Eleaf Istick

[DaveOno]

Sorry if this is already posted. I subscribe to his channel and trust his experience. He has been using adaptors so this is very significant to me. The savings on the eleaf does not equal the loss of my tanks. Thank goodness I saw this before buying the two I was going to. I sure hope they fix this cause I'll still be interested then.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gwO_RGewlfY

I really wish he was more specific in the video. Does his tanks work on his MVP? Is it the wear of the female threads in the iStick? Do those tanks that he was twisting directly on the istick grab the threads of the adaptor? Either the eleaf adapter or any other?

I took my good 12x graphics loupe and looked close at all the 510 threads I have. My other ego bat and the eleaf adapter have sharp threads coming to a point. The threads in the iStick are not sharp, but somewhat rounded. I was going to post pics, but the size is big, so feel free to check them on my Dropbox folder The eleaf adapter has the beauty ring (1 pic) and the iStick are the others. (Yes, I have a Jwrap piece on the top of the istick)

Also, some tanks have their threads stopping before the bottom of the material. These are worse, as only a few threads are engaged. For instance, the eleaf adapter unscrews 2 and a half revs till it is released. My Nautilus goes 3.5 revs due to the lower threads.

So I will visit the guys at my FLVS and find a deeply threaded adapter that lets me engage more threads.
(Friendly Local Vape Shop)

Although my threads are still working fine, I want to get a better adapter, cause the threads aren't going to get better in my istick...lol

 

[op22222]

I Wonder out of All the iStick's that have been sold, how many people are having Problems with the 510 Threading?

Most people Don't Post when there are Problems. But Everyone Posts when there is a Problem.

Plus the fact that many Vapers out there I know, don't even subscribe to vaping forums..... for example, I started with cigalikes in
'09/'10 and didn't join this forum untill last year.
Eleaf should make a revised replacement cap to address the issue, but I'm not going to hold my breath on that one.

 

[gerrymi]

Just remember, the MVP V1 wasn't that great, either. The MVP didn't earn it's reputation that it's renowned for until the bump to version 1.5.

And...even the MVP2 continues to have the "connection pin" problem some are whining about in this thread.

So...get over it...just pry the iStick pin UP or the clearo pin DOWN...and go back to vaping...

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/blogs/capt-shay/6338-fixing-mvp-vv3-contact-issues-guide.html

 

[Spazmelda]

I tried prying the istick pin up, didn't do a darn thing. My tanks still work fine on my provari. I even pulled out an old protank and tried it on the istick and it had the same problem. It would fire if it was loose, but not if it was snug. The Kayfun would work if it was loose, but it was easily bumped out of 'perfect' position and wouldn't fire, then it quit working on the istick completely, no matter how it was screwed in. I tried putting a small oring on the Kayfun, at the base of the threads. That sort of helped, sometimes... but the o-ring only lasted 2 fills, then it broke from unscrewing the tank.

 

[op22222]

I tried prying the istick pin up, didn't do a darn thing. My tanks still work fine on my provari. I even pulled out an old protank and tried it on the istick and it had the same problem. It would fire if it was loose, but not if it was snug. The Kayfun would work if it was loose, but it was easily bumped out of 'perfect' position and wouldn't fire, then it quit working on the istick completely, no matter how it was screwed in. I tried putting a small oring on the Kayfun, at the base of the threads. That sort of helped, sometimes... but the o-ring only lasted 2 fills, then it broke from unscrewing the tank.

I would try to get a refund/replacement istick.

 

[four2109]

That video is 5 minutes I will never get back.

 

[four2109]

I haven't had any problem with my threads. You can tell when you start threading that you have to be careful. On some of my tanks, the center pin protrudes almost a mm so they don't screw in as far as some atomizers.
I don't understand what's happening with the users that have to leave the tank loose to get a connection. Is the center pin too large and causing a short?

 

[op22222]

Could also be a cold solder joint or broken wire.//????///

 

[DaveOno]

I had my istick for about a week and started to get the low atomizer message. Loosened the Kayfun, and it worked. Kept having to loosen it and fiddle with it, now it won't read it at all. Crappy 510 connection. I'm going to send it back. It's a shame, because otherwise it's great.

With a "Low atomizer" warning, I'll bet the center pin insulating grommet is no good. When a tank is screwed on tight, it compresses this grommet, and you are geting a voltage leak. Not enough to declare a short, but enough to lower the ohm reading. You say you sent it back. I wonder what that grommet looks like in yours. Looking from the top in mine, I can see the beige insulator grommet peeking out from the base of the center pin. Not much, maybe the width of a piece of kanthal, but it is even and concentric with the pin.

If it was mine, I try to take the top off, unsolder the leads, and try to retrofit the grommet and center pin so it was a tad higher, yet "squishier" to allow a tank to thread in as deep as possible.

BTW - The 510 Thread was a Very Poor Design from Day One.

Anytime the Length of Thread is Less than the Major Diameter of the Thread there can be Problems.

Word.

 

[four2109]

With a "Low atomizer" warning, I'll bet the center pin insulating grommet is no good. When a tank is screwed on tight, it compresses this grommet, and you are geting a voltage leak. Not enough to declare a short, but enough to lower the ohm reading. You say you sent it back. I wonder what that grommet looks like in yours. Looking from the top in mine, I can see the beige insulator grommet peeking out from the base of the center pin. Not much, maybe the width of a piece of kanthal, but it is even and concentric with the pin.

If it was mine, I try to take the top off, unsolder the leads, and try to retrofit the grommet and center pin so it was a tad higher, yet "squishier" to allow a tank to thread in as deep as possible.

