Eleaf Istick
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Hey aldenf,
Thanks for the reply. I thought it vaped better with the thicker juice and there was no crackling, but now I understand what you mean. I want at least 50/pg so it will get to the coils faster. I just cranked it up in voltage mode on auto to see how hi it would go. It stopped at 5.5 volts and 16.8 watts. I set it down to do something else quick, then proceeded to pick it up and take a big pull at that setting! Wow. It was crazy, but at least I didn't ruin my coils! I lowered it back down for now to be safe..
It seems like there is some kind of protection built in to the chip to limit it based at what ohm you are reading? I guess I just need to keep reading and learning about the iStick and vw/v v mods in general. Oh, based on your response, I'm going to get higher ohm coils for the protank 2, EVOD, and T3s. Being a single coil it just seems like a good idea. I can always up the power anyway. I was using the T3/s on my Omega w/ 18650, but it's old and the pin is hardly making contact with the battery now.
Thanks for the welcome to the iStick family and I will be sure to check out your blog asap!
Thanks for the reply. I thought it vaped better with the thicker juice and there was no crackling, but now I understand what you mean. I want at least 50/pg so it will get to the coils faster. I just cranked it up in voltage mode on auto to see how hi it would go. It stopped at 5.5 volts and 16.8 watts. I set it down to do something else quick, then proceeded to pick it up and take a big pull at that setting! Wow. It was crazy, but at least I didn't ruin my coils! I lowered it back down for now to be safe..
It seems like there is some kind of protection built in to the chip to limit it based at what ohm you are reading? I guess I just need to keep reading and learning about the iStick and vw/v v mods in general. Oh, based on your response, I'm going to get higher ohm coils for the protank 2, EVOD, and T3s. Being a single coil it just seems like a good idea. I can always up the power anyway. I was using the T3/s on my Omega w/ 18650, but it's old and the pin is hardly making contact with the battery now.
Thanks for the welcome to the iStick family and I will be sure to check out your blog asap!
................^^^Thanks Katya and Bikenstein. I have not seen those charts yet or the video or the link. Going through almost 11K posts won't happen, and the search function hadn't been doing much good. Yeah, I'm definitely going to go with higher ohm coils now that I can up my power!
Thanks again, Pete.
Thanks again, Pete.
Help please...
Got my iStick 20W a few days ago and it's great! It's my first box mod, and first vw/v v device. If I'd seen the 30W's so cheap now... Oh well, it's great so far.
Welcome -- and thanks for the questions. I'm sure the answers you get will be useful to lots of vapers.
My question.. I haven't been able to find a posting anywhere online about recommended watts/ volts for certain ohm single/dual coils. I have seen that chart wayy earlier in this thread but I don't think that's what I'm looking for because I burnt my juice at 10w like the chart said I should do. (I think?) I also read to start low and work up to what works best which I did.
Starting low and working up is always a good idea!
Okay, I have have a Protank 3 with a 1.8 ohm coil on my Eleaf iStick.
I started low with watts and around 3.2v to start. I found 6.3 to 7.0 watts and 3.3 to 3.8 volts was giving a good warm vape with a 50/50 mix eliquid. Then I ran
out of that liquid and changed to a lighter liquid with probably around a 70/30 PG/VG mix. Now, no matter where I set the thing, the coils are always crackling for
most of the draw. The vape is good, but is this okay for the coils, or will they run out faster like this?
I think Katya answered this one well. Sometimes atty's will crack and pop. To me, this often gets better with use. As I believe higher VG is harder on coils, the higher PG should keep them from running out faster.
I also will be using a Kanger T3/s tank and an Evod tank on my iStick, both I believe use a single coil. Will this make a difference at 1.8 ohms? Do
you think I will need to drastically change my settings lower when I put these on? The reason I ask is I see people on youtube easily vaping at 10-12 watts with
no problem? Is it the voltage that makes the big difference? Is there a chart that anyone knows of with optimum settings for what tank or coils you are using?
I also have a protank II coming, but that should be similar to the protank 3. I believe they are both dual coiled.
