Eleaf Istick

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DEAc23

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This was the first device in months that I actually really wanted to buy (other than a Provari), but I decided to wait a month or two for some more in depth reviews to come out, and I'm glad I did. I prefer to vape my ADV at 5 watts on a 2.2-2.4Ω coil (yes I'm weird like that :lol:), so this device would be pretty much useless for me.

To be honest, given the recent info, I think this device is kind of a joke. It seems like it doesn't work at all like it's advertised, but of course everyone seems to love them so what do I know
shrug.gif
 

lumberjack

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Call me crazy, but I think it's regulating using Vave instead of Vrms, at least according to my ECD meter. (I don't have an oscilloscope.) Set to 3V it does output 3V average.

And I thought this problem was behind us. Remember the old overpowered Vmax/Zmax? Same deal.

I hope someone else will confirm that.
 

emmsma

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Been following both iStick threads ravenously. I'm kind of a newb in these parts. Been vaping for about a year - using EVOD batteries and tanks. Came back to read up, as I've been contemplating stepping up to something new. I'd pretty much settled on an MVP til I found these threads.

Waiting for payday is going to be rough. I want it NOW.

I have a new Aerotank Mega that I'm dying to try out on it.

Thanks for all the great info, guys.
 

zoiDman

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I made a new chart showing what combinations of oHms/watts the iStick is capable of regulating. eLeaf/Joye U.S. confirmed with the manufacturer that the iStick does not have the capability to down regulate power.

The blue bars show what is fully regulated. The purple shows oHms/watts combos that are only regulated when the power level you have selected falls below the volts the battery is actually outputting. If the settings you have chosen are too low to be regulated the iStick screen shows values calculated from oHms law based on your chosen settings rather than showing the actual power coming from the battery that is going to the coil.

For example, if you are using a 1.8 oHm coil the iStick will fully regulated your vape between 10 and 16 watts. However, if you want to vape your 1.8 oHm coil at 7 watts you can not do so until the battery output falls below 3.6 volts. In practice, this would mean you would start vaping at 10 watts with a freshly charged battery with the temperature of the vape going lower until the battery was actually outputting below 3.6 volts. The iStick would then regulate your vape at 7 watts until the battery needed to be recharged. The screen will reflect 7 watts/3.5 volts irrespective what volts are actually being output to the coil.

Using the iStick in voltage mode doesn't change the fact that the iStick is not capable of reducing the power coming from the battery. If the battery is freshly charged, producing around 4.2 volts, and you have set the voltage to 3.8 the iStick will be delivering 4.2 volts, not 3.8 volts, to your coil.

The iStick will not allow you to select a power setting that requires more volts than is allowed in its regulated range. It will stop at the highest setting that the chip can regulate.

You can download the spreadsheet I used for the underlying data if you wish to look at it or modify it for another device. Choose File > Download as from inside the Google spreadsheet itself rather than your browser's menu. The colors on the spreadsheet are done with conditional formatting that matches spec limitations.

The data I used is from doing oHms law calculations. The device may produce something a bit different in actual use. So far, I haven't seen any reviews for the iStick using reliable electronic testing equipment to check its accuracy.

iStick_regulated_range2_zps871bc069.jpeg

I Don't Know what the Actual Output Voltage is for the Freshly Charged iStick when I set it for 3.0V? Because I Don't have a Way to Test it.

But I do know that it is a Very Weak Hit on a 2.8ohm Clearo. And is Weaker Hit than when I set either one of my Provari's to 4.2V and take a Hit off the Same Clearo.
 

Wow1420

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I Don't Know what the Actual Output Voltage is for the Freshly Charged iStick when I set it for 3.0V? Because I Don't have a Way to Test it.

But I do know that it is a Very Weak Hit on a 2.8ohm Clearo. And is Weaker Hit than when I set either one of my Provari's to 4.2V and take a Hit off the Same Clearo.

Do you notice any PWM rattlesnaking at 3V / 2.8 ohms?

Between lumberjack's post and paraspera's chart, this is almost starting to make sense to me.
 

peraspera

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...Why oh why didn't they include voltage reduction???

I'm not at all clever about electronics but the people I know who are tell me there is always a struggle to balance power/features/size/efficiency/cost. When the 20 watt DNA was introduced I was whining pitifully to Drew (RIP) at nHaler about it not having a buck circuit. He mentioned that Brandon at Evolv told him they didn't include it because they would have to increase the size of the chip for an adequate heat sink.

I expect that we won't be seeing a 5–20 watt buck/boost device as tiny as the iStick for $35 dollars anytime soon. I'm not even sure it's practically doable at a much higher price. Even with its limitations I still consider the iStick to be an excellent value.

Call me crazy, but I think it's regulating using Vave instead of Vrms, at least according to my ECD meter. (I don't have an oscilloscope.) Set to 3V it does output 3V average.

And I thought this problem was behind us. Remember the old overpowered Vmax/Zmax? Same deal.

I hope someone else will confirm that.

Not happy news. I also thought this issue already had stake driven through its black heart. As I recall it wasn't so much a matter of average being consistently overpowered but that the ZMAX would deliver "surprise" bursts of power. I hope we don't see that type of thing with the iStick although no one has seemingly run into the issue rearing its head in an obviously ugly way so far.

I'm at the point where I would be willing to donate to money to help buy grownup testing gear for someone who knows how to play with it and would be willing to do reviews. We are being inundated with all sorts of interesting devices with hardly anyone but Phil Busardo doing in-depth technical analysis reviews.

I Don't Know what the Actual Output Voltage is for the Freshly Charged iStick when I set it for 3.0V? Because I Don't have a Way to Test it.

But I do know that it is a Very Weak Hit on a 2.8ohm Clearo. And is Weaker Hit than when I set either one of my Provari's to 4.2V and take a Hit off the Same Clearo.

At 3 volts the power should have been coming directly from the battery as that is out of regulated turf for the iStick. What you are describing sounds like there may be something amiss.

My Smok oHm/volt meter was reading 4.1 volts except immediately after charging when it bounced a bit between 4.2 and 4.1 volts. That said, it's not an expensive meter so I would I wouldn't bet the ranch on those readings being deadly accurate.

However, the vape on an HH.357 2.4Ω atty on my freshly charged iStick was the same compared to one of my SX350 mods with wattage set so it was outputting 4.1 volts.
 

zoiDman

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...

At 3 volts the power should have been coming directly from the battery as that is out of regulated turf for the iStick. What you are describing sounds like there may be something amiss.

My Smok oHm/volt meter was reading 4.1 volts except immediately after charging when it bounced a bit between 4.2 and 4.1 volts. That said, it's not an expensive meter so I would I wouldn't bet the ranch on those readings being deadly accurate.

However, the vape on an HH.357 2.4Ω atty on my freshly charged iStick was the same compared to one of my SX350 mods with wattage set so it was outputting 4.1 volts.

I Can't Speak for what Anyone else's iStick is Doing. And I Can't Quantify the Numbers because a DMM Alone Won't Do it.

But the Hit I am Getting when I set My Freshly charged iStick at 3.0V is Much Weaker than what I get at 4.2V on either My Provari. Or My MVP. Or my iTaste VV. Or My Vamo. Or my Lavatube.

Those are All I can Compare it to. Because those are the Only PV's I have measured with a DMM and Know that they are Outputting 4.2V
 
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