Just picked up a 30w from a local B&M. It was a tad pricey (Ohhhhh B&M's) but it works as expected without any button rattle. My 20's don't rattle either though. Now all I need is for them to re-stock SUBTANK Mini's and I'll have finally found my Holy Grail of vaping setup. ...I think.

Perfection confirmed! So perfect, in fact, that I gave my Mom one of my 20's and ran out and got her a ST-Mini. She's had a rough go of it; staying off the stinkies. This might just be the combination that finally gets her through it.

 

[shack22]

One thing I noticed:
Regular charging, all is normal.
Pass-through charging, battery heats up.
Chain-vaping while pass through, gets warmer than might be advised for long term battery care/life.
(heat while charging LiPo not good)

I unplug for a few minutes if it gets warm. I've been using devices in passthrough mode for almost four years now. I know some folks think it's ill advised though.

 

[ccwaters]

Have you guys noticed not only the buttons rattle, but when I shake my istick 30w I feel the entire insides moving.

Yes, mine has both button rattle, and battery, China QC, but I still love the 30.

 

[Zanzabar78]

I have twelve iStick 30's, none rattle inside.

The external button will rattle if I intentionally shake it, but I don't do that.

12?! Whoa, and I was really splurging getting a 2nd as a backup lol

 

[Bikenstein]

Quote Originally Posted by inspects View Post

I have twelve iStick 30's, none rattle inside. The external button will rattle if I intentionally shake it, but I don't do that.
12?!

Whoa, and I was really splurging getting a 2nd as a backup lol


That's why they can't keep em in stock

 

[Bikenstein]

i have one 20w-no rattle

what? I cain't hear ya!

 

[Shadav]

so anyone know cheaper than sweet vapes joking....that's the cheapest for a full kit (at least that I could find)
$39.95 + $3 s&h = $42.95
Includes:
1 x Eleaf iStick 30 W Battery
1 x 510 - eGo Thread Adapter
1 x Micro USB Cable
1 x Wall Adapter
1 x User Manual
1 x Box Packaging with Authenticity Sticker

 

[Adina]

so anyone know cheaper than sweet vapes joking....that's the cheapest for a full kit (at least that I could find)
$39.95 + $3 s&h = $42.95
Includes:
1 x Eleaf iStick 30 W Battery
1 x 510 - eGo Thread Adapter
1 x Micro USB Cable
1 x Wall Adapter
1 x User Manual
1 x Box Packaging with Authenticity Sticker

$32.30 shipped. use coupon "forum" and make sure you check free shipping, it will automatically get upgraded to priority once it ships since its a "starter kit" (and it comes with everything)
NEW Eleaf Istick 30W Full Kit - $38.00 : Rocky Mountain Vapor, The Mountain top of Electronic Cigarettes

 

[Shadav]

sweet thanks adina, glad i didn't pull the trigger yet
since it's not my money i'm spending wasn't sure if he'd be willing to pay $40....but $30 I know he won't care

 

[Adina]

You're very welcome Yeah I was super happy when I found that site and got mine. Tempted to get another lol But I think I will wait and see if they ever update the mini with the new threads and spring pin. It's so cute..

 

[DaxFX]

After having an exellent experience with my 20w istick, i went and get the 30w and topped with the subtank mini and a .5ohm head, wwwooooo this thing is a beast, i love it, my provary is collecting dust for like 6-7 month since i got my fors 20w istick

 

[Seeker065]

Anyone here had any experience with replacing the batteries on these? From what i gathered, some soldering is involved and I was wondering what would be the easiest way.

 

[aldenf]

Anyone here had any experience with replacing the batteries on these? From what i gathered, some soldering is involved and I was wondering what would be the easiest way.

As you can see the "18650" Li-Po is simply hard-soldered to the chipset. If you're comfortable soldering to a standard 18650, replacing the battery is a piece of cake.

 

[Peteg]

Help please...

