Eleaf Istick

[aldenf]

See here's the Thing.

Just like at the Beginning of this Thread, people started Saying that the istick was Hitting harder than a Number on a Screen says it should. Or compared to another device like an MVP. When I Take a Clearo off my istick that is hitting fine, and then put it on MVP @ 9W, it taste Burnt.

Not saying the Math Isn't right. Just not what I'm seeing.

That's what has bugged me with this thread from the beginning, zoiDman. I only know how my iStick is working with my atomizers and how it's reading on my meter. A sample of one out of thousands does not make for solid assumptions. Since I haven't tried your iStick, or anyone else's for that matter, I can only go by what I have in my hand.

I'm beginning to wonder if quality control has been a real issue for Eleaf in the early runs; or if multiple versions (firmware) have left their manufacturing facility. It appears that AT LEAST two version have escaped from Eleaf. As I can not get a firmware version to display on mine like Tia was able to do on hers.

Are we individually experiencing different iSticks and comparing apples to oranges? That might explain the very different experiences we're having. Are we guinea pig first-adopters?

 

[aldenf]

May you wonder how many facilities are making them,

Good point, Steeldragon. Are different versions/firmware coming from multiple manufacturing facilities?

 

[zoiDman]

If I'm Reading this Chart Correctly, and if the Math/Data is Good to Go, look at how the Displayed Power varies from the "Real" Power for a 2.8 Ohm Atty.

Now do the Comparison for a 1.8 Ohm Atty.

 

[aldenf]

BTW - It's Interesting to compare Watts Made from Constant Voltage to Watts made from this Equation => (Vpk²/R) * Duty Cycle when R is Bounded from 1 to say 4.0 Ohm.

I was bored in rehearsal today and did just that. I have a jotted chart comparing the two at different volts & resistances.

 

[zoiDman]

...

Are we individually experiencing different iSticks and comparing apples to oranges? That might explain the very different experiences we're having. Are we guinea pig first-adopters?

No. I Don't Think so.

Just People Using Different Ohms seeing Different Results.

Question: Who should see the Most Error of Displayed Power to "Real" Power. Someone using 1.8 Ohms or Someone using 2.8 Ohms?

---

This Formula is Nice because it ONLY has One Variable. R

(Vpk²/R) * Duty Cycle

 

[PaulBHC]

Makes one wonder if the ebay versions are different than eleafus, b&m, or Euro versions.

 

[aldenf]

If I'm Reading this Chart Correctly, and if the Math/Data is Good to Go, look at how the Displayed Power varies from the "Real" Power for a 2.8 Ohm Atty.

Now do the Comparison for a 1.8 Ohm Atty.

Exactly... A 1.8Ω atty should run from 5 to 16.8 Watts on the iStick, which is what's displayed. If it is firing in average volts, however, that same 1.8Ω atty is actually running 9.7 to 17.7 Watts.

 

[aldenf]

No. I Don't Think so.

Just People Using Different Ohms seeing Different Results.

Question: Who should see the Most Error of Displayed Power to "Real" Power. Someone using 1.8 Ohms or Someone using 2.8 Ohms?

---

This Formula is Nice because it ONLY has One Variable. R

(Vpk²/R) * Duty Cycle

The lower the resistance, the bigger the difference.

 

[aldenf]

Makes one wonder if the ebay versions are different than eleafus, b&m, or Euro versions.

Hmmm... Good question, Paul. If a bit unsettling.

On a positive note, the rayon in all my attys is keeping up with what my iStick can dish out!

 

[Steeldragon]

It seems like most of the problems arise with the low volt/wattage vapors so there seems to be a bigger margin of error in the lower bands

 

[zoiDman]

The lower the resistance, the bigger the difference.

And how many peole did you Hear in this thread that wanted to run 1.8 Ohm Something (Can't Remember what) because they said that 1.8 ohms is the Highest Ohms that ________ Made?

