Eleaf Istick

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IMRs

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A USB device will only take the Amps that it needs. So you will be Fine.

I bought one of these a couple of weeks ago when on sale for $19.99. Works great.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GTGETFG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Thanks very much. I like both of those but I really have my eye on the IQ as I can really use that one with all of those ports. Now I have to get myself a micro usb cord right away so I can charge this in a couple of days. Very helpful! Thanks again. :toast:
 

froginblender

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Fixed issue with connection.

After trying another adapter (was worse) 510 to ego that is, I just tried untightening the bvc coil in my tank.
Issue resolved.
You cannot crank it tight , the BVC coil.
I just unscrewed it, then tightened until you feel 1st little bit of pressure, stop screwing it in.
That fixed it. Now i can screw the tank tighter, the adapter tighter with no firing issue:

Hope that helps anyone with issue with nautilus tanks or aspire tanks using bvc coil.

so with the Nautilus that problem isn't happening? ~~texting my daughter I want one of the tanks I gave her back~~ yup I'm an Indian giver *lol*

p.s
for someone else who wanted to see glassomizer on the istick, here's a photo of that. (aspire K1 glassomizer) with bvc coils.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/127571667@N07/15273965417/
 
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Flt Simulation

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Well, if you don't like that EGO / 510 connector on the Istick, I guess you can do what I did and purchase a 14mm 510 connector from Varitube and install it ... Mine is going on a MVP 2.
510 Connector - Self-adjusting Center Pin - 14mm, 22mm, 28.5mm

That is ... if your comfortable pulling apart your new Istick and modifying it.

Varitube510Connector22mm.jpg
 

froginblender

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Yeah someone here posted fixes for this problem. Its not the only mod to have this problem. The link that I read about the fix mentioned that it is only a temporary fix as it will be susceptible to depress again. Another fix is a circuit board spacer as well. But if anyone is like me, Id rather it just work, as my OCD would make this problem bother me to no end having to always fix it if it gets depressed again.

Well i did fix my issue, so now i'm in love with this ischtick again. lol.

posted image with quick tip to fix for anyone with Nautilus tanks/ and or
aspire tanks like my K1-Glassomizer with bvc coils.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/127571667@N07/15273932719/in/photostream/lightbox/
 

jafmf95

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zoiDman

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Well, if you don't like that EGO / 510 connector on the Istick, I guess you can do what I did and purchase a 14mm 510 connector from Varitube and install it ... Mine is going on a MVP 2.
510 Connector - Self-adjusting Center Pin - 14mm, 22mm, 28.5mm

That is ... if your comfortable pulling apart your new Istick and modifying it.

Varitube510Connector22mm.jpg

Before someone Rushes Out and buys one of these Bad Boys, they Might want to Pop the Top on their iStick and do some Measuring to make sure it fits.

This Picture is Kinda Deceiving...

iStick_1.JPG


Because when the iStick in Assembled, there is NO GAP between the Negative End of the Battery/Insulator Disk and the Top Cover of the iStick.
 

Peter_C

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So, it sounds like a group of folks are getting connection issues.

I'd read about folks bumping buttons so that their settings would go to one end or the other. I was out yesterday (still on first charge), and somehow while in my pocket, mine went for it's usual setting of 3.2v all the way up to the top so I got a hit of really burnt vape. Have no idea how it happened either, but I can attest that it does happen.

Pity there is no way to lock the settings-and I know, buy a better device! Actually, I would spend $80 bucks to get this same device with all the upgrades we want.
 

MORTIS e

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So, it sounds like a group of folks are getting connection issues.

I'd read about folks bumping buttons so that their settings would go to one end or the other. I was out yesterday (still on first charge), and somehow while in my pocket, mine went for it's usual setting of 3.2v all the way up to the top so I got a hit of really burnt vape. Have no idea how it happened either, but I can attest that it does happen.

Pity there is no way to lock the settings-and I know, buy a better device! Actually, I would spend $80 bucks to get this same device with all the upgrades we want.

Perhaps next time, just shut it off before putting in your pocket.
 

zoiDman

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mine that I ordered from Indy vapor is on its way.....should be here tomorrow I imagine.....sure hope I can use my Evods and Protank mini's on it....that is basically all I use.

I think you will be Fine.

You have to Remember that when you Read in a thread about a Handful of People who have a Problem with a Connector (or Anything Else) that there is an Army of People who are Not having the same Issue.

The Problem is there is Only One real iStick Thread on the ECF.

If you Condensed every thread on the ECF for a Specific Mod into 1 Thread, you would See All Sorts of Problems.
 

Peter_C

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If (like me) you have many devices that charge via USB, I would highly suggest getting one of these:

Amazon.com: Anker® 40W 5-Port Family-Sized Desktop USB Charger with PowerIQTM Technology for iPhone 6 5s 5c 5; iPad Air mini; Galaxy S5 S4; Note 3 2; the new HTC One (M8); Nexus and More (Black): Electronics - this can charge five different items at the same time, will only give the amps the device wants/needs, 18 month real warranty - real people answer the phone (I am an Anker fanboy). You can get it in either black or white.
 

JD4x4

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Post 1 of 4:

OK, for anyone looking for more scope pics (zoidMan) than I already posted earlier, here are the screen caps from my TPI Scope Plus 440 software (found it). The software doesn't have a cursor mode and readout so I still don't know if it's a Vavg or Vrms reading (and really don't care after you see my conclusions).

Regardless of whether it bucks, boosts, buck-boosts, it vapes well for me and it most certainly does reduce power below battery volts.
Do the math. 4.2 volts through 2.1 ohms = 2.0 amps, 8.4 watts. At 4.0 volts it's 1.9 amps and 7.62 watts.
In the readings below 2 were from an iStick fresh off of overnight charge. Now do the math with these figures. Also my Radio Shack 22-168 DMM on the same setup read 3.1 volts and 1.46 amps. Any figure you use indicates a reduction of "power" with a fully charged battery.

My interesting conclusion is this- after you look just at the iStick numbers and have a look at the other device numbers, which ones match up to what most of us use as daily vaping measurements.. (Meaning volts based on your experience and/or coil ohms, or watts based on your vape preferences. Then when you want to compare things, some of us do calculations based on ohm's and watt's laws, or ask other vapers right?) Well, none of the devices I measured are really that close to the results you get using ohms/watts laws. Even using the scope or the DMM numbers.

No repeatability a problem? No "standard"?? Who cares. How does it compare to YOUR other stuff, and YOUR measuring device ... and how does it vape for YOU??

This thread is way too fast & furious to keep up with so I'm just going to leave everyone with the pics, my conclusions, and reiterate that (imo) the iStick most certainly does reduce "power" below battery volts. Enough for YOU? Can't answer that!



I can only post 5 attachments in one post, so since each device I measured has a volt and an amp pic, I'm doing them in sets of 4 and hopefully I'll get all the pics in successive posts.

Vape on, Vape happy!
qW6BQWXZ2WR YCQAc2l1dOKlxQgAAAABJRU5ErkJggg==
 

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