Got my iStick 20W a few days ago and it's great! It's my first box mod, and first vw/v v device. If I'd seen the 30W's so cheap now... Oh well, it's great so far.

My question.. I haven't been able to find a posting anywhere online about recommended watts/ volts for certain ohm single/dual coils. I have seen that chart wayy earlier in this thread but I don't think that's what I'm looking for because I burnt my juice at 10w like the chart said I should do. (I think?) I also read to start low and work up to what works best which I did.

Okay, I have have a Protank 3 with a 1.8 ohm coil on my Eleaf iStick.
I started low with watts and around 3.2v to start. I found 6.3 to 7.0 watts and 3.3 to 3.8 volts was giving a good warm vape with a 50/50 mix eliquid. Then I ran
out of that liquid and changed to a lighter liquid with probably around a 70/30 PG/VG mix. Now, no matter where I set the thing, the coils are always crackling for
most of the draw. The vape is good, but is this okay for the coils, or will they run out faster like this?

I also will be using a Kanger T3/s tank and an Evod tank on my iStick, both I believe use a single coil. Will this make a difference at 1.8 ohms? Do
you think I will need to drastically change my settings lower when I put these on? The reason I ask is I see people on youtube easily vaping at 10-12 watts with
no problem? Is it the voltage that makes the big difference? Is there a chart that anyone knows of with optimum settings for what tank or coils you are using?
I also have a protank II coming, but that should be similar to the protank 3. I believe they are both dual coiled.

I can't believe I'm like a newb again even though I've been vaping since 2009. You slow down for a couple years and it's all changed big time! I still have all my old 510 and ego batteries, cartridges, and tons of old cartomizers. I can't believe how far the vaping world has come! And how fast! At least I'm back in the game, and everything is soooo much cheaper now! I remember those first 5mL tanks with the delrin end caps costed like forty or fifty bucks at COV. That guy started something big huh?

Thanks for the help, Pete.

 

[aldenf]

Help please...

Got my iStick 20W a few days ago and it's great! It's my first box mod, and first vw/v v device. If I'd seen the 30W's so cheap now... Oh well, it's great so far.

My question.. I haven't been able to find a posting anywhere online about recommended watts/ volts for certain ohm single/dual coils. I have seen that chart wayy earlier in this thread but I don't think that's what I'm looking for because I burnt my juice at 10w like the chart said I should do. (I think?) I also read to start low and work up to what works best which I did.

Okay, I have have a Protank 3 with a 1.8 ohm coil on my Eleaf iStick.
I started low with watts and around 3.2v to start. I found 6.3 to 7.0 watts and 3.3 to 3.8 volts was giving a good warm vape with a 50/50 mix eliquid. Then I ran
out of that liquid and changed to a lighter liquid with probably around a 70/30 PG/VG mix. Now, no matter where I set the thing, the coils are always crackling for
most of the draw. The vape is good, but is this okay for the coils, or will they run out faster like this?

I also will be using a Kanger T3/s tank and an Evod tank on my iStick, both I believe use a single coil. Will this make a difference at 1.8 ohms? Do
you think I will need to drastically change my settings lower when I put these on? The reason I ask is I see people on youtube easily vaping at 10-12 watts with
no problem? Is it the voltage that makes the big difference? Is there a chart that anyone knows of with optimum settings for what tank or coils you are using?
I also have a protank II coming, but that should be similar to the protank 3. I believe they are both dual coiled.

I can't believe I'm like a newb again even though I've been vaping since 2009. You slow down for a couple years and it's all changed big time! I still have all my old 510 and ego batteries, cartridges, and tons of old cartomizers. I can't believe how far the vaping world has come! And how fast! At least I'm back in the game, and everything is soooo much cheaper now! I remember those first 5mL tanks with the delrin end caps costed like forty or fifty bucks at COV. That guy started something big huh?

Thanks for the help, Pete.

Hey, Pete. Welcome to the iStick family...

