so what is the best ohms and setting for a cooler Vape on these, or is there NO cool Vape with the I stick?
ohms ?
volts?
watts?
I've been doing some field test with high-ohm settings on a Fogger v3 (BTW, my out and about atty now, on an iStick, and yes, the atty is bigger and awfully heavier....

) and also with a Trident RDA. I'm not used to higher than 2 ohm atty's, but as the regulating power of the iStick matters, it provides consistent vape from 5 to 10 W without any problems, just the same as a DNA30 clon, from 7 to 20 - 25 W, with resistance settings as high as 2,7 - 2,9 ohm....
But they are not my preferred one, because if I should engage the mechanical mod, those resistances would ruin my vaping experience.... For me, as personal matter and election, the iStick should be run at 1,2 - 1,8 ohm, to take full advantage of the 10 - 20 W capabilities with decent RBA's and RDA's. But with cartomizers and clearomizers the thing could be different, even if I'm running it also with mini Protanks 3 set at 1,5 - 2,0 ohm (mostly with my own rebuilds, not with supplied heads from Kanger).
I've also unsuccessfuly tried a low-ohm setting, on a Stillare Storm, a dual-coil build at 0,86 ohm....the iStick reports 'low resistance' or 'low atomizer', I can't recall it now. I do not know how near the reported '1,0 ohm lower limit' we can approach....
Man, I can't stand reddit. How does anyone follow anything at that convoluted site?
Anyway, it looks like several people want the charging port on the side. I love it on the bottom and would hate to see it moved to the side. Here's why;
1. When using it as a pass-through it's much better having it on the bottom cause it doesn't get in the way of your hand while holding it. I used my IPV2 this way in the car alot and it was great having the cord come out through the bottom.
.../...
I aggree with you. It's too small to leave it vertically without concerns, even worse with a heavy atty on top of it, and my experience of passthrough with a Hana clon is simply ruined by the lateral USB charging port. And if you, like me, usually change hands, it becomes worse. The USB charging port of the iStick is precisely where it has to be, both in terms of handling and being design-wise, where it is possible because of the internals.
My favorite was "just move the 510 connector". I suggest they go build one.
Oh and , "Make it bigger, so it fits my tank, no one will mind".
It's impossible to center the 510! Unless you made the box taller. But, after using a Fat Daddy Vapes' 510 as substitute of the original one in my Hana clon (the original one is a crappy beast, but it's a fully cloned mod, after all!), I'd would pay the five extra bucks for it on the iStick.
Or at least, bottom and top plates in actual stainless steel, so the 510 threads would become durable enough... I bet that in six months I'll put a Fat Daddy's 14 mm 510 conector, because it deserves it!
I'm wondering when the Chinese supplier of Fat Daddy will call eLeaf and other Chinese Box Mod manufacturers to put one in each... (or Varitube, another good one...).
Put it on a scope. And what was the purpose of putting the ego on the tester?
NO one. It's simpler. Some PR-related at Joyetech-USA asked for an answer to this issue, so the inexistent tech guys at Joyetech-USA (it is a marketing company, wholesellers and sales representative for eLeaf, not a nuclear lab!) had to call the most electronically experienced one, who turns out to be Will the intern..... and he made what he could.... with the in-house tools....
I did more or less the same, but I used what I sincerely think is a V
RMS capable voltmeter, because it's an analogue, which measures it with microcurrents over a squared framed coil..... I also put a digital voltmeter in parallel, one of the cheapest available today (but it is an original from 1995!), which surely it's not designed to measure DC squared waves and has no RMS capabilities, so far known....
So it's either the voltage displayed on the iStick is RMS'ed somehow, the Joyetech voltmeter is also RMS-capable, and both my voltmeters (the analogue because it has to be, the digital by chance) measure RMS'ed, or this is a gigantic joke which caught me in between.....
No harm intended, though!
Ok, i see what's happening with people talking about the fire button.
I just tried clicking on mine let's say last bit (bottorm right) of button, won't fire.
Basically, you have to be right on the middle of button, and it fires everytime.
You know, i wouldn't of even thought about this if i hadn't seen this thread.
(ignorance is bliss) sometimes....now i'll think about this crap in back of my mind.
lol.
But no issues when your pressing in middle. all is well.
That a common limitation of budget-wise PCB buttons, and their equally cheap actuators. The won't fire with a 1 ppm reliability (less than 1 fails per million intents), they are not Space Shuttle buttons!
But we are not going to retire our iStick after 50 flights, so this is a nice case in which maths do not add up..... Add it to the PWM-gate .....