You're probably right, but I wouldn't. It's brand new, send it back. I can see replacing the connector if it fails after some use.
I'm glad mine is OK because I wouldn't want to have to try to return to the ebay "outlet" that I bought from.

 

[four2109]

Start a poll. I'll sign it lol

I'd start one but I don't remember how.

 

[r77r7r]

I really wish he was more specific in the video. Does his tanks work on his MVP? Is it the wear of the female threads in the iStick? Do those tanks that he was twisting directly on the istick grab the threads of the adaptor? Either the eleaf adapter or any other?

I took my good 12x graphics loupe and looked close at all the 510 threads I have. My other ego bat and the eleaf adapter have sharp threads coming to a point. The threads in the iStick are not sharp, but somewhat rounded. I was going to post pics, but the size is big, so feel free to check them on my Dropbox folder The eleaf adapter has the beauty ring (1 pic) and the iStick are the others. (Yes, I have a Jwrap piece on the top of the istick)

Also, some tanks have their threads stopping before the bottom of the material. These are worse, as only a few threads are engaged. For instance, the eleaf adapter unscrews 2 and a half revs till it is released. My Nautilus goes 3.5 revs due to the lower threads.

So I will visit the guys at my FLVS and find a deeply threaded adapter that lets me engage more threads.
(Friendly Local Vape Shop)

Although my threads are still working fine, I want to get a better adapter, cause the threads aren't going to get better in my istick...lol

NM, got it now...........

(PS-I like those sunsets also)

 

[DaveOno]

The sunsets were yesterday, (Wed, Oct 29). Beautiful Hudson Valley, NY.

And I got my istick off ebay, there's no going back, and I'm confident enough to bust one open, if needed.

 

[Katya]

You're probably right, but I wouldn't. It's brand new, send it back.

Not only that--if we don't let the manufacturers know that there are problems with their products, if we don't send defective stuff back, complain and demand improvements, we won't see any.

Almost every first version of every mod ever released had problems--they were fixed in subsequent revisions because we complained. First Vamos, first Sigeli Zmax, first MVP--the list goes on and on. I don't know if Chinese manufacturers really beta test their products--I suspect that we are the beta testers. But we don't get those products for free to test--we have to buy them. Big cost savings to them.

 

[SthrnCelt]

I noticed a little, ahem, perhaps slightly improperly machined threads on one of the two iSticks I just received. I decided then I would put the adapter on that with a stock beauty ring that comes with the Nautilus. That way I'm screwing the tank onto the adapter instead of the device. It seems to have very solid threads. After several times removing/replacing the tanks all seems good. This seems much ado about nothing. Thanks Shakespeare!

 

[Katya]

And...even the MVP2 continues to have the "connection pin" problem some are whining about in this thread.

So...get over it...just pry the iStick pin UP or the clearo pin DOWN...and go back to vaping...

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/blogs/capt-shay/6338-fixing-mvp-vv3-contact-issues-guide.html

True, but in all fairness, connectivity issues plague all 510 threaded devices, including the ProVari. With more and more toppers being manufactured by different manufacturers, connectivity issues can only be solved by adjustable (spring loaded) center pin.

Soft and stripping 510 threads is a different problem than simple connectivity. I remember that early Sigelei Zmaxes had the same problem--which was addressed in subsequent versions. I have a V3 and the 510 connection is flawless.

 

[r77r7r]

This is when my combo of unflavored, Boge, and sidefill carto-tank shines. I screw them on and they stay for 3-6 weeks. I only see my battery post 11 times a year, lol.

Hey, I thought I saw that there was a technique for refilling those Naughty tanks upside down while still screwed on the batt?? That might save the threads some.

 

[irwink]

I view all claims of damaged device threading due to said device being defective with extreme skepticism. I own several devices against which these claims have been widespread and have had no threading/contact issues with any of them. While it is definitely true that some metals/threading are more durable than others my experience over many years with people and such mechanical connections tells me that the majority of such problems are due to human error much to the contrary of the usual protestations.

 

[Jayscuzzi]

I view all claims of damaged device threading due to said device being defective with extreme skepticism. I own several devices against which these claims have been widespread and have had no threading/contact issues with any of them. While it is definitely true that some metals/threading are more durable than others my experience over many years with people and such mechanical connections tells me that the majority of such problems are due to human error much to the contrary of the usual protestations.

Well you would be wrong than. Mine has been bad since day one but I didn't return it because the people from ebay I got it from had terrible service getting it here. I wasn't about to return it and wait over another 2 to 3 weeks for a replacement. I put on the adaptor and I live with it. I'm sure everyone else you are are accusing of not knowing how to screw on a tank properly are taking offence to your statement as well.

 

[Spazmelda]

With a "Low atomizer" warning, I'll bet the center pin insulating grommet is no good. When a tank is screwed on tight, it compresses this grommet, and you are geting a voltage leak. Not enough to declare a short, but enough to lower the ohm reading. You say you sent it back. I wonder what that grommet looks like in yours. Looking from the top in mine, I can see the beige insulator grommet peeking out from the base of the center pin. Not much, maybe the width of a piece of kanthal, but it is even and concentric with the pin.

If it was mine, I try to take the top off, unsolder the leads, and try to retrofit the grommet and center pin so it was a tad higher, yet "squishier" to allow a tank to thread in as deep as possible.



Word.

I looked at the grommet, because I had that happen with an ohm reader. It seemed fine. I did send it back. Well, it's in the mailbox waiting to be picked up tomorrow. They said they'd exchange it or offer credit if it was out of stock. Last I looked they were out of stock, so now I have to find something at Vapor Tek to buy. In the email they seemed fine about the return though, so I'm hoping it goes through okay.