See, I'm not Running 1.8 Ohms Clearo. I'm Running 2.8 ~ 3.0 Ohm Clearos.

So maybe my iStick is doing EXACTLY what your iStick is Doing? I'm just Getting a Lot Less "Relative" Error than you are.

 

[zoiDman]

It seems like most of the problems arise with the low volt/wattage vapors so there seems to be a bigger margin of error in the lower bands

Ding Ding Ding

I think we have a Winner.



That's where ALL the Difference is between Constant and Vavg and Vrms. The Farther you get from Vpk.

But is the Difference the same for Everyone?

 

[aldenf]

Ding Ding Ding

I think we have a Winner.



That's where ALL the Difference is between Constant and Vavg and Vrms. The Farther you get from Vpk.

But is the Difference the same for Everyone?

That's the unknown answer...

The lower the resistance and the lower the voltage (further from Vpk) the bigger the difference twixt displayed power (based on Ohm's Law) and real power.

 

[Steeldragon]

I know I vape on a Kanger 1.8 resistance coil at 6 watts with no problems showing 3.4 volts

 

[KODIAK (TM)]

The lower the resistance, the bigger the difference.

Exactly. Which is why a LR coil that I normally use on three known RMS devices at 3.3 volts vapes noticeably cooler than *my* iSchtick. But of course if PBusardo says I'm wrong then iSticks everywhere will magically vape just fine at low power. Go figure.

And how many peole did you Hear in this thread that wanted to run 1.8 Ohm Something (Can't Remember what) because they said that 1.8 ohms is the Highest Ohms that ________ Made?

Me for one. Aspire only makes 1.6 and 1.8 BVC's for their Nautilus tanks. And these are very popular tanks so I can't be the only one that would like to see a higher resistance. Now, I'm mainly using a Kayfun at 2.7 ohms.

 

[zoiDman]

I know I vape on a Kanger 1.8 resistance coil at 6 watts with no problems showing 3.4 volts

I think Brings up another HUGE Issue.

Watts are Not the Deciding or Single Factor that predetermines if a Hit is Only going to taste Burnt.

Wicking, Airflow and Type of e-Liquid (Viscosity, PG:VG Ratio, Flavoring/Sweeteners) Play as much, Sometimes More of a Role, of whether or Not a Hit Taste Burnt.

 

[Steeldragon]

Doing research on Alababi.com. I am showing the Istick being manufactured by, Ismoka with 1 factory and eleaf with 2 facilities so that be the answer to some of these questions. So who has the Ismoka versions and the eleaf versions

 

[zoiDman]

I know I vape on a Kanger 1.8 resistance coil at 6 watts with no problems showing 3.4 volts

BTW - I said it Before. But I'll say it Again.

You can Vape at ANY Watts and Not get a Burnt Taste if the Wick can Wick Fast Enough. And there is Enough Airflow.

 

[spaceballsrules]

I have spent a few days vaping on my iStick, and no matter what, I still get the intermittent burnt hits. I keep it set as low as I can, and I have tried both voltage and wattage. It's not a wicking issue, as my juices are all 65/35 or 70/30 (pg/vg). It's not a resistance problem either, as I have tried coils that range between 2.0 to 2.9 ohms.

I have never had this problem my Twists, which are set at 3.6V no matter what the coil resistance is, and they hit perfectly every single time. My MVP is set slightly lower at 3.4V, as it does hit harder, but it still doesn't burn my juice outright. Setting the iStick to 3.4V or 3.6V is guaranteed burnt flavor.

It really feels like my iStick is faulty, and that the regulator is damaged. The burnt hits I am talking about aren't just a little burnt either. It literally tastes like the iStick is firing at the full 5.5V or 20W. It's awful!

 

[zoiDman]

Doing research on Alababi.com. I am showing the Istick being manufactured by, Ismoka with 1 factory and eleaf with 2 facilities so that be the answer to some of these questions. So who has the Ismoka versions and the eleaf versions

Do you know for Sure that iSticks are made in Different Factories?