Eleaf Istick

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op22222

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I was gonna see how people were getting along with the isticks but apparently the thread has been hijacked.

Yes, the coil life we're talking about does seem off content....but it is part of this previous post below.

So far I'm on day 25 with the same 1.8 ohm BVC mini naughty coil .......Wow!.....I did have to up it 4 eleaf volts though to keep the same vapor production. Also, day 36 and I'm still getting nearly 2 full days on the 'sticks' battery life......Ain't life Grand!?
 

four2109

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Ok, Halloween night, I was standing on my front porch, happily vaping with my Nautilus mini + iStick and watching the steady stream of the little ones picking out their favorite candy from the bowl I put out. Then this cute little crab (that was her costume) walked up and said, "thank you for the KitKat mister. I like that .... you are smoking from, it's so shiny!"

A "...."?!!!! :blink:

Wait, fill in the blanks!
 

friediceman

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Ok, Halloween night, I was standing on my front porch, happily vaping with my Nautilus mini + iStick and watching the steady stream of the little ones picking out their favorite candy from the bowl I put out. Then this cute little crab (that was her costume) walked up and said, "thank you for the KitKat mister. I like that .... you are smoking from, it's so shiny!"

A "...."?!!!! :blink:

Ahhhhhhh, censored words/phrases!!!
 

Katdarling

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Brava.


"There is one exception. Battery experts suggest that after 30 charges, you should allow lithium-ion batteries to almost completely discharge. Continuous partial discharges create a condition called digital memory, decreasing the accuracy of the device's power gauge. So let the battery discharge to the cut-off point and then recharge. The power gauge will be recalibrated."

This is why I said it is only crucial to fully discharge the battery for the first 4-5 charges in my original post! It develops the battery to know it's full extent from the get go, for those times when you do go all the way to cutoff. Only other thing I would change is the number 30 to 10. Then that information would be solid gold!

This is my last post about the battery life issues, since clearly talking about battery life on a battery thread is borderline hijacking! :blink:

Hope everyone had a spooky Halloween! :party:


Actually, Ryan, and I hope I'm not alone in saying this, I would love for you to continue to post about your experience with batteries. As Katya said, many of us were "taught" as young vapers about li-ions having no memory, so this is news to me as well. INTERESTING news, and I would very much like to hear and learn more.

In fact, I have some preliminary questions. Is it too late to follow your protocols if one has already recharged the 'Stick when it was 1/2 to 1/4 full? Are there any repercussions (to the life of the battery) if one continued to fully discharge/recharge after the initial 4-5 charges? (would that hinder? help?)



iowajosh, in what way did you see this thread as hijacked? It seems to me, from the very beginning, it's been all about how people are getting on with their 'Sticks. Did you have a specific question?
 

Ryan Lee

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Brava.





Actually, Ryan, and I hope I'm not alone in saying this, I would love for you to continue to post about your experience with batteries. As Katya said, many of us were "taught" as young vapers about li-ions having no memory, so this is news to me as well. INTERESTING news, and I would very much like to hear and learn more.

In fact, I have some preliminary questions. Is it too late to follow your protocols if one has already recharged the 'Stick when it was 1/2 to 1/4 full? Are there any repercussions (to the life of the battery) if one continued to fully discharge/recharge after the initial 4-5 charges? (would that hinder? help?)

Oh gosh, I don't wanna stir up any trouble so I will try to make this short and sweet.
First MAJOR problem is the factory shipping these at a full charge. Any and every lipo battery has a "storage charge", basically if you don't plan to use it for awhile, than it should be stored around 3.8 volts. A full charge storage can cause weakening of the internal cells, and less than half is where you run into the minor possibility of losing enough charge to where it gets overly discharged, rendering it trash can material. So, that is a major problem from the factory themselves.

Now, I would like to point out that the first 3-5 charges are the most crucial for the life of your battery. These initial charges kind of "program" the battery, I call it a break in period. Like with any electronic device, most all require a proper break in. I also like to start at lower voltages when it is brand new, and gradually work up. Kind of like when I put a brand new head in my Nauti, or slap a new coil on my dripper, I start low, and work up.

Now I am slightly ocd / perfectionist, so bare with me! I myself, like to always fully discharge between every cycle. Is it gonna kill you to charge on a half dead battery....no way. But, if you are as frugal as I am in making things last, than this is the approach you want to take. But, if that is to much for you, I would say at least every 5-10 charges, run it all the way down. I also like to have the device turned off during my charges. Taking the atty off during charges is mostly my ocd coming into play, but I don't deem this necessary!

