Eleaf Istick

[peraspera]

..Keep in mind that a number of people are replacing VV Spinners with the istick. For many this is an entry level device that also happens to satisfy advanced vapers.
...

I recall the highly contentious discussions surrounding the introduction of the original ZMAX that only offered a Vavg mode. There were basically all sorts of ugly power surprises resulting in burnt juice and popped coils. I don't consider a Vavg only device to be anything approaching a suitable choice for a beginning vaper as it isn't particularly beginner juice delivery device friendly.

That said, the iStick's size, long battery life and simplicity of operation is perfect for a beginner so I'm hoping for improvements to come in power delivery.

 

[oplholik]

Mine sounds as if it is shutting off immediately after releasing the button.

 

[Thayamax]

Mine sounds as if it is shutting off immediately after releasing the button.

Mine, too.

 

[MORTIS e]

Mine sounds as if it is shutting off immediately after releasing the button.

Good to know. Thanks oplholik and thayamax!

 

[Katya]

You have gotten way over my head when you are talking watts. I have been vaping for 3 weeks+ now and all I understand is the power chart, where you take the ohms of the coil and set the voltage about 2 above the ohms. Where does the "watts" come from and how do they affect the vapor?

Hi R1 and welcome. Voltage plus 2 is not a very accurate formula. Maybe this will help.

Disclaimer: This is the most simplistic explanation and is addressed to new vapers or vapers who are happy within the recommended "just right" power zone (4.5-7 watts) and use stock coils.

Ohm's Law as it pertains to vaping is really not that complicated--and it's very useful when you want to know what you're doing.

Voltage and wattage are often misunderstood by new vapers. Wattage is the power (heat, sweet spot) that your PV (battery and atomizer) generates. Wattage = Voltage (of your battery) squared divided by Resistance (Ω) of your atomizer [P=V[SUP]2[/SUP]/R]. If you're not good at math, don't worry, use this easy calculator:

Online Conversion - Ohm's Law Calculator

Of course, if you own a VW (variable wattage) device, you don't really need this calculator because your device will do the math for you.

The wattage you want, especially at the beginning of your vaping career, should be somewhere between 4.5 and 8.5 Watts. Anything lower than 4.5 watts may not vaporize your juice properly and will not produce enough warmth and vapor. Anything above 8.5 watts increases the risk of burning the filler in your cartomizers (if you're using them) or dry with your clearomizers.

There are, of course, other variables, like eliquid and JDD (juice delivery devices) that you're using on your batteries. Seven watts on a filler type cartomizer may feel different than the same 7 watts on a fillerless clearomizer or a dripping atomizer. The same is true for different eliquids; tobaccos, chocolate and coffees generally require more wattage (heat), while fruit and other delicate flavors do better with less heat. Everyone's sweet spot is different--those are just very general guidelines.

If you are using dual coil atomizers, things get a bit more confusing. Dual coil atties consist of two coils configured in parallel, which means that a 2.1Ω atty is really two 4.2Ω coils--so you have to calculate your wattage based on the 4.2Ω number--not 2.1Ω--roughly. Dual coil atties require more wattage than singles, but not quite twice as much. They produce more vapor due to increased surface. I usually increase the power (wattage) by 30-50% when using dual coils; for example, if I like 6 watts with a single coil atty, I start at 8-9 watts with a dual coil atty. That's just my preference--YMMV. When in doubt--start low and adjust up as needed.

If you are interested in high wattage (and/or sub-ohm)vaping, that's a different conversation altogether--and not my area of expertise.

Experiment and you'll find your own bliss in no time!

The chart below is a good guide to safe vaping, even though some think it's a bit conservative.

 

[scaredmice]

Mine sounds as if it is shutting off immediately after releasing the button.

Mine, too.

I guess that an unfiltered output makes easier to behave in that way.... Others cannot do that just because the filtering chain after the conversor has to drain off, and that's some time, short, but noticeable, going from full draw to zero. And high-end devices have extra bits to enforce the quick-draw-to-zero thing...

 

[zoiDman]

When I release the Power Button, the Hit Ends.

There is No Noticeable "Fade" of Power.

 

[DaveOno]

I have an old meter,... I just don't have an istick! dammit!

I wasn't able to get any results. I couldn't find the darn wire probs for it.

sigh

 

[scaredmice]

Well, I explained this on a Spanish forum. It's a fortunate coincidence, but it happens. When you expand the power formula to get the 'plus two' rule, for the normal resistances that we used, two terms become quasi-constant and the result is near 8 watt regardless the resistance, provided you've added "2" to that resistance value.... That justifies this rule.

If P = V²/R and V = (R + C) (we'll put C=2 later):

P = (R+C)²/R = 2C + C²/R + R

If R is between 1,5 to 2,5 ohm and C=2, C²/R + R roughly equals to 4, and 2C is, of course, four again, so, 8W.... I do not want to implode anybody's head...., so a quick look at some charts will explain it further.... Those curves are calculated by Ohm's and Coulomb's laws substituying "V" in those formulas with "R+2" and "R+3" (the "3" will be adressed later....):

An expansion over the X axis, to get grasp of irrealistic and non-used resistances, show us the reality, the cuadratic parabola behind, which happens to be near an absoute minimum at the sweet spot of 8 W between 1,5 and 3,0 ohm.... lucky us!

that thread was a response to a guy who always added "3" to its resistance, and I was trying to correct the obvious mmistake, hence the orange curve with "C=3"...... disregard them, the blue ones are the useable fact.

 

[scaredmice]

I wasn't able to get any results. I couldn't find the darn wire probs for it.

sigh

That's unfortunate....

I've got the darn wires and the meter, but I'm also waiting the iStick, which is expected Tuesday, not before.....