My simple solution -- do what works best for you--meaning what levels you are comfortable with. As previously stated, it is quite useful to start low and work up. I know of no chart, but I do know that different toppers can handle different wattage or voltages ranges. One can only use the higher wattage/voltage levels when the coil is wicking very well, or one simply runs out of liquid on the coil. Air flow (a lot of even newer "toppers" have air flow valves) has something to do with it too and help create a comfortable vape with more plume.
I can't believe I'm like a newb again even though I've been vaping since 2009. You slow down for a couple years and it's all changed big time! I still have all my old 510 and ego batteries, cartridges, and tons of old cartomizers. I can't believe how far the vaping world has come! And how fast! At least I'm back in the game, and everything is soooo much cheaper now! I remember those first 5mL tanks with the delrin end caps costed like forty or fifty bucks at COV. That guy started something big huh?
For sure! Vaping gear has come a long way -- and more products come out quite regularly. Even Carto tanks improved. I have all that stuff too, enjoyed my carto tanks for years and still use them, because I can.
Thanks for the help, Pete.
Just a reminder and as others have said, the iStick 20 does run a bit hotter than other, perhaps more expensive regulated devices, but is still a quite fun and useful device.
Read Aldenf's blog on the iStick, too --- he knows his stuff!
The very best to you in this vaping adventure. Keep asking questions.
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A random thing happened with my 20W today- it started burning my coils (with a little smoke included when I opened the tank) I thought it might be the coil, so I tried a second one from a different package; first with the 30W, all is fine, and when I went back to the 20W, it burned again. This was at 8W, which has never given me any sort of issues.
This was my first ever istick, so it's seen some battle...and I think it's toast. RIP. As said above, I highly suggest getting a 30W at this point. There is just no good reason to get a 20 going forward.
This was my first ever istick, so it's seen some battle...and I think it's toast. RIP. As said above, I highly suggest getting a 30W at this point. There is just no good reason to get a 20 going forward.
Wanna have some fun, Peteg? Join us. BYO Ego battery and cartridge... blue foam, optional.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/general-vaping-discussion/470502-i-remember-back-day.html
Another review of the iStick 50W by Brian from The Vapor Chronicles - watch here
Just picked up my iStick 30w from a local B & M store today. Whilst I was happy with my 20w iStick I must admit the improvements are very good. The treading is nice and smooth and with the adjustable pin no more prying up the pin when it gets to squashed down.
Certainly notice the difference now they have sorted out the MEANS vs RMS thing, on the 20w I would run my Emow Mega with my own 1.4 vertical coil at about 12 watts and it was performing well. On the iStick 30w I have to bump it up to about 17 watts to get the same hit.
Very impressed. looking forward to picking up the 50w when available for the battery life more than anything.
Certainly notice the difference now they have sorted out the MEANS vs RMS thing, on the 20w I would run my Emow Mega with my own 1.4 vertical coil at about 12 watts and it was performing well. On the iStick 30w I have to bump it up to about 17 watts to get the same hit.
Very impressed. looking forward to picking up the 50w when available for the battery life more than anything.
Have they actually fixed the RMS/Mean issue with the 30W version? I am hearing different things. I like the way the iStick looks, but I am a super low voltage/wattage vaper. Sometimes I want to vape at under 4 volts. Is this possible with the 30W?
Yes it's totally a different output than the 20. We have both the 20 and 30. You can vape below 3 volts if you like
I just turned mine down to 2.4v and it still works but very weak.
Buy it, now before they all sell out
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thats very odd, how could the 20watt give out more more than it was engineered for for it to be able to burn out the coils, if its going to die its either weak batteries or board has been fried
The chart is somewhere--I'll try to find. But really all you need to know for now is that your iStick fires at about 1 full volt higher than your display indicates. So, 3.2v is really 4.2 volts. Untill you hit 5.5v or so--then it evens out. You may want to watch Phil Busardo's YouTube review of the iStick--he explains it very well.