So to sum up. Anytime you can fully discharge between each cycle is good. Try to do it as often as possible. Doing so you will surely get at least 400-500 long lasting cycles in the device. But as stated, the initial charges in a brand new cell is what really sets the tone! Now, does this mean that since you didn't fully discharge your new iStick a few times when you got it that it is gonna be worthless? Not the slightest, BUT! In time, you may start to see a descend in how long each charge lasts, as well as a shortened life span. With all of that said, heat is a batteries worst enemy. So, as long as she isn't ever getting say above 100 degrees F, than really you are doing a good job.

I gotta stop now, this is turning into a damn novel. Hope this helps someone for what it's worth.
Much love to all of you and this amazing forum that helps us all learn from honest individuals with real life experience.

Oh ya, did I mention how sexy the blue iStick is? :D
iY2aQIj.jpg

ig40L84.jpg
 

Big Screen D

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Regarding the thread issue.

Pretty sure the top piece and 510 connection is aluminum. So aside from the likelihood that some Isticks simply have a poor thread cut, because the metal is relatively soft, it can also be easily damaged. Cross threading and over tightening as we all know is one way to ruin the threads. What is often overlooked IMO is the dreaded topper wobble. If a topper does not fit flush, the topper is able to move back and forth and will quickly ruin the threads.

So far both of mine are still perfect. The threading is smooth and tight still. I've been using a Nautilus mini, Nautilus, and Aspire K1's which require the eGo adapter. All when snugged sit flush with zero wobble, and I'm careful when changing tanks.

Would be nice if Eleaf decided to use SS for the end caps. Though it would add a bit of weight and cost, there would be a lot less issues with threading down the road.

My wife uses a eGo batteries. Not so much now that she has her Istick, but I have a bunch of Vision Spinners that are perfectly good still other than they are unusable because she has completely stripped out the threads.
 

r77r7r

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    Mine has the dreaded wobble, but I fear snugging it up tightly, which would help that, because then I'll have a squashed post And the wobble.
    Threads seem better in the ego adapter which I'll probably have to put on. Wonder if in the future we'll have to recommend putting it on straight aways when new?
    Gonna try some Teflon tape...........
     

    r77r7r

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    I bought extra o-rings for drip tips. But putting one on a topper that doesn't screw down completely really helps stabilize it. Obviously not a solution if the topper gets airflow via the 510 :)

    Sent from my Kindle Fire HDX using Xparent Purple Tapatalk 2

    Good solution. Being a carto user, I only have 1 mm b4 airhole. Maybe a rubber washer.....
     

    four2109

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    Bigbob2322

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    Has anyone had had a Istick burning juices at the lowest settings. Mine worked great for 1 week then started burning juices at the lowest setting in volts(3 volts). I am using a Nautilus mini and full size with bvc coils and a 16B clearomizer. All 3 tanks work fine on other devices. When I first got it I was using it at 3.3 volts or 11 watts. Now at the lowest it will go (3 volts) everything taste BURNT!
     

    billherbst

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    The top half of the threads on my iStick's female 510 connector have stripped somewhat and become loose. Thankfully, the bottom half of the threading is still intact and provides a solid connection. I saw the handwriting on the wall, however, so I now use a 510-to-eGo adapter (my iStick didn't come with the spiffy knurled one, but I have many of the more ordinary-style 510-to-eGo adapters in my parts stash), which I leave on the iStick permanently and don't remove. Yes, that's a less-than-perfect aesthetic solution, but for awhile I just used a beauty ring with my Nautilus and Naut Mini tanks. Currently, I'm using an Aspire BVC clearomizer, whose eGo connection allows a flush mount on the adapter and fits the small scale of the iStick nicely. I imagine the new Aspire K-1 glassomizer would also be a good match. For the moment, my Nautilus tanks and Kayfuns have been reassigned to other PVs---VAMOs and Kicked Mechanicals.

    510 connectors made of cheaper, soft materials, with badly machined threads, non-spring-loaded pins, or faulty grommet insulators are all too common among inexpensive PVs, and even some APVs that are quite pricey. Conversely, PVs with high-quality connectors don't get enough praise for that critical part, since we tend to not notice whatever works as it should. Instead, it's only what doesn't work or eventually fails that commands our attention.

    Unfortunately, this first version and initial production runs of the iStick put it into the former group rather than the latter. The implementation of the 510 connector (integrating it into a single-piece top cap) was probably chosen by eLeaf's design team to keep the iStick's height and manufacturing costs to a minimum, which allowed a less expensive retail price.
     
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