 

[DaveOno]

Beautiful artwork AG!
I enlarged it quite a bit more which reduces resolution somewhat, but it helps everyone see some detail.

By the way, I have a question about the Istick that I don't believe has been asked in this thread. For those that own it, does the power to the coil fade after releasing the fire button or does it stop immediately? In other words, do you hear the juice cooking for about 0.5 - 1 second after releasing the button?

I ask because the voltage to the coil on my Sigelei Legend seems to fade for approx. 0.75 second after releasing the button. I believe many mods do that but I also don't think many users notice it, or don't mind it if they do. I don't like that behavior at all and none of my other devices do it. I have a reservation for an Istick on a shipment in the next few days at my local B&M and I swore I'd never buy another regulated device that does that.

Beautiful work!!!

My Smok gbc shuts off instantly. But the iclear x.i sizzles for a little after I let off the button. To test it, I unscrewed the tank until it was just making a connection, and ended the vape by twisting the tank to break the connection. It's hard to tell, but I think it sizzles just as much. It does take a half second or so to start sizzling. I think just like an electric stove takes time to heat up and cool, so does the coil.

 

[Katya]

Appreciate your post.
My point was that we really just don't know much at this point.
For the most part we trust based on (as you said) educating ourselves or our past experiences.

We trust when a vendor states the juice is 18 mg--that he really hasn't diluted it down to increase his GM.
We trust that the incredients/components are quality and handled and/or tested properly.
And we trust that vaping is truly a safer alternative to smoking.
My education and "gut feeling" tell me that most manufacturers are in it for the long haul & strive to make quality products that are safe for their customers.
Oh and that vaping is safer.

In this world of unregulated, unstandardized vaping bliss we live in (for at least a while longer)---trust is all we have to go on. Other than if we pay for something and don't receive it (which would constitute theft) we have no other recourses at our disposal if a manufacturer errors (intentionally or not).
If there are NO rules, how can you break one? And how can a consumer claim you did?

I trust that when Aspire says their wicking material is a bioceramic material that it is just that; it's non-hazardous....and that it's not fiberglass, which is.
If you're "spider sense" is tingling about those BVC coils, trust it and consider something else.

And I appreciate yours.

To me, it's not so much a matter of trust but of being an active and involved consumer. Our constant collective whining (on this forum, several great blogs, and on YouTube) has lead, over the years, to many improvements in our vaping gear (and the quality of e-liquids). The more we discuss and dissect and analyze every new piece of equipment, the better it becomes. Manufacturers are reading these boards and they are paying close attention to YouTube reviews (PBusardo's, Green's, etc.) I know that for a fact. I have myself corresponded with several manufacturers and vendors and gotten many great responses from them--as have hundreds of my ECF brothers and sisters. Manufacturers need our feedback and they value it--and they often act upon it. You may not even be aware that some of the greatest inventions in vaping, like mods, carto tanks, clearomizers, RBAs, RDAs, you name it, have all been conceived by fellow vapers--our (and German, Russian, Greek, etc.) talented modders--not by Kanger or Joyetech.

This is a new and fast growing industry and we are all learning together and from each other. It's a good thing.

 

[emmsma]

I deleted the singles when I made the one pic guess I'll know better next time I thoughts it was big nuff

Wow, Lady! You are an artiste! Well done!

 

[Susaz]

I put up a longer post on the Is MVP obsolete thread, but yeah, what Salem, zoid and Rimp said. The mini beast is here!

It's got that little extra oomp I always found missing from the MVP with the smaller footprint.

 

[aikanae1]

I recall the highly contentious discussions surrounding the introduction of the original ZMAX that only offered a Vavg mode. There were basically all sorts of ugly power surprises resulting in burnt juice and popped coils. I don't consider a Vavg only device to be anything approaching a suitable choice for a beginning vaper as it isn't particularly beginner juice delivery device friendly.

That said, the iStick's size, long battery life and simplicity of operation is perfect for a beginner so I'm hoping for improvements to come in power delivery.

I think I'm glad I missed all that.
If iStick repeats that performance, I'm sure they'll hear about it because this is billed as a beginner device and not just for advanced users.

 

[R1Barlow]

Thank you very much Katya. So when my IStick arrives and I'm using Dual coils rated at 1.6 ohms, I should try 8 watts?

 

[zoiDman]

I think I'm glad I missed all that.
If iStick repeats that performance, I'm sure they'll hear about it because this is billed as a beginner device and not just for advanced users.

I'm not sure Who exactly is Billing the iStick as a Beginners Device?

I wonder if I still Qualify as a Beginner?

 

[Katya]

Thank you very much Katya. So when my IStick arrives and I'm using Dual coils rated at 1.6 ohms, I should try 8 watts?

It's always a good idea to start low and work your way up. I'd probably start at 6 watts (or 4.4v) and work my way up. Even though you're dealing with two 3.2Ω coils, you'll get more vapor than you would from a single 3.2Ω coil.

Again, I'm a low wattage person--YMMV.

 

[zoiDman]

BTW - Do you know that his Thread has be Viewed 69,204 Times.

Wow!

 

[Katya]

Well, I explained this on a Spanish forum. It's a fortunate coincidence, but it happens. When you expand the power formula to get the 'plus two' rule, for the normal resistances that we used, two terms become quasi-constant and the result is near 8 watt regardless the resistance, provided you've added "2" to that resistance value.... That justifies this rule.

Exactly right. This formula gets you (roughly) to 8 watts. But for people who prefer lower wattages, like 6-7.5W with a single coil, it's not much help. Not much help for those who prefer higher wattages, either, come to think of it.

It's so much easier to just plug in the numbers and get the exact reading you want. Just my opinion.

Online Conversion - Ohm's Law Calculator

BTW, I can't see your charts, but I have done the math before.