I use the same coils--I like them at around 4.2-4.6( real volts), so you're fine. They are dual coil atties--they can take more wattage than the singles. If you like it warmer, proceed with caution. Pop and crackle sounds are OK--dry hits are not. If it starts to tase burnt, you've gone too high and your wicks can supply enough ejuice to the coils to keep it wet. Lower your voltage.
Oh, you may want to read this:
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...85-variable-voltage-wattage.html#post15135653
All ProTanks (1 and 2, big and small), eVods (not glass) and T3S(not glass) tanks are single coils. I don't know if you can vape them at the Stick, honestly. Kanger recommends 5-7.5 watts per single coil; a 1.8Ω single coil atty at 4.2v (the lowest wattage you battery is capable of) will generate 9.8 watts--way too hot for stock coils, IMO. I have no idea what people on YOuTube are doing--are they vaping rebuilt coils? If so, those can handle much more wattage than stock coils.
If your eGos are still working, use them with your single coil Kanger tanks; 1.5 and 1.8Ω should be just dandy for those 3.3v batteries.
I'm sorry to quote the entire post but you seem to know what I need to know and would really appreciate your opinion\advice.
With a iStick 30w is it okay to use Aspire BDC dual 1.8 coils? If so, what would be the best settings to start with? obviously start low and work my way up but with the dual coils how does it increase or impede the output?
If you can help me I would really appreciate it.. thank you
Because the 20w was tuned to MEAN using pulse with modulation which meant that the displayed volts was lower than the outputted volts. The 30w and 50w is tuned to RMS and uses a flat DC so the reading in the stick is correct.
Google Todds ecigg reviews and he has tested it on the scope.
Google Todds ecigg reviews and he has tested it on the scope.
Thanks, I'll be happy to see it on a scope for sure. When my Vamo gets accidentally set to mean, it burns everything for me, so I only want an RMS device.
Is anyone else sick of waiting for the istick 50? The 30 is nice but the battery at 4400 is the draw. I have endless mods and mechs but size and promise of a great mod has me interested.
If you don't want to wait for the iStick 50, and are primarily interested in something more the size of an iStick 30, but with more mah, the Heatvape Defender 25W with 2600mah (instead of the iStick 30's 2200mah) might be a good option. My 2200mah iStick 30 doesn't last me all day using a topper like the Mini Nautilus, so I need to get another device like it, preferably one that holds more of a charge. The Heatvape Defender 25W looks like it will fit the bill. I'll get one as soon as my income allows.
I was debating waiting on getting the eLeaf Melo sub ohm tank (as soon as it comes out), or the Atlantis sub ohm tank. Instead, it looks like I'll be getting a Kanger Subtank Mini - mainly because they are available now, have good reviews, a decent 3.5ml tank capacity (the Atlantis's 2ml capacity just isn't enough), an available (in stores) 1.2 ohm head option (0.5 ohms is probably a bit much for me), and the Subtank Mini comes with a good RBA deck - just in case I want to get back into rebuilding. That should be a good topper for my iStick 30, and a Heatvape Defender 25W - if I end up getting one as my 2nd mini box mod.
Anyone here dislike the Kanger Subtank Mini as a topper option for the iStick 30?
I was debating waiting on getting the eLeaf Melo sub ohm tank (as soon as it comes out), or the Atlantis sub ohm tank. Instead, it looks like I'll be getting a Kanger Subtank Mini - mainly because they are available now, have good reviews, a decent 3.5ml tank capacity (the Atlantis's 2ml capacity just isn't enough), an available (in stores) 1.2 ohm head option (0.5 ohms is probably a bit much for me), and the Subtank Mini comes with a good RBA deck - just in case I want to get back into rebuilding. That should be a good topper for my iStick 30, and a Heatvape Defender 25W - if I end up getting one as my 2nd mini box mod.
Anyone here dislike the Kanger Subtank Mini as a topper option for the iStick 30?
@dannydestroy I'm waitin on 2 that I bought in a co-op. Supposed to ship before the Chinese holiday. I sold all my mods already I'm usin a 30w right now, which last me more than a day on a charge most days.
I'm usin a 30w right now, which last me more than a day on a charge most days.- Status