I have had the best luck running my iStick 20W in voltage mode. Make sure your coils are primed well. Start at 3V and inch your way up until you find your sweet spot or get dry hits, whichever comes first. The crackling is OK. Many fine clearos and RTAs crackle when you vape them.

Be aware that your single BCC clearos may give you problems @ 1.8Ω. Keep that PG level at 50% or higher and you should be fine. Just be sure to start at 3V and work your way up. The Protank2, EVOD and T3S all use single BCC heads. They are easily rebuilt for a much improved vape.

My blog answers most questions you may have about the iStick.


Good luck!

 

[Katya]

Help please...

Got my iStick 20W a few days ago and it's great! It's my first box mod, and first vw/v v device. If I'd seen the 30W's so cheap now... Oh well, it's great so far.

My question.. I haven't been able to find a posting anywhere online about recommended watts/ volts for certain ohm single/dual coils. I have seen that chart wayy earlier in this thread but I don't think that's what I'm looking for because I burnt my juice at 10w like the chart said I should do. (I think?) I also read to start low and work up to what works best which I did.

The chart is somewhere--I'll try to find. But really all you need to know for now is that your iStick fires at about 1 full volt higher than your display indicates. So, 3.2v is really 4.2 volts. Untill you hit 5.5v or so--then it evens out. You may want to watch Phil Busardo's YouTube review of the iStick--he explains it very well.

Okay, I have have a Protank 3 with a 1.8 ohm coil on my Eleaf iStick.
I started low with watts and around 3.2v to start. I found 6.3 to 7.0 watts and 3.3 to 3.8 volts was giving a good warm vape with a 50/50 mix eliquid. Then I ran
out of that liquid and changed to a lighter liquid with probably around a 70/30 PG/VG mix. Now, no matter where I set the thing, the coils are always crackling for
most of the draw. The vape is good, but is this okay for the coils, or will they run out faster like this?

I use the same coils--I like them at around 4.2-4.6( real volts), so you're fine. They are dual coil atties--they can take more wattage than the singles. If you like it warmer, proceed with caution. Pop and crackle sounds are OK--dry hits are not. If it starts to tase burnt, you've gone too high and your wicks can supply enough ejuice to the coils to keep it wet. Lower your voltage.

Oh, you may want to read this:

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...85-variable-voltage-wattage.html#post15135653

I also will be using a Kanger T3/s tank and an Evod tank on my iStick, both I believe use a single coil. Will this make a difference at 1.8 ohms? Do
you think I will need to drastically change my settings lower when I put these on? The reason I ask is I see people on youtube easily vaping at 10-12 watts with
no problem? Is it the voltage that makes the big difference? Is there a chart that anyone knows of with optimum settings for what tank or coils you are using?
I also have a protank II coming, but that should be similar to the protank 3. I believe they are both dual coiled.

All ProTanks (1 and 2, big and small), eVods (not glass) and T3S(not glass) tanks are single coils. I don't know if you can vape them at the Stick, honestly. Kanger recommends 5-7.5 watts per single coil; a 1.8Ω single coil atty at 4.2v (the lowest wattage you battery is capable of) will generate 9.8 watts--way too hot for stock coils, IMO. I have no idea what people on YOuTube are doing--are they vaping rebuilt coils? If so, those can handle much more wattage than stock coils.

I can't believe I'm like a newb again even though I've been vaping since 2009. You slow down for a couple years and it's all changed big time! I still have all my old 510 and ego batteries, cartridges, and tons of old cartomizers. I can't believe how far the vaping world has come! And how fast! At least I'm back in the game, and everything is soooo much cheaper now! I remember those first 5mL tanks with the delrin end caps costed like forty or fifty bucks at COV. That guy started something big huh?

If your eGos are still working, use them with your single coil Kanger tanks; 1.5 and 1.8Ω should be just dandy for those 3.3v batteries.

 

[Katya]

And you may want to watch this:

 

[Katya]

One chart coming up (thanks Scaredmice ):

Hope you do not get dizzy or abducted by